Drivetrain Forge BOV/RCV Installed / No Vacuum - Odd Blow Off Sounds
#54
I think you misunderstood, and thought I was being impatient.
I've worked with several vendors on here to port their products to the R60. The most recent being M7, working with Peter to adapt their R56 charge pipe for the R60 (successfully, I might add).
I was offering to be the guinea pig for Clint on the DoS Intake, so I was going to touch base with him regarding that.
Hope that makes it clearer!
I've worked with several vendors on here to port their products to the R60. The most recent being M7, working with Peter to adapt their R56 charge pipe for the R60 (successfully, I might add).
I was offering to be the guinea pig for Clint on the DoS Intake, so I was going to touch base with him regarding that.
Hope that makes it clearer!
Last edited by Theta; 10-26-2011 at 05:00 PM.
#55
#58
Ok, I did a lame thing. Installed the Forge BOV kit last week. Test drove a couple miles, no CEL. Next day drove about 10 miles and then got on interstate. CEL came on for about 3-4min in amber so I continued to distination (about 5 miles). When I pulled off interstate CEL went off and never has come back on. Then after looking and reading these threads I discovered I had the two vacuum lines backwards. I just fixed them. Did I screw anything up running a couple of days with it hooked up wrong. I didn't drive the car hard during these couple of days.
#59
Just sounds like it wasn't opening the valve since the lines were reversed.
According to what was said earlier in this thread, you can't do much harm to the turbo so long as you're not pushing it too hard. You'll get flutter as the charged air is pushing back against it, but since it was only for a short time I wouldn't be too worried - especially since the CEL went away after stopping.
I'm glad this thread did some good for somebody finally. It's a silly error, but I'm sure we've all stared at the lines for a few moments wondering if we had them reversed.
According to what was said earlier in this thread, you can't do much harm to the turbo so long as you're not pushing it too hard. You'll get flutter as the charged air is pushing back against it, but since it was only for a short time I wouldn't be too worried - especially since the CEL went away after stopping.
I'm glad this thread did some good for somebody finally. It's a silly error, but I'm sure we've all stared at the lines for a few moments wondering if we had them reversed.
#60
#61
#62
This part replaces the factory re-circulation valve, and comes in two flavors - a VTA and a RCV. You'll be able to find a lot more info on one of those other threads as to whether or not its something you want to invest in.
#63
It doesn't give you more hp but it gets you to speed faster.
BOV are used for turbos and not superchargers since superchargers are electrically supplied with power.
Turbos work off exhaust.
A forge bov will give you a little louder wishhhhhh sound as well.
I put one on my 07 but keep getting cel codes (car didn't seem to like it) so I removed it and put stock one back on. No cel's now. Lots of folks have them without problems.
#65
I'm glad I found this thread.
I was researching for the cause of an issue I have been recently having with my JCW R58. I just recently re-installed some parts I had on my 08' Clubman S onto my R58. Those were the NM Hot-Side Boost Tube, DoS Intake, DoS Seafoam Fogger, BSH Dual Boost Tap, BSH Oil CC, and the Forge BOV/RCV. Everything was fine for a week until I got the "Engine Malfuction - Engine running at reduced output." message in the car. Having never had that error I researched it here on NAM and the next day brought it into the MINI dealer. They saw I was under a TSB for the Coolant Temp Sensor, so they replaced that saying that was most likely the source of the error; which in their defense was also mentioned here on NAM as a possible source that can throw the error.
I drove away without any problems. Until the next day. Leaving work, pulling out from a stop sign under very low acceleration, it happened to me again. Then almost immediately it cleared itself and I had full power. No issue the next day but then yesterday I drove around town running errands (80 miles or so) and it happened about 4 different times, each time clearing itself after some feathering of the throttle.
When it happens, it seems like the turbo is cut-off, so I started to research today the issue. Seeing as how I have a CAI, Oil CC, and the BoV that all "touch" the turbo, I started there.
Long story short (too late) I read this thread an it made me think. All this time I had the Forge BoV on the Clubman, I ALWAYS had the flutter. In the week it's been on my R58 it has the flutter as well. So I dug into the car and looked at the electrical connections. I knew the connection never "clicked" in when I reinstalled it, but it never occurred to me to shave the plastic. Sure enough, the top "rails" were shaved (originally installed by Way at MITM), but the top nub for the clip (which doesnt exist on that side) hadn't been shaved off. I clipped that off and trimmed some of the other pieces and reconnected it. It definitely seated in further than before but I still didn't get a "click", although I do see the clip over the "nub" and it's more secure than it was.
I also opened up the back of the BoV by unscrewing it and checked the spring. Everything looked okay, but I really don't know what I am looking at to tell a difference to be honest. I put everything back together and took it for a drive.
I now only get the flutter under light throttle or the first one or two blow-off of the drive. Now I hear the solid "WHISSSSSH" sound. It's sad to think I may have never had it connected properly on my Clubman.
Now I am not saying that was the issue with the engine malfunction error I was getting. Maybe it was due to no pressure release in the turbo? I don't know. Time will tell I guess.
-Z
I was researching for the cause of an issue I have been recently having with my JCW R58. I just recently re-installed some parts I had on my 08' Clubman S onto my R58. Those were the NM Hot-Side Boost Tube, DoS Intake, DoS Seafoam Fogger, BSH Dual Boost Tap, BSH Oil CC, and the Forge BOV/RCV. Everything was fine for a week until I got the "Engine Malfuction - Engine running at reduced output." message in the car. Having never had that error I researched it here on NAM and the next day brought it into the MINI dealer. They saw I was under a TSB for the Coolant Temp Sensor, so they replaced that saying that was most likely the source of the error; which in their defense was also mentioned here on NAM as a possible source that can throw the error.
I drove away without any problems. Until the next day. Leaving work, pulling out from a stop sign under very low acceleration, it happened to me again. Then almost immediately it cleared itself and I had full power. No issue the next day but then yesterday I drove around town running errands (80 miles or so) and it happened about 4 different times, each time clearing itself after some feathering of the throttle.
When it happens, it seems like the turbo is cut-off, so I started to research today the issue. Seeing as how I have a CAI, Oil CC, and the BoV that all "touch" the turbo, I started there.
Long story short (too late) I read this thread an it made me think. All this time I had the Forge BoV on the Clubman, I ALWAYS had the flutter. In the week it's been on my R58 it has the flutter as well. So I dug into the car and looked at the electrical connections. I knew the connection never "clicked" in when I reinstalled it, but it never occurred to me to shave the plastic. Sure enough, the top "rails" were shaved (originally installed by Way at MITM), but the top nub for the clip (which doesnt exist on that side) hadn't been shaved off. I clipped that off and trimmed some of the other pieces and reconnected it. It definitely seated in further than before but I still didn't get a "click", although I do see the clip over the "nub" and it's more secure than it was.
I also opened up the back of the BoV by unscrewing it and checked the spring. Everything looked okay, but I really don't know what I am looking at to tell a difference to be honest. I put everything back together and took it for a drive.
I now only get the flutter under light throttle or the first one or two blow-off of the drive. Now I hear the solid "WHISSSSSH" sound. It's sad to think I may have never had it connected properly on my Clubman.
Now I am not saying that was the issue with the engine malfunction error I was getting. Maybe it was due to no pressure release in the turbo? I don't know. Time will tell I guess.
-Z
#66
Hello everyone
I had my forge rcv n18 Installed yesterday ( the one with the T pastic part)
I followed exactly the install guide that came with it plus I had my electric pastic plug shaved
To fit correctly which is not mentioned in the install guide ( thank you forge )
So my boost pressure is wrong that's what the guy that install it is telling me
Plus I have a check engine light only when I start the car every morning only means when engine is cold
We used a scan machine and it says that my coolant sensor temp is not working properly
My question is did I miss something in the install?
What do you guys mean that the vacuum lines are set backward
???
Than you for your help
I had my forge rcv n18 Installed yesterday ( the one with the T pastic part)
I followed exactly the install guide that came with it plus I had my electric pastic plug shaved
To fit correctly which is not mentioned in the install guide ( thank you forge )
So my boost pressure is wrong that's what the guy that install it is telling me
Plus I have a check engine light only when I start the car every morning only means when engine is cold
We used a scan machine and it says that my coolant sensor temp is not working properly
My question is did I miss something in the install?
What do you guys mean that the vacuum lines are set backward
???
Than you for your help
#67
Hi i am having the same problem you use to had, i have the forge recirculating valve kit for N18 and all i hear is a fluttering noise i have it install it with the a alta boost tap but not direct i use the T because i have the boost gauge install it, i dont know if is by the spring i am using that it came with the blue one.what you think it can be ???
#68
Hi i am having the same problem you use to had, i have the forge recirculating valve kit for N18 and all i hear is a fluttering noise i have it install it with the a alta boost tap but not direct i use the T because i have the boost gauge install it, i dont know if is by the spring i am using that it came with the blue one.what you think it can be ???
#69
Stemming from our other thread, I'd say that some users using the MAP boost tap aren't getting the proper vacuum pressure to move the piston back and forth.
Hence, the flutter they hear is compressor stall (like the YouTube video I posted a while back). Just a guess, though.
Hence, the flutter they hear is compressor stall (like the YouTube video I posted a while back). Just a guess, though.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
squawSkiBum
MINI Parts for Sale
15
10-02-2015 09:21 AM