Well, this is disturbing... First, this is on an R60, but I think for engine-related issues like this, we can agree they're essentially R56s.

With that being said, I'm a bit worried about a few issues now that I have installed my Forge BOV/RCV (non atmospheric recirculating valve) unit. It's installed correctly (went back in to make sure) and the hoses are hooked up correctly according to their manual.

Here are the issues I'm having:

1) I have very little vacuum at idle - as in, almost non-existent. My gauge shows less than 1-2 Hg and just rattles at idle. I can post a video if need be.

2) I have a fluttering blow-off sound now, instead of a normal whoosh that I had with the stocker. The fluttering sounds almost like surging, but only at blow-off. I don't experience any fluttering on boost. It's a much different sound than the stock unit.

I looked at many threads on boost/vacuum, watched YouTube videos showing vacuum pressures at idle, etc. I should have vacuum to the tune of around 15 Hg, shouldn't I? I don't know what I'm doing wrong (if anything), but can anyone shed some light on this?

Just now, I connected a brand new 3/16" line to the MAP outlet adapter and held it in my hand, covering the tube with my thumb. I felt little to no vacuum (barely anything). After, I sprayed some soapy water around the MAP, and didn't see any leaks. That's the closest I can test in the system, bypassing the solenoid connections, etc.

Any help would be appreciated - thanks in advance!

 

The springs are for different pressures as well. Since it is not an electronic solenoid now and more of a spring/vs vacuum/pressure unit you may have the high boost spring installed.


The fluttering you hear may be compressor stall kind of like a "whoosh whosh whosh whosh whoshhh"?

If thats the sound then you are not getting any actuation. I dont have the forge but i believe you have to connect the electronic solenoid part as well since it is not like a mechanical unit.

 

I have the stock spring installed, and they sent me a yellow spring, as well. I think that's for the JCWs, so I left it alone.

I'll try to get a video of the sound it's making. I'm just worried it's surge, but it's only on load blow-off, and just sounds like a 'duck flutter'.

 

Surge wont happen and under very infrequent circumstances(many people get the terminology mixed up and hear horror stories, kinda like back fire and after fire) it is stall at the worst, i have a high tensile spring in mine so it stalls(flutters) unless im under high boost where it bypasses air.


Did you hook up the electrical portion of the bpv?

 

Do you get this flutter every time it blows off? Check the female plug they provided and make sure it's locked into the male OEM plug that normally connects to the stock BPV. If it just pulls out without any resistance (meaning it never clicked in to begin with), maybe you have the same problem I did.

My provided plug had a bunch of extra plastic which prevented it from connecting with the OE plug it was supposed to attach to. The extra plastic looked like it was supposed to be there, but it wasn't. It essentially wasn't plugged in at all, which resulted in the solonoid not receiving any power, which meant the BPV didn't know when to blow off, which in turn was the cause of the fluttering/compressor surge. In the end, I had to trim off that side. Once I did that, when I went to attach it that time it clicked in and it's been fine ever since.

On the question regarding which spring to use, you shouldn't need the yellow spring unless you're tuned. The green should be used for boost levels between 5 - 15 psi. The yellow should be used for boost levels between 15 - 23 psi.

I've attached a photo of the plug I'm talking about. I circled in red the side you need to trim, and make sure you trim the bit of plastic that's been circled in green as well. You can tell that in that photo I didn't trim it completely, because you don't really have to. It's almost like they used the wrong plug or something . I sent it in to Forge for them to take a look, and they replace the plug with the exact same type I had before. Therefore, I'm assuming I'm not the only one who could have this issue. Hopefully this solves your problem.

 

Judging by this statement seems like the solenoid is not being actuated. Lets see what happens when you try the above

 

Yep, electrical is hooked up. I think you're right, and I'm overreacting. I just hate hearing anything but a loud 'pssssh' and knowing it all blew off.

Maverick - thanks for that. I actually cut with a razor and a dremel tool that extra plastic. There were two plastic rails and a nub that needed to be taken off for it to seat correctly.

The connection did click, and it's solid now. I'm just using the green spring until I'm tuned up.

Appreciate the post, and the time you took to show me the plug. I, too, looked at it for a few minutes wondering why they used the 'wrong' plug!

 

Huh. It's weird that you're getting a flutter then. After trimming that plug, I get a whoosh almost every time now. The only occasional time I don't is for the very first blow off after turning on the car. After that, it's fine. Sorry I couldn't help.

 

No, no - you certainly helped! It's nice to know I wasn't crazy for shaving that plug!

And hell, I'm going to go out right now and make sure it's seated - you never know if a pin is loose or something!

 

Make sure the orientation of the vacuum lines between the solenoid and valve are proper.

 

Good call. I'm going to make a quick diagram to show how I have it 'plumbed' with those 2 lines.

 

This. I must have checked and rechecked it 50 times during installation, and on the 51st I realized I might have had it backwards . I must have been cross-eyed that day or something.

 

http://forgemotorsport.com/media/FM207V(3).pdf



Theres a pic here, seems to look confusing

 

Yep those are the instructions. I'm glad I'm not the only one who found them confusing.

From what I remember (and was able to gather from the instructions you linked), the slanted nipple on the BPV should be connected to the horizontal straight nipple on the solenoid that's closest to where the provided plug attaches to. On the other side of the solenoid there's another horizontal straight nipple that attaches to the tap on the inlet manifold. The vertical nipple on the solenoid should attach to the remaining nipple on the bpv.

I can't physically go out and check at the moment, but I'm pretty sure that's correct. Hopefully all you'll have to do is switch the tubes up and you'll be good.

 

Yep, that's what I recall, as well.

The BPV has two nipples: one goes at an angle closest to the turbo. The other is farther away, and straight.

The angled nipple feeds to the rear horizontal nipple on the solenoid near the electrical plug-in. The straight barb on the BPV goes to the underside vertical nipple on the solenoid. Finally, the MAP hose goes to the remaining horizontal nipple on the solenoid opposite of the horizontal nipple connected to the slanted BPV nipple.

Holy hell, that's interesting to type out. I'm going outside to do this right after I finish uploading the videos for the other thread Big's helping me with.

 

I'll have to admit I had to wear my "I'm An Adult" cap as well

 

Lol just read that out to a co-worker and we LOL'd hahaha

 

Okay... time for "fun with pictures":

 

If you werent getting a vacuum reading before the valve wasnt getting vacuum , may be all good now, if not we connect the hoses one by one ensureing the proper routing. Sounds dumb but you might just have to re route them to ensure they are right.

 

Showing the shaved down plastic on the top (longer) side of the Forge plug:

 

Also in the pic the vacuum pump line is not connected.

 

Yep. That's kind of what I was thinking as well. Hopefully that'll be the end of it.

 

Completely agree. After what happened with the vac pressures, god knows what it could be. I'm about to run new lines.

 

Oh, now you're just nitpicking...

I have the intake tube off, as well.

 

Solid Elec. Connection despite Forge's connector.