Drivetrain BFP MCS True Cold Air Intake pictures!!!
#26
Andy,
I read that article, and as I understand it, the pressure test is a direct comparison to stock vs. with intake, and the lower the negative pressure, the more free flowing the intake? Question: Does this need to be done on the same car, same day, like a proper Dyno should be done? Or does every MINI-S have pretty much the same pressure figures? Also, what does this test accomplish that a dyno doesn't prove by implication (i.e. less restrictive intakes = more HP, therefore more HP with only an intake mod = less restriction)?
dgszweda1, I honestly don't know of any filters that flow well enough to fit in the small space in between pt. A and pt. D. I also don't think that the diameter of A is large enough to supply sufficient airflow to MCS's which have pulleys, injectors, etc. above and beyond stock. Also, I'll admit; part of this intake system design is to be the best looking intake on the market for the MCS. We could have made the box top out of ABS plastic just the same as carbon fiber, but the difference in pricing was only $20 or so.
We have what we hope to be the best performing, and best looking MCS intake on the market. We want to satisfy both pure performance enthusiasts and people who like the aesthetic appeal of a sharp engine bay.
Regards,
-Dan
I read that article, and as I understand it, the pressure test is a direct comparison to stock vs. with intake, and the lower the negative pressure, the more free flowing the intake? Question: Does this need to be done on the same car, same day, like a proper Dyno should be done? Or does every MINI-S have pretty much the same pressure figures? Also, what does this test accomplish that a dyno doesn't prove by implication (i.e. less restrictive intakes = more HP, therefore more HP with only an intake mod = less restriction)?
dgszweda1, I honestly don't know of any filters that flow well enough to fit in the small space in between pt. A and pt. D. I also don't think that the diameter of A is large enough to supply sufficient airflow to MCS's which have pulleys, injectors, etc. above and beyond stock. Also, I'll admit; part of this intake system design is to be the best looking intake on the market for the MCS. We could have made the box top out of ABS plastic just the same as carbon fiber, but the difference in pricing was only $20 or so.
We have what we hope to be the best performing, and best looking MCS intake on the market. We want to satisfy both pure performance enthusiasts and people who like the aesthetic appeal of a sharp engine bay.
Regards,
-Dan
#27
>>I read that article, and as I understand it, the pressure test is a direct comparison to stock vs. with intake, and the lower the negative pressure, the more free flowing the intake?
Doesn't it mean the higher the pressure in a place like where those vent scoops go, the more air that the intake will be receiving? So like if you test it and the pressure is much higher at say 70mph compared to the vent without the scoop at 70mph, then isn't it like a ram-air effect happening?
Doesn't it mean the higher the pressure in a place like where those vent scoops go, the more air that the intake will be receiving? So like if you test it and the pressure is much higher at say 70mph compared to the vent without the scoop at 70mph, then isn't it like a ram-air effect happening?
#28
>>>>I read that article, and as I understand it, the pressure test is a direct comparison to stock vs. with intake, and the lower the negative pressure, the more free flowing the intake?
>>
>>Doesn't it mean the higher the pressure in a place like where those vent scoops go, the more air that the intake will be receiving? So like if you test it and the pressure is much higher at say 70mph compared to the vent without the scoop at 70mph, then isn't it like a ram-air effect happening?
Whoops, I guess I should have re-read Andy's post... That's exactly (I think) what he was saying. The system was designed so that the scoops would force feed the system with air, a ram-air effect. Not all 3 versions of the intake will come with the scoops, which is why in theory, the greater the stage, the more HP the intake frees up. We will test this with a dyno, but it sounds like Andy's suggestion of pressure testing would also give us a good idea of the impact of the scoops on performance.
-Dan
>>
>>Doesn't it mean the higher the pressure in a place like where those vent scoops go, the more air that the intake will be receiving? So like if you test it and the pressure is much higher at say 70mph compared to the vent without the scoop at 70mph, then isn't it like a ram-air effect happening?
Whoops, I guess I should have re-read Andy's post... That's exactly (I think) what he was saying. The system was designed so that the scoops would force feed the system with air, a ram-air effect. Not all 3 versions of the intake will come with the scoops, which is why in theory, the greater the stage, the more HP the intake frees up. We will test this with a dyno, but it sounds like Andy's suggestion of pressure testing would also give us a good idea of the impact of the scoops on performance.
-Dan
#29
IMHO, it is a good idea to do pressure testing at speed on the road since dynos have difficulty reproducing the actual airflow seen while the car is moving. Some things, like the amount of pressure in those scoops, could only be measured at speed. Air often does counter-intuitive things, as seen in the rear-facing cowl induction scoops in '60's Chevy models.
MINI has conveniently installed a second MAP sensor that measures pressure between the throttle body and the supercharger inlet. Comparing full throttle runs in the same car shows very nicely the effects of intake and throttle body mods:
Dyno testing is certainly important, but mods that depend on airflow to see improvement (like intakes, intercoolers, hood scoops, etc.) are often best tested while the vehicle is moving.
MINI has conveniently installed a second MAP sensor that measures pressure between the throttle body and the supercharger inlet. Comparing full throttle runs in the same car shows very nicely the effects of intake and throttle body mods:
Dyno testing is certainly important, but mods that depend on airflow to see improvement (like intakes, intercoolers, hood scoops, etc.) are often best tested while the vehicle is moving.
#31
This intake looks really sweet, and i was or am looking into making my own, and i have a couple of questions for you guys. Why go through all of the trouble of making this awesoem looking custom intake and then slack off by leaving a gap between the airbox and the divider as you can see in some of you pictures:
Motor on!
Nick
Motor on!
Nick
#32
>>This intake looks really sweet, and i was or am looking into making my own, and i have a couple of questions for you guys. Why go through all of the trouble of making this awesoem looking custom intake and then slack off by leaving a gap between the airbox and the divider as you can see in some of you pictures:
>>
>>I know that this can be fixed very easily as i've done a similar fix with my stock intake mod, but i was wondering if you are going to be including a fix for this little situation, or if you will be leaving up to the customer to fix it.
>>
>>Either way i have to give you props for making suck a big effort to make a better performing product! keep up the good work!
>>
>>Motor on!
>>Nick
Nick,
The airbox is directly connected to the direct stream of outside air through the "Y" pipe. Please read my answer earlier in the thread to the same question about the gap.
>>
>>I know that this can be fixed very easily as i've done a similar fix with my stock intake mod, but i was wondering if you are going to be including a fix for this little situation, or if you will be leaving up to the customer to fix it.
>>
>>Either way i have to give you props for making suck a big effort to make a better performing product! keep up the good work!
>>
>>Motor on!
>>Nick
Nick,
The airbox is directly connected to the direct stream of outside air through the "Y" pipe. Please read my answer earlier in the thread to the same question about the gap.
#34
BFP,
The new products look fantastic! I really like the CF Scoops at the windshield base. Do you know yet how much you will sell those for separately, and a time-line for that? I currently have the Ocari scoops, and while they have a smoother and lower profile, I don't think they will "catch" as much air as yours.
Thanks again!
Ben
The new products look fantastic! I really like the CF Scoops at the windshield base. Do you know yet how much you will sell those for separately, and a time-line for that? I currently have the Ocari scoops, and while they have a smoother and lower profile, I don't think they will "catch" as much air as yours.
Thanks again!
Ben
#35
>>BFP,
>>
>>The new products look fantastic! I really like the CF Scoops at the windshield base. Do you know yet how much you will sell those for separately, and a time-line for that? I currently have the Ocari scoops, and while they have a smoother and lower profile, I don't think they will "catch" as much air as yours.
>>
>>Thanks again!
>>Ben
The windshield hood scoops will probably come in 3 variations:
-ABS plastic (same material as stock grille, but made into a connecting scoop) with a "y" tube connected
-Carbon Fiber with "y" tube connected
-No scoop, but a "y" pipe insert to go with factory grille
We may offer the first 2 at a later date w/no Y pipe as a separate product, but no timeline or pricing have been established.
-Dan
>>
>>The new products look fantastic! I really like the CF Scoops at the windshield base. Do you know yet how much you will sell those for separately, and a time-line for that? I currently have the Ocari scoops, and while they have a smoother and lower profile, I don't think they will "catch" as much air as yours.
>>
>>Thanks again!
>>Ben
The windshield hood scoops will probably come in 3 variations:
-ABS plastic (same material as stock grille, but made into a connecting scoop) with a "y" tube connected
-Carbon Fiber with "y" tube connected
-No scoop, but a "y" pipe insert to go with factory grille
We may offer the first 2 at a later date w/no Y pipe as a separate product, but no timeline or pricing have been established.
-Dan
#36
#38
>>We could have made the box top out of ABS plastic just the same as carbon fiber, but the difference in pricing was only $20 or so.
First off i want to say that intake looks SHWEET! but i am interested in this comment! (the quote). I have been looking for an aftermarket cone-intake housed inside of the stock-looking box so i can retain that quasi-stock look under my hood. Unlike most, i am a no-frills looking kinda person and would like a drab, stock-looking under bonnet.
unfortunately no one makes a stock-looking kit, so what do you think of this: getting a cone filter, remove the stock panel filter, place cone in stock airbox, cut out back of stock airbox and seal it from engine bay towards back wall.... then get the alta intake's black tubing from engine to airbox and fit that in the stock tubing's place, leaving the stock airbox acting as the CAI around the aftermarket cone filter.
would this work? how come no one offers this option?
cheers
-ABT-
_________________
<<sig>>
First off i want to say that intake looks SHWEET! but i am interested in this comment! (the quote). I have been looking for an aftermarket cone-intake housed inside of the stock-looking box so i can retain that quasi-stock look under my hood. Unlike most, i am a no-frills looking kinda person and would like a drab, stock-looking under bonnet.
unfortunately no one makes a stock-looking kit, so what do you think of this: getting a cone filter, remove the stock panel filter, place cone in stock airbox, cut out back of stock airbox and seal it from engine bay towards back wall.... then get the alta intake's black tubing from engine to airbox and fit that in the stock tubing's place, leaving the stock airbox acting as the CAI around the aftermarket cone filter.
would this work? how come no one offers this option?
cheers
-ABT-
_________________
<<sig>>
#39
#41
>>>>We could have made the box top out of ABS plastic just the same as carbon fiber, but the difference in pricing was only $20 or so.
>>
>>First off i want to say that intake looks SHWEET! but i am interested in this comment! (the quote). I have been looking for an aftermarket cone-intake housed inside of the stock-looking box so i can retain that quasi-stock look under my hood. Unlike most, i am a no-frills looking kinda person and would like a drab, stock-looking under bonnet.
>>
>>unfortunately no one makes a stock-looking kit, so what do you think of this: getting a cone filter, remove the stock panel filter, place cone in stock airbox, cut out back of stock airbox and seal it from engine bay towards back wall.... then get the alta intake's black tubing from engine to airbox and fit that in the stock tubing's place, leaving the stock airbox acting as the CAI around the aftermarket cone filter.
>>
>>would this work? how come no one offers this option?
>>
>>cheers
>>-ABT-
>>
-I have often wondered the same thing. The stock airbox is far better at insulation than a metal shield. If a K&N filter fits in the aftermarket units..why cant it fit in the stock box? Never understood why none of the aftermarket filter have been sealed on the top (why try to seal against the hood when you could just make a top for it?) Seems that most of the increased airflow would be directly from the filter swap..since most dont change/alter the intake path (2 exceptions now) I agree that the sleeper look is underated.
>>
>>First off i want to say that intake looks SHWEET! but i am interested in this comment! (the quote). I have been looking for an aftermarket cone-intake housed inside of the stock-looking box so i can retain that quasi-stock look under my hood. Unlike most, i am a no-frills looking kinda person and would like a drab, stock-looking under bonnet.
>>
>>unfortunately no one makes a stock-looking kit, so what do you think of this: getting a cone filter, remove the stock panel filter, place cone in stock airbox, cut out back of stock airbox and seal it from engine bay towards back wall.... then get the alta intake's black tubing from engine to airbox and fit that in the stock tubing's place, leaving the stock airbox acting as the CAI around the aftermarket cone filter.
>>
>>would this work? how come no one offers this option?
>>
>>cheers
>>-ABT-
>>
-I have often wondered the same thing. The stock airbox is far better at insulation than a metal shield. If a K&N filter fits in the aftermarket units..why cant it fit in the stock box? Never understood why none of the aftermarket filter have been sealed on the top (why try to seal against the hood when you could just make a top for it?) Seems that most of the increased airflow would be directly from the filter swap..since most dont change/alter the intake path (2 exceptions now) I agree that the sleeper look is underated.
#43
chamuco wrote:
I tested the pressure drop across the stock air filter. At WOT, approaching redline, the maximum pressure drop is ~4 in. h2o. So, the pressure drop across the air filter is a non-whopping 0.14 psi.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...amp;topic=8631
-I have often wondered the same thing. The stock airbox is far better at insulation than a metal shield. If a K&N filter fits in the aftermarket units..why cant it fit in the stock box? Never understood why none of the aftermarket filter have been sealed on the top (why try to seal against the hood when you could just make a top for it?) Seems that most of the increased airflow would be directly from the filter swap..since most dont change/alter the intake path (2 exceptions now) I agree that the sleeper look is underated.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...amp;topic=8631
#44
>>chamuco wrote:
>>
>>
>>I tested the pressure drop across the stock air filter. At WOT, approaching redline, the maximum pressure drop is ~4 in. h2o. So, the pressure drop across the air filter is a non-whopping 0.14 psi.
>>
>>https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...amp;topic=8631
yes but you are talking if you keep the "snorkel" and stock plumbing only... i would leave that there for appearance, but mainly use what the aftermarket intakes use - the back wall.... i was saying cut out ONLY the back of the stock airbox (leaving top, sides, and front, so it LOOKS OEM at first glance), then hide a cone filter element inside the box. leave all the stock plumbing there but mainly draw from the back like the alta. would this work? if temperature drops in "C" on your diagram were that bad, just substitute C with the black hose from Alta.
what do you think andy?
>>
-I have often wondered the same thing. The stock airbox is far better at insulation than a metal shield. If a K&N filter fits in the aftermarket units..why cant it fit in the stock box? Never understood why none of the aftermarket filter have been sealed on the top (why try to seal against the hood when you could just make a top for it?) Seems that most of the increased airflow would be directly from the filter swap..since most dont change/alter the intake path (2 exceptions now) I agree that the sleeper look is underated.
>>I tested the pressure drop across the stock air filter. At WOT, approaching redline, the maximum pressure drop is ~4 in. h2o. So, the pressure drop across the air filter is a non-whopping 0.14 psi.
>>
>>https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...amp;topic=8631
yes but you are talking if you keep the "snorkel" and stock plumbing only... i would leave that there for appearance, but mainly use what the aftermarket intakes use - the back wall.... i was saying cut out ONLY the back of the stock airbox (leaving top, sides, and front, so it LOOKS OEM at first glance), then hide a cone filter element inside the box. leave all the stock plumbing there but mainly draw from the back like the alta. would this work? if temperature drops in "C" on your diagram were that bad, just substitute C with the black hose from Alta.
what do you think andy?
#45
Hi Andy,
I was referring to to a cone filter not the stock panel. The air box makes little difference..but the filter itself..well that is another story. So a cone filter, in the stock air box, with the back partition drilled out..should result in similar gains as most aftermarket filter set ups. (sorry to hijack)
Get over the Alta hose..it wont matter without a bigger throttle body..but it does look pretty.
and BTW the CF filter and ceramic pipes look fantastic. Should turn out to be a hot seller.
I was referring to to a cone filter not the stock panel. The air box makes little difference..but the filter itself..well that is another story. So a cone filter, in the stock air box, with the back partition drilled out..should result in similar gains as most aftermarket filter set ups. (sorry to hijack)
Get over the Alta hose..it wont matter without a bigger throttle body..but it does look pretty.
and BTW the CF filter and ceramic pipes look fantastic. Should turn out to be a hot seller.
#46
>>Hi Andy,
>>
>>I was referring to to a cone filter not the stock panel. The air box makes little difference..but the filter itself..well that is another story. So a cone filter, in the stock air box, with the back partition drilled out..should result in similar gains as most aftermarket filter set ups. (sorry to hijack)
>>
>>Get over the Alta hose..it wont matter without a bigger throttle body..but it does look pretty.
>>
>>and BTW the CF filter and ceramic pipes look fantastic. Should turn out to be a hot seller.
Andy tested the pressure drop to be negligable over the stock filer (.14PSI) Meaning that there is little or no flow lacross the stock filter.
Drilling out the back partitio wont do anything if you leave the stock airbox intact because its sealed from that area with the exception of a small hole in the bottom. Im not even sure the drilling out the back of the stock box would do anything appreciable. Thats not an ideal place to grab air on this car.
Im a believer in the replacement intake hose between the TB and the filter, whether it be ALTA or K&N or this BFP setup, its the way to go.
--
Cheese
>>
>>I was referring to to a cone filter not the stock panel. The air box makes little difference..but the filter itself..well that is another story. So a cone filter, in the stock air box, with the back partition drilled out..should result in similar gains as most aftermarket filter set ups. (sorry to hijack)
>>
>>Get over the Alta hose..it wont matter without a bigger throttle body..but it does look pretty.
>>
>>and BTW the CF filter and ceramic pipes look fantastic. Should turn out to be a hot seller.
Andy tested the pressure drop to be negligable over the stock filer (.14PSI) Meaning that there is little or no flow lacross the stock filter.
Drilling out the back partitio wont do anything if you leave the stock airbox intact because its sealed from that area with the exception of a small hole in the bottom. Im not even sure the drilling out the back of the stock box would do anything appreciable. Thats not an ideal place to grab air on this car.
Im a believer in the replacement intake hose between the TB and the filter, whether it be ALTA or K&N or this BFP setup, its the way to go.
--
Cheese
#47
BFP,
A well thought-out design, glad to see it hit the market in not to distant future.
Just a question on the visual appearance of the two hood (bonnet) scoops in your opening pics. It appears there is a taper from "in (large) to out (small)" for the width of the air opening. If so, is there an engineering, fabrication or aesthetic appeal driving this uniqueness?
Thanks,
SMKKVK
A well thought-out design, glad to see it hit the market in not to distant future.
Just a question on the visual appearance of the two hood (bonnet) scoops in your opening pics. It appears there is a taper from "in (large) to out (small)" for the width of the air opening. If so, is there an engineering, fabrication or aesthetic appeal driving this uniqueness?
Thanks,
SMKKVK
#48
>>
>>Andy tested the pressure drop to be negligable over the stock filer (.14PSI) Meaning that there is little or no flow lacross the stock filter.
>> Drilling out the back partitio wont do anything if you leave the stock airbox intact because its sealed from that area with the exception of a small hole in the bottom. Im not even sure the drilling out the back of the stock box would do anything appreciable. Thats not an ideal place to grab air on this car.
>> Im a believer in the replacement intake hose between the TB and the filter, whether it be ALTA or K&N or this BFP setup, its the way to go.
>>
>>--
>>Cheese
>>
>>
understood, but then that would make the BMP and MiniMania intakes useless.... they are basically sealed on five sides (including the hood), leaving only an opening in the back (should you choose to open that up)..... the only thing that separates what i am asking from the aftermarket fancy intakes is a couple of hundred bucks! instead of using the heatshield, use the stock airbox. am i describing this right? do you understand what i'm trying to say? i don't know if i am.... but i mean, if you have the same source of air as the aftermarket intakes, and the same cone filter element, what is the difference really?
chamuco - whether the pipe diameter between the throttle body and the airbox makes a difference or not i don't know - thats why i was saying use the alta tube if it does....
-ABT-
#49
This intake looks really good. Very nice use of carbon fiber.
I do have one observation, however. Every cowl-induction system I've seen (and they have been around since the 60's) has the intake facing the windshield, not the front of the car. Apparently, there is little to no "ram effect" at that part of the hood, but there is a air-pressure build-up at the base of the windshield, behind the proposed scoops.
_________________
I'm not a real BMW mechanic, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. :smile:
I do have one observation, however. Every cowl-induction system I've seen (and they have been around since the 60's) has the intake facing the windshield, not the front of the car. Apparently, there is little to no "ram effect" at that part of the hood, but there is a air-pressure build-up at the base of the windshield, behind the proposed scoops.
_________________
I'm not a real BMW mechanic, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. :smile:
#50
>>This intake looks really good. Very nice use of carbon fiber.
>>
>>I do have one observation, however. Every cowl-induction system I've seen (and they have been around since the 60's) has the intake facing the windshield, not the front of the car.
Second and Third Generation VW VR6 vehicles had the induction facing forward, as did similar-era Honda models.
>>
>>I do have one observation, however. Every cowl-induction system I've seen (and they have been around since the 60's) has the intake facing the windshield, not the front of the car.
Second and Third Generation VW VR6 vehicles had the induction facing forward, as did similar-era Honda models.