Thanks Jeff. I received one that was already fully assembled so all I had to do was install it.

I do think the issue is with leaking at the BSH tap or somewhere around there. I'm going to move the tap to above the MAP sensor, which is what I assume everyone else has done so far.

I do have an AccessPORT. I'm running a 92+ octane stage 3 map (non linear) with a 2.5" catless turbo back exhaust, FMIC and cold air intake. Boost will definitely go above 15psi but I don't think it should be a problem with regard to the new DV, correct?

 

Alta Stage 3 Clubman with Alta DV on Nurburgring

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JE0P6...Hy6dS9VadFvdM=

 

UPDATE: I stopped using the BSH tap and switched to a tap mounted at the MAP sensor. Still no luck. It behaves exactly as before: 99% of the time zero boost, 1% of the time a short spurt of normal boost for a few seconds and then back to nothing again.

Jeff, what would you suggest at this point? Based on the symptoms I may have a faulty unit, unless there's something else I should try you can recommend.

 

This seems like a diverter valve converted to a reversed waste gate.. stays open until the pressure becomes positive to the back of the DV, which pushes against the diaphram/spring to close against the turbo so boost can build. Once pressure is released/vacuum is present, the spring pushes the diaphram open again, releasing boost pressure. Pretty simple mechanical design. In many cases, mechanical>electrical.

The only reason it sounds that it wouldn't be building boost is the diaphram is not sealing either within the enclosure unit or against the turbo (not exactly sure how its set up as I haven't seen one in person). Or theres a leak at the boost source (MAP/PCV).

Its getting hot again now... so i'm seeing 20-21psi spikes... soon to hit boost cuts again... kinda looking forward to seeing if my boost cut solution is going to work... (kind of a simliar idea to this product... just not @ the DV)... =X

 

At this point I doubt it's leaking at both the PCV and MAP locations. I plan to take off the DV to check it and see if it holds boost afterward. If it still fails to hold boost after that I'm at a loss. Let's see what Jeff says.

I read about your boost cut thread on the other forum. Sounds interesting. Have you installed it yet?

 

Not yet, but if it works I'll post it... or keep it a secret.. muhwahah.

 

Post it. But patent it first.

 

First lets eliminate that the DV itself isn't assembled correct. Give me an hour or so, I will make a few diagrams to help ensure its correct. If you had to install the flange, then the diaphragm, then spring then cap, its possible that the diaphragm is messed up. We do this here now, to ensure there is no issue with this.

Also do you have an AccessPORT? A log of this might help me figure out a few things.

We have been kind of quiet about this part for a few reasons (one the resistor thing) and one of the secret benefits is the boost cut problem and part throttle boost cut problems. Its seems like there is a growing number OEM parts leaking. And when the OEM part leaks, it causes an issue with the LOAD the ECU sees. This messes with how the ECU controls boost and causes lots of issues.

You are correct in that if the DV isn't closing it would cause a leak then the ECU would freak out and wonder why its not hitting it load targets.

 

I believe he said that he has an AP and got the DV that was already assembled.


As for boost cuts, the DV won't be able to help with boost cuts... when a boost cut occurs its not the DV that acuates... as im sure you know.

There are growing number of leaking OEM parts because these cars are now in their 5th year since they came out... accumulating miles, so with wear and increased power, things are going to leak/break, as in any modded car.

 

Actually the DV will help with boost cuts. But lets define boost cuts for a moment.
Boost cuts are really a function of the ECU over loading or under loading. The ECU targets load (which does equal boost on some level), and if the actual load is under or over this amount, the ECU says "Something is wrong, I am going to close the throttle!". The over/under loading causes the ECU to target about 25% of the normal load making for almost no boost. With a leaking diverter valve causing a "low load" situation, the ECU over boosts. With a boost leak in the system, the ECU sees too much load, and causes an over load situation.

So with OEM CRV's leaking, not blowing off, being delayed in their blowing off(from sticking), ripped diaphragms, and then the mystery P28AA, P2C90 codes, all of these things can cause the ECU to go into temp limp mode making it feel like a boost cut.

We have about 5 customers that had DTCs revolving around those CRV codes. With trips to the dealer, uninstalling the AP, and then buying a new part didn't fix it, they were pretty frustrated. Doing nothing but installing our CRV fixed the problem. Gone were the "Boost cuts" and DTC's.

 

Yup, missed that one! My notifications missed that response, sorry.

The DV works way beyond 15psi, and the parts installed doesn't matter.

One more thing, was this the only part you installed at the same time?

So install Stage 1 for now, and see what you find. The boost curve should be about 17psi slowing dropping to 14 at 7000 RPM. Since you have an AccessPORT, do me a favor, reset the ECU, go drive your car and recreate the issue. Start in 3rd gear 2000RPM, floor it to 60MPH-ish. That will tell me a lot.

 

Here is a quick diagram. I would make sure that the diaphragm/piston are centered on the flange.You will need to remove the cap for this. Or remove the whole part and assemble it to the flange outside the car. Then reinstall it. And do not be too worried about the plastic. That is super strong glass filled nylon.



And one more to help showing it from the bottom.

 

If my DV was leaking, then I'd see my boost dropping off and not holding at WOT after it peaks, right? And if it was leaking then it'd always "overload"... which isn't the case. I can agree with you a boost leak would cause the ecu to raise load level to obtain target load, aka more boost, but its when the MAP sensor sees 22psi (sans atmospheric) that it cuts to 5 psi. ECU's target loads are not directly proportional to boost, otherwise we'd see the exact same amount of boost every time we go WOT. There are many other factors that play into reaching target load and what matrices need to compensate to result in the requested load. I experience boost cuts with varying loads, but always the same maximum boost.

In the end I believe you are saying that a leaking DV can cause boost cuts, which is true.

But saying that boost cuts are because of leaking DVs is not always true.

Hoping that makes sense...

 

Will do. Thanks for your support Jeff. I'll disassemble the DV first and hopefully something just needs re-seating. I'll send an update soon.

 

If your DV was leaking, you may not see a change in boost pressure depending on the amount of the leak. You have two things that can happen.
1. Boost leaking in general can be accounted by the ECU adjust WGDC. So you may not see a change in boost. This happens because your turbo has more capacity for airflow than what we are asking it to do.
2. The load readings can get messed with, and the ECU adjusts to the load, but your boost does actually change.

What I was trying to say is that the word "Boost Cut" is used by everyone, which isn't always correct. For your situation, you have given me enough info to determine that its an issue with actually going over the actual boost limit. But for other customers this isn't always the case.

I fully understand that load doesn't relate to boost. The idea behind using Load as a target is great as "In theory" it means the car runs the same HP all the time.

For your car, I would love to have you test out a new map. Send me an email, along with the full name of the map you are running, and if you had a datalog to go with it, great! Also you should update your AP and see how that effects it.

Back to sooper_cooper,
Great! Please let me know what you find out!

 

hey guys, just wanted to chime in after my first week with the valve. Everything is functioning just fine. Again far better then oem unit. Does everything quicker and better. No problems thus far.

 

Couple things before the weekend. Read your DTC's and see if there are any. I bet you have a DV code. Then secondly, check the resistor. If the small pins didn't get pushed into the female pins in the harness side, it would do the exact same thing you are describing. The small leads on the resistor should be folded over twice, then installed. That should be tight enough to ensure they are connected.

As a quick test, plug in your stock DV and see if you have boost again.

What is dumb, is the ECU doesn't throw a visible Check engine light when this happens.

 

Ahh, that's excellent info. Now I actually believe it's the resistor. I was having trouble getting it to seat securely and when bending the leads while installing it one of them broke off pretty close to the resistor body.

I bet it's losing contact intermittently. Is that an off-the-shelf resistor I can get a radio shack or some other such store? I have a bolt meter so I can get the specs off of it. Sine it doesn't throw a code I thought nothing of it and assumed it was making a connection.

I want to eliminate all possibilities. I'm sure it's something simple that I should be able to fix this weekend.

 

Does anyone know what this plug is for and where it goes? I found it when I was checking up on things and not sure if it became unplugged at that time or if I just happened to notice it then.

 

That looks a lot like the plug for the stock diverter valve. If not then it's most likely for the aux water pump, even though it looks like the harness for that is already running back to it.

 

This is close to the DV plug but that's further up. I've never seen this one before but seeing it unplugged like that has me worried.

 

I'll take a look for you after work if its not raining... will report back. But I have a feeling it may be answered before then. Do you know where the other plug of the two in that harness is going to? that'd help me identify which one to look for

 

After looking at a re-sized version of your pic I wanna say that's for the second of the two I had mentioned, the aux water pump.

What had looked to be running back to it, actually seems to be the O2 sensor harness. The only other part branching off that section should be the aux water pump plug.

 

Thanks Mike. So the next question, where do I plug it back in to?

 

It would plug into the pump if that is what it's for. You can see it in your pic. It's attached to the same mount the blue O2 sensor plug is mounted to.

Here is a link with some great shots of one. The site's protected so I couldn't just post the pics here.

http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/...0,0,0&format=0