Drivetrain BSH Oil Catch Can & PCV Delete
#1
BSH Oil Catch Can & PCV Delete
Hello fellow motorers...so many R56 owners with the N14 motor are familiar with the issues regarding the PCV hosing and oil recirculation through the tubro/intake manifold/intercooler. Fortunately....there is a fool proof way to end this problem for good and have your engine running much more efficient with cleaner smoother operation.
In this install I put in a BSH Oil Catch Can(link @ bottom)...excellent part extremely well made...which hooks into the air intake hose sensor on one end and on the other is the valve cover. Ideally it will suck all of the excess oil out of your turbo and intercooler which IS harmful to your engine. But what about the intake manifold? How do you get the oil out from there. Easiest solution I found was to remove the PCV hose completely! For those of you who are not familiar with the PCV hose it is this right here:
Basically the PCV is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system, which forces blowby gases back (and a lot of oil coming with it) in the intake system.
By eliminating this hose...your catch can will suck oil out of your turbo, intercooler, AND your intake manifold!
Here are pictures of my install...I used braided stainless steel JEGS -10AN hose instead of the BSH hose it looks way nicer! I hope you find my instructions helpful. Of course any questions you may have, just reply to this post and I will answer all your questions!
Heres how it starts...
Make sure that you have all the required hardware for your install..definitely do not want to go half way and realize you are missing something!!
You should have:
-1 BSH OCC
-1 22" JEGS -10AN Braided Aluminum hose
-1 26" JEGS -10AN Braided Aluminum hose
-2 5/16" Allen key screws with washers
-1 17mm PCV adapter
-1 21mm PCV Adapter
-4 Hose Couplings
-1 Drain Plug
First step is to unclip the bracket for the PCV hose that holds it onto the valve cover by squeezing both sides and lifting it out:
Second step is to take off the hose connecting the valve cover to the intake pipe so your engine looks like this:
To do this unplug all wiring that may be in the way or prevents you from removing this hose.
Next you want to remove the PCV hose from the sensor on the intake pipe. To do this simply cut the zip tie holding them together:
And you get:
Next prepare your catch can...Because I used braided lines My install requires ALOT more force to get the braided aluminum lines onto the catch can and onto the 2 PCV adapters but after it looks like so:
The left outlet is the hose that goes to the valve cover...this one is cut to 22", and the right outlet goes to the intake pipe which is cut to 26".
Now...those lengths are only because of my mounting location. If you chose a different location the length of the hoses may vary. At this time I drilled into the plastic firewall cover on the passenger side and made 2 holes (3 because I messed up )
And then mounted the OCC:
Next step is to slide the PCV adapter onto each end of the braided hoses. This part is tricky just because it is a VERY tight fit and requires some force and WD-40 (not too much) but once they are attached to each end of the hose you can plug them into the correct locations and plug everything back together! Like so:
And the final install should look something like this:
For the PCV delete I did not take pictures but found a GREAT write up on how to do this install:
http://www.etuners.gr/en/index.php?s=12&t=299
(There are people on the forums who can get you the PCV block off caps...ask around I got mine from @Sacred Disorder and I know other users who got their from a member named @czar)
Hope this was a help!!
OCC:
http://www.bshspeedshop.com/bshstore...Catch-Can.html
BSH Install Instructions:
http://www.bshspeedshop.com/bshstore...ons/n14cc1.pdf
In this install I put in a BSH Oil Catch Can(link @ bottom)...excellent part extremely well made...which hooks into the air intake hose sensor on one end and on the other is the valve cover. Ideally it will suck all of the excess oil out of your turbo and intercooler which IS harmful to your engine. But what about the intake manifold? How do you get the oil out from there. Easiest solution I found was to remove the PCV hose completely! For those of you who are not familiar with the PCV hose it is this right here:
Basically the PCV is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system, which forces blowby gases back (and a lot of oil coming with it) in the intake system.
By eliminating this hose...your catch can will suck oil out of your turbo, intercooler, AND your intake manifold!
Here are pictures of my install...I used braided stainless steel JEGS -10AN hose instead of the BSH hose it looks way nicer! I hope you find my instructions helpful. Of course any questions you may have, just reply to this post and I will answer all your questions!
Heres how it starts...
Make sure that you have all the required hardware for your install..definitely do not want to go half way and realize you are missing something!!
You should have:
-1 BSH OCC
-1 22" JEGS -10AN Braided Aluminum hose
-1 26" JEGS -10AN Braided Aluminum hose
-2 5/16" Allen key screws with washers
-1 17mm PCV adapter
-1 21mm PCV Adapter
-4 Hose Couplings
-1 Drain Plug
First step is to unclip the bracket for the PCV hose that holds it onto the valve cover by squeezing both sides and lifting it out:
Second step is to take off the hose connecting the valve cover to the intake pipe so your engine looks like this:
To do this unplug all wiring that may be in the way or prevents you from removing this hose.
Next you want to remove the PCV hose from the sensor on the intake pipe. To do this simply cut the zip tie holding them together:
And you get:
Next prepare your catch can...Because I used braided lines My install requires ALOT more force to get the braided aluminum lines onto the catch can and onto the 2 PCV adapters but after it looks like so:
The left outlet is the hose that goes to the valve cover...this one is cut to 22", and the right outlet goes to the intake pipe which is cut to 26".
Now...those lengths are only because of my mounting location. If you chose a different location the length of the hoses may vary. At this time I drilled into the plastic firewall cover on the passenger side and made 2 holes (3 because I messed up )
And then mounted the OCC:
Next step is to slide the PCV adapter onto each end of the braided hoses. This part is tricky just because it is a VERY tight fit and requires some force and WD-40 (not too much) but once they are attached to each end of the hose you can plug them into the correct locations and plug everything back together! Like so:
And the final install should look something like this:
For the PCV delete I did not take pictures but found a GREAT write up on how to do this install:
http://www.etuners.gr/en/index.php?s=12&t=299
(There are people on the forums who can get you the PCV block off caps...ask around I got mine from @Sacred Disorder and I know other users who got their from a member named @czar)
Hope this was a help!!
OCC:
http://www.bshspeedshop.com/bshstore...Catch-Can.html
BSH Install Instructions:
http://www.bshspeedshop.com/bshstore...ons/n14cc1.pdf
#3
#6
#7
The 17 & 21mm adapters come with the BSH OCC
Not sure but I would keep the PCV hose just incase you need a service. Luckly my dealership doesnt care about aftermarket parts. I have an uncatted exhaust and they still change my oil!
Not sure but I would keep the PCV hose just incase you need a service. Luckly my dealership doesnt care about aftermarket parts. I have an uncatted exhaust and they still change my oil!
Trending Topics
#10
As has been discussed on all aftermarket parts, they have to prove that the aftermarket part caused whatever stock part to fail(i.e. if you wheel bearing fails they can't blame it on the OCC but, if you have an aftermarket intake and you MAF goes out then they can blame it on your intake)
#12
#13
#14
#15
#17
Well they had questions, mostly about how much difference I might be noticing as the after-market changes got added from visit to visit.
#19
I've kept all my stock parts in case, but that never came up with our dealer, they did all the in warranty work without hesitation or questions.
Well they had questions, mostly about how much difference I might be noticing as the after-market changes got added from visit to visit.
Well they had questions, mostly about how much difference I might be noticing as the after-market changes got added from visit to visit.
#20
I used the BSH dual boost tap to block off the passenger side PCV hose, I have a boost/vacuum gage and get my signal from there.
My dealer has no problem with my set up either. But, it is altering the cars emission equipment and there is a federal law against that. Just be sure you can put everything back to stock, in case you have to take your car in for an emission test/inspection.
I don't
Dave
My dealer has no problem with my set up either. But, it is altering the cars emission equipment and there is a federal law against that. Just be sure you can put everything back to stock, in case you have to take your car in for an emission test/inspection.
I don't
Dave
#21
from JEGS.
Here's the LINK.
They're almost double the price, but at this point an extra
$3.00 per connector wasn't worth worrying about!
The trick is to close the clamp so it fits inside the sleeve with the adjustment screw in the slot of the finisher positioned how you'll want it to end up, then open the clamp, which will spread the finisher sleeve as far as you need to fit it over the hose. After you get the hose on to the taps and you start to tighten the hose clamp be sure the tail stays inside the finisher sleeve.
A little oil on the taps helps and so does heating up the hose a bit with a heat gun, if you use heat be sure to wear gloves, that aluminium braid gets quite hot very quickly.
Oh, and watch out for those prickly wire ends, ended up trimming them with tin snips.
Good luck.
#22
Fitting my BSH OCC when I am off over Easter as have the Evolve FMIC to fit at same time and may be doing some other work like water pump and thermostat whilst I am there.
Is it worth fitting the dual tap that I got with the OCC or does the 2 blanking plugs available from Peugeot do the same thing? If they do I might as well use those and sell the dual tap.
Is it worth fitting the dual tap that I got with the OCC or does the 2 blanking plugs available from Peugeot do the same thing? If they do I might as well use those and sell the dual tap.
#23
Fitting my BSH OCC when I am off over Easter as have the Evolve FMIC to fit at same time and may be doing some other work like water pump and thermostat whilst I am there.
Is it worth fitting the dual tap that I got with the OCC or does the 2 blanking plugs available from Peugeot do the same thing? If they do I might as well use those and sell the dual tap.
Is it worth fitting the dual tap that I got with the OCC or does the 2 blanking plugs available from Peugeot do the same thing? If they do I might as well use those and sell the dual tap.
#24
I had the same problem with the Jegs units, ended up ordering the Russell units
from JEGS.
Here's the LINK.
They're almost double the price, but at this point an extra
$3.00 per connector wasn't worth worrying about!
The trick is to close the clamp so it fits inside the sleeve with the adjustment screw in the slot of the finisher positioned how you'll want it to end up, then open the clamp, which will spread the finisher sleeve as far as you need to fit it over the hose. After you get the hose on to the taps and you start to tighten the hose clamp be sure the tail stays inside the finisher sleeve.
A little oil on the taps helps and so does heating up the hose a bit with a heat gun, if you use heat be sure to wear gloves, that aluminium braid gets quite hot very quickly.
Oh, and watch out for those prickly wire ends, ended up trimming them with tin snips.
Good luck.
from JEGS.
Here's the LINK.
They're almost double the price, but at this point an extra
$3.00 per connector wasn't worth worrying about!
The trick is to close the clamp so it fits inside the sleeve with the adjustment screw in the slot of the finisher positioned how you'll want it to end up, then open the clamp, which will spread the finisher sleeve as far as you need to fit it over the hose. After you get the hose on to the taps and you start to tighten the hose clamp be sure the tail stays inside the finisher sleeve.
A little oil on the taps helps and so does heating up the hose a bit with a heat gun, if you use heat be sure to wear gloves, that aluminium braid gets quite hot very quickly.
Oh, and watch out for those prickly wire ends, ended up trimming them with tin snips.
Good luck.
#25
Dave