Doesn't the sport button give like 20tq extra for certain periods of time during wot?


Cause we don't have that 192 on tap unless the button is pressed. I could be super wrong here.

 

i have a custom downpipe from 2kRacing in Reseda (which i believe is the stock DP, but they gutted it). my exhaust is a custom straight pipe exhaust from the same company. i have the stock intake with a K&N drop in filer. i also have the Alta FMIC. The overboost problem has INDEED stopped since installing the FMIC. Jags said that a recent dyno has proved the tune to produce 32 hp 35 lbs/tq on a brand new stock MINI Cooper S. he says that with an FMIC it produces 40hp / 60lbs/tq. i really want to dyno my car. only problem is that i dont have the stock numbers and i dont want to put my car fully back to stock just to get those numbers. then i would have to put everything back on my car and dyno it again. but you say you dont necessarily care about a pre-tune dyno. so in that case, i need to save up for a few dyno runs. until then, i would check the ETG site for any postings of the MINI gains from the tune. i would short cut all that, call jags and ask him to email you personally any info that you want.

 

have you been speaking with jags directly? im curious to know what he says. cause i have the ETG tune on my 2011 Clubman S and i want to know my numbers. if its proving to be weak i may consider other options. but jags has been really cool thru all of this, i must say. i would like to see what he is offering you after not being pleased with your numbers. but if you could post the dyno results, that would be awesome. also, do you have a FMIC?

 

You definitely don't need to strip everything off to get a sense of what the tune has done. We know what the stock numbers are (181 HP, 192 TQ), which I believe are at the crank. I believe Jags's claims (221 HP, 252 TQ) are also at the crank. Assuming ~15% drivetrain loss, you're looking for approximately 188 WHP and 214 WTQ. (Stock would be 153 WHP and 163 WTQ.) If you see those numbers, you'll know Jags more or less delivered on his promise. So the absence of a "before" dyno is really no big deal.

I wonder if a failure to account for drivetrain loss is RYBREMINI's issue. If he would post his numbers, we could tell him what's up.

 

call and ask jags why my car showed 30psi during a boost surge..he'll explain it to you gladly.

 

yup thats why i wanna get my car on a dyno asap.

 

I believe I've seen the stock whp rated at around 160whp and 170wtq not that it matters. Also you can roughly see what RYBREMINI posted before his tune with just a few bolt-ons.

 

seriously. haha he should also keep the stock DP and get a FMIC. he'd be much happier.

 

Go for it!

 

If only and we pray hard, we can probably get that OBDII if that company is legit in offering it to people in mid-April we will find out.

I really don't want to bench tune and then find out they come out with a OBDII tool for our MINIs, I am going to wait no matter how much low patience I have at this point haha.

Gab, I think you should just dyno it to see what numbers you got now. I mean you have driven it over 100 miles by now right?

 

yes definitely. that's the plan. ill post numbers as soon as i do!

 

That's about a 12% drivetrain loss. That would be one efficient drivetrain!

 

My stock run was 172 hp and 184 tq. On a dynojet with only a k&n filter.

 

you are talking about the stock mini "overboost"

it is not tied to the sport button

scott

 

I wanted to hold out on results out of respect for ETG. As I said they are extremely helpful and great to deal with. To answer the previous question, I do have fmic, ddm race intake, and cat-back system. with those mods I dyno at 176.63hp/192tq @ wheels. After tune is showing 182.33hp/202tq. Yes, I know the difference between crank/wheel hp. I must admit, I used a dynojet both times but at different shops because of availability which I understand is not ideal. Also Jags recommended stk airbox which I did not use. Car is running pretty rich at higher rpms. I am going to swap boxes and try again on original dyno. Afterwards I will send this info back to Jags and we will go from there. I am confident in his support. And Im hoping we can get to where we want to be. At that point I hope to be able to post some more thorough and positive info.

 

Thanks Rybremini. I don't see how anyone could read what you just wrote and perceive any disrespect for Jags.

And your numbers aren't bad, actually. A little under the 188 WHP and 214 WTQ I had in mind, but still not bad.

Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, your 202 TQ at the wheels predicts roughly 232 TQ at the crank. Not too shabby, actually. (Your 192 TQ at the wheels pre-tune predicts 220 TQ at the crank, a gain of 18 TQ over the factory quote which seems like a lot for bolt ons. Go bolt ons!)

Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, your 182 HP at the wheels predicts roughly 209 HP at the crank. Not too shabby, actually. (Your 177 HP at the wheels pre-tune predicts 203 HP at the crank, a gain of 21 HP over the factory quote which, again, seems like a lot for bolt ons. Again go bolt ons!)

So your estimated 209 HP/232 TQ at the crank from the tune is lower than his claim of 222 HP/252 TQ, but it's not terribly far off. I wonder if the issue is that his quotes assume 93 octane. It would be interesting to see what happens if you ran a tank of 93 octane gas, then refilled with 93 octane gas and re-dynoed it. I bet your at-the-wheel numbers would predict closer to the 222 HP and 252 TQ figures Jags quotes.

Edit: Forgot to mention two things:

(1) I doubt your intake is an issue. Jags' overarching point is to avoid sucking in hot air from the engine bay. There is a lot of dispute on whether it makes a difference or not, but even assuming he's right, I don't see that your DDM Works intake is an issue. As I understand it, when the hood is closed, the box is sealed to the engine bay and pulling ambient air through the scoop and the OEM snorkel. I doubt this is a problem. But if Jags insists, you might as well humor him and test it with the OEM box. I would not mix that change with too many other changes, though. Otherwise, we won't know what the culprit is.

(2) I know this thread is about N18s, but others have made the mistake of reporting N14 results in a thread about N18 engines (looking at you, Fish Bert). Do you have an N18 (2011-2013) engine?

 

Ive never used anything but 93 since car was new. Understandably, I need to get back on the first dyno, but the way Im looking at it, 5-6 hp over the pre-tune dyno is not what I was expecting. and if the car could be leaned out at from 4-6krpm, it could make more power. I realize tuners will go lean for safety, It does seem a bit much however.

 

Rich good sir, they go rich for safety

What is your A/F ratio at that range?

 

Like I have said like 100 times.. you have a stock DP. A catless DP ALWAYS throws a CEL for a 2nd o2 sensor. You NEVER did, 2k racing removed the mid section, secondary cat (unmonitored cat) and resonator. You do not have a high flow or any special DP, I have seen the car personally and worked on it.

Your brain cant understand the idea of PSI on a small frame turbo if you think 30 PSI is ever safe on a K03 turbo. Do some reading and research about turbos and efficiency.

I refuse to talk to you or jags because you have no idea what you are talking about and his tune is in my eyes 3rd rate. Going to ETG for a tune would be like going to Mexico for a rolex, you can do it but its not the same. I do remember he tried to blame your boost gauge for your over boosting issues and just straight cut all the wires to the gauge like it was going to fix it. Then he blamed your stock DP, (which you for some reason thought was modded.) for your overboost problems. You say he could change the boost requests all of a sudden but he should have done it from day 1 when you had problems instead of blaming you. We could get into the threatening texts he sent you swearing at you and cursing you and threatening me. See i tried to keep it civil for you but I will go full disclosure if you would like.

Like I have told all of you, your cars may be running fine in your eyes or "feel good" but without any sort of logging or A/F monitoring you really dont know how your cars are running to be honest.

If the ETG tune makes under 200WHP I would consider it a complete waste of time and money and would wait for a better option. Patience will be your friend especially when you are gambling around on a $30-40k investment, last thing you want is to drop a cylinder or a piston. R56 engines are very easy to blow up, ask MINI Works about the 6 they just had in with blown motors on stock tunes. Id play it safe or be prepared for the end results.

Jan, refused to touch your ECU cause he doesnt trust ETG/Jags from prior experiences and prior examples of his work. You cant expect one company to clean up another companies mess when the damage from the other company is ultimately unknown. And for that you really cant blame jan.

Gab, my name is one thing you should keep out of your mouth, along with Jans.

Enjoy your tune I will sit back and watch like this:

EDIT:

After seeing your 182WHP/202WTQ, I can say his tuning speaks for itself. If a Gen 1 could get to 210WHP/240WTQ with the AP tunes (canned tunes) why wouldnt the Gen 2 be able to since ultimately its the same tuning just a different method of loading the tune. Sounds like there needs to be some real R&D into these tunes.

Like I said 225WHP/250WTQ on my car says plenty when comparing tuning companies, granted I am a Gen 1, I believe a good dyno tune would yield another 40WHP on the Gen2 with bolt ons. But I guess we will wait and see.

 

Rich. yes precisely what i meant. 10.82/1 at 6000

 

To kind of change the subject from ETG for a minute, I spoke with one of the techs from RENNtech and he was very adamant about changing the oil cooler just as much as the intercooler. Maybe because they endorse PAW motorsports in Miami and visa versa? (that's who he recommended)

I haven't heard that mentioned much and wanted to see what you guys thought. If nothing else maybe keeping oil temps down can aid in engine longevity.

He also said with a DP those number can be raised, but Theta from what I understood they don't do a dyno tune, its extra to use the dyno.

 

From what I understand, the Oiler Cooler is to keep the temps at cooler levels under hard driving on longer stints (see M7's website) and would be more of a longevity maintenance part. I'm getting one eventually, but since my engine is new (about 8,000miles) and I'm only running and stage 1 Alta tune with a custom exhaust an ALTA CAI I won't get one until I get more parts to run a stage 3 map. Plus I only drive it hard for about 15mins tops about once every month when I take it through the winding mountains here in CO.

 

From my experience MINIs do not have an "oil cooler" stock..

This is a real oil cooler for an R56/R56LCI:

http://www.sneed4speed.com/mini-oil-...y-sneed4speed/

The car has a heat exchanger in the oil system that helps with heat, but that is not something you would swap out.

#4 in the diagram is the stock heat exchanger.



EDIT:

I called Renntech to discuss the oi cooler mentioning. He said they recommend one to all higher hp (220WHP+) R56's since it is well known the R56 pistons crack and fail from heat commonly. Oil cooler helps reduce that problem.

My experience is 109K miles, 60k tuned and I have good compression per my recent test. So its all in how you maintain and drive your car. If you plan to track the car or drive hard on runs constantly its not a bad thing to get, but stock we do not have one.

RennTech will do custom dyno tuning as well for those who are local and willing to pay for dyno time. I would do this if I was anyone near them. Dyno tunes gain 20-30WHP more on a R56 than the canned tunes do. After talking with them for a good 30 mins. on the phone I would choose them out of the options I have seen provided thus far (since RMW isnt an option). Plus RennTech is known for having beastly tunes for the AMGs.

Cheers.

 

for sure. i respect that you dont choose to talk too much about it out of respect to Jags and ETG. Jags is a good guy. ya those numbers are iffy. but he'll help us both get our cars where we want them to be!. first thing's first. i need to dyno my car.

 

good luck. let me know how things go