Drivetrain Burger Motorsports (BMS) Tune(s)
#427
So what do you recommend the 91 octane guys to set it at? 25%? or has the default 50% been working for most people?
#428
#432
#433
#434
Also, took the JB+ off yesterday (dealer visit tomorrow). Now I has sad ;(
#435
Being a " Gear Head" for over 40 years from the days owning a 440 CU Mopar, big block Chevelle etc...Ive learned that a good free flowing panel in the stock air box is almost always better that any open element filter under the hood. If someone wanted to do it correctly, I envision a ram air scoop at the back edge of the hood feeding cold air down into the air box. Owners should invest in better brakes, better handling. With all of that said, I did remove the muffler in the air intake line from the Turbo to the intercooler and there is no noise or sound increase but I do feel better response at lower rev's.
#436
DashCommand software on an iPhone or Android with a Kiwi2 wifi adapter works great for me. Plus I get to see gauges like boost, MAF, fuel trim, advance, coolant temp etc...
#437
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: terry@burgertuning.com
Posts: 519
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As far as "determining what is safe or not" good luck getting anyone to agree on that. Our position is the JB+ @ 50% is tuned safely for 91-93 octane. But I expect opinions will vary wildly and that is part of the reason for the adjustment dial. A MIN setting on the dial is basically factory tuning while a MAX is as aggressive as we think the JB+ can safely operate at with sufficient octane. Adjust accordingly.
#438
Oops sorry Terry forgot to mention the Bavarian Techniques for data logging. Nice software/hardware combo for detailed analysis. Without having access to one of these tools wherein you can log, plot and analyze the data I would not recommend touching the JB+ setting. We all know each Mini is different. This is my daily driver, also my second Mini and I plan to keep her for a long time.
I'm establishing a base line of the system with my existing mods now before I install the JB+ logging Boost, RPM, AFR, MAF, Timing, IAT, EGT, Lambda, Throttle position etc.., exporting it into MS Excel to plot, and plan a dyno run. Then once the ECU has had time to adapt to the JB+ I'll do the same.
Then and only then would I even consider adjusting the potentiometer. Followed by further logging and analysis with additional dyno runs.
Motoring in a Mini is fun. Having to pull an engine because of a cracked piston is not.
I'm establishing a base line of the system with my existing mods now before I install the JB+ logging Boost, RPM, AFR, MAF, Timing, IAT, EGT, Lambda, Throttle position etc.., exporting it into MS Excel to plot, and plan a dyno run. Then once the ECU has had time to adapt to the JB+ I'll do the same.
Then and only then would I even consider adjusting the potentiometer. Followed by further logging and analysis with additional dyno runs.
Motoring in a Mini is fun. Having to pull an engine because of a cracked piston is not.
#439
Now I'm actually hitting 16/17 psi.
I'd barely hit 15 with the open intake.
That very strong smooth pull is definitely back. My passengers can even feel the difference.
#440
So here is my $0.02 for what it is worth.
The JB+ is fantastic and is worth far more than $300 in my opinion. The power is smooth and it makes the car deceptively fast. Additionally, it is the easiest mod in the world to install on a MINI, maybe easier than a stubby antenna!
To compare it to my R56 with the Alta Accessport, this does not seem to jerk you back in the seat like the AP did on my N14, however, my N18 also seems to be running far smoother and my turbo does not sound like it is going to explode like it did with the AP. Also, with the N14 and a Alta Intake, it did not seem to matter whether the intake was on or off the car, however, the tune on the AP seemed to be geared towards a intake, exhaust, DP, Etc, and the JB+ is not. I think this is great, because I could install the JB+ on my stock car, make it way more fun to drive, it is not killing the engine and I saved $1000+ not having to buy additional aftermarket parts to get the full potential with the stock setting.
So someone on this thread said their MCS now feels like a JCW, not calling them out, but I have owned one, now own a 06 GP(different car, but still a different form of JCW) and I can tell you, the car does not pull as hard as a factory JCW. Again, you are also saving $6,000+ by not having a fJCW car, but you are making it boat loads more fun with the JB+, again, WELL WORTH THE $ ALL DAY LONG!
Last, my car now feels like it needs a LSD. I can now spin the tire shifting into 2nd gear on dry road! Partially, this has to do with the lack of traction with Continental Run Flat tires, those could use a upgrade, but with only 15k miles, they will have to suffice.
Overall, this gives your N18 MCS a great amount of power, you cannot beat the price and any amateur can install it on their car. Hands down, the very first mod everyone should buy for their N18 MCS.
The JB+ is fantastic and is worth far more than $300 in my opinion. The power is smooth and it makes the car deceptively fast. Additionally, it is the easiest mod in the world to install on a MINI, maybe easier than a stubby antenna!
To compare it to my R56 with the Alta Accessport, this does not seem to jerk you back in the seat like the AP did on my N14, however, my N18 also seems to be running far smoother and my turbo does not sound like it is going to explode like it did with the AP. Also, with the N14 and a Alta Intake, it did not seem to matter whether the intake was on or off the car, however, the tune on the AP seemed to be geared towards a intake, exhaust, DP, Etc, and the JB+ is not. I think this is great, because I could install the JB+ on my stock car, make it way more fun to drive, it is not killing the engine and I saved $1000+ not having to buy additional aftermarket parts to get the full potential with the stock setting.
So someone on this thread said their MCS now feels like a JCW, not calling them out, but I have owned one, now own a 06 GP(different car, but still a different form of JCW) and I can tell you, the car does not pull as hard as a factory JCW. Again, you are also saving $6,000+ by not having a fJCW car, but you are making it boat loads more fun with the JB+, again, WELL WORTH THE $ ALL DAY LONG!
Last, my car now feels like it needs a LSD. I can now spin the tire shifting into 2nd gear on dry road! Partially, this has to do with the lack of traction with Continental Run Flat tires, those could use a upgrade, but with only 15k miles, they will have to suffice.
Overall, this gives your N18 MCS a great amount of power, you cannot beat the price and any amateur can install it on their car. Hands down, the very first mod everyone should buy for their N18 MCS.
#443
#447
Put boost on speedo and fuel to make sure you're not off by one
#449
#450
Hadn't looked till you mentioned it but found a Shell station selling E85 about 6 miles from the house. Am looking forward to trying it. Living at sea level the stock boost seems to top out around 12.5.