So the GP2 is a JCW with higher CR then. Would it be fair to say the JCW has more power potential due to the lower CR?

 

How do I buy one of these and when will they be available...

 

http://burgertuning.com/mini_cooper.html

Stay tuned (pun intended) to the thread, BMS updates when more are available.

 

Just order on the site and we'll ship them as we make em.

 

Terry,

A little off topic but can one use the Bavarian Technic Tool and software to change and activate settings in the various ECU's. Such as one touch sunroof, etc. I currently use NCS Expert, but this looks like it could be more useful in the long run.

 

What is this 'dial' you speak of? Are you all just referring to meth injection?

 

Pot inside the JB+.

 

Adjustable resistor

 

Huh, it's not mentioned on the site. I'm satisfied with my JB+, but more power would be great. Unfortunately I'm living the worst case scenario in Los Angeles with no meth and 91 E10 as the standard fuel. How exactly is this adjustable?

 

Don't touch it. Unless you can run higher octane and/or meth/water injection. Don't blow your motor for 10 hp

 

so i run 93 exclusevely and with new england winter rolling in, ambient air temps are going to be ~50F at most for the next 5 months.....do you think ide be safe pushing the POT 1 notch past stock?

also, would you recommend switching to colder plugs?...i dont see how it could hurt, just wondering if you have done any run any test with them and noticed a difference.

and just curious, have you guys run any test to see approximatelly how much HP each additional position past stock on the POT gives?

 

Against my better judgement I went to 7 (2 o'clock on the turn pot) and took it for a spirited run. I immediately felt more power in the mid range. I had boost dialed up on the speedo and buried the needle past 16psi, but timing dropped to 3 degrees so I let up immediately. I have to assume the boost gains are negligible if timing is pulled. I'm running 93 octane so I thought it could handle it. I'm going to change boost to the fuel gauge and AFR to the speedo this afternoon and test again to see if it goes lean. That way I can see 10-20 psi on the gauge and monitor fuel. I didn't get any CEL.

 

Timing and boost are mapped together so higher boost always means less timing, all else being equal. But, more boost and less timing does not always mean more power.

On the boost gauge, there are a couple other options. In the latest CT firmware I added option 5 which rescales the speed from 10-26psi. So, 16psi = 60mph, for example. But you'd need the BMS USB cable to update the CT software. The second option is menu 8 where you can enter a boost offset. This value will basically subtract itself from the boost level. So if you set this to 5 for example then your boost will show 5psi less in the speedo. e.g. 15psi will show as 10psi. So 16psi in the speedo (the max it can read) would now be 21psi.

 

OK, thanks Terry that helps. Although it took me 2 tries to realize that mode 8 was in 1/10ths so I had to go to 50 tenths to equal 5 psi offset. This is a huge difference from 50%. My norm now in 2nd and 3rd gear pulls is 14.5psi instead of 12.5, but I'm getting peaks at 18psi. Timing held strong and no CEL. AFR also held strong 13.5-15:1. I expected the ECU to try and enrich to 11 or 12, but I didn't see it move below 13.5. One thing that concerned me was that it didn't hold 18psi very solid, it jumped +/- .5. Maybe that's normal at those levels as the BPV is probably releasing. I think I'll drop it down to 6 as I'm probably at the limit for my stock setup.

 

Depending on the ethanol content of the fuel used at some point the DME can run out of fuel trim room. So keep an eye on AFR as well.

 

I don't plan on it. But this 20whp and 30wtq, I'm assuming this is the power output with the resistor adjusted and not on it's stock setting, correct? Because my car certainly feels more powerful, but 20 wheel HP faster? Not really. Maybe more like 10whp or so.

Terry, you're in CA, so your testing has been done with 91 E10 as well right?

 

Preset from BMS with the appropriate octane gas it is 20whp and 30wtq. Proven.

 

Huh, well that's good to know. Come to think of it the only times I had a chance to really get on it was with a friend in the car. The added weight no doubt had an effect. Unfortunately this little tune made me have the mod bug. Lately I've been researching meth kits, intercoolers etc. Next up I'd like an Alta exhaust and the 10HP that comes with it. I don't suppose you know if that power gain is proven as well? (exhaust only, without the DP?)

 

Our testing was 20rw at the default setting on 93 octane, IIRC. But I expect there will be a lot of variance based on conditions.

 

Does ambient air temperature have an effect on power output while running the jb? Like 90 degrees vs 50 degrees?

Sent from my iPhone using NAMotoring

 

Do you remember off hand what the ambient temperature was the day you tested? Should we expect the 20whp and 30wtq in optimal cold conditions and less with hot days or the posted gains in warmer summer time temps and see even more on a cold day.

you've only gotten into the car once and are questioning the gains of the tune? how many miles do you have into your adaptation period? i'm only about 25 miles in and say 17 psi on the highway today.I can feel every bit of the 20whp and 30wtq.

 

? I've had the tune on for around 200 miles. It's just that my daily drive is in traffic so when I go WOT it's for a short period of time. Don't get me wrong, I feel a significant difference and am in no way dissatisfied with my purchase. It is very possible that my perception of HP is off since this is my first ever power adding mod.

 

the real test is, drive with the jb+ on for a while, then take it off one day. if you miss that power, that means it was there.

 

Just wondering if the JB+ should have a weather seal of any type on the housing? I'm in the Chicago area and am concerned salt/road chemicals will leach their way into the housing. I thought about using a strip of black gorilla tape or a bead of silicone along the housing seam and screw locations to help isolate the internals from the elements. I also thought about placing the JB+ in a section of bike inner tube and cynching and sealing the ends...although this might lead to condensation.

Anyone have any good ways to trick this out a little bit better? A preformed silicone gasket seal would have been nice.

 

I thought about that actually. But once again, I don't doubt the power is there, I just think my idea of what 20whp should feel like is what's off.

Also, BRGII/Black FTW!