So with all the maps available, is there something for those that don't want meth but have fbo and want a bit more than the JB+?

 

Stage II Plus is not for Meth only. On the Stage II plus, Map C is for Meth and or Race gas. A & B is set for 91 octane or better. You are only a Downpipe away from a Stage II. If I were you I would get the Stage II or II plus in the event you plan on running a Cat-less DP in the future. If you think you were ever going to have an opportunity to run Meth or race fuel, I'd spend the extra 50 bones to have that available just in case.

 

Of course, you can have all your maps set for your premium fuel were you live. Each map will be a little more aggressive than the next. You could even make map C for special occasion, like for race gas. It's up to you, just let the tuner know before it's ordered

BTW, I don't think there is ever a time, we just want a little more . More more more and more please

 

I'm running the akrapovic and full 2.5 exhaust at the moment so pretty much DP-less...

Mario, I have time to kill and a nice drive to your area come October, look for a PM soon.

 

Give me a date and you can drive my car. If you want, we can tune your car at lunch

 

Prolly 2nd week of October. And honestly a ride in your car should be plenty... You know it better than anyone.

Honestly I'm looking for passing power... The JB+ dies after 4.5k. I want power to redline, top end rebuild later when funds can afford it.

100 octane is available near my work for those special occasions, e85 up the street..

 

What is the going rate for rebuilding the bottom end and cylinder head?

 

Sounds good. I'm going on a Cruise and couple other trips this and next month. Send me a PM with your cell and info, so we can coordinate

 

You can get to the point where your spraying so much your just replacing one fuel with another instead of just cooling and knock prevention.

 

That's why I wish there was a more definitive reason for running a 500cc nozzle. I was hoping someone had the no **** "Left and Right Limits" to stay within. I'm sure there is a reason for running said amount of Meth. But it would be nice to have a technical reason. 😁

On a side note: 68 deg Ambient weather + running Map C = PURE BLISS😮

 

Four to five K for the bottom end will cover new rods, pistons, bearings, oil pump, drive chain, timing chain and boring and honing. About 1.5 to two K for the head will get you CNCed pockets, porting, polishing, five angle valve job with titanium retainers. The N18 head being valvetronic is different because when you cut the valve seat and the face of the valve it causes the valve to sit lower in the pocket. Whatever that difference is needs to be machined off the top of the valve stem. Otherwise the valve will be open more when the eccentric shaft is at the same position. Drive-ability will be unaffected but it can make the idle erratic as the ECU tries to compensate. Thats why there's no performance cam for the N18 yet. You would need to have the eccentric shaft re-profiled or they would have to provide one in addition to the cams. Lots of math there and can we say sssspensive. Cheaper to have Ferrea make a set of valves with undercut stems. Plan on better springs with their valves though as their heavier being solid stainless instead of hollow sodium filled.

 

That's a lot less than buying a new engine from Mini, surprised more MCS owners don't go this route, it's cheaper and just a (wiser decision) better option!

 

In a "build to spec" engine having it built is the only way. A reman Long block, which MINI calls a Short Engine is $4185.00 online, plus shipping - maybe + core and ship back, but I don't see those as listed items at Sewell. Bone-stock S.


http://mini.sewellparts.com/oem-cata...R56S-2008.html

 

That's mine plan. I should be getting a little pickup truck in November to serve as a DD, then I can afford to be without the car and put it into the shop to get the bottom-end done. Not going to mess with the head and valve-train.

 

Sometimes it can be a bit hard to visualize what a serious compromise the factory pistons are. So I thought I'd upload these comparison photos, as well as a closeup of an under the skirt shot. Haven't seen any underside pics of the factory piston online and it amazed me when I first saw how much metal they removed to save a quarter of a mile per gallon.





I've heard a small amount of grumbling about how rich Nick sets these tunes. I wouldn't grumble. Nick knows exactly what he's doing. Yes by running rich you leave a little bit of power on the table but, and this is a BIG but, that richness is what stands between you and a knackered piston.

 

^ wow.

 

Hmmm. That's crazy. Those new ones look great though.

 

Amazing, what a world of difference!

 

Tigger2011,

Thanks for that statement at the end of your post. I for one was not really complaining about running rich, but I am happy to know that the richness in the tune is conducive to a non catastrophic event😮

I for one don't have the money right now to be able to replace a blown motor, just because we were trying to squeeze out a few more ponies. I am 100% satisfied with the power this tune is laying down. I feel planning for a better clutch & solid motor mounts will help put more power to the wheels rather than Leaning out the tune. Lastly Traction is my worse enemy, not sure what the remedy for that being its a FWD, so jealous of my Wife's CMS All4😁

 

Well there's always mechanical LSD's like a Wavetrac or Qualfe helical unit, or wider tires...235's will fit without rubbing. As a last resort you could have your right leg shortened. Nah on second thought I'd probably skip that last one.

 

Kinda behind on this thread. But is the piston failure for the R56 applying towards the N18? I know one of the main revision were the piston design between the n14 and n18 because of those failures. Also yes I need to eventually get an LSD, Wider tires, Wheels, Clutch, and Brake kit. Money money money. Lol

 

Yep the N14's do have a history of more failures and the pistons were redesigned for the N18. Whether the difference in total failures is due to the redesign or because the N14's have accumulated more total average mileage is anybodies guess. I can however tell you the pictures posted above were from a 2014 model N18 engine with the latest piston design.

 

So are these the JCW N18 pistons, or the Cooper S pistons? I do remember reading somewhere that the JCW pistons have thicker ringlands possibly than the Cooper S piston.

 

These are the Cooper S pistons. I know the JCW pistons are 10.25:1 and use a thicker head gasket to drop the compression to 10:1. I have also heard they are beefier but I've never seen a set. Maybe one of our enterprising NAM brothers can upload some pics of the stock JCW's if they have them.....

 

Anyone with Manic Tune and Meth Kit? Are you still under ambient on your IATs as you approach redline? Or does your IATs rise over ambient?