Drivetrain Manic Motorsport brings us N18 owners OBD II Tuning! Solution is finally here!
#1928
#1931
BTW, showing 366 pounds of torque with 273 HP
Last edited by rckrzy1; 07-26-2015 at 08:21 AM.
#1932
I run a 3+ with JMTC E45R. The thing has been blowing boost up to 30 so fast it's scary.
Perhaps the DME just cannot deal.
I'm going to install a "manual" boost controller as a safety measure.
I'll report back next week. Also will have true dyno numbers with my new FMIC.
all this provided the motor stays together. With 105K and some funny noises, the end must be near for the little 1.6l.
Perhaps the DME just cannot deal.
I'm going to install a "manual" boost controller as a safety measure.
I'll report back next week. Also will have true dyno numbers with my new FMIC.
all this provided the motor stays together. With 105K and some funny noises, the end must be near for the little 1.6l.
#1933
What is happening is its over boosting or going high at the shift . It's holding good until the car shifts and it's still pushing the boost during the shift ( I have an auto ) so it swings past the point . It's not anticipating the shift and the lack of load for the time it takes to shift. Not sure but I bet others with autos are seeing the same thing.
I think my DV+ may play into this. I'm just not sure if Manic even took that into consideration since I have a Stage 1 .
I think my DV+ may play into this. I'm just not sure if Manic even took that into consideration since I have a Stage 1 .
Last edited by rckrzy1; 07-26-2015 at 02:07 PM.
#1934
I'm questioning my Manic dealer whom I think knows less than I do about cars, because I told him I am running ~99 octane and he responded with I'm running rich. All my years say the higher the octane the less power and would cause leaner, but leaner a little is ok because the octane will slow or stop knock. I just logged and see with 99 octane WOT is 11.9-12.0 , 93 octane was 11.8 , not much of a diff.
I knew very little of boosted cars till my MINI but have schooled myself pretty well.
BTW with 12.0 WOT I was still showing +7 degrees timing @22 pounds of boost
I knew very little of boosted cars till my MINI but have schooled myself pretty well.
BTW with 12.0 WOT I was still showing +7 degrees timing @22 pounds of boost
#1935
I run a 3+ with JMTC E45R. The thing has been blowing boost up to 30 so fast it's scary.
Perhaps the DME just cannot deal.
I'm going to install a "manual" boost controller as a safety measure.
I'll report back next week. Also will have true dyno numbers with my new FMIC.
all this provided the motor stays together. With 105K and some funny noises, the end must be near for the little 1.6l.
Perhaps the DME just cannot deal.
I'm going to install a "manual" boost controller as a safety measure.
I'll report back next week. Also will have true dyno numbers with my new FMIC.
all this provided the motor stays together. With 105K and some funny noises, the end must be near for the little 1.6l.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...04-Boost-creep
Your wastegate port is too small and it cannot bypass enough exhaust gases to properly control boost. Pretty common on NON Borg Warner turbos. If I recall correctly there was 2 Countrymen that had similar overboost issues with K04 turbos that blew motors.
#1936
#1938
Manic Dealer is correct
I'm questioning my Manic dealer whom I think knows less than I do about cars, because I told him I am running ~99 octane and he responded with I'm running rich. All my years say the higher the octane the less power and would cause leaner, but leaner a little is ok because the octane will slow or stop knock. I just logged and see with 99 octane WOT is 11.9-12.0 , 93 octane was 11.8 , not much of a diff.
I knew very little of boosted cars till my MINI but have schooled myself pretty well.
BTW with 12.0 WOT I was still showing +7 degrees timing @22 pounds of boost
I knew very little of boosted cars till my MINI but have schooled myself pretty well.
BTW with 12.0 WOT I was still showing +7 degrees timing @22 pounds of boost
#1939
Go to your installer...
Go to the installer you used. Speak to them about the issue. They should help you out...
#1940
What is happening is its over boosting or going high at the shift . It's holding good until the car shifts and it's still pushing the boost during the shift ( I have an auto ) so it swings past the point . It's not anticipating the shift and the lack of load for the time it takes to shift. Not sure but I bet others with autos are seeing the same thing.
I think my DV+ may play into this. I'm just not sure if Manic even took that into consideration since I have a Stage 1 .
I think my DV+ may play into this. I'm just not sure if Manic even took that into consideration since I have a Stage 1 .
Either way, I sure wouldn't be running map C with a cat and only 99 octane. Also I would remove your DV+ and install an uprated DV. When we went stage 3 with a new turbo, it was doing sort of what you described until the DV+ was removed and an uprated part that came with the turbo was installed.
My car is a 2011 automatic.
#1941
#1942
I'm not sure if it works this way, but I thought Map C needed race gas or meth. Is this not the case with stage 1 tunes and only 2+ and up??
Either way, I sure wouldn't be running map C with a cat and only 99 octane. Also I would remove your DV+ and install an uprated DV. When we went stage 3 with a new turbo, it was doing sort of what you described until the DV+ was removed and an uprated part that came with the turbo was installed
My car is a 2011 automatic.
Either way, I sure wouldn't be running map C with a cat and only 99 octane. Also I would remove your DV+ and install an uprated DV. When we went stage 3 with a new turbo, it was doing sort of what you described until the DV+ was removed and an uprated part that came with the turbo was installed
My car is a 2011 automatic.
Dv+ is an upgraded far better diverter valve.
#1943
Insulting people or businesses doesn't get you far in the customer service area.
As for your over boost. The Prosport Boost Gauges are known to read very wrong. Not known for being high quality or accurate. Some of the numbers you posted are not actually possible with a stock turbo to be honest. Especially during shifts when the rpm is so high the turbo will actually start to drop off and can't even hold the target boost numbers of 20-22.
#1944
You can't really expect help from your Manic dealer after that a statement like that.
Insulting people or businesses doesn't get you far in the customer service area.
As for your over boost. The Prosport Boost Gauges are known to read very wrong. Not known for being high quality or accurate. Some of the numbers you posted are not actually possible with a stock turbo to be honest. Especially during shifts when the rpm is so high the turbo will actually start to drop off and can't even hold the target boost numbers of 20-22.
Insulting people or businesses doesn't get you far in the customer service area.
As for your over boost. The Prosport Boost Gauges are known to read very wrong. Not known for being high quality or accurate. Some of the numbers you posted are not actually possible with a stock turbo to be honest. Especially during shifts when the rpm is so high the turbo will actually start to drop off and can't even hold the target boost numbers of 20-22.
I think I have the boost gauge figured out, the crappy silicon line was so hot I think it was blowing up like a balloon and at the shift point was collapsing giving me a spike, I have replaced that with real vacuum line and just did a couple of runs and my peak was 21.5 , far more believable, dash command said 20.5 now as well.
#1946
Ok, here is the numbers, air temps ~88F , did stage 1 map C, then Map B then Stock. So about 25% increase in HP over stock, AFR good, they forgot I wanted AFR so did not get Map C run AFR, but Map B and Stock, and this shows Manic staying safer than stock.
For those wondering about the Ebay FMIC it did well, only climbed 9F above ambient and that was on the 3rd pull were I logged the run with Dash Command. Speaking of the DC was showing my BHP at 274 which is DEAD on with my run showing 80% of that getting to wheels at 219, TQ is off, showed me @ 322 , that @80% is 257, actual was 242, still not bad, I may see if I can adjust that.
Strange is I'm getting max TQ at 2500-3000 , max HP is 5500-6000 which is expected but making most TQ down lower was a pleasant surprise , must be my exhaust and Intake
For those wondering about the Ebay FMIC it did well, only climbed 9F above ambient and that was on the 3rd pull were I logged the run with Dash Command. Speaking of the DC was showing my BHP at 274 which is DEAD on with my run showing 80% of that getting to wheels at 219, TQ is off, showed me @ 322 , that @80% is 257, actual was 242, still not bad, I may see if I can adjust that.
Strange is I'm getting max TQ at 2500-3000 , max HP is 5500-6000 which is expected but making most TQ down lower was a pleasant surprise , must be my exhaust and Intake
Last edited by rckrzy1; 07-29-2015 at 01:32 PM.
#1948
Totally mind blown right now. Noticed my car hasn't pulled as hard as it did before. Spent weeks looking for what I thought was a "boost leak". Could not find one at all even though my gauge reads that I am 1-1.5psi under. Very annoying. Decided to do something completely different and went to the auto parts store and bought MAF Sensor cleaner. Sprayed my MAF, let it dry and damn the car is back to pulling hard again. I am just shocked on how it impacted the car. Probably from my K&N cone. The MAF Cleaner bottle claims 4-10whp gain. I believe it. Car isn't under boosting anymore and is backfiring louder again. $8 bottle did wonders!
#1949
Manic Motorsport brings us N18 owners OBD II Tuning! Solution is finally here!
Originally Posted by Indimanic
Is higher octane fuel really slower burning or is it just more resistant to ignition so it does not pre-ignite under load/pressure? Does not make sense to me.
http://www.racegas.com/article/10