Drivetrain Manic Motorsport brings us N18 owners OBD II Tuning! Solution is finally here!
#2178
Awesome! Are you also running supporting internals?
#2180
As for 8000 ft above sea level, remember, everyone else around you is at the same elevation, so they have the same "handicap". And, I'm having trouble believing El paso is anywhere near 8000 ft above sea level. But, take it back closer to sea level --- you'll notice significant improvements. Might even consider relocating.
#2181
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: At 8200 over sea level
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So much to learn --- what is 1.3, 1.4. & 1.5?
As for 8000 ft above sea level, remember, everyone else around you is at the same elevation, so they have the same "handicap". And, I'm having trouble believing El paso is anywhere near 8000 ft above sea level. But, take it back closer to sea level --- you'll notice significant improvements. Might even consider relocating.
As for 8000 ft above sea level, remember, everyone else around you is at the same elevation, so they have the same "handicap". And, I'm having trouble believing El paso is anywhere near 8000 ft above sea level. But, take it back closer to sea level --- you'll notice significant improvements. Might even consider relocating.
1.3 bar = 18.8549 PSI
1.4 bar = 20.3053 PSI
1.5 bar = 21.7557 PSI
Im not in El Paso, TX, lol, signature not updated, sorry.
#2182
A = zero WMI (for when / if I run out)
B = 80 - 20 mix
C = 100% meth
I'm also using a manual boost controller, and it's adjusted to a constant maximum. Foot pressure determines when it's max.
Another thought about reading boost gauges at elevation ---
Insert key and press start without starting the engine.
Note the boost gauge reading (at 4500' mine reads about -3PSI. at 9000' it reads about -6).
This reading should be considered your "zero" PSI value when monitoring boost. So when I'm at full boost (30PSI) my gauge reads 27PSI. I verified this by driving to the coast a few times. 'Course all boost gauges don't work the same way, so this might not work for you. Try it and let us know?
#2183
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: At 8200 over sea level
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My boost gauge is in PSI, so I didn't even think of bars. My maps vary by WMI, not boost ---
A = zero WMI (for when / if I run out)
B = 80 - 20 mix
C = 100% meth
I'm also using a manual boost controller, and it's adjusted to a constant maximum. Foot pressure determines when it's max.
Another thought about reading boost gauges at elevation ---
Insert key and press start without starting the engine.
Note the boost gauge reading (at 4500' mine reads about -3PSI. at 9000' it reads about -6).
This reading should be considered your "zero" PSI value when monitoring boost. So when I'm at full boost (30PSI) my gauge reads 27PSI. I verified this by driving to the coast a few times. 'Course all boost gauges don't work the same way, so this might not work for you. Try it and let us know?
A = zero WMI (for when / if I run out)
B = 80 - 20 mix
C = 100% meth
I'm also using a manual boost controller, and it's adjusted to a constant maximum. Foot pressure determines when it's max.
Another thought about reading boost gauges at elevation ---
Insert key and press start without starting the engine.
Note the boost gauge reading (at 4500' mine reads about -3PSI. at 9000' it reads about -6).
This reading should be considered your "zero" PSI value when monitoring boost. So when I'm at full boost (30PSI) my gauge reads 27PSI. I verified this by driving to the coast a few times. 'Course all boost gauges don't work the same way, so this might not work for you. Try it and let us know?
My maps are what the Manic Dealer told me they do, not really something I decided or designed.
Thanks on the boost clarification, I only have Dashcommand, so boost levels are going to be what the ECU reports. I dont know if theres any difference with a real boost gauge.
#2184
#2186
It means the manifold pressure is in the negative. This is normal operation for any N/A engine and ours when not in boost (idle/cruising). It's also why dashcommand will report absolute load values above 100%. At 100% load your manifold pressure is equal to atmospheric pressure. When in boost your load values will exceed 200%.
If using a boost gauge you will see higher negative values on your N14 JCW vs the GP2 since the N14 is using the throttle valve to control airflow.
If using a boost gauge you will see higher negative values on your N14 JCW vs the GP2 since the N14 is using the throttle valve to control airflow.
#2188
#2190
#2191
Question for Minimoic --- what does your DashCommand tool indicate for manifold pressure / vacuum when the engine is not running and the electronics are switched on (as I described earlier), while you are at or near 8000' elevation?
Also, is your stage 4 currently installed?
And pepperwhiteknight is correct about pistons creating the vacuum. It's often measured in inches of mercury (inHg), with zero being ambient or atmospheric pressure. At idle (900 RPM), my gauge indicates about 22 inHg --- in the manifold, not the ECU reading (which I virtually never monitor).
Also, is your stage 4 currently installed?
And pepperwhiteknight is correct about pistons creating the vacuum. It's often measured in inches of mercury (inHg), with zero being ambient or atmospheric pressure. At idle (900 RPM), my gauge indicates about 22 inHg --- in the manifold, not the ECU reading (which I virtually never monitor).
#2192
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: At 8200 over sea level
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Question for Minimoic --- what does your DashCommand tool indicate for manifold pressure / vacuum when the engine is not running and the electronics are switched on (as I described earlier), while you are at or near 8000' elevation?
Also, is your stage 4 currently installed?
And pepperwhiteknight is correct about pistons creating the vacuum. It's often measured in inches of mercury (inHg), with zero being ambient or atmospheric pressure. At idle (900 RPM), my gauge indicates about 22 inHg --- in the manifold, not the ECU reading (which I virtually never monitor).
Also, is your stage 4 currently installed?
And pepperwhiteknight is correct about pistons creating the vacuum. It's often measured in inches of mercury (inHg), with zero being ambient or atmospheric pressure. At idle (900 RPM), my gauge indicates about 22 inHg --- in the manifold, not the ECU reading (which I virtually never monitor).
#2193
So, if you read -4 PSI with electronics switched on and the engine is NOT running (zero RPM, not at "idle"), you can consider this the "base" number for actual boost, i.e., when the DashCommand indicates 18 PSI, your actual boost is 4 + 18 or 22 PSI. Gotta remember, this "base" number will vary as your elevation varies, so don't put a lot of faith in the exact boost value. Having retired from the world of electronics manufacturing, there's considerations like calibration, accuracy, tolerances, etc, to be considered. For our purposes, what we see on our own equipment is good enough, as long as we understand what we're seeing.
#2194
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: At 8200 over sea level
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OK I will double check and report back.
Back to the tune/turbo itself, my butt dyno tells me there´s no much difference with stock. I can not say its day/night change. Its very linear and it feels it wont stop pulling, but not a huge change. Im planing on taking the car to the dyno this week.
Back to the tune/turbo itself, my butt dyno tells me there´s no much difference with stock. I can not say its day/night change. Its very linear and it feels it wont stop pulling, but not a huge change. Im planing on taking the car to the dyno this week.
#2195
OK I will double check and report back.
Back to the tune/turbo itself, my butt dyno tells me there´s no much difference with stock. I can not say its day/night change. Its very linear and it feels it wont stop pulling, but not a huge change. Im planing on taking the car to the dyno this week.
Back to the tune/turbo itself, my butt dyno tells me there´s no much difference with stock. I can not say its day/night change. Its very linear and it feels it wont stop pulling, but not a huge change. Im planing on taking the car to the dyno this week.
When you say map C is only for meth, do you mean 100%? Do you already have a WMI system, or is map C for future use?
Be sure to post dyno results ---
#2196
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: At 8200 over sea level
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You want a huge change? Take it down closer to sea level. Not necessarily a change between stock and Manic, just a very noticeable improvement in performance.
When you say map C is only for meth, do you mean 100%? Do you already have a WMI system, or is map C for future use?
Be sure to post dyno results ---
When you say map C is only for meth, do you mean 100%? Do you already have a WMI system, or is map C for future use?
Be sure to post dyno results ---
I have to talk to Manic about map C. I understand its only fot w/m use as it advances timing a lot, but dont know the mix.
I have a Howerton MINI specific kit that Im installing these days, not yet in the car.
#2197
I didnt know what to expect. Just wanted to play a liitle bit because I was able to put my hands on a 47mm turbo. Im not looking for big HP numbers, just as you said. Solid and consistent power delivery.
I have to talk to Manic about map C. I understand its only fot w/m use as it advances timing a lot, but dont know the mix.
I have a Howerton MINI specific kit that Im installing these days, not yet in the car.
I have to talk to Manic about map C. I understand its only fot w/m use as it advances timing a lot, but dont know the mix.
I have a Howerton MINI specific kit that Im installing these days, not yet in the car.
#2200
Pops and gurgles are popular with manic. Some even have the "flame-thrower" version. Talk with your Manic installer, he should be able to work with Nick and minimize or eliminate them. Mine are minimal in normal driving mode --- almost never use sport mode. I gotta try it sometime --- I might like the performance in Manics version.