I got a good deal on a used set of Advan wheels but the bolt holes are for the 12mm.... mine is an 07 with 14mm ....
As I stand over the wheel with drill in hand I figure I would ask around first..hehe
I'm still hunting down some hub rings...( wanted to punch the guy at vivid racing over the phone.. what an *** )
I mic my boar at 61.7 so I was thinking 61.5 would work.... hard to find in aluminum seams like... needing 61.5 x 56.1

Anyway--- anyone else drilled your 12mm bolt holes out to 14mm ???

yeah you will lose some taper but the Advan wheel tapper looks to be long..will mic those next

 

I'm all for doing things yourself...but I wouldn't recommend it without using a drill guide to ensure your perpendicular to the hub flange. You also need a 14mm reamer with a 12mm pilot on it. Otherwise tooling marks in the bolt holes will create stress risers and cracks will propagate from there.

In aviation I find cracked aluminum rims more often then I'd like and it's usually a tool mark or casting imperfection that is the root cause.

 

Ya, I'm with Tigger. I wouldn't do it unless you can do it correctly. Hitting it with a hand drill doesn't sound like a good idea considering the forces presented on a wheel at hard cornering.

 

I tell everyone to run these....

http://www.waymotorworks.com/m14-to-...rsion-kit.html

Add some regular conical nuts and call it a day. You'll be able to run M12 or M14 however you like! :D

 

Yep just get the 14mm to 12mm stud conversion from Way. No more dealing with stupid lug bolts!

 

+1, beat me to it. Conversion studs, simple solution.

I bought 14mm studs just to eliminate the need to fool with wheel bolts, not a fan.

 

You can get an aligning reamer from Wholesale Tools and ream (NOT drill) the rims and use Gorilla Bolts. I get them from Discount Tire. Adapter rings are available there as well. The Gorilla Bolts heads are the same size for 12mm and 14mm threads diameters. The reamer runs about $18. It's a combination tapered reamer transitioning to a straight and is also called a car or construction reamer. The holes in the wheel are larger than 12mm and 14mm.

 

I can't believe you were actually just gonna drill out the holes.

 

I understand on the conversion kit, I even looked at them. I just don't like going backwards ...
I drilled out the wheels on my sandrail but it has balloon type tires on it. I jump it and abuse it and never had an issue
I also drilled out my 10.5 drag car that I launched on NOS. Never saw a crack but after a few weekends to the track I stopped looking as hard.
I was going to chuck the wheels up in the drill press or buddies mill but I kind of feel like a good angle drill bit ( say 90 deg instead of 118 deg ) will keep it self centered . If you chuck it up in a drill press and your off it will just be off centered. With a free hand drill with a bubble level mounted on the back of the drill so you can keep it centered and your drill bit can help keep it centered you should be fine. Remember the tapper of the lug nut / bolt is what centers the wheel . As far as machine marks causing cracks , I could polish up the holes after with a carter key chucked up in the drill and some emery cloth flapping around

As of right now I'm still in "think" mode the stud conversion kit is nice but you guys are talking about load and they did step up the lugs size for a reason. More people are pushing these cars so better get those wheels to stay on...lol

 

doing the 12mm conversion isn't really going backwards. most vehicles run 12mm studs. i have the WMW conversion studs and they are great. i do a lot of autocrossing on them too.

 

thanks whrisk ... I'm actually looking at them right now, I don't like the length of the stud but I can chuck them up in my lathe and cut them down. Looking at some close ended lug nuts

 

It's not that long You'll want that extra bit of length because I don't know if you'll go with spacers in the future but with 10mm front spacers, it will barely clear all the threads.

 

they are not the only set on the market. quick google search came up with these. Should be short enough.

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm...HEELMATE-STUDS

 

WAY's studs are 52mm the ones whrisk sent are 45mm
50mm is 2"


that is 50mm sticking out.... could be cool with some blades on the end to shred other peoples tires...lolol

I GIVE I GIVE...lol
im going to order the way conversions and do a little mod to them

thanks again guys

 

Just saw this, but like they all said using the stud conversion kit is much easier and better than drilling some wheels.

 

Duh.....

 

funny.....
you guys act like drilling out the wheels is a major error...
yes I agree the stud kit might be the best way to do this ( if your cool with smaller studs ) But the face of the rim is held pressed to the rotor by means of the lugs ,,,
the lugs are 60 deg tapper to center the wheel ..
.. not the holes in the wheel.....
hub rings aid in centering the wheel .
.. not the holes in the wheel

 

drilling isn't a big issue.

I did it on the previous set of wheels I had, my CE28 where drilled to fit M14 stud kit, but knowing that these are Advans that you don't see very often, it might behoove you to not redrill you know.

Some might not like the idea of redrilling some nice wheels if you got tired of them and decided to sell them. In my case, it seems I keep changing wheels every 6 months, so someone will likely lowball me because I redrill, I save myself that headache by just running the conversion kit =P

 

The other thing that is nice about the conversion kit is that you get studs, not the bolts that the factory uses.

I agree on several points:
1. drilling holes will be used against you if you ever sell the wheels.
2. It is the tapers on the lugs that secure the wheels, not the bores for the studs.
3. Drilling could be done, but make sure that there are no stress risers that can result in cracks or future problems.

Have fun,
Mike