Drivetrain Aquamist HFS Methanol Injection Systems
#401
#402
Or buy a gas can from them and fill one up.
#404
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I have the HFS-4 with mini tank, but not the IA setup however from their pictures it looks like there's enough room! (post from the "Thoughts on Integral Audio Soundstage ..." thread)
#405
I have the HFS-4 with mini tank, but not the IA setup however from their pictures it looks like there's enough room! (post from the "Thoughts on Integral Audio Soundstage ..." thread)
Thanks red. Yes there is enough room. I was wondering how the cover was cut. The speaker "cover" should be far enough or else it will cause annoying rattles from the tank hitting it. I've been wanting to upgrade my speakers
#406
You guys happen to know what engine codes might be thrown if the failsafe is tripped and puts car in limp mode ?
Over the winter we upgraded our system to the hfs4 (added gauge and failsafe) and now that its spring and I have the car out to play it goes into limp mode when I get into boost. Not saying this is related to the meth system at all but just trying to figure out my issue. I replaced my pressure converter today but it didn't change anything. The codes I get are 2789 and 2ca3 - I don't get a cel - just the half engine light. And once I restart car it's all good until I get up into boost again.
Thanks for any help
Over the winter we upgraded our system to the hfs4 (added gauge and failsafe) and now that its spring and I have the car out to play it goes into limp mode when I get into boost. Not saying this is related to the meth system at all but just trying to figure out my issue. I replaced my pressure converter today but it didn't change anything. The codes I get are 2789 and 2ca3 - I don't get a cel - just the half engine light. And once I restart car it's all good until I get up into boost again.
Thanks for any help
#407
More than likely it is something with the install that is causing the error. A few things:
1.) Make sure that the correct waste gate wire on the ECU connector was spliced. People have been known cut and splice the wrong wire. Actually count the pins on the connector. It should be pin #7. Verify the other connection too.
2.) Verify that the jumpers on the board are set correctly.
3.) Try moving the jumper to DFS. This should disable the failsafes. See if you still get the boost cut.
4.) Try reconnecting the waste gate wire to see if you still have the problem.
Did you get the HFS4 from Howerton? I wondering if the proper links on the control board have been soldered or de-linked.
1.) Make sure that the correct waste gate wire on the ECU connector was spliced. People have been known cut and splice the wrong wire. Actually count the pins on the connector. It should be pin #7. Verify the other connection too.
2.) Verify that the jumpers on the board are set correctly.
3.) Try moving the jumper to DFS. This should disable the failsafes. See if you still get the boost cut.
4.) Try reconnecting the waste gate wire to see if you still have the problem.
Did you get the HFS4 from Howerton? I wondering if the proper links on the control board have been soldered or de-linked.
#409
#410
I would move the jumper from FS0 to DFS. Or you could just put the jumper from PRK on DFS. Either one should work.
I'm not sure if your manic tune requires meth but you can always switch to the stock MAP, that way there are no worries.
#412
Did you setup your WL and WH flow window on the gauge? The "B" should be lit when your inside of the flow window. If it is not then you are outside of the flow window and the fail-safe will activate. It thinks that there is flow obstruction or whatnot.
When the DFS is jumped the "B" should always be lit.
If you haven't setup up the flow window then for testing purposes you can turn the WL all the way counter-clockwise and WH all the way clockwise. This will make the window as large as possible.
When the DFS is jumped the "B" should always be lit.
If you haven't setup up the flow window then for testing purposes you can turn the WL all the way counter-clockwise and WH all the way clockwise. This will make the window as large as possible.
#415
I figured that I running the car harder why not give it a little bit more candy.
#416
Well I went to calibrate gauge and all today and now I know why I had the bad method smell in cabin. Meth is not going past fav so it was squirting out of fav and down into my cabin filter !!!
It looks to be assembled like the ones in you guys' pictures though. I am including a pic so you can tell me what might be wrong. Fyi the meth is pouring out around then area where black plastic clip on piece is.
Thank you for all the help
It looks to be assembled like the ones in you guys' pictures though. I am including a pic so you can tell me what might be wrong. Fyi the meth is pouring out around then area where black plastic clip on piece is.
Thank you for all the help
#417
#418
Well I went to calibrate gauge and all today and now I know why I had the bad method smell in cabin. Meth is not going past fav so it was squirting out of fav and down into my cabin filter !!!
It looks to be assembled like the ones in you guys' pictures though. I am including a pic so you can tell me what might be wrong. Fyi the meth is pouring out around then area where black plastic clip on piece is.
Thank you for all the help
It looks to be assembled like the ones in you guys' pictures though. I am including a pic so you can tell me what might be wrong. Fyi the meth is pouring out around then area where black plastic clip on piece is.
Thank you for all the help
Reinstall. Make sure the the tubes are pushed all the way on and the knurled compression nuts are good and tight. It could have been leaking from here.
Once everything is back together. Remove the jet and place into a 2 liter bottle. Then put the system into "SYS" mode. This will spray at full flow. Check for leaks. It's best to have a set of helping hands for this.
It might not be a bad idea to place a tissue underneath the FAV, it's easier to tell if it's leaking if the tissue is wet.
#419
#421
what a helpful community and I'm glad to be a part of it. Cerenkov has helped me with my mini in general. that guy is a guru..
btw, I got sick of my velcroed (under the cabin filter) meth controller keeps falling and last week I decided to put it inside the glove compartment. I got everything that I needed like a boy scout lol. Rubber grommet, hole saw, and wire loom but today, I "accidentally" realized the rectangular plastic piece inside the compartment easily pops off..
I ran the wire through there and it works perfect. No drilled holes!
I must say it's a HELLO?! moment for me.
btw, I got sick of my velcroed (under the cabin filter) meth controller keeps falling and last week I decided to put it inside the glove compartment. I got everything that I needed like a boy scout lol. Rubber grommet, hole saw, and wire loom but today, I "accidentally" realized the rectangular plastic piece inside the compartment easily pops off..
I ran the wire through there and it works perfect. No drilled holes!
I must say it's a HELLO?! moment for me.
#422
When I turn gauge off it automatically puts me into limp mode. So I just tried to stay out of boost for the night !!
Ok I took the fav out and I can blow through both parts that screw into it for each side but cannot blow whatsoever through the valve itself. But then again I not sure if I should be able to ( maybe it only allows passage when it's signalled to do so ??) I've inlcuded a picture to verfiy what Im referring to and also so you can see what I have and make sure I'm not missing something. I put a piece of yellow tape on the piece that I cannot blow through.
Many Thanks as usual !!
Ok I took the fav out and I can blow through both parts that screw into it for each side but cannot blow whatsoever through the valve itself. But then again I not sure if I should be able to ( maybe it only allows passage when it's signalled to do so ??) I've inlcuded a picture to verfiy what Im referring to and also so you can see what I have and make sure I'm not missing something. I put a piece of yellow tape on the piece that I cannot blow through.
Many Thanks as usual !!
#423
When I turn gauge off it automatically puts me into limp mode. So I just tried to stay out of boost for the night !!
Ok I took the fav out and I can blow through both parts that screw into it for each side but cannot blow whatsoever through the valve itself. But then again I not sure if I should be able to ( maybe it only allows passage when it's signalled to do so ??) I've inlcuded a picture to verfiy what Im referring to and also so you can see what I have and make sure I'm not missing something. I put a piece of yellow tape on the piece that I cannot blow through.
Many Thanks as usual !!
Ok I took the fav out and I can blow through both parts that screw into it for each side but cannot blow whatsoever through the valve itself. But then again I not sure if I should be able to ( maybe it only allows passage when it's signalled to do so ??) I've inlcuded a picture to verfiy what Im referring to and also so you can see what I have and make sure I'm not missing something. I put a piece of yellow tape on the piece that I cannot blow through.
Many Thanks as usual !!
Put it back together, making sure that the o-rings are properly seated. If you want to use a wrench to snug up the pieces that's fine but DO NOT over tighten. Just use your thumb and one finger on the wrench. The o-ring makes the seal.
Install back in the car and reattach the lines. Make sure that the poly/nylon tube is fully seated on the barb fitting then tighten the compression nut. Feel free to use a channel locks on the compression nut but again don't go crazy.
Then test it. If it is still leaking then try tightening the pieces a little more (while it is installed on the car). If it is still leaking after that, then I'd say it's defective and needs to be replaced and I'd call Howerton.
#424
mp5999 , I put my system in but did not have time to flow test etc and I was in the same boat as you. "Limp mode" with system off.
The bad part about using the fail safe over boost is that it is a normally open contact (N.O) , when the system gets power it closes that contact and you run fine and don't have an issue. If you hit high boost it opens and saves you.....
Well I ended up taking that part out and hooking my wires back up due to the fact that if the controller fails you will be stuck in limp mode.
just my .02
The bad part about using the fail safe over boost is that it is a normally open contact (N.O) , when the system gets power it closes that contact and you run fine and don't have an issue. If you hit high boost it opens and saves you.....
Well I ended up taking that part out and hooking my wires back up due to the fact that if the controller fails you will be stuck in limp mode.
just my .02