Im coming from an 03 sentra spec-v where all i had to use to fool emissions for a completely cat-less exhaust was o2 spacers. I know the cel light for r56 can be "coded out" with a tune, but does that mean it the monitors do not set? Or can i actually go through emissions cat-less as long as i have the tune in this thing?

The reason i ask is because i am thinking of doing at least a few mods for now just to give the mini a little bump in power. I want to do down pipe, intercooler, dv, and tune, then maybe move on to something else in the future, but from what ive read, those mods ive chosen seem to be a good starting point and should get me close if not over the 200hp mark correct? Please feel free to educate me if need be.

Also, i was thinking of doing the physical mods first, then the tune. Or should i go the opposite route?

 

From what I understand, the tune just disables the light. At emissions testing you will get the 'not ready' or 'not accepted' code, which usually fails the test.


You should do the mods first, then get the tune. Then it can be optimized for your setup.


Swapping out the DP isn't fun, but once you've done it, you can determine if it is worth pulling it (and the tune) for the emissions test.


Have fun,
Mike

 

This gives me two more questions:

1)How do I pull the tune?

2) Once its gone, if i want to re-tune will I need to take it back to the tuner and re-pay to have it tuned?


The tune I am looking at doing is the manic-tune, seems they have a location in phoenix that does it.

 

I'm pretty sure the Manic tune will disable the light and have you pass emissions testing, but only if your state does OBDII emissions testing. Something about feeding the emissions module a different RPM or something. Someone more educated than me can explain it. If they do "sniff tests" or visual inspections you'll obviously need a catted downpipe. If you are still concerned about the check engine light still a guy on here makes catless downpipes that won't throw a code because they are pre-spaced. His name is Mario (username: MarioKart) and you can talk to him about getting one. I have one myself and it's a great piece of kit but agreed with the above, putting it is is a pain. Not hard, just time consuming.

I went stage 1 on the manic tune first and now I have the hardware to go stage 2. If you go that route you will need to pay to get it reflashed, but the shop will usually give you a discount because Manic offers discounts on return customers. I'd recommend just getting all the hardware done first and going right to stage 2 though if that's what you want to do. Also, instead of a diverter valve, get a cold air intake, that's what Manic wants you to have for stage 2.

If you are just looking for a small bump in power though for 200hp stage 1 should get you there or close, and that can be run bone stock.

 

Ok, cool thanks for all the great info, ive run across lots of good things said about mariokart in things that ive read so far......so if i do these mods and swap the dv for intake what kind of numbers are we looking at? I basically want to make sure shes fun but stay safe on stock internals.

 

Manic quotes somewhere around 200 for stage 1 and around 220 for stage 2. YMMV due to region, weather, hardware, mileage, ect.

 

I don't think you need a cold air intake unless you want. I went bought the Stage 1 JCW CAI to satisfy the Manic stage 2. No regrets but I think I could've saved money and just installed a high flow dry panel filter to satisfy the tune:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/dry-pan...-cooper-s.html

 

And nobody has trouble with the stock dv at higher boost levels? Does it peak and hold like it should, without leaking?

 

I have not problems with mine at Stage 1. I don't even think I have a stage 2 option with an N18 manual. GFB's only works with automatic.

 

What is GFB?

 

Go Fast Bits. They make a Diverter Valve upgrade, the only one for the N18 I believe. But like I said, only works with automatic.

 

GFB is Go Fast Bits....they make an aftermarket Diverter valve

I'm running stock turbo and diverter with manic stage 2. No problems holding boost. I've just downloaded Torque Pro today and I got a max of 16 psi around the neighborhood. I'll see soon as I'm curious to see the max boost on the B map.

 

Ahh got it

 

I went and bought the Forge diverter valve for the Manic 2+ tune that I run. I like how fast it reacts, pretty much instantaneously. It works for N18 manual. I also think it's beefier than the stock one; if you take apart the stock diverter valve and compare to the Forge, the Forge valve is clearly going to hold up better.
This is the one I have: https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2723932/
Mario also did my tune, and I couldn't be happier with his service. I wish I knew about his downpipes when he did the tune; I would have bought from him.

 

Sounds like you have a great set up with the tune and forge.

 

So i think i might be ordering an intake this weekend...any recommendations?

 

As far as I've seen the AEM one is the only true "cold air" intake unless you reposition the intake entirely. I have the NM engineering one and it makes the turbo noise much louder and I love it. Up to you really.

 

Running the ECS CF intake , stock JCW tune. True CAI. Uses the stock inlet pipe from the front corner

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-intake.html

 

For the record, the days of a 'Cold Air' intake making more power than a clean stock air filter are over. Manufacturers are under such pressure to increase fuel efficiency that they do not design intakes that choke airflow to the engine.