Drivetrain New clutch/flywheel
#26
Our Mini is still at the dealer. I will not be letting the dealer do the work because they said no warranty on clutch, so they will not tear it down. I was driving it when the clutch went out. I shifted into 3rd gear, there was a sound like something broke and then no I coasted to a stop. No forward or reverse movement after that.
#27
Our Mini is still at the dealer. I will not be letting the dealer do the work because they said no warranty on clutch, so they will not tear it down. I was driving it when the clutch went out. I shifted into 3rd gear, there was a sound like something broke and then no I coasted to a stop. No forward or reverse movement after that.
#28
#29
#30
I never had a chance to look it over as it went from the side of the road to the dealer. The dealer said it needs a new clutch, but did not take it apart. The dealer we bought it from in July has agreed to buy the parts and as of now I plan to do the work. But I will do a complete inspection.
Last edited by grussell; 09-24-2016 at 06:14 PM.
#31
Here is some good background information on your year and model clutch and flywheel, along with an explanation of the dual mass and an application guide.
Please take a look and let us know if you have any questions!
Plus, welcome to NAM and please post some pix.
http://new.minimania.com/Search_Resu...clutch/default
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
Please take a look and let us know if you have any questions!
Plus, welcome to NAM and please post some pix.
http://new.minimania.com/Search_Resu...clutch/default
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
#34
I got our MINI home yesterday. The dealer had it for 9 weeks for the thermostat replacement. They paid for the rental car though. I thought I would replace the clutch myself. I had watched the video of the guy that did a write up and thought I could do it, but the All4 is a different animal. The rear drive shaft and complete exhaust from the down tube has to be removed and the front end and subframe have to come off which is a big job. So I am having an independent shop do it for me. Ended up getting a Valeo clutch kit and a Sachs DM flywheel.
#36
Decided to do the job myself this afternoon. I am 5 hours into it and didn't have big enough wrenches to remove the front driveshaft nut at the transfer case and no place open to buy them. Once the driveshaft is off I am probably an hour from having the transmission on the ground. Here are a few pictures showing where I am with the tear down. The red straps will hold the front end up when I drop the sub-frame.
#37
All finished replacing the clutch. That was a big job with no reference material for the All4. The driveshaft removal was a pain in the ****. Then the transfer box has to be detached to get to a bell housing bolt, but can't be removed until the transmission is pulled away from the engine. It all went back together in about half the time it took to get apart. Surprisingly, the transmission went back on the engine first try.
#39
#40
clutch flywheel
Wow, great job! You turned that around really fast. I am assuming you are up to speed on how much fluid is required. Here's an application guide if you would like some backup:
http://new.minimania.com/Search_Resu...on%20fluid/All
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
http://new.minimania.com/Search_Resu...on%20fluid/All
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
#41
#43
I'm assuming that's the factory disc? I'm surprised to see an unsprung hub on an OEM clutch disc. Maybe that explains the dual-mass flywheel use then.
All finished replacing the clutch. That was a big job with no reference material for the All4. The driveshaft removal was a pain in the ****. Then the transfer box has to be detached to get to a bell housing bolt, but can't be removed until the transmission is pulled away from the engine. It all went back together in about half the time it took to get apart. Surprisingly, the transmission went back on the engine first try.
#44
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