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First of all FTW is ft/lb and in/lb? Get a clue and these people sells fasteners our lives depends on.
"Torque the stud itself between 22 & 25 ft/lbs (24 ft/lbs / 288 in/lbs / 32 Nm) into the hub."
I used the double nut method to tighten the studs into the wheel hub, and I could tell they fokked up the torque unit. What gives it away is "DO NOT OVER TORQUE ! This is only “hand tight” and is normal !" I am very sure they intended 24 in-lb rather than 24 ft-lb and soon the intended torque is lost in translation by some idiot.
I could not get the double-nut to lock for anywhere near 24 ft-lb. So I triple check the instruction. And they said it is hand tight which contradicts 24 ft-lb. 24 ft-lb is *** tight, not hand tight.
Further, if you purchase the hex head, there is no way that tiny 5mm socket head end of the stud can take 24 ft-lb.
Oh, and they shipped me 1 stud short because of a busted bag.
It may seem that my raging fit is overreacting. It is not a trivial error. A 12x over torque is very serious, and that may very well be the cause of wheel falling off at high speed. I had enough close calls that I take this seriously.
So I thought I would do a bit of digging as I am under the impression Apex is a German brand. I found this Swiss site with the online instruction, and they show the guy using this tiny 5mm socket head wrench. It says tighten by hand and does not give a torque, which means hand tight only. In step 4 the 120 Nm is for when you tighten the nuts after the wheel is mounted.
So the 65 Mini Cooper S Mk I didn't sell at $24,750 because of reserve not met. Someone commented early when the first bid of $24,500 was tossed in early that it was suspicious. Now I can see his point. If you know the reserve you can ask someone to put in a bid below the reserve to sucker in some bids. You know you will not be forced to buy it and out the auction fee because you are below the reserve.
On the other hand, this 1966 Mustang Shelby GT350R Tribute Pace Car was bid to $63.5k and not sold either. I am pretty surprise a tribute car has such high reserve.
Mine must be an older design they carried and doesn’t have the hex socket. I installed them with the double nut method and I don’t recall there being a torque. So far, so good. I also bought a 5 stud per wheel set so I have a spare stud set.
What torqued me is I didn't suspect the instruction being wrong until I had struggled to install 15 studs. With the experience of following the excellent Wilwood BBK install instruction which I followed to the T despite my discomfort with the torque on the caliper retaining nuts that appeared to be too high. Also when you are accustomed to 90 ft-lb wheel lug torque, 24 ft-lb seemed reasonable until you try to do it with double-nut method (BTW, I never like double nut method and only use it as a mean of last resort). Double nut works well, however to prevent the primary nut from undoing. I might actually use double nut for my front wheel as I drive the wheels off Desire.
Live and learn, and always ready to question the experts and I failed miserably this time. Little did I suspect an instruction from the "manufacturer" can be grossly wrong that had been written by some ignorant idiot that has no business with writing fastener instruction. Wilwood's installation instruction was written by a competent ME, but not these overpriced fasteners that were made in China for $0.60 max each.
I did considered buying the M12 5 stud set but for some reason went with minimum cash outlay. I should had bought the extra set as spare especially with this unpleasant experience. You were very smart to had done that.
Not too long ago I had a forum spar with someone that stated as a matter of fact K&N filters fail to filter as well as OEM paper counterpart. I disagreed based on common sense. At the time I had not established first hand experience how their oiled cotton gauze filters perform. I had a OE form fit model in use, but have not yet remove it for inspection and cleaning. Today I took advantage with the cooler morning to do just that.
The down side that I have read about is oil from the filter getting on the air-mass meter (I think - sorry) and it goofs up its reading. But others have said that was because they were over-oiled. I have had success in the R56 with the OEM paper ones and changing them every year. The air filter box on the R56 is different and seals really well.
Do you think you have a performance gain? I would expect to have none on the R56 as the ECU limits the boost. As long as boost is there then the filter shouldn’t make a difference. But I would think the R53 could have a change in performance from better air flow. Maybe not noticeable, though.
The little amount of oil on these filters is trivial compare to the oil vapor the intake sees from PVC. The most telling is the oil condensed in the Gen 1 S's intercooler. The intercooler does a good job of condensing the oil and it sits inside it. It is proof that it fouls the air flow sensor is old wives tale. In Gen 1 engine intake air mass is measure via pressure transducer. You cannot foul up the MAP sensor, within reason.
Desire's fall semester starts in just a few days. Like a good parent I use the long weekend to make sure she would be ready for school. There is a long list of things to check and worn supplies to replace. For the rear end the list includes increasing the rebound damping, install brass caliper bushings, replace rotors and new brake pads. I already increased the rear sway bar stiffness one more step to full stiff, to get a little more rotation.
popped the caliper to replace the brake pads, rotor, and install the brash bushings
While they like to tout the benefits of the brass bushing, amount them is it keep the caliper from skewing. I am skeptical of this point. The reason is with the flexy rubber bushing the pads have no sign of wedging. What I found is they almost always develop uneven pad wear among the pads. There is no consistency to which one wear more however. My main hope with the brass bushings is that they slide better resulting in less pad drag. The bushing does next to nothing to keep the caliper from twisting. That is the job done by the pad ears riding on the two cast iron rails on the caliper bracket.
removing the rubber bushing is easy with a blunt flat blade screwdriver
these rubber bushings are incredible resilient; they are original OE and has no sign of deterioration
the bushing just slips into the bore; I would had like it tighter
removed the caliper bracket so the rotor may be replaced
snap rings keep the bushing in place
rather than installing the super spendy Raybestos ST-45 pads these Hawk pads that I got for pennies go in in case the bushings does not work well; I noticed the Hawk pads skip the big spring at the edge; for a moment I thought may be they intend you to transfer the old one over but I decided it is not necessary for track focus car
happiness in school for Desire is all new brakes
here is a complete view of the caliper sporting the brass bushings; I coated the stainless steel slider pins with some engine oil to lubricate them against the bushings' bore
the aim is to get the rear end stuff done before the sun clocks over and the shade disappears
This is the main reason the OE rubber guide bushing does not result in badly askew (or *** skewed ) pad wear on the floating calipers. The guide pins and the bushings does keep the floating caliper more the less true WRT the fixed caliper bracket. However, as soon as you touch the brake what control the trueness of the pads are these four guide rails on the bracket.
The main reason that I finally decided to try the brass bushing is to reduce pad drag. The rubber bushings work pretty well except the guide pins don't really slide on the bushings. Rather than allowing the pins to slide, the rubber bushings stretch and compress to be compliant to the minute movements of brake on and off. The pins do move WRT the rubber bushing as the pads wear over time.
Reducing pad drag on race track keep the pad and rotor temperature lower, and that is my main goal in trying out the brass bushings. If you live in snow belts with salted roads I think a street car is better off with the tried and true rubber bushings. They do a very good job of protecting the guide pin from corrosion or seized to a metal bushing.
I would admit that when I decided to buy that M7 strut tower brace I was still a bit uneasy. I had a few concerns. One of which is the need to remove the bar to service the air filter, and may be even for oil and oil filter change. Repetitive removal and fastening of steel bolts on aluminum thread have a tendency to bugger up the soft metal thread. Would this be the Achille's heel of the M7 bar?
Today is the first time I remove the cross bar of the M7 brace in order to service the K&N air filter. I had been able to perform oil and oil filter change without removing the cross bar.
the left side witness marks show no sign that the slotted holes of the cross bar has moved
the right side witness marks also show no sign that the slotted holes of the cross bar has moved
no sign of aluminum transfer to the stainless steel socket head bolts
no sign of galling of the aluminum threads
I had never noticed the change of planes on the under side of the cross bar until today
there is very little bend on the bar across the span
only about 5/8" of rise across the span
So there you have it. The M7 strut tower brace is very stout for what it is designed for, and now I can be totally at ease for periodic removal of the cross bar to service the air filter.
Note to self: all the M7 strut brace's bolts are to be torqued to 35 ft-lb. This does not include the three nuts of the strut top perch. They are torqued to 25 ft-lb.
Interesting, the instruction photo was taken from a Pepper White Mini! M7 has taste .
I was checking my YT videos for "analytics". I never want to partake in any commercial or chicken sh1+ click bait rewards. I long since realize video generally is not worth my time except just for the small core group that care about driving. I seldom to mix in audio and if I do I learnt to use royalty free work.
I saw this video of mine being flagged as copyright claimed. WTF? I thought. Could it be the car owner didn't want me to show the plate number on the track as YT provides the time segment of the copyright claim.
Looking more carefully to see what the claim is all about, I saw Base79 Sports (Base79/3) is the claimant. A right click to do a google search came back with these hits.
Just scanning the excerpts you can infer it is one of those scum bottom dwellers that trolling the internet for hollow copyright claims. It has nothing to do with anyone that partook the track event that day, not the billboards or PIR. That is google and ABC for you. I am not going to waste my time disputing with YT on this. These trolls has no knowledge if I am "monetizing" on these track video. This is the same reason that with my Blogger blog I elected from the outset not to let google place adverts. I just want a free host for my blog and so far that have been working out very well.
Just because the said claimant Base79 Sports (Base79/3) appears like the infamous Base79 in the search hits it is likely not. Think criminal mind . Life would be too boring without these scums and scum tech giants.
Curiosity kills a cat. I decided to go through the dispute process to find out. I have read about how these trolls abuse YT's copyright claim to access the owner's confidential information such as name, address, and contact information and sure enough this is what the dispute steps entails.
Every step YT wants to discourage you from continue the dispute, and reveal nothing about the claimant's true ID. I would be very foolish to reveal mine. That is ABC for you and keep drinking the free coolaid.
Wow, a scam every second. So sad that so much of the world can’t be trusted.
What happens if you don’t dispute the claim?
And, why would anyone (not “you” in particular - changed wording so as to not point a finger at you as that wasn’t my intent) believe any of their personal information if they gave it as you asked? It seems that YT gives them the advantage. From they way i see it, they have offered up no proof that the content is copyrighted. In this country, they have to prove you did something wrong; you don’t have to prove that you didn’t do something wrong.
Or did I miss something in that whole discussion?
Last edited by Eddie07S; 09-02-2019 at 01:05 PM.
Reason: Edited Post to be more global
apex directions say to use a light amount of threadlocker. After one came off on me I now use liberal amounts and I over torque them on the hub, they will NOT come off now, in fact I have to torch the hub to get them off. They had one chance at killing me, wont happen again!
On the K&N topic, I had one on my m3 and I did find dust post filter. That soured them for me and I stick to amsoil dry filter in both my r53s, easy to mod a S airbox to accept one.
Wow, a scam every second. So sad that so much of the world can’t be trusted.
What happens if you don’t dispute the claim?
And, why would anyone (not “you” in particular - changed wording so as to not point a finger at you as that wasn’t my intent) believe any of their personal information if they gave it as you asked? It seems that YT gives them the advantage. From they way i see it, they have offered up no proof that the content is copyrighted. In this country, they have to prove you did something wrong; you don’t have to prove that you didn’t do something wrong.
Or did I miss something in that whole discussion?
In my case not to dispute the claim probably noting happen and so is to dispute. There is nothing to monetize in my track video as there would never be over 100 views. In real infringement cases such the right holder can demand a take down. If you receive too many take down requests YT will ban you.
YT's copyright claim process is lopsided and the requirement to provide your name etc is likely for legal proceeding reasons. There has been cases of false claims that resulted in the victim being held ransom or hacked. DCMA is one major development that weakens the doctrine of fair use.
In some of my early videos I use copied right sound track and they are flagged by YT. What YT does is to identify the right owner and work and enjoys a cut. I was never notified of any of these except I notice they were flagged as "copyright claim".
apex directions say to use a light amount of threadlocker. After one came off on me I now use liberal amounts and I over torque them on the hub, they will NOT come off now, in fact I have to torch the hub to get them off. They had one chance at killing me, wont happen again!
On the K&N topic, I had one on my m3 and I did find dust post filter. That soured them for me and I stick to amsoil dry filter in both my r53s, easy to mod a S airbox to accept one.
I did note carefully what they say about just a little loctite but I know little would not be sufficient. I apply what I judge to be adequate. I found that by overtorquing the stud to hub torque it would not be tighter. The reason is you run out of thread to thread engagement and not creating any additional friction. The loctite is what prevent it from undoing. When I noted this I suspected they fok'ed up on the torque value.
The red Mini that I run with had front wheel came off twice at high speed. Now he has Porsche's pressed in studs. He said from GT3, which I infer from older GT3.
Unfortunately the pilot of the Red Baron does not wrench his R53. He relies on his shop in Spokane to do all for him. The shop is very well regarded as they built BMW and Mini race cars. I infer it is just Porsche OE M14 press in studs used in older GT3. You know the old fashion interference fit spline studs. He told me the early one came loose too, but now they are staying put. I have a feeling they drill out the holes by trial and error dimension-wise and pressed fit the studs with a hydraulic press.
Notwithstanding, I kicked his *** in the most recent club days.
Actually, you could probably use any press-in stud. You would have bore the threads out no matter what studs you use and you could put any 14mm or 5/8” studs, know, 12mm on a R53, but you could do with the added strength if you are changing things.
exactly. I think class 10.9 is always 10.9, no matter Porsche or BMW. Not being an ME or seasoned machinist our challenge is how big a hole to drill for the stud to stay in place.
08-30-2019, 08:16 PM
Bound by mathematics. 
) pad wear on the floating calipers. The guide pins and the bushings does keep the floating caliper more the less true WRT the fixed caliper bracket. However, as soon as you touch the brake what control the trueness of the pads are these four guide rails on the bracket.
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. Life would be too boring without these scums and scum tech giants.
