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almost all of the events around here are offline points, whatever side that might be it is the passers requirement to go offline and make a clean pass. The person being passed needs to get onto the "school line" point by and lift. The fiat pointed wrong side, then correct side, did not lift (I was flat foot and not gaining). It was the 2nd straight he had done that to me! I just pulled the data, we were going over 90 at the time he spun.
SCCA events are a cluster F, bunch of racers running HPDE, having passing either side, unpredictable ****, I REALLY do not like events ran like that, and it seems like it's always old time W2W racers running them. HPDE needs to be predictable & safe!!!!
Have either of you used track attack.io website/app? I just set it up, my friend runs an AIM data logger and I run racecapture, a few clicks (import, share) and we were able to see each others data in the app. Within a few seconds I see where I can gain some speed, it's an amazing tool if you can collaborate with peers at the same track.
On all accounts of what you said above. (Edit - post 2121)
Not sure about the HF welder, though. Although I have no basis for saying that except I find their stuff to be pretty hit or miss. A welder is big enough bucks and it needs to perform. I have thought to go with the Lincoln or Hobart, 220v (just because I can ) just to get the assurance that it will perform. I have found over the years, that if I don’t go oversized on things like that, I always wind up wishing I had. Most of the time you can use “big” where “small” will do OK, but you can’t very well use “small” where “big” is needed.
If you do get the HF welder, I hope to be reading a full account of it...
I paid an arm and a leg for first gen prosumer Lincoln MIG. Now they are a lot cheaper as they are all made in Asia just like HF and countless other brands. Mine is 120V but the main difference of the 220V is just a different modular power cord and wired to the 220V winding tap.
Fast forward to now, the lesser brands like HF looks to be very good. I am sure the same design are sold under many different brands that can be found on Amazon and the other usual suspects. One other thing that gives me pause is the need to get and store another gas cylinder. TIG needs argon.
One thing about MIG welder though is you want to make sure the wire transport is well made. TIG however, has no wire feeding transport so much less things to go wrong.
I regret for not jumping on a set of Nitto NT01s. They were cheaper than, yes, when you see that limited time promotional rebate. What gave me pause was the deterioration of tire rubber. By that I am not referring to the internet common wisdom of under 10 year our are ok, and a minute over you are bound to crash and burn.
I don't even just take track enthusiasts discussions on auto forums at face value. What I rely on is my own nose. I noticed with freshly arrived new rubbers they are very pungent. Obviously the pungent odor is from outgasing. In only a couple of weeks the odor subsided substantially. There are many possible explanations. One that come to mind is perhaps the smell is more from the mold release agent rather than the rubber compound deteriorating right in front of my eyes nose. My other thought is the shinny new set of R compound tires that you pick up at peak price early in the driving season is very likely old stock from the prior season.
So my thought is with the driving season coming to an end, it pays to plan ahead and start to snap up some sticky donuts for Desire's next season track snacks.
I just realize one thing I can do for self help. Go check and log the dates on all my tires worn, or new WRT their purchase dates.
I paid an arm and a leg for first gen prosumer Lincoln MIG. Now they are a lot cheaper as they are all made in Asia just like HF and countless other brands. Mine is 120V but the main difference of the 220V is just a different modular power cord and wired to the 220V winding tap.
Fast forward to now, the lesser brands like HF looks to be very good. I am sure the same design are sold under many different brands that can be found on Amazon and the other usual suspects. One other thing that gives me pause is the need to get and store another gas cylinder. TIG needs argon.
One thing about MIG welder though is you want to make sure the wire transport is well made. TIG however, has no wire feeding transport so much less things to go wrong.
I picked up a HF vulcan 220 multi function and I have no complains, I only use it for mig but I'm thinking about getting another tank so I can TIG aluminum, it's AC but good enough for what I need
I picked up a HF vulcan 220 multi function and I have no complains, I only use it for mig but I'm thinking about getting another tank so I can TIG aluminum, it's AC but good enough for what I need
I am depressed after watching this video. I only realize how steep is the learning curve of welding AL. I will not save any money making my own GP TMIC as for sure I would trash a few before having one that is barely useable.
welding is art IMO, my welds are ugly and sometimes need grinding but they are functional. I do not weld very often, last night I welded 2 brackets for driving lights (tail of the dragon at night = FUN). I think I have a total of 30 seconds of welding this month! The welder has paid for itself with exhaust work and trailer modifications.
welding is art IMO, my welds are ugly and sometimes need grinding but they are functional. I do not weld very often, last night I welded 2 brackets for driving lights (tail of the dragon at night = FUN). I think I have a total of 30 seconds of welding this month! The welder has paid for itself with exhaust work and trailer modifications.
I weld very rarely and each time setting up the welder for different gauge steel is a new chapter. I don't call mine welding. More like piling on layers of slag. Strength in number, I figure. Welding the O2 sensor bung onto the stock SS manifold was one challenging job due to to great disparity between the manifold and the bung thickness. And a 4" grinder is a mandatory tool also to shape the layers of slag.
Welding is one of those things you have to waste a lot of metal to get good at. Practicing on things that you rather not waste is the challenge or us.
I do most everything by brazing. Little setup required. But then again, what I have done has not been at all structural. I have done steel, SS and aluminum with what I would call success.
I do most everything by brazing. Little setup required. But then again, what I have done has not been at all structural. I have done steel, SS and aluminum with what I would call success.
Interesting that you can braze AL and SS. Oxy acetylene is one of those equipment that I'd always wanted but never owned.
I am a fearless DIYer and there is few things that I dare not tackle. Doing this. Call me Freemason.
just small concrete work so I hand mixed
I took down the fence to make room for the car trailer; now just re-erect it farther back
Actually, I use propane and O2. This works with the same torches and gages, and produces a hotter and more concentrated flame than Acetylene and O2. Acetylene produces a carbon rich zone in the flame that is good for welding steel but not needed for brazing. SS is brazed with a nickel-silver flux coated rod. Al is done with an Al brazing rod. The last I used was flux coated, but I have seen nonflux coated rod for Al. I use MAPP gas for thin Al as it is really easy to melt the Al and then it is time to start over. MAPP runs cooler than an O2 flame. Problem that I have found with Al is that it anneals when heated and becomes really soft. Not sure how to get around that and I would think that would be a problem with TIG welding Al, also.
This has to be the only investment in cars that return in handsome profit; A 1997 Acura Integra Type R. Per the window sticker the owner paid $32,100 $23,100 back then. Adjusted for inflation it is $36,900 today's dollar. It sold for $82,000 on BAT, more than double the original price.
Last edited by pnwR53S; 09-28-2019 at 09:11 AM.
Reason: damn math
But not the only one. In 1973 I test drove a ‘69 Z28 Camero that was really nicely optioned out, including rear disk brakes and the console gage package. Today that car is pushing 6 figures and has been for a long time. The price I was looking to pay was $1600. It is just as well I didn’t buy it. I live in the NE and it would have rusted away to nothing in another 3 years. Who back then thought that car would be worth anything today. I would have kicked my self if it had rotted out under my care.
I know. American muscle cars have had their ups and downs over the recent decades, and now the historical significant ones are fetching very high prices. Even the tribute cars that are done right. This Acura caught my eyes as it is an ugly a duckling as they get. There were a few very high bids from the get go and many season commenters were crying foul, suspecting they were the seller's cheat with the knowledge of the hidden reserve.
Obviously the bidders really have emotional attachment to this car. You can pick up a very nice alternative that are better in every way for the winning bid.
There were a few very high bids from the get go and many season commenters were crying foul, suspecting they were the seller's cheat with the knowledge of the hidden reserve.
This is why I did not buy from them when a 67 MK1 Mini was up for bid in Salem. I went to see the car and felt that it wasn't really represented well. Some of the flaws that were said to "original" to the car seemed to not be original to me. And don't get me started on the factory installed JCW kit on an early 2004 S. It's a fun site to look at but I would never buy there.
I do most everything by brazing. Little setup required. But then again, what I have done has not been at all structural. I have done steel, SS and aluminum with what I would call success.
Its been so long ago that I did some brazing that I totally forgot. I did extensive body rust repairs in high school at those rent a bay by the hour and rented their oxy acetylene. I would also try to save some money and bought a precursor of the current O2 + propane consumer toy brazing equipment. Back then there were no tiny disposable consumer O2 cartridges. The same company had a O2 + propane kit similar to the present one, except the O2 gas is generated from burning of a black stick made of mystery chemical compound. The sticks came in a tin can and quite expensive. Each stick lasted only may be 8 minutes and produced very little O2 together who knows what else as it is exothermic reaction.
Solid Ox
I had one. Oh, what a mess that was. The O2 filter would get clogged with the smoke that mystery stick would give off and the pressure would build up and pop the hose holder off the burn cylinder. That was a royal pain...
I also had the little Burzomatic O2 and Propane small cylinder setup. But as you noted, neither lasted very long; in a range of minutes. Now I have a 2500 psi O2 tank and 20# propane tank.
Solid Ox
I had one. Oh, what a mess that was. The O2 filter would get clogged with the smoke that mystery stick would give off and the pressure would build up and pop the hose holder off the burn cylinder. That was a royal pain...
I also had the little Burzomatic O2 and Propane small cylinder setup. But as you noted, neither lasted very long; in a range of minutes. Now I have a 2500 psi O2 tank and 20# propane tank.
OMG. We were the victims of the same crap product. Yes the hose would pop, and so is the cap with the crap o-ring. Those were the days to look back with fondness of our perseverance. I used to go get German ford parts at the mercury dealer and the parts clerks always treated me with contempt, because he hated imports. I knew one day I would know more about automobiles than he would ever despite of that is his profession.
After the supercharger mishap I concluded that Desire's track driving for the year is over. I could not get to all four bolts for the SC outlet flange to make sure they are adequately tight without removing the front end and may including the SC as the intake manifold is immediately above it. That is Mini's packaging. I swapped out the racing wheels and brake pads to prepare Desire for the winter for street duties. I even removed the racing numbers as they are quite soiled.
Desire has been running incredible well and the ride is superb despite the track focus suspension.
This weekend I decided to try harder to access the SC outlet flange bolts. It turned out I could get to two more bolts with 1/4" drive sockets with u-joint adapter to deal with the severe angles. As I suspected they were not that loose. I tighten them up the best I could without risking stripping the heads. This open up the possibility for more track days.
Any attempt to access the 4th remaining bolt will require removing the fuel rail and injectors and I was not willing to do that.
I signed Desire up for 2 more unplanned track days as the weather outlook is great albeit quite cold. Desire is thrilled.
09-24-2019, 09:36 AM
) just to get the assurance that it will perform. I have found over the years, that if I don’t go oversized on things like that, I always wind up wishing I had. Most of the time you can use “big” where “small” will do OK, but you can’t very well use “small” where “big” is needed.
My other thought is the shinny new set of R compound tires that you pick up at peak price early in the driving season is very likely old stock from the prior season.
Strength in number, I figure. 
