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Drivetrain Aftermarket Clutch Break-In Period...?

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  #26  
Old 04-26-2005, 05:22 PM
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Thanks for the update Mike. I've put in about 260 miles on my Spec Stage 2/Fidanza flywheel. The first thing I noticed was that it took the full stroke of the pedal to allow first gear engagement. It took getting used to and occasionally caused some unwanted gear grinding because I didn't disengage enough. I'm not sure if this is similar to what you experienced but I hope it gets better. I haven't run into not being able to shift but have a little concern as I'm using the full stroke and no room left for expansion. There is no clutch smell although the Stage 2 is Kevlar composit. It engages very similarly to stock...maybe a little stickier but I have no problem coping. I do like that diesel chatter while idling. Can't really hear it in the car except when I stick my head under the hood.


I've also have the Quaife and noticed a unique whirling gear noise with the window down. Has anyone noticed this?
 
  #27  
Old 04-26-2005, 05:34 PM
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when I had my lightweight FW put in along with the Quaife, the gears would rattle while in neutral, due to the loss of the stock fw dampener. sounds like a hincky throwout bearing. Unfortunately, a dowel pin on the F/W let loose and passed through the bell housng into the trans, totalling it

then I put in a Sachs clutch; that started slipping after 2-3000 easy hiway miles, later found to be due to a bad pressure plate spring.

Now I have the Spec stage 2 and stock F/W; no regrets.

fyi: my tranny has been pulled 4 times, the last time by me personally
 
  #28  
Old 04-26-2005, 06:20 PM
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That's interesting...my stock clutch doesn't have any dampers Does your stage 2 require extra pedal travel? Does your Quaife make that whirling noise I reported?

As a aside...why the 500 mile break-in and how are you suppose to break it in? Thanks:smile:
 
  #29  
Old 04-26-2005, 06:33 PM
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no quaife noise that I have heard;
the stage 2 grips up high and fully dis-engages with ease; after getting used to it, it is fine.
My understanding is that the kevlar adhesive needs to bed in, by heat cycling in situ.

the dampener is in the stock S flywheel; a few have added clutch discs with torsional anti-****** springs when using the non-damped lightweight fw
 

Last edited by jlm; 04-26-2005 at 06:38 PM.
  #30  
Old 04-27-2005, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MSFITOY
The first thing I noticed was that it took the full stroke of the pedal to allow first gear engagement.
Try bleeding the clutch line again with a pressure bleeder. Because it is vertical it may be tough to get all of the air out.
 
  #31  
Old 04-27-2005, 06:49 AM
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i believe you have to clamp the actuating rod all the way in while bleeding the slave cylinder
 
  #32  
Old 05-24-2005, 02:40 AM
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I just put the spec 2 with flywheel in with a new slave cylinder. I tried compressing the slave and a pressure bleeder, but no dice. The only thing that has worked for me is to use a vacuum bleeder at about 15 hg. Create vacuum then open the bleeder, close the bleeder. Now pump the clutch peddle about 30 times. It takes a while to build pressure again. Keep the fluid topped off. Repeat until no air comes out.

I have the stage 2 with sprung hub and there is no chatter. Infact I think it idles smoother and quieter. It revs up so smooth and fast now, it is unreal. It pulls like it is in a lower gear. The peddle pressure is like stock, but it does engage pretty late. I haven't broken in the clutch yet, but I think the flywheel is my favorite mod so far.

The only problem I'm having is some weird vibration when engine braking above 3500rpm. I can't tell if it's from the tranny or maybe a tool I left in the engine compartment. I've done that before. Anyway does anyone else with a light flywheel have this as well?

One last thing, The throwout bearing and pressure plate have the same part numbers on them as stock.
 
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