Ok so i am seeing alot of conflicting info on a lot of our sponsors websites and even ARP's own garbage site. Here is the problem, i have an n18 LCI (october 2011 build) that i am trying to purchase ARP Rod Bolts for but there are 2 part numbers listed as being compatible with my car. Most shops such as WMW, for example, either dont list the part number or it's one of 2 numbers. Can anyone chime in with the correct number or can verify on their own vehicle which were used?

Part numbers: 206-6008 or 201-6305

 

Their "garbage site" lists 201-6305 as N12 / N14 1.6L --- your N18 should be the 206-6008 set.

But I'm curious --- why rod bolts? Aftermarket rods usually come with their own bolts. If you're using OEM rods, they'll break before the bolts will. Just trying to get away from TTY bolts?

 

Going stage 2 possibly 3 and for peace of mind i'd like to have the arp bolts installed, its been recommended by many. The confusion comes from sites like outmotoring or ecs where they have the n12/14 versions and say they fit my n18.

 

ARP is highly recommended for head and crank bolt replacement, and I have them installed. I kept the aftermarket CP / Carrillo rod bolts too. Pushing well over 300WHP and OK so far.

Try calling ARP customer service and find out the differences, besides socket size.

 

If i may ask for more details regarding your comment, what would you rate, in order of importance, the necessary locations for ARP bolts? I was under impression rods were most important.

 

Yes, rod bolts are important when building a hi-performance engine. Personally, I don't consider a stage 2 or 3 high enough performance to warrant ARP rod bolts. Maybe head and crank, but only if you have it apart to make it worthwhile. Stage 2 is easily achieved with bolt-ons and most people get there without using ARP anywhere.

The tuner I use considers mine a stage 4 --- lotsa internal engine work, so I have ARP crank and head studs. CP Carrillo rods came with their own bolts. I don't remember the exact grade of bolt they use, but it's higher than OEM and adequate for their use. Remember, this is a 1.6L engine with typically less than 300WHP, not an "elephant" engine with 6 or 7L and 1000+ WHP, where ARP is probably used everywhere, exclusively.

All this is strictly my opinion. There's probably many others out there that disagree with me. Using ARP rod bolts won't hurt anything, and if you feel more comfortable using them, go for it. I'd prefer to put the dollars somewhere else.

 

I find your poignant responses refreshing and insightful as always, thank you! I'll have to ask Mario some more questions now...