Good morning everyone, I have a cooper s mini roadster (184hp) with aem intake, jcw turbocharger, reinforced diverter valve, jcw spark plugs, 63mm cat-less downpipe, aircool intercooler, all turbo silicone hoses, tuned on rpm power stage 3. I have never tested my roadster on a dyno so I don't know the exact power, but I took some times on acceleration tests and I am not very very satisfied with the results, here are some times:
60-160 km / h 9.47 seconds
60-180 km / h 12.50 seconds
100-180 km / h 9.40 seconds
100-200 km / h 14.40 seconds
100-220 km / h 19.20 seconds.
What I want to ask you is, Are my times in line with other minis that have similar configurations? With these times revealed how many horses could I have? Finally, what could I do to make my roadster go faster without replacing the turbocharger with a bigger one?

 

There are formulas you can use to calculate the bhp if you're good at arithmetic, but you'll probably need some other data apart from the ones you've posted above.

Some apps on the mobile phones can calculate the bhp like the Torque app, Perfexpert etc...

Nothing beats a few proper dyno runs.

 

Not sure it helps a lot but for comparison my supercharged 2004 with minor mods (a 15% pulley, one-ball exhaust mod and Dinan Stage 1 tune), on a dyno, pulled 202hp at the crank.

 

If these are your only mods, I don't see any that will add significant HP. Each one will aid a major mod, but by themselves, only the 63mm exhaust adds very much. I'd suggest you contact RPM and learn what each RPM stage requires, then add the mods you don't yet have. From my limited knowledge of the different stages, I'd say you're nowhere near a stage 3 build, so running a stage 3 tune with only stage 1 or 2 mods will severely limit your performance. Last time I checked with RPM, over a year ago, they didn't have a stage 4 available, still in prototype.

If you,re interested in improving the times you posted, let me suggest a lightened flywheel. Won't add HP, but the times will definitely improve.

 

With those mods & stage 3 tune won't it take the power to ~230bhp+.

 

Hello,

I have a similar setup but.. I have less than you
- Downpipe with stock exhaust
- Airtec intercooler
- Rcz R spark plugs
- JCW airbox with a KN air filter
- Inlet pipe in silicone
- Reinforced clutch from Sachs
- New HPFP just to make sure everything is running ok because N18 eat easily it :/
- JCW turbo with the new dump valve from Mini

Yeah mine is a N18 also. All the internals are full stock I am doing 1.45bars and 1.25bars stable.

As you can see on attachments 272.4BHP and 359.6 NM.

Still have some things to do: 2.5" full exhaust and put all the pipes in silicone. After that, the only thing to do without change internals is to install a methanol system to cool down intake Air temperature.

In the future: put a big turbo, forge all the internals, and the motor head

Oh forgot to mention. RPM Power remap

 

Hmmm. It may be because I drive a supercharged MINI and just don't know any better but I'm curious to know how an N18 with virtually no mods produces 272+bhp?

 

Forgot about the intercooler -_- this dyno is very realistic and motor was fully rebuild! Good eletronic, few mods and healthy motor

 

Thank you so much Subscope for your contribution.
Have you tried to take some time on 100-200 km / h?

Forgive my ignorance but I have not understood what this new hpfp is, also do you remember the code of the candles of the rcz-r?
Today I called my mechanic and he told me that they inserted an intermediate mapping on my car, so soon I will dismantle the ecu and send it to him to put the most powerful mapping.

I also have to install the 2.5 exhaust, I had considered putting a big turbo in the future but I'm afraid of the turbo lag.

 

It's good to ear feedback from other users

Well from 100-200km/h I think mine is very very similar. Never tried that before. Did you use something to test it?

Regarding spark plugs here you have the SKU NGK ILZKR8C 8G

My next mod will be a 2.5" exhaust for sure. An home made exhaust full Inox 304 eheh

Why you will reflash ecu again?

Well, bigger turbo you can do that but.. before that make sure you forge your internals . Afterwards yeah big turbo with nice pressure on that

 

To detect performance I use p-gear.
My mechanic explained to me that there are various rpm stage 3 mappings, ranging from the base, to the intermediate, up to the most performing.
I have the intermediate that should guarantee about 250 hp, so I decided to install the most powerful mapping for an estimated power of about 270 hp.

I wanted to ask you, did you notice any differences with the rcz-r candles?
I also want to put the rcz-r candles for safety can you confirm that these in the link are fine? Thank you
https://www.ebay.it/itm/Candela-acce...wAAOSw0eNdSR1x

 

Last time i checked NGK 1422 were what's recommended for anything above Stage 1. I wouldnt trust NGK from ebay sellers. I have upgraded: intercooler, exhaust, bigger turbo, ngk 1422 plugs, air intake, silicone charge and discharge pipes, ARP piston rods. My torque app indicates peak 289 hp at 3309rpm. Running RPM Stage 3

Stage 3 is only really for once you have upgraded the turbo. If you are worried about turbo lag, most turbos you can get wont really increase the lag with the exception of the GT47 turbo

 

I think OP has a stage 3 as he swapped in a JCW turbo for his S turbo and the S sensors don't read high enough so a tune compensates

Edit: the JCW plugs are also one step hotter than the ngk 1422's so that may be a limiting factor as well. I'd swap the plugs with 1422 or better and see how it runs.

 

Last i checked with RPM Tuner Mario, JCW turbos werent the best for stage 3 as they dont flow as well as a bigger k03/04 hybrid or k04 like the kind he sells. I have S sensors and I still read to 23psi.

 

Yes, it is like swapping a "stock" turbo with another "stock" turbo but a wee bit larger and more efficient. You can even do the swap without a tune at all and net some HP. But for the sake of tuning and "doing it right" even though it is the smallest increase in turbo you can do, a stage 3 is what is required as it will be mapped to the new turbo characteristics. Regarding the sensors, the S sensors aren't rated to read that high but it seems some get lucky like yourself and they do just fine. I think they "can" read but aren't "rated" to read those values so YMMV. S sensors can read to 23psi per the posts I cited below. Even with a JCW blower the stage 3 tune probably tops out at that for safety reasons.

If my stock S turbo ever went out I'd probably swap in a JCW if I could fine one for a good price, meaning cheaper than rebuilding the S with bigger than JCW internals or getting a new hybrid.

Edit: Tigger2011 can explain it way better than I can, let me dig for some posts. Here's one to start:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4486595

Edit 2: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4386206

 

Sorry I'm a little confused!
I currently have the ngk spark plugs from jcw, now i want to replace them, so which one do you recommend those rcz-r or 1422?

 

Get the NGK 1422 spark plugs

 

To be completely transparent, I have no idea nor knowledge regarding performance of JCW plugs nor that exact model number/brand of the ones you are comparing. What I do know is, NGK-1422 is multiple steps colder than a S Cooper and a step colder than JCW plugs and pretty consistent for enthusiast modifying such as Stage 3 and above. Im sure someone else can chime with a link regarding how "cold" plugs can be and the reason why it is important. I'm going to bed.

 

other than the NGK 1422,what is another brand of plug for modified cars past stage 2

 

Here's an article on spark plugs from a well-known "guru" of Mini's, at least well-known to those of us that have been on NAM for a few years. Well worth your time to read it.

https://www.motoringalliance.com/art...ark-plugs.108/

Other OEM brands include Beru and Brisk. I don't know whether or not they make a higher performance plug for our cars. From posts I've seen, NGK is the preferred brand, and 1422 is the PN recommended by Manic. I'm currently using a Heat Range 9 NGK plug, and depending on my next dyno pull, may switch to a HR 10.

 

Well didn't feel anything because I changed it for safety reasons and when did stage 3 on my car. Honestly don't know if these are the correct spark plugs. Try to search on some parts site instead eBay. It's better. For now my car is good I still need to purchase aerokit and do a full exhaust and put some silicone pipes. Afterwards I will think on forge components :p

 

The 1422s are tried and tested and are heat range 8. Higher number=colder plug. Colder plug=less chance of pre-ignition under higher levels of boost and timing advance (pre-ignition can lead to engine damage if it happens often enough). The plug is colder as more heat is transferred from the electrode to the engine block. This prevents the electrode from becoming a hot spot and causing pre-ignition which is exactly what it sounds like. The fuel is igniting before the spark plug fires--very bad.

I think its harder to get the rcz-r plugs in the US but they are also heat range 8 as far as I can google. So which ever one you can get cheaper throw them in and see how you like it.

I had stock JCW (heat range 7) plugs NGK ILZKBR7B8DG after I got stage 2 that were left over from stage 1 and had problems with it cutting boost under med-high load. This was the engine sensing bad things happening and dumping all boost/timing on me to protect itself. Since I got the 1422's I have no issues whatsoever. Yup, they make that much of a difference.

FYI the stock S plugs are beru brand and are heat range 6. If your car is not bone stock we refer to these as "complete rubbish"