Drivetrain What's your winter project?
#1
My Winter Mini Projects
Looks like a long messy winter in the mid-west. I'll have lots of time to install the JATO from M7. What's your project?
Here's where I mounted the N2O solenoid and controller:
Here are the M7 400cc injectors I took off El Diablito hands. Too small for him he says
The ON switch. I'm wondering what that's going to look like at night with all them lights flashing...Christmas Tree
EDIT 1-20-05, the ocillating/flashing light is very nice. Not too bright and very entertaining
Next, make template for MDF boot plate to mount N2O bottle and route line under chassis. Until Peter's AGS systems arrives, I'll be using the ever popular HAI system Stay tuned
What's going on in your garage?
Here's where I mounted the N2O solenoid and controller:
Here are the M7 400cc injectors I took off El Diablito hands. Too small for him he says
The ON switch. I'm wondering what that's going to look like at night with all them lights flashing...Christmas Tree
EDIT 1-20-05, the ocillating/flashing light is very nice. Not too bright and very entertaining
Next, make template for MDF boot plate to mount N2O bottle and route line under chassis. Until Peter's AGS systems arrives, I'll be using the ever popular HAI system Stay tuned
What's going on in your garage?
#3
#6
In that location I would say that the flashing lights are going to drive you mad.
I moved my indicator to the left of the tach so it wasn't so irritating.
Other than that you'll be certain to enjoy the joy juice
Be careful in extremely cold weather as the solenoid has a tendency to freeze and the nitrous flow is interrupted and the ride is very very jerky to say the least.
I moved my indicator to the left of the tach so it wasn't so irritating.
Other than that you'll be certain to enjoy the joy juice
Be careful in extremely cold weather as the solenoid has a tendency to freeze and the nitrous flow is interrupted and the ride is very very jerky to say the least.
#7
Originally Posted by CCM
In that location I would say that the flashing lights are going to drive you mad.
I moved my indicator to the left of the tach so it wasn't so irritating.
Other than that you'll be certain to enjoy the joy juice
Be careful in extremely cold weather as the solenoid has a tendency to freeze and the nitrous flow is interrupted and the ride is very very jerky to say the least.
I moved my indicator to the left of the tach so it wasn't so irritating.
Other than that you'll be certain to enjoy the joy juice
Be careful in extremely cold weather as the solenoid has a tendency to freeze and the nitrous flow is interrupted and the ride is very very jerky to say the least.
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#9
Originally Posted by minimort
Looks good MSFITOY!
Are you running the lines through the battery box?
If so, is the tank mounted on a replacement cover?
Are you running the lines through the battery box?
If so, is the tank mounted on a replacement cover?
#11
#13
Originally Posted by macncheese
Its illegal (atleast at the track) to have a nitrous bottle inside a passenger cabin without a blowdown tube. Safety first
--
Cheese
--
Cheese
Tony.
#14
Originally Posted by Ryephile
The Dragon will be the last place you'll want to use the Nitrous Especially with your stock brakes!
And why would I need NO2 at the Dragon? 210hp is plenty
BTW...why are you suppose to be bowling tonight?
#15
#16
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
Common Ryan...You KNOW I don't have stock brakes. And why would I need NO2 at the Dragon? 210hp is plenty It's I-75 south and 280hp that your worried about isn't it
BTW...why aren't you bowling tonight?
BTW...why aren't you bowling tonight?
Not worried at all with your NO2 shot on I-75, especially since you'll be up front sweeping for cops
...and you do have stock brakes, as far as stopping distances go.
#17
Originally Posted by Ryephile
Because we went bowling, and now I'm back home (6 games was enough!)
Not worried at all with your NO2 shot on I-75, especially since you'll be up front sweeping for cops
...and you do have stock brakes, as far as stopping distances go.
Not worried at all with your NO2 shot on I-75, especially since you'll be up front sweeping for cops
...and you do have stock brakes, as far as stopping distances go.
#20
Unless you've got something stickier than street tires, you can only brake as hard as the traction you have. When your ABS is going off, which everyone can manage even with "stock" brakes, you're at your vehicle's braking limit. Your larger brakes only provides improved repeat braking performance (false sense of superiority). Something you're not likely to see on the street. Nevertheless, my stock rotor size with venting and redstuff is enough to see me through most sessions short of a 2 hour track event...don't you think?
Sides...your mom says you're up past your bed time
Sides...your mom says you're up past your bed time
#21
sid you should take a ride in ryans car. the brakes will suck the eyeballs out of your head, and never hit the ABS.
last year i had my brakes glowing red hot at the dragon on the midnight run. i will have an upgrade before i go.
last year i had my brakes glowing red hot at the dragon on the midnight run. i will have an upgrade before i go.
__________________
#22
Originally Posted by agokart
sid you should take a ride in ryans car. the brakes will suck the eyeballs out of your head, and never hit the ABS.
last year i had my brakes glowing red hot at the dragon on the midnight run. i will have an upgrade before i go.
last year i had my brakes glowing red hot at the dragon on the midnight run. i will have an upgrade before i go.
#23
New Winter Project: Tangent
Can you hit ABS braking from 110MPH+?
Furthermore, the Dragon and surrounding roads are smooth and clean, not to mention have lots of rubber laid down! Braking performance is much better than you're used to here in pothole-ville, though obviously not quite as good as a clean Track. ABS is usually run into with A) poor surface and B) poor driver modulation. The higher the speed, the more torque and friction needed to stop the rotor. The stock setup simply doesn't have the torque needed for maximum high speed braking. A 2 hour track session will COOK stock brakes, regardless of pads or rotors (esp. drilled, and to a less extent, slotted, least with smooth face). Brembo OEM rotors (smooth) and Ferodo 3000's will be your best bet, but you will still hit the fade point of the Ferodo after only a few laps, let alone a half hour, and laughable at 2 hours.
This is where a quality BBK comes in. The higher weight rotor will help with fade resistance by being more temperature stable, but caliper stiffness and pad selection are also critical. Stoptech makes excellent stiffness calipers, but they are obnoxiously huge for most practical wheel setups. The Wilwood Forged Dynalite and the Outlaw 2000 are excellent race calipers, and provide a huge pad selection. I can positively fry a Wilwood T compound (rated up to 700F) on the Dragon in about 4 miles, and get an E compound (rated up to 1000F) up to the fade point after about 14 miles. The best pad for the Dragon (and Track) to date is the H compound, which not only has a huge friction coefficient, but also will withstand temps beyond the melting point of the calipers! Big rotors are only half the story. When it comes to steel/iron rotors, heavier is better for abusive applications. The rotor in the Wilwood kits aren't beefy enough to handle extensive sessions, whereas the B3 kit uses the most massive rotor of any MINI kit; you simply can't fry this kit with the right pad (well, no promises on the Nurburgring!)
Long story short (too late) Even running your 210HP config on the Dragon will end up destroying your current brake setup; you will not have any pads left before you get back home, and will have probably cracked the holes in your rotors too. But then again, that's only if you try to keep up with the big dogs Your money is better spent on a BBK and an LSD than NO2 on the Dragon and Track. My $0.02
edit - no offense whatsoever Sid; I'm sure the NO2 kit will be awesome for straight line fun! Just trying to be holistic.
Can you hit ABS braking from 110MPH+?
Furthermore, the Dragon and surrounding roads are smooth and clean, not to mention have lots of rubber laid down! Braking performance is much better than you're used to here in pothole-ville, though obviously not quite as good as a clean Track. ABS is usually run into with A) poor surface and B) poor driver modulation. The higher the speed, the more torque and friction needed to stop the rotor. The stock setup simply doesn't have the torque needed for maximum high speed braking. A 2 hour track session will COOK stock brakes, regardless of pads or rotors (esp. drilled, and to a less extent, slotted, least with smooth face). Brembo OEM rotors (smooth) and Ferodo 3000's will be your best bet, but you will still hit the fade point of the Ferodo after only a few laps, let alone a half hour, and laughable at 2 hours.
This is where a quality BBK comes in. The higher weight rotor will help with fade resistance by being more temperature stable, but caliper stiffness and pad selection are also critical. Stoptech makes excellent stiffness calipers, but they are obnoxiously huge for most practical wheel setups. The Wilwood Forged Dynalite and the Outlaw 2000 are excellent race calipers, and provide a huge pad selection. I can positively fry a Wilwood T compound (rated up to 700F) on the Dragon in about 4 miles, and get an E compound (rated up to 1000F) up to the fade point after about 14 miles. The best pad for the Dragon (and Track) to date is the H compound, which not only has a huge friction coefficient, but also will withstand temps beyond the melting point of the calipers! Big rotors are only half the story. When it comes to steel/iron rotors, heavier is better for abusive applications. The rotor in the Wilwood kits aren't beefy enough to handle extensive sessions, whereas the B3 kit uses the most massive rotor of any MINI kit; you simply can't fry this kit with the right pad (well, no promises on the Nurburgring!)
Long story short (too late) Even running your 210HP config on the Dragon will end up destroying your current brake setup; you will not have any pads left before you get back home, and will have probably cracked the holes in your rotors too. But then again, that's only if you try to keep up with the big dogs Your money is better spent on a BBK and an LSD than NO2 on the Dragon and Track. My $0.02
edit - no offense whatsoever Sid; I'm sure the NO2 kit will be awesome for straight line fun! Just trying to be holistic.
#24
#25
Winter mods for me (most of which need to be footnoted as FINALLY):
Pulley
Intake (might get creative here)
Exhaust (still not sure which)
Oil and water temp gauges
Unichip (when I figure out the first three)
Springtime will center on new tires/rims, springs and a rear adjustable swaybar and possibly adjustable control arms.
Pulley
Intake (might get creative here)
Exhaust (still not sure which)
Oil and water temp gauges
Unichip (when I figure out the first three)
Springtime will center on new tires/rims, springs and a rear adjustable swaybar and possibly adjustable control arms.