Drivetrain OBX-Racing Header Dyno Results!
#377
10-20-2005 | 08:19 AM
the exhaust is 2.5 but not all the way to the tail, its smaller into the canisters!!
Originally Posted by zrwon
OBX/Milltek would be the perfect set up since both are 2.5", someone had this done on an 05 Cabrio and posted yesterday, that might be what I'll do once I decide which header I'm using.
#379
10-20-2005 | 09:38 PM
If there are two....
Originally Posted by joker
the exhaust is 2.5 but not all the way to the tail, its smaller into the canisters!!
And horrible piece of metal? For a~$600 difference in price, I'd put up with a stud or two....
Matt
#381
10-20-2005 | 09:50 PM
A little math goes a long way...
Originally Posted by zrwon
Smaller? how much smaller and the canister are you talking about resonator or muffler?
Matt
#382
10-20-2005 | 09:51 PM
#383
10-20-2005 | 10:00 PM
Sorry, not enough info in the post.
Originally Posted by joker
"two" what?
is the second sentence directed towards me?
is the second sentence directed towards me?
The other reference was speakiing to "not being 2.5 inches all the way back". Here, when the pipes split into two, the cross sectional area of the two pipes has to be at least as much as the larger pipe.
Since I don't know you, I don't know if you're a Stud or not!
Matt
#385
10-20-2005 | 10:56 PM
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by skuzy
are u talking about this header?/
http://www.piloracing.com/shop/prodd...RHEADER&cat=22
http://www.piloracing.com/shop/prodd...RHEADER&cat=22
I will wait for the exhaust, otherwise I'll run into the same BS again.
Thanks for sharing though, now I wish I wouldn't have bought anything yet.
#387
10-21-2005 | 02:10 AM
Coordinator :: ClubMINI.ph
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Philippines
But the 2 headers aren't exactly the same, so there are other factors to consider other than the price and fitment issues. The OBX/Supersprint header is a 4-2-1 header, which means the gains are in the lower part powerband than with a 4-1. I think for the street the OBX/Supersprint would still be best, but for the track, maybe a 4-1 (Pilo, Milltek, etc.) is better. Just my two cents. :smile:
John
John
#388
10-21-2005 | 03:54 AM
Originally Posted by johnD
But the 2 headers aren't exactly the same, so there are other factors to consider other than the price and fitment issues. The OBX/Supersprint header is a 4-2-1 header, which means the gains are in the lower part powerband than with a 4-1. I think for the street the OBX/Supersprint would still be best, but for the track, maybe a 4-1 (Pilo, Milltek, etc.) is better. Just my two cents. :smile:
John
John
AND isn't it nice to have choices for 200.00 
I did the the OBX and am very pleased with the results.
#390
10-21-2005 | 07:14 AM
right~0n!
so ur sayin' that as long as the flange is as big as the pipes b4 the smaller pipin' begins then its all good?
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
Red Fury called the OBX a "horrible piece of metal". From price performance, I don't agree. I had one stud I had to use. I think someone else had to use two. Still, at less than a third of the price of most competitors, it's a value. But the Pilo Racing Header is close in price (now, wasn't available when the thread started), so the balence is changing.
The other reference was speakiing to "not being 2.5 inches all the way back". Here, when the pipes split into two, the cross sectional area of the two pipes has to be at least as much as the larger pipe.
Since I don't know you, I don't know if you're a Stud or not!
Matt
The other reference was speakiing to "not being 2.5 inches all the way back". Here, when the pipes split into two, the cross sectional area of the two pipes has to be at least as much as the larger pipe.
Since I don't know you, I don't know if you're a Stud or not!
Matt
#391
10-21-2005 | 07:58 AM
im pretty sure its 2" it looks smaller but i doubt it.....
well its much smaller than the the rest of the pipin' (from cat to rear flange) It looks to be 2" after the rear flange it all goes down to the canisters & out in this smaller diameter.
i had the 'playmini/Scorpion' & it wuz BIG & i mean BIG the whole system wuz huge, the canisters and all ( no resonator) the pipe wuz 2.5" from tip to tail & the canisters were huge compared to the Milltek, but they hung low in the rear which for me wuz a major turn~off. //the playmini made up for the straight pipe by addin' bigger canisters.//
but that system (Playmini) is key if u want to stay w/a true 2.5" non resonated exhaust!!!! its a real NiCE piece if i had my choice in tips & canister size i would have run the playmini!! but oh well im on to my next big MOD (header) now so it will do.
BTW the tone of both these systems ROCK. & i've heard a slew of different exhaust's out there by far these are the best!!!
i had the 'playmini/Scorpion' & it wuz BIG & i mean BIG the whole system wuz huge, the canisters and all ( no resonator) the pipe wuz 2.5" from tip to tail & the canisters were huge compared to the Milltek, but they hung low in the rear which for me wuz a major turn~off. //the playmini made up for the straight pipe by addin' bigger canisters.//
but that system (Playmini) is key if u want to stay w/a true 2.5" non resonated exhaust!!!! its a real NiCE piece if i had my choice in tips & canister size i would have run the playmini!! but oh well im on to my next big MOD (header) now so it will do.
BTW the tone of both these systems ROCK. & i've heard a slew of different exhaust's out there by far these are the best!!!
Originally Posted by zrwon
Smaller? how much smaller and the canister are you talking about resonator or muffler?
#392
10-21-2005 | 06:09 PM
Originally Posted by RED FURY
THAT SOUNDS LIKE A HORRIBLE PIECE OF METAL ... POOR FIT
It looks like the newest low cost header shown in post #358 would not have the same fitment problems as the OBX, since the pipes appear to join the cyl head flange at a 90 deg angle, whereas the OBX are more slanted. This slant causes the difficulty in bolting it up. However, if the 4-1 design does not bring the torque improvement of the OBX (Supersprint) 4-2-1, would still go with the OBX, in spite of the finicky install.
#393
10-21-2005 | 06:13 PM
what were ur issues?
u mentioned 'difficult to bolt up' wuz this it? as far as "issues"
u mentioned 'difficult to bolt up' wuz this it? as far as "issues"
Originally Posted by inimmini
Well, the OBX does have some fitment issues, but horrible is a bit harsh. Apparently, my install was tougher than most, but the end result rocks. I don't know if a header tends to "break-in" like an exhaust, or if the ECU has learned better how to run the motor, but the resonance I mentioned earlier seems to be gone, and the pull at low rpms is just plain great!
It looks like the newest low cost header shown in post #358 would not have the same fitment problems as the OBX, since the pipes appear to join the cyl head flange at a 90 deg angle, whereas the OBX are more slanted. This slant causes the difficulty in bolting it up. However, if the 4-1 design does not bring the torque improvement of the OBX (Supersprint) 4-2-1, would still go with the OBX, in spite of the finicky install.
It looks like the newest low cost header shown in post #358 would not have the same fitment problems as the OBX, since the pipes appear to join the cyl head flange at a 90 deg angle, whereas the OBX are more slanted. This slant causes the difficulty in bolting it up. However, if the 4-1 design does not bring the torque improvement of the OBX (Supersprint) 4-2-1, would still go with the OBX, in spite of the finicky install.
#395
10-21-2005 | 08:56 PM
********** post 366 *********
i did read this b4 but totaly wuz lost for a minute.......thx
Originally Posted by inimmini
Got the OBX header installed at Helix last week. I'm glad Eric charges a flat rate for this -- the job took ~ 6 hrs. Well, some of this time was waiting for the header to cool off after I arrived, and then Eric had to run out for SS welding wire. But I think the OBX header was on and off the car about 5 times getting it to fit. Two of the bolts had to be replaced with studs, and some of the bolt holes had to be opened up.
In spite of this, it is good improvement. The whole speed-torque curve seems to be shifted about 500rpm - in other words, it now pulls as well at ~2500rpm as it did at 3000. Really makes the car more fun to drive. Previously, when I launched without quite enough gas for the clutch release, the engine would bog for a second. No more. It just pulls through. Hills that used to require a down shift from 4th to 3rd don't anymore. This mod is similar to the pulley, makes you wonder why it wasn't like this from the factory.
The header does add a bit of noise at times, occaisonally a resonance in the cabin around 4000rpm. But mostly, the sound is just slightly different, a bit deeper and/or more raspy. Overall, I'm happy with the choice of changing the header rather than the more conventional route of a cat back.
In spite of this, it is good improvement. The whole speed-torque curve seems to be shifted about 500rpm - in other words, it now pulls as well at ~2500rpm as it did at 3000. Really makes the car more fun to drive. Previously, when I launched without quite enough gas for the clutch release, the engine would bog for a second. No more. It just pulls through. Hills that used to require a down shift from 4th to 3rd don't anymore. This mod is similar to the pulley, makes you wonder why it wasn't like this from the factory.
The header does add a bit of noise at times, occaisonally a resonance in the cabin around 4000rpm. But mostly, the sound is just slightly different, a bit deeper and/or more raspy. Overall, I'm happy with the choice of changing the header rather than the more conventional route of a cat back.
#396
10-23-2005 | 08:25 PM
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque NM
#397
10-23-2005 | 08:49 PM
Originally Posted by ripley
OK, so I'm getting ready to make this mod but there seems to be some issues with the flange bolts. I assume it's because of the angle of the pipes. True? Just so I'm prepared, what size and length of studs are required?
I don't know the size Eric used, but obviously the threads & diameter are the same as the header bolts, and the length looked to be around 1".
#398
10-23-2005 | 09:16 PM
i watched an install on this but w/a different header & they had a hard time w/this same issue (bolts) mayb its not the header but the angle...is all!
Originally Posted by inimmini
Right, the way (some of the) pipes angle, you can't get the bolts started in the threads. The interference is greatest when the bolt is all the way out, i.e., if you could get it started, the clearance opens up as the bolt screws in. That is why a stud (meaning a threaded rod) works in this case, since you can first screw it into the cyl head, then put on the header, and add a nut to the short end on the stud poking thru the header flange. The short protrusion of the stud gives a bit more clearance for the nut.
I don't know the size Eric used, but obviously the threads & diameter are the same as the header bolts, and the length looked to be around 1".
I don't know the size Eric used, but obviously the threads & diameter are the same as the header bolts, and the length looked to be around 1".