I made clearances on mine with a 32mm deep well socket over a wood block at cylinder’s #1 & 4. No one can tell there are any change to it. It's easier to remove the coil pack and be good with puzzles to get it back on. The flanged slip on isn’t the one I ended up using at the CAT exit pipe. I had another made-up that was 2.5”id all the way through so it would slip over the CAT exit pipe. There wasn’t any room for a band clamp so I spot welded it a couple of places so I can grind them off and reuse it if I ever have to replace the CAT. The CAT pipe on the header end was expanded to slip fit the OBX supplied socket inside the pipe where I used a band clamp.
All parts are Stainless Steel except some washers I stacked on either side of the springs.
Here are the parts laid out.

 

Proper spring tension in front and slip on rear connection = leak free & flexible.

 

Hi all, I'm going into my car and thought I'd post some stuff about the OBX...

In another thread, on of the other headers covered some of the exhaust port on a Webb head. While this photo is from a stock head, you can see that the ports are well centered in the gasket, and that there's lot of room for size increase in the exhaust port.

The other two cyliders look the same.

One other thing. I could see that there was some leakage starting at two of the ports, and when I took the bolts out, they were pretty loose. Sometime when you feel ambitious, take out the heat shield and snug them up.

Also, I was gettingn some surface degradation on the pipes. I'll post photos later when I yank it out.

Matt

 

Sweet! good to know!

 

Made my day.....

Matt

 

Thanks for sharing!

 

It's AMAZING to me that there is that much restriction on the exhaust ports.

So DR, you fixing this?? ;-)

 

Thanks for all the info folks.

I want to make a system with the OBX that has a bolt in "test pipe" and a bolt in STOCK cat.
If I get the OBX it will come with 1 ball flange and 1 bolt flange
This will work for one of my options,
but I still need 1 more BALL FLANGE and use the BOLT FLANGE on the stock cat


Am I correct ? and where can I get my needed parts ?

Thanks for any info.

 

You may have to have it made up. There is an attachment die available for most hydraulic pipe bending machines to form ball socket connections. Any well-equipped exhaust shop should have one. A buddy of mine who has a small shop has one. You would have to have your OBX ball socket on hand to model after.

You could try to get one from an OBX vendor but I don’t think anyone has been able to acquire even a replacement gasket.

 

[quote=norm03s;1298926

You could try to get one from an OBX vendor but I don’t think anyone has been able to acquire even a replacement gasket.[/quote]

I haven't been able to even get a return email or response for the OBX vendor, let alone the gasket that I've needed for the past year.

 

HMMMM

Thanks

I am now concidering using my "refirbished" Mini Mania header with the new and improved CAT. They sent me this as I already have the MM header but have metlted the CAT, They have sent me a header with what looks like a HP CAT (not stock and not the same one as the original).

I may modify, use welded flanges and have 3 choices. My stock CAT (good to keep for Cal tests) The HP ??? cat on the unit now & a "test pipe" to track with.

I figure why not I now need to find the flanges and do some measuring .. and welding

 

an alternative donut that you can get at autoparts stores. It can be used if you scrap it a little bit to get it on the OBX pipe.
I have looked and looked but can't find that post.
Would someone please post that up again and help Galaxie500 out.
Thanks, norm

 

Hi all,

I'm interested in the OBX header for my 2004 MINI ONE CVT but I have some question hope all the OBX expert/owner can help me out

1. My engine already has a plastic cover (refer to photo) which covered the OEM header. Aft I install the OBX header, that plastic cover can use back?

2. Does that plastic cover sufficient to reduce heat? Or coating + plastic cover?

3. If I use a flex bellow (sorry, not sure the name is correct or not but you can refer the photo ) to join/weld in between the OBX header and OEM Cat (ie: OBX header -- weld --> flex bellow -- weld --> OEM Cat) will it be better than using the OBX supplied dougnut gaskets, etc ??

4. If I do that, I dont have to use the spring screw, etc?

Thanks a million.

 

1) Don't know. On my MCS, I did have to bend the heat shields a bit, so it's possible that you may have to trim or get more drastic with the cover.

2) I was getting more heat with the OBX, but the heat shields on the S are metal, so it wasn't an issue.

3) I don't know if it will be better, but it would eliminate the gasket. Many have run the gasket for many, many miles (me amoung them) with little or no issue. I finally lost one when I lost the nuts (I hadn't double nutted when I first put it in). But that took about 3 year!

4) Correct. All that would go away. You also may find that because of the length of the flex joint, you have to cut the header a bit to make it the same overall lenght as the stocker.

Matt

 

Just a note here vodka, the picture you provided is of the intake manifold not the header.
If you want to know what works for a OBX header checkout my gallery pictures.
While I'm at it I'll post a source for replacement gasket that should work.
http://www.hotseatperformance.com/ps...2669&CATID=249

 

Not necessarily - there is plenty of evidence at NAM that -

1) All different flex joint types have failed some NAM members - the one you picture, the obx donut ect........
2) The OBX donut works just fine.

I would go with the donut - if you have a problem swap out BUT if your like me (and many others) - my obx donut has seen over 10,000 w/ no problem. In other words if it broke don't fix it.

 

you can get 5-10 donuts. That ought to last you the life of a couple of Minis!

Matt

 

Got it, thanks for the advice :D

 

Oh, one more thing, do you think those car paint shop can do heat coating? or normally what kind of shop provide these kind of service? Also, it's ok do the header without MTH for long run?

Thanks

 

Not sure where you are located but I always use Swain for my coatings...they're from upstate NY.

 

Just installed my OBX to my 04 MINI ONE CVT, can feel the different, the car is more smoother and faster... so far I'm happy with it :D .I got some aft install question to ask, hope someone can answer them

1. When I accelerate, my butt can feel the vibration underneath the car - the vibration shd come from OEM CAT + OBX header area - what do you think? normal? will it cause any problem?

2. Does the OEM header is ceramic/powder coated?

3. I didnt coat my header, it shd be ok right?

Thanks again

 

1)If it's just louder, that's normal. If it's a rattle, something is bumping a heat shield.

2) Nope. Don't think so....

3) Yep. But the surface may get some rust if the header gets real hot (as our cars tend to do because of how rich they run). It cooks the Ni out of the stainless and it will loose it's shine. I also noticed a bit more cabin heat. My next header is coated.

Hope that helps,

Matt

 

ceramic coated?

 

OBX gasket replacement

Here is a replacement gasket that should work.

http://www.hotseatperformance.com/ps...2669&CATID=249


Posting this again so it doesn't get lost again.

 

wow what a long thread to read lol

i just ordered my obx header and would like to know if any warning lights would go off if i went without the cat ? where i live we have no testing stations

this may be a stupid question .... why not go without the dohnut and weld the pipe straight to the header ? i hnow the engine moves etc , but the little movement in the header to dohnut and existing pipe looks to be very little.