Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain OBX-Racing Header Dyno Results!

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  #551  
Old 09-29-2007 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RatBlast
wow what a long thread to read lol

i just ordered my obx header and would like to know if any warning lights would go off if i went without the cat ? where i live we have no testing stations
Well, one warning light I know of is the one that DrObnxs sees when reading a post about someone going cat-less.
Does the Good Doctor care to take over?


Jim
 
  #552  
Old 09-29-2007 | 02:14 PM
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did i forget to say its for racing only
 
  #553  
Old 09-29-2007 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RatBlast
did i forget to say its for racing only
Ah! That's better.

Jim
 
  #554  
Old 09-30-2007 | 06:03 AM
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First, running without the cat will throw a code because of the second O2 sensor. The computer measures the difference between the two readings to adjust the A/F ratio of the engine to optimize performance. If you eliminate the cat the computer thinks the cat has gone bad.
The donut connection has the spring loaded bolts as part of the deal. These allow some movement to be absorbed at the joint. If you eliminate the donut by welding the exhaust system will find another place to fail. Before that happens you'll probably heave all kinds of noises from the exhaust pipes banging into the heat sheilding under the car. There's not a great deal of room.
 
  #555  
Old 12-04-2007 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by norm03s
Proper spring tension in front and slip on rear connection = leak free & flexible.
Where did you get the flange to go from the cat to the rest of the exhaust system? I can't find anything like that on Summit's web site.
 
  #556  
Old 12-04-2007 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nerd
Where did you get the flange to go from the cat to the rest of the exhaust system? I can't find anything like that on Summit's web site.
It is suppose to come with it but if you bought it from the same guy as I got mine from, you will never get it, I've waited, emailed him and waited some more and he will never send it, I was missing the gasket and the flange with the bolts and springs, that was 2 years ago and my header is still in the box, so if you ever find one of these, let me know, I need one to.

Good luck
Alain
 
  #557  
Old 12-04-2007 | 08:36 PM
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I'm actually looking for the flange on the exhaust side of the cat, not the header side. I'm putting in the OBX, Magnaflow and Invedia exhaust so I'll need that one flange.
 
  #558  
Old 01-04-2008 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by nerd
I'm actually looking for the flange on the exhaust side of the cat, not the header side. I'm putting in the OBX, Magnaflow and Invedia exhaust so I'll need that one flange.

Can you cut the flange off the stock cat and weld or clamp it to the Magnaflow cat?

Ken
 
  #559  
Old 01-24-2008 | 01:48 PM
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I just bought a set of the OBX headers myself. I also bought the Stage 2 kit from Mini-Madness a few days ago. I hope they go together well...anyone have these together? I'm just hoping I don't have to do too many modifications (I'd prefer to do none!) to hook the exhaust together.
 
  #560  
Old 01-24-2008 | 06:19 PM
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The OBX always needs some welding...

as it just ends in a coupler. Most have it welded to the stock cat, then you have the stock place to add on any cat-back....

Matt
 
  #561  
Old 01-24-2008 | 08:16 PM
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From: Hesperia, Ca.
Originally Posted by norm03s
OBX gasket replacement

Here is a replacement gasket that should work.

http://www.hotseatperformance.com/ps...2669&CATID=249


Posting this again so it doesn't get lost again.
I ordered this and took it into my exhaust shop to be installed as a replacement and it is too big for the OBX header. It would not work
 
  #562  
Old 01-25-2008 | 01:05 AM
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The picture of the Ebay ad I purchased from shows it with a flange attached..not just a coupler. I wonder if it is a newer style?

http://www.fuzionetics.com/ebay/new/H10350S_4.jpg

...and it better come to me as pictured!!! :P
 

Last edited by Mini_Wraith; 01-25-2008 at 01:07 AM.
  #563  
Old 01-25-2008 | 04:14 AM
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I don't think I have ever seen a pic of the OBX header that did not have that flange on it.....



Originally Posted by Mini_Wraith
The picture of the Ebay ad I purchased from shows it with a flange attached..not just a coupler. I wonder if it is a newer style?

http://www.fuzionetics.com/ebay/new/H10350S_4.jpg

...and it better come to me as pictured!!! :P
 
  #564  
Old 01-25-2008 | 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mini_Wraith
The picture of the Ebay ad I purchased from shows it with a flange attached..not just a coupler. I wonder if it is a newer style?

http://www.fuzionetics.com/ebay/new/H10350S_4.jpg

...and it better come to me as pictured!!! :P
The flange parts are for JUST connecting the cat to the header NOT anything to do w/ the cat to exhaust.
 
  #565  
Old 01-25-2008 | 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by zrwon
It is suppose to come with it but if you bought it from the same guy as I got mine from, you will never get it, I've waited, emailed him and waited some more and he will never send it, I was missing the gasket and the flange with the bolts and springs, that was 2 years ago and my header is still in the box, so if you ever find one of these, let me know, I need one to.

Good luck
Alain
Your gonna have to do the famous american return !!!! Order another OBX header, remove the parts that you need and send it back for a refund.
 
  #566  
Old 01-25-2008 | 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by nerd
Where did you get the flange to go from the cat to the rest of the exhaust system? I can't find anything like that on Summit's web site.
I'd take the invidia straight pipe that has the flange on it to your local muffler shops/auto stores and tell them you need a flange that connects to it.

My take a few stops but someone will have it for you.
 
  #567  
Old 01-25-2008 | 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Mini_Wraith
The picture of the Ebay ad I purchased from shows it with a flange attached..not just a coupler. I wonder if it is a newer style?

http://www.fuzionetics.com/ebay/new/H10350S_4.jpg

...and it better come to me as pictured!!! :P
It should... and you will still need to do some cutting and welding. See that cone-shaped flange in the lower left corner? That needs to be welded to the stock cat (or aftermarket hi-flow cat) with the loose flange slipped over the pipe first. Then everything bolts on using the flange gasket. This whole system is actually fairly old-tech and was the common mating method between cast iron manifolds and the down-pipe on old 'merican V8's (BTDT).
 

Last edited by IanF; 01-25-2008 at 05:33 AM.
  #568  
Old 01-25-2008 | 08:28 AM
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cut and weld cat

My obx arrives next week.I assume that the cut and weld part(cat) can be done on a table and then simply bolted back up to header and cat right?-or does welding have to take place under car?
-also:Is there any harm done by driving to a second destination(muffler shop) after header install?
I might be able to have a friend with TIG weld it.
Do the o2 sensors easily re attach?
thanks
 
  #569  
Old 01-25-2008 | 08:47 AM
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See post #62 in this thread for a photo of my OBX/stock cat setup.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&highlight=obx

Jim
 
  #570  
Old 01-25-2008 | 11:19 AM
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A few things about an aftermarket cat flange to the cat back exhaust. The center-to-center on the OEM header’s cat flange bolt holes is narrower than the U.S. standard for two bolt flange spacing. A standard two hole flange can be adjusted with a rat-tail file or enlarged with a drill bit to fit; if it is stainless steel, the filing method is a lot of work. I’m sure “metric” flanges are available because all our aftermarket MINI cat backs are supplied with them, but I haven’t located a source. One option is a slotted flange that will accommodate any two bolt spacing and bolt diameter in the universe http://stores.channeladvisor.com/ver.../Items/vibef2b? .

Some fun facts about our OEM flanges, the cat back’s ID at the flange is less than two inches because of the weld bead and small diameter (2.1 inch OD) transition pipe. The cat’s exit ID is only slightly lager than 2 inches because of the weld bead. When using an aftermarket 2.25 ID flange on the cat and mated with an aftermarket cat-back, use an aftermarket gasket also because the OEM gasket has a smaller ID. If running a 2.5 inch cat-back, consider going 2.5 through the cat; the OEM cat can be modified with a larger exit pipe if you chose to keep it.
 
  #571  
Old 01-25-2008 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by the platform
My obx arrives next week.I assume that the cut and weld part(cat) can be done on a table and then simply bolted back up to header and cat right?-or does welding have to take place under car?
-also:Is there any harm done by driving to a second destination(muffler shop) after header install?
I might be able to have a friend with TIG weld it.
Do the o2 sensors easily re attach?
thanks
1) you should do a Stainless steel weld.
2) The proper steps are -
install header, install exhaust and then measure the distance between the two this is what you want the cat with flange/connectors at each end to "fill".

TOO LONG and it will push your exhaust back - possibly forcing the tips to stick out more. TOO short and the inverse happens.

3) remember to double nut or cooper the header spring bolts
4) remember not to over tighten the spring bolts - should be about half way compressed springs.

5) many have done header and then finished the exhaust elsewhere, myself included. Its cool for about 3 minutes. People stare and cops pull you over .

6) sensors go right back in.
 
  #572  
Old 01-25-2008 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bahamabart
1) you should do a Stainless steel weld.
2) The proper steps are -
install header, install exhaust and then measure the distance between the two this is what you want the cat with flange/connectors at each end to "fill".

TOO LONG and it will push your exhaust back - possibly forcing the tips to stick out more. TOO short and the inverse happens.

3) remember to double nut or cooper the header spring bolts
4) remember not to over tighten the spring bolts - should be about half way compressed springs.

5) many have done header and then finished the exhaust elsewhere, myself included. Its cool for about 3 minutes. People stare and cops pull you over .

6) sensors go right back in.
Thanks Bahamabart,
P.s.Have you or anyone else actually talked to someone at sparktec?
I'd like my tracking info for my header.
thanks all
 
  #573  
Old 01-25-2008 | 05:18 PM
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Good luck!

Originally Posted by the platform
Thanks Bahamabart,
P.s.Have you or anyone else actually talked to someone at sparktec?
I'd like my tracking info for my header.
thanks all
long ago I actually managed to find the contact information for the place, we're talking years. Only thing I ever got answered was an odd e-mail. I'd expect the only tracking info you'll get is shipping confirmation when there's a box on your door!

Matt
 
  #574  
Old 01-25-2008 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
long ago I actually managed to find the contact information for the place, we're talking years. Only thing I ever got answered was an odd e-mail. I'd expect the only tracking info you'll get is shipping confirmation when there's a box on your door!

Matt
Awesome....I had a feeling that was the case. It's funny(not really)that on their website they say how important customer service is to them.They give you 3 ways to contact them(failing to list their phone #"you can reach us by phone at,"......nuthin.The entries on this thread show a dismal record of email response.I'm jonesin' for my new loud friend!!!Wheres my header!
 
  #575  
Old 01-25-2008 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by the platform
Thanks Bahamabart,
P.s.Have you or anyone else actually talked to someone at sparktec?
I'd like my tracking info for my header.
thanks all
i bought mine via ebay = i can't recall if I got a tracking number - too long ago.
 


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