Drivetrain Official ALTA Q&A thread!
#226
Guys, Help me out...
I just tried something today to find out about the noise coming from the intercooler elbow.
I sprayed some WD-40 at the new lighten crank pulley and the noise was gone for a bout a minute and it came back slowly... sprayed again and again the same thing happen. At least I know it has nothing to do with the Supercharger!right? Thank god!!
So now,what seems to be the problem? Does it mean I need to get a shorter belt since the sound might be caused by the loosen belt....?
Thank you in advance!
I sprayed some WD-40 at the new lighten crank pulley and the noise was gone for a bout a minute and it came back slowly... sprayed again and again the same thing happen. At least I know it has nothing to do with the Supercharger!right? Thank god!!
So now,what seems to be the problem? Does it mean I need to get a shorter belt since the sound might be caused by the loosen belt....?
Thank you in advance!
#227
Detonics,
If it was the pulley, and it had a nick on the grooves, everytime it went around would make an noise. You spraying WD40 on it may make it go away, does eliminate the vacuum leak being the problem. What i would check is all the pulleys and that the grooves are clean from chips or debris. If you have a way to record the noise, that may be another way to diagnose it.
The MCSa intake tube is being taken care of right away. After initial thoughts of the 2 ports being the problem, now it is the length that is the issue. the hose simply needs to be longer. We will keep people posted as to how this works and when people can have parts.
DeepFriedDuck,
Basically springs lower the and that is their main purpose. Our springs lower the car and provide a slightly stiffer ride, but not much. This is due to the stock struts being vavled for the stock spring rate. If you go to high on the rate the struts will not dampen the spings and you get a bouncy ride. So with that said we feel they are the best comprimise for looks and performance being they lower the car, and provide a slightly stiffer ride.
I don't know how the others compare since we have never installed them. What we tell people is that if you want to lower your car for looks and better performance, springs work fine. But if you want to lower your car, and race it, AutoX it, or want the adjustablility, get coilovers. The problem is its $260 compared to $1200. Way too big of a jump!
If it was the pulley, and it had a nick on the grooves, everytime it went around would make an noise. You spraying WD40 on it may make it go away, does eliminate the vacuum leak being the problem. What i would check is all the pulleys and that the grooves are clean from chips or debris. If you have a way to record the noise, that may be another way to diagnose it.
The MCSa intake tube is being taken care of right away. After initial thoughts of the 2 ports being the problem, now it is the length that is the issue. the hose simply needs to be longer. We will keep people posted as to how this works and when people can have parts.
DeepFriedDuck,
Basically springs lower the and that is their main purpose. Our springs lower the car and provide a slightly stiffer ride, but not much. This is due to the stock struts being vavled for the stock spring rate. If you go to high on the rate the struts will not dampen the spings and you get a bouncy ride. So with that said we feel they are the best comprimise for looks and performance being they lower the car, and provide a slightly stiffer ride.
I don't know how the others compare since we have never installed them. What we tell people is that if you want to lower your car for looks and better performance, springs work fine. But if you want to lower your car, and race it, AutoX it, or want the adjustablility, get coilovers. The problem is its $260 compared to $1200. Way too big of a jump!
#228
Guys, I decided to change the belt to see if there is any difference and hoping it might solve the problem. I believe our stock belt is 1405mm and my new napa belt is 1385mm so its 20mm shorter since I have the 15% pulley and the lighten crank shaft.
So, the new shorter belt wont do any harm right? Can the belt snap easily?
THe result: Do difference but I can see less engine vibration. Im using the Alta Crank pulley and we ( friends ) think its because of the pulley, not the belt or any other parts. The reason is because the noise was gone, totally gone when ever I spray WD40 at the crank pulley,on the tread.. not on the belt. the noise wont go away if i spray on the belt, not a single difference. Is this due to the material of the pulley so when ever the belt and pulley turn... it makes some noise/vibration. ALTA2 and others, any comment?
Thanks.!
So, the new shorter belt wont do any harm right? Can the belt snap easily?
THe result: Do difference but I can see less engine vibration. Im using the Alta Crank pulley and we ( friends ) think its because of the pulley, not the belt or any other parts. The reason is because the noise was gone, totally gone when ever I spray WD40 at the crank pulley,on the tread.. not on the belt. the noise wont go away if i spray on the belt, not a single difference. Is this due to the material of the pulley so when ever the belt and pulley turn... it makes some noise/vibration. ALTA2 and others, any comment?
Thanks.!
#230
Originally Posted by Alvinjn
Detonics
i just got the alta pulley 2% pulley also. Waiting to be fitted. Let me know if you found a solution.
i just got the alta pulley 2% pulley also. Waiting to be fitted. Let me know if you found a solution.
#231
#232
#233
Detonics,
Just to make sure, you are saying that WD40 on the pulley, not the belt makes the noise go away? Are you sure that lube isn't getting on the belt at all? It would seem weird to not get any of the WD40 on the belt when you spray it on the spinning pulley. Plus the centrifugal forced would surely fling the oil to the outside after a few seconds being on there.
Did you check to see if there was a "Nic" in the pulley?
Just to make sure, you are saying that WD40 on the pulley, not the belt makes the noise go away? Are you sure that lube isn't getting on the belt at all? It would seem weird to not get any of the WD40 on the belt when you spray it on the spinning pulley. Plus the centrifugal forced would surely fling the oil to the outside after a few seconds being on there.
Did you check to see if there was a "Nic" in the pulley?
#235
Short answer.
No problem.
Remember, when you're driving, there's a lot of air flowing there. The only time to worry is during rest, after driving. I haven't noticed a thing. And my Mustang puts out tons of underhood heat (Al heads, intake and full headers) with no isulation. No problems in well over a decade!
If you're really worried, you can use some thin insulation. Al duct tape would make a low cost barrier.....
Matt
Remember, when you're driving, there's a lot of air flowing there. The only time to worry is during rest, after driving. I haven't noticed a thing. And my Mustang puts out tons of underhood heat (Al heads, intake and full headers) with no isulation. No problems in well over a decade!
If you're really worried, you can use some thin insulation. Al duct tape would make a low cost barrier.....
Matt
Originally Posted by MyPocketRocket
Does the heat from the engine would hurt the paint of the hood, since I have to remove the plastic piece diverter on top of the stock IC to install ALTA IC?
#236
#237
The sprayer that comes with diverter and your IC works extremely well on HOT days.
It was 110 in Jackson CA. last weekend and everytime I had to restart after letting the car sit for a few, I saw intake temps of 165 degrees. I get it down to 120 by using the sprayer even at low speed. Without spraying the IC, the temps. fluctuate between 135-145 degrees. You can realy feel the difference when the IC temp. gets over 130 degrees.
BTW, been running w/o the stock plastic bit under the hood for over a year with no problems.
It was 110 in Jackson CA. last weekend and everytime I had to restart after letting the car sit for a few, I saw intake temps of 165 degrees. I get it down to 120 by using the sprayer even at low speed. Without spraying the IC, the temps. fluctuate between 135-145 degrees. You can realy feel the difference when the IC temp. gets over 130 degrees.
BTW, been running w/o the stock plastic bit under the hood for over a year with no problems.
#238
sfjames,
That is great! We also had a customer dyno his car (with stock IC) and gained 12 or so WHP with the water spraying. It definitely works!
I think most newer paints are stable to about 300degrees. So since the engine runs in the 200ish area, the only thing hotter is the exhaust manifold. As long as the heat sheild is in place, you shouldn't worry.
That is great! We also had a customer dyno his car (with stock IC) and gained 12 or so WHP with the water spraying. It definitely works!
I think most newer paints are stable to about 300degrees. So since the engine runs in the 200ish area, the only thing hotter is the exhaust manifold. As long as the heat sheild is in place, you shouldn't worry.
#239
Originally Posted by supergimp
Incidentally, the hose is quite loose on the throttle body end (I never tightened the clamp). Is it this way on the manual MCS?
Steve
Steve
If there is a resolution available, i'd love to hear it!
#240
The intake hose is bigger than the TB, but it clamps down just fine. The easiest way to install it is to connect it to the TB(with the front plastic fresh air tube removed) tighten the clamp(a 1/4drive 8mm racket or nut driver required), pinch the tube in the middle and fold it back, re-install front plastic air tube, fold intake hose back to the air box.
Hope that helps!
Hope that helps!
#241
Originally Posted by ALTA2
The intake hose is bigger than the TB, but it clamps down just fine. The easiest way to install it is to connect it to the TB(with the front plastic fresh air tube removed) tighten the clamp(a 1/4drive 8mm racket or nut driver required), pinch the tube in the middle and fold it back, re-install front plastic air tube, fold intake hose back to the air box.
Hope that helps!
Hope that helps!
#242
#243
Originally Posted by ALTA2
sfjames,
That is great! We also had a customer dyno his car (with stock IC) and gained 12 or so WHP with the water spraying. It definitely works!
I think most newer paints are stable to about 300degrees. So since the engine runs in the 200ish area, the only thing hotter is the exhaust manifold. As long as the heat sheild is in place, you shouldn't worry.
That is great! We also had a customer dyno his car (with stock IC) and gained 12 or so WHP with the water spraying. It definitely works!
I think most newer paints are stable to about 300degrees. So since the engine runs in the 200ish area, the only thing hotter is the exhaust manifold. As long as the heat sheild is in place, you shouldn't worry.
I think it's time for a NEW and improved diverter though....I'm thinking of something like a plastic shroud that covers the entire stock IC and matches up perfeclty with the hoood scoop so we can get more air pressure blowing THRU the IC.
When I spray at speeds over 60mph, some of the water gets blown out the front of the scoop and mists my window. I'm thinking it's because the air cannot pass thru the IC fast enough or the air doesn't have a clean/smooth enough passage.
Hmmm, think I need a new scoop AND diverter.
Whutcha think?
#245
Water shouldn't come out the scoop with the stock IC Alta diverter??? With the large one it could. the suggestion of plastic has been made before and is something we looked into. The steel diverters have worked really well since we started making parts for the mini, and why change something that works! But look out for some changes with parts toward the end of the year.
#246
To all MSCa customers!!
(MSCa=Mini Cooper S Automatic tranny)
As we have recently discovered that our current mini intake will not work on the auto we would like to help those in need of more power now! The Alta intake with out the silicone hose is $199.99. This will fit the MCSa, and will also work with the future MCSa silicone hose. The retail price of the intake for the MCSa will be $279.99, and the hose separately will be $119.99. But for anyone who has bought the intake already, or plans on buying the intake between now and about 8 weeks, we will offer the hose for $79.99. Making the total out of pocket expense the same as if you bought the intake with hose to begin with.
All the dealers will be offered the same deal so you may be able to call up your favorite dealer and get them ordered ASAP.
We hope this helps soften the blow of our current intake not working on the MCSa cars.
If anyone has questions about this feel free to call or email us or your dealer. Dealers will be notified of this ASAP and if they aren't aware of it when you call, have them call us!
(MSCa=Mini Cooper S Automatic tranny)
As we have recently discovered that our current mini intake will not work on the auto we would like to help those in need of more power now! The Alta intake with out the silicone hose is $199.99. This will fit the MCSa, and will also work with the future MCSa silicone hose. The retail price of the intake for the MCSa will be $279.99, and the hose separately will be $119.99. But for anyone who has bought the intake already, or plans on buying the intake between now and about 8 weeks, we will offer the hose for $79.99. Making the total out of pocket expense the same as if you bought the intake with hose to begin with.
All the dealers will be offered the same deal so you may be able to call up your favorite dealer and get them ordered ASAP.
We hope this helps soften the blow of our current intake not working on the MCSa cars.
If anyone has questions about this feel free to call or email us or your dealer. Dealers will be notified of this ASAP and if they aren't aware of it when you call, have them call us!
#248
#250