Drivetrain Official ALTA Q&A thread!
#251
skuzy,
The last person contacted us a couple of days ago, and everything is in process. Parts will start leaving tomarrow and all should be gone by friday. the process has taken a while because of gathering everyones info.
markbradford,
It may but it is not something we have tried. The stock tube is very flexable in that the location of the "tube" on the air box on other peoples air boxes can be different and have it fit. The Silicone tube is somewhat fixed in its position so it may not fit with other air boxes. But if you interest give us a call.
The last person contacted us a couple of days ago, and everything is in process. Parts will start leaving tomarrow and all should be gone by friday. the process has taken a while because of gathering everyones info.
markbradford,
It may but it is not something we have tried. The stock tube is very flexable in that the location of the "tube" on the air box on other peoples air boxes can be different and have it fit. The Silicone tube is somewhat fixed in its position so it may not fit with other air boxes. But if you interest give us a call.
#252
#254
pyugala,
The front endlinks could have another issue. If your car is lowered, the endlinks need to be made longer. The problem is that since the endlink mount on the sway bar sits perpendicular to the top mount, when the sway bar is rotated up and down the angle changes causing the the rod end to rotate. This is perfectly fine, at normal ride hieght (when the end links are made the same length as stock), but when lowered the angle changes so much that the rod end can run out of rotation. This will cause binding in the link, and bend the rod end or cause the nuts to loosen. This is my guess as to what is happening.
Thanks to the NAM community for helping us figure this out. Our instructions have changed to indicate the length changes for lowered cars, and if anyone would like these email us and we can send them to you. This isn't a widely spread problem, but if anyone has our front links (rears don't matter) they need to be longer for lowered cars. Not sport pack cars, cars with lowering springs or coilovers.
The front endlinks could have another issue. If your car is lowered, the endlinks need to be made longer. The problem is that since the endlink mount on the sway bar sits perpendicular to the top mount, when the sway bar is rotated up and down the angle changes causing the the rod end to rotate. This is perfectly fine, at normal ride hieght (when the end links are made the same length as stock), but when lowered the angle changes so much that the rod end can run out of rotation. This will cause binding in the link, and bend the rod end or cause the nuts to loosen. This is my guess as to what is happening.
Thanks to the NAM community for helping us figure this out. Our instructions have changed to indicate the length changes for lowered cars, and if anyone would like these email us and we can send them to you. This isn't a widely spread problem, but if anyone has our front links (rears don't matter) they need to be longer for lowered cars. Not sport pack cars, cars with lowering springs or coilovers.
#255
Originally Posted by ALTA2
pyugala,
The front endlinks could have another issue. If your car is lowered, the endlinks need to be made longer. The problem is that since the endlink mount on the sway bar sits perpendicular to the top mount, when the sway bar is rotated up and down the angle changes causing the the rod end to rotate. This is perfectly fine, at normal ride hieght (when the end links are made the same length as stock), but when lowered the angle changes so much that the rod end can run out of rotation. This will cause binding in the link, and bend the rod end or cause the nuts to loosen. This is my guess as to what is happening.
Thanks to the NAM community for helping us figure this out. Our instructions have changed to indicate the length changes for lowered cars, and if anyone would like these email us and we can send them to you. This isn't a widely spread problem, but if anyone has our front links (rears don't matter) they need to be longer for lowered cars. Not sport pack cars, cars with lowering springs or coilovers.
The front endlinks could have another issue. If your car is lowered, the endlinks need to be made longer. The problem is that since the endlink mount on the sway bar sits perpendicular to the top mount, when the sway bar is rotated up and down the angle changes causing the the rod end to rotate. This is perfectly fine, at normal ride hieght (when the end links are made the same length as stock), but when lowered the angle changes so much that the rod end can run out of rotation. This will cause binding in the link, and bend the rod end or cause the nuts to loosen. This is my guess as to what is happening.
Thanks to the NAM community for helping us figure this out. Our instructions have changed to indicate the length changes for lowered cars, and if anyone would like these email us and we can send them to you. This isn't a widely spread problem, but if anyone has our front links (rears don't matter) they need to be longer for lowered cars. Not sport pack cars, cars with lowering springs or coilovers.
However I have adjusted the links to your recomendation.
Thanks ALTA!
#256
Hi there Jeff. I'm pleased to report that I'm the first of the Aussie MINI2ers to have their group buy ALTA CAI fitted.
But I have just one question. On the close up pic you can see a gap underneath the heat shield (note battery leads). Is this normal or have I done something incorrectly. Otherwise the fit and finish is first rate and everything seems perfect. Thanks for looking after us with the group buy too.
Cheers Liam
But I have just one question. On the close up pic you can see a gap underneath the heat shield (note battery leads). Is this normal or have I done something incorrectly. Otherwise the fit and finish is first rate and everything seems perfect. Thanks for looking after us with the group buy too.
Cheers Liam
#257
pyugala,
We do have new rod ends we can sell you, but now that you have fixed them, would guess they should be just fine. But if you want to replace them give us a call!
minigolf,
There is a piece of foam trim that goes there. It should be in the box? its 8" long, the foam is on the side as apposed to the top like the trim around the top of the box. Let us know if you don't have one.
We do have new rod ends we can sell you, but now that you have fixed them, would guess they should be just fine. But if you want to replace them give us a call!
minigolf,
There is a piece of foam trim that goes there. It should be in the box? its 8" long, the foam is on the side as apposed to the top like the trim around the top of the box. Let us know if you don't have one.
#258
Originally Posted by ALTA2
pyugala,
We do have new rod ends we can sell you, but now that you have fixed them, would guess they should be just fine. But if you want to replace them give us a call!
We do have new rod ends we can sell you, but now that you have fixed them, would guess they should be just fine. But if you want to replace them give us a call!
Thanks
#260
Originally Posted by ALTA2
pyugala,
We do have new rod ends we can sell you, but now that you have fixed them, would guess they should be just fine. But if you want to replace them give us a call!
minigolf,
There is a piece of foam trim that goes there. It should be in the box? its 8" long, the foam is on the side as apposed to the top like the trim around the top of the box. Let us know if you don't have one.
We do have new rod ends we can sell you, but now that you have fixed them, would guess they should be just fine. But if you want to replace them give us a call!
minigolf,
There is a piece of foam trim that goes there. It should be in the box? its 8" long, the foam is on the side as apposed to the top like the trim around the top of the box. Let us know if you don't have one.
Bugger, no easy way to get to it now either.
Thanks Liam
PS. The CAI is awesome btw.
#261
That piece can be installed without taking anything apart. Just patiently slip it under there, over the battery cables and around the small connector toward the front of the car (lower left hand corner of the heat shield). I learned this the hard way....but it can be done!
Originally Posted by minigolf
Ah, yep, we had that bit left over!
Bugger, no easy way to get to it now either.
Thanks Liam
PS. The CAI is awesome btw.
Bugger, no easy way to get to it now either.
Thanks Liam
PS. The CAI is awesome btw.
#263
#265
Originally Posted by minigolf
How about a blue to match the silicon hose colour? I realise it may be impossible to get an exact match but some sort of blue foam, even if its lighter to aid inspection for cleaning, would be great! To me blue hose, blue foam filter makes sense.
Thanks Liam
Thanks Liam
Are you sure you can't do something like below?
Please!
Looks good doesn't it!
Liam
#266
Strom,
The single sided thing is something you may see after the SEMA show. We are going to play with a 3" version of our exhaust first then do the single sided system.
Minigolf,
I do like the blue, but our foam supplier, just doens't have a blue that is good enough. Then we have to have 3 different colored filters, and 3 different colored tubes. Some people may want a red hose with the black filter, or the blue filter or the red filter. That creates many PNs for dealers to have to stock and keep track of. Seriously we have been thinking about going to a black or grey filter to work with all intakes colors. This would be a neutral enough color to please everyone. We hope!
The single sided thing is something you may see after the SEMA show. We are going to play with a 3" version of our exhaust first then do the single sided system.
Minigolf,
I do like the blue, but our foam supplier, just doens't have a blue that is good enough. Then we have to have 3 different colored filters, and 3 different colored tubes. Some people may want a red hose with the black filter, or the blue filter or the red filter. That creates many PNs for dealers to have to stock and keep track of. Seriously we have been thinking about going to a black or grey filter to work with all intakes colors. This would be a neutral enough color to please everyone. We hope!
#267
Originally Posted by ALTA2
minigolf,
There is a piece of foam trim that goes there. It should be in the box? its 8" long, the foam is on the side as apposed to the top like the trim around the top of the box. Let us know if you don't have one.
Steve
#269
Originally Posted by ALTA2
Minigolf,
I do like the blue, but our foam supplier, just doens't have a blue that is good enough. Then we have to have 3 different colored filters, and 3 different colored tubes. Some people may want a red hose with the black filter, or the blue filter or the red filter. That creates many PNs for dealers to have to stock and keep track of. Seriously we have been thinking about going to a black or grey filter to work with all intakes colors. This would be a neutral enough color to please everyone. We hope!
I do like the blue, but our foam supplier, just doens't have a blue that is good enough. Then we have to have 3 different colored filters, and 3 different colored tubes. Some people may want a red hose with the black filter, or the blue filter or the red filter. That creates many PNs for dealers to have to stock and keep track of. Seriously we have been thinking about going to a black or grey filter to work with all intakes colors. This would be a neutral enough color to please everyone. We hope!
Cheers Liam
#270
While trying to fix a squeek in my ALTA rear sway bar, I noticed that the stops that are on either side of the mounting bushings (for limiting movement of the bar) are welded on too wide. This allows the bar to move laterally within the bushings. The bar worked itself to the left, coming to rest against the stop, but that movement has caused it to come into contact with the right-side spring.
Are the bar stops supposed to be welded on like this, or is mine different? Also, how can I stop the bar from working itself to the left and contacting the spring on the right?
Thanks!
Here is a diagram of what the bar is supposed to be (I think):
-|0---------------0|-
Here is mine:
-|-0-------------0-|-
And here is what it worked to:
-|--0-------------0|-
Key:
----- = sway bar
| = bar stops
0 = chassis mounting bushings
Are the bar stops supposed to be welded on like this, or is mine different? Also, how can I stop the bar from working itself to the left and contacting the spring on the right?
Thanks!
Here is a diagram of what the bar is supposed to be (I think):
-|0---------------0|-
Here is mine:
-|-0-------------0-|-
And here is what it worked to:
-|--0-------------0|-
Key:
----- = sway bar
| = bar stops
0 = chassis mounting bushings
#271
SRTech,
The rubber trim should be 9", if it isn't we can send you some more. but it is somewhat stretchy, and it may fit just fine once you get it on the box. Let us know and we can get something out to you right away.
strom,
There will always be a little gap between the bar and the washers. There has to be do to all cars being a little different. But with that said how much is between the bushings? I would guess about .125"-.25"?? The bar will move around a little which is perfectly fine as long as it doesn't run into anything. You say it has hit the spring. This is something we have never seen, but it could be possible. With the amount of play in the bushing brackets and bolts that hold it to the subfram, and the fact the subframe can move left to right slightly when it is unbolted, i can see this could happen. The holes the bolts that hold the subframe go through are larger by about .125" This .125" offset to one side and the bushings off set to that same side could cause this. Let us know what you find. Also if you can measure the width from washer to washer we can find out what part is wrong. Talk soon!
The rubber trim should be 9", if it isn't we can send you some more. but it is somewhat stretchy, and it may fit just fine once you get it on the box. Let us know and we can get something out to you right away.
strom,
There will always be a little gap between the bar and the washers. There has to be do to all cars being a little different. But with that said how much is between the bushings? I would guess about .125"-.25"?? The bar will move around a little which is perfectly fine as long as it doesn't run into anything. You say it has hit the spring. This is something we have never seen, but it could be possible. With the amount of play in the bushing brackets and bolts that hold it to the subfram, and the fact the subframe can move left to right slightly when it is unbolted, i can see this could happen. The holes the bolts that hold the subframe go through are larger by about .125" This .125" offset to one side and the bushings off set to that same side could cause this. Let us know what you find. Also if you can measure the width from washer to washer we can find out what part is wrong. Talk soon!
#273
Originally Posted by ALTA2
SRTech,
The rubber trim should be 9", if it isn't we can send you some more. but it is somewhat stretchy, and it may fit just fine once you get it on the box. Let us know and we can get something out to you right away.
The rubber trim should be 9", if it isn't we can send you some more. but it is somewhat stretchy, and it may fit just fine once you get it on the box. Let us know and we can get something out to you right away.
Steve
#274
Was there an answer to this question?
Originally Posted by Strom
Also, do you have any plans to make the ALTA intake CARB legal?
Thanks!
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8&postcount=17
Love the sound of the Alta CAI. Install was also a breeze.:smile:
#275