Drivetrain Official ALTA Q&A thread!
#801
Diosdado: Thanks for asking! The A/T poses more of a struggle than the grinding. The A/T motor sits approx. 5/8-3/4" vs. the 6-spd model. As a result the I/C can injure the hood. The best setup if you want to stick to an intercooler is the ALTA Version 1.0, then trim the included diverter approx. 3/8" or remove the diverter completely. This will allow more clearance to the hood.
However, what I personally would recommend is our PWI-1 water injection system. This injects a water/meth mixture into the inlet stream. It will cool the air charge chemically. Installation is straightfoward and can be performed by anyone capable of installation of an aftermarket radio. We have a local client that we are doing the installation and dyno tune tomorrow. We will be publishing some results early next week.
If we can help in anyway further PLEASE let us know. Thanks for choosing ALTA Performance Products!
However, what I personally would recommend is our PWI-1 water injection system. This injects a water/meth mixture into the inlet stream. It will cool the air charge chemically. Installation is straightfoward and can be performed by anyone capable of installation of an aftermarket radio. We have a local client that we are doing the installation and dyno tune tomorrow. We will be publishing some results early next week.
If we can help in anyway further PLEASE let us know. Thanks for choosing ALTA Performance Products!
#802
#803
Smokey: The demand is REALLY high for that product right now and it takes us a few weeks to get caught up. About 50 cores were shipped to dealers late last week, and another 50 will be shipping in another two weeks. Our apologies for the delay. There will be no shortages in March unless there is a HUGE increase in demand again. Thank you to everyone who has supported us with their business!
Let me know if I can help further!
Let me know if I can help further!
#805
#807
#808
#810
#811
Hey, Alta Guys!!
I bought and installed v2 of your IC diverter with spray. I installed it several weeks ago; however, I have NOT yet connected the spray.
I have decided that I want to set the IC spritzer up with its own reservoir to use a water/meth mix. I don't really want to lose my washers AND I also want the reservoir to be larger than any of the OEM MINI reservoirs. I also see my upgrade of the IC spritz system as a sort of intermediate step to injection, which I hope to need after I get my new head from Fireballed (probably many moons away).
Anyway, the features I want include the following, in addition to the above:
- low fluid level indicator
- automated control o fthe spritz action based on boost (10psi) and IAT (I am interested in your suggestions for "trigger" temps to try out)
My goal is to anticipate and thereby eliminate knock and timing retard rather than to react to it.
I'd also like your suggestion on pressure and pump to be used on the system.
Thanks.
I bought and installed v2 of your IC diverter with spray. I installed it several weeks ago; however, I have NOT yet connected the spray.
I have decided that I want to set the IC spritzer up with its own reservoir to use a water/meth mix. I don't really want to lose my washers AND I also want the reservoir to be larger than any of the OEM MINI reservoirs. I also see my upgrade of the IC spritz system as a sort of intermediate step to injection, which I hope to need after I get my new head from Fireballed (probably many moons away).
Anyway, the features I want include the following, in addition to the above:
- low fluid level indicator
- automated control o fthe spritz action based on boost (10psi) and IAT (I am interested in your suggestions for "trigger" temps to try out)
My goal is to anticipate and thereby eliminate knock and timing retard rather than to react to it.
I'd also like your suggestion on pressure and pump to be used on the system.
Thanks.
#812
Im debating on which pulley to get ..im set on getting a 2% crank.....should i go with a 15 reduction pulley...i want to maintain a safely ran SC so i dont want a 17 or 19 but with a 15 or do you have a 16?.....along with your newest CAI ...and those two pulleys how much HP should i expect before and after a GAIC flash ?.....and should i stick with the 15 or 16 percent pulleys or would you advise the 17 or 19 pulleys under different circumstances with certain mods to maintain the engines safety ?
#813
Smokey: Thanks!
markldriskill: Interesting plan and idea. However, with the type of functions you are looking to include, I would strongly suggest just doing the water/meth injection kit we have available now. The water spray external shouldn't need that complex of a setup. Also, don't spray meth on the outside of the motor as it is a fuel and can cause a fire! More information on the water kit is available at www.altaminiperformance.com
Thank you!
markldriskill: Interesting plan and idea. However, with the type of functions you are looking to include, I would strongly suggest just doing the water/meth injection kit we have available now. The water spray external shouldn't need that complex of a setup. Also, don't spray meth on the outside of the motor as it is a fuel and can cause a fire! More information on the water kit is available at www.altaminiperformance.com
Thank you!
#814
edulbledie: Thank you for your questions. The most common and best for belt wrap and boost level is the 2% crank and 15% S/C. The pulleys alone will produce more than 20 WHP! In recent testing our 06 convertible MCS made 214 WHP with the 15% pulley, CAI, Box Top, Header/Catalyst, and 2.5" exhaust. No ECU changes were made during this test. So with that combo anticipate a higher return with ECU tuning. The 15-17% total reduction is a tried and true combination, and you need not worry about damage to the engine or S/C. If we can help with any other questions or concerns PLEASE let me know.
Thanks again for choosing ALTA Performance Products.
Thanks again for choosing ALTA Performance Products.
#815
#816
Sorry to butt in here for a sec, but FWIW you might want to talk to someone knowledgeable on the GIAC, since you seem to favor using it. I believe they only provide programming for specific pulley combos, some with injectors only, and I don't remember ever reading any increased diameter crank pulley considered on the GIAC programs.
A quick search through NAM should point you in the right direction for ECU tuning, but calling the experts should provide the best information.
A quick search through NAM should point you in the right direction for ECU tuning, but calling the experts should provide the best information.
#820
I wouldn't douse the outside of my engine in fuel, and I know that straight methanol is a fuel!! I read elsewhere on NAM that a mix of 51% water and 49% methanol is NOT flammable (or corrosive, either, by the way) (whereas straight methanol WOULD be both). Is that correct or not?
If such a water/methanol mix is either not practical or not safe to use externally, then I understand that injection is another potential route to cooling. However, I wanted to avoid having to drill the OEM parts and tune leaner for the methanol (at least until my car is out of warranty) and from what I read, I would not get much -- if any -- benefit from injection if I don't tune for it.
Also, assuming that it is NOT flammable, wouldn't the 51/49 mix be much more effective at cooling than straight water? Yes, or no?
And, last: of course I understand that there would be additional expense and "complexity" involved in doing what I suggest. But if the external spray CAN effectively reduce timing retard, then why shouldn't one automate that effect rather than having to press a (window-washer) button?
Maybe 10psi is too low a boost setting to use to trigger the spritz? or maybe I should only use IAT -- and NOT boost -- to trigger the spritz? But IF the spritz works, then why not make it work smoothly, efficiently, and without having to GUESS at when it is needed, and GUESS when to fill the tank (hence, the low-level indicator)? And why have to give up the OEM washer system in the first place to reduce timing retard and avoid the resulting power loss?
If the spritz does NOT work to reduce power loss, of course, that is another story. Does spritzing the IC externally reduce power loss or does it not? If I already wasted money on your diverter with sprayer, I don't want to throw more good money after bad!! And I won't even bother to connect the sprayer to ANY reservoir. Why waste time and effort?
And, finally, if you can't be helpful with suggestions as to how and at what IA temps or boost pressures to trigger the allegedly helpful IC spritzing action, then just say so.
I have been happy with my Alta 15% pulley and 19mm rr anti-sway bar. ut I'm starting to think I spent too much money on the diverter.
If such a water/methanol mix is either not practical or not safe to use externally, then I understand that injection is another potential route to cooling. However, I wanted to avoid having to drill the OEM parts and tune leaner for the methanol (at least until my car is out of warranty) and from what I read, I would not get much -- if any -- benefit from injection if I don't tune for it.
Also, assuming that it is NOT flammable, wouldn't the 51/49 mix be much more effective at cooling than straight water? Yes, or no?
And, last: of course I understand that there would be additional expense and "complexity" involved in doing what I suggest. But if the external spray CAN effectively reduce timing retard, then why shouldn't one automate that effect rather than having to press a (window-washer) button?
Maybe 10psi is too low a boost setting to use to trigger the spritz? or maybe I should only use IAT -- and NOT boost -- to trigger the spritz? But IF the spritz works, then why not make it work smoothly, efficiently, and without having to GUESS at when it is needed, and GUESS when to fill the tank (hence, the low-level indicator)? And why have to give up the OEM washer system in the first place to reduce timing retard and avoid the resulting power loss?
If the spritz does NOT work to reduce power loss, of course, that is another story. Does spritzing the IC externally reduce power loss or does it not? If I already wasted money on your diverter with sprayer, I don't want to throw more good money after bad!! And I won't even bother to connect the sprayer to ANY reservoir. Why waste time and effort?
And, finally, if you can't be helpful with suggestions as to how and at what IA temps or boost pressures to trigger the allegedly helpful IC spritzing action, then just say so.
I have been happy with my Alta 15% pulley and 19mm rr anti-sway bar. ut I'm starting to think I spent too much money on the diverter.
#821
#822
#823
edubledie: The biggest issue with the 19% and 2% is the 21% total reduction. That is simply too much for a comfortable level on the redline on the S/C. There are some reports to concur that a car with a 19% S/C and or a 0% crank is more likely to have belt issues vs. a 15% or 17% with a 2-4% crank. The difference and problem stems from the amount of belt material in contact with the pulley groove surface. When making a more dramatic change in the diameter (going from a 17-19%) the reduced size decreases the area where the belt grabs (wraps) the pulley surface. The choice is up to the consumer, but we would recommend a 17% S/C and 2% crank to achieve the 19% total reduction. Hope that helps!
#825
markldriskill: In no way trying to create an arugement amongst members of the community but....any amount of methanol (even diluted) is a fuel. The flash point changes of course, but still a fuel. (You can certainly spray it on your engine, but my personal choice would be to use distilled water vs. methanol.) Methanol is extremely corrosive to aluminum in any concentration. Spraying it on the intercooler will result in a foamy white funky appearance as it corrodes the aluminum. Over time it will breakdown the core itself (as well as other aluminum bits under the hood.)
If you are looking to increase the HP then yes injecting the meth/water into the intake stream is far more beneficial. You may want to look at the cost of the cast IC couplers to determine a replacement cost if you did drill one of them. You could also drill it into the out put of the IC endtank as well. But to get the most benefit out of the kit a raise in boost is ideal. So if you are running a 15% now, add a 4% crank. You will not need to lean the OEM injectors out with the addition of a roughly 50/50 meth/water mix.
The diverter is NOT a waste of money in the slightest. It combined with the spryer does an excellent job of cooling the factory IC core and increasing air density as a result. If you wish to add additional complexity to its activation, that is a great idea. I was only trying to make a suggestion as to what would benefit most with the use of methanol as well as take the most advantage of the more complex activation method you propose.
The IC gets HOT in any sustained high boost situation. So activating based on pressure is probably ideal vs air temp. Or again, set to use the factory delay spray to keep a consistently colder core in those situations of high boost demand.
PLEASE feel free to call me as well to discuss any of this at length. Forum posts become difficult to answer larger more involved concerns like yours and I want you to get every nuance of the questions answered.
Thanks again!
If you are looking to increase the HP then yes injecting the meth/water into the intake stream is far more beneficial. You may want to look at the cost of the cast IC couplers to determine a replacement cost if you did drill one of them. You could also drill it into the out put of the IC endtank as well. But to get the most benefit out of the kit a raise in boost is ideal. So if you are running a 15% now, add a 4% crank. You will not need to lean the OEM injectors out with the addition of a roughly 50/50 meth/water mix.
The diverter is NOT a waste of money in the slightest. It combined with the spryer does an excellent job of cooling the factory IC core and increasing air density as a result. If you wish to add additional complexity to its activation, that is a great idea. I was only trying to make a suggestion as to what would benefit most with the use of methanol as well as take the most advantage of the more complex activation method you propose.
The IC gets HOT in any sustained high boost situation. So activating based on pressure is probably ideal vs air temp. Or again, set to use the factory delay spray to keep a consistently colder core in those situations of high boost demand.
PLEASE feel free to call me as well to discuss any of this at length. Forum posts become difficult to answer larger more involved concerns like yours and I want you to get every nuance of the questions answered.
Thanks again!