Thanks Adam for the response. I will be sticking to the streets so no problems then.

Take care.

 

Thanks again NAM!

 

Hmmm, has this thread been moved to another section? I been gone for a bit...

 

VBG: I HOPE NOT! If so where is it?

 

I guess there was no luck on finding a Black Diverter Sprayer like the Originals or the V2's?

 

Mr Alta, whats the difference between the Alta CAI v2 and the old CAI other than the price?

 

Hmmmm, I been gone. The thread seemed untouched for a long time, so I mostly was asking the question, thinking perhaps while I was gone everyone moved... My parents did that once, but I found them anyway .

While we're talking, are you aware of any changes related to the (c)ARB situation for the intakes? My sympathies, I know you're as frustrated as we are about it. Are there any gory details that you can share about what has happened?

I'm guessing 1000 scathing letters to the CA or Fed smog guys from angry consumers won't help this situation .

No matter, I'm glad to see you're still here, Adam.

Best,

-- Don

 

golden_child: I can only find black. If you want black, just give me a call! Happy to help. (If I am a tool and misread your previous request, my apologies.) Hope to hear from you soon.

Mini_Chan: Color and badging. The Classic uses a two-stage clear over silver powder. The V 2.0 is a flat black powder, with aluminum logo plate. Performance is identical. So choose which one you love best! Thanks again!

VBG: Glad to be here! But yes no updates on the CARB. Unless a major change happens within CARB there will be no good news for a lengthy period of time. Our continued apologies.

Thanks again everyone! Happy to help as always!

 

Any update on the GP diverter?

 

Hey Alta, you got a call from me about an intake install on a MCSa. Still having a little trouble. Sent you a PM.

Thanks!

 

I'm not sure if this question has been asked in this thread already or not but was wondering why the CAI that have a filter/silicon with a tube now cost close to $300.

Please do exucse me since I'm from the old school thought of modding and the air filters usualy costed anywhere from $75-150 max and pretty much inculded the same hardware.

 

First, excuse my ignorance - this will be a really dumb question.

So - I don't know what is a sway bar, but I know I need it...

I mean not really - I can imagine what it should do (and it is beyond my understanding why that piece of metal is not fitted in the factory (or it is - but it is "substandard" according to the posts). But anyhow. It seems to be a bar with some holes in it (three to be more precise) that gives a certain rigidity to the rear end of the car (sounds simplistic - but that is what a non-mechanic mind like mine envisions it). So I bet it is a torsion- + elongation-based rigidity.

And now the questions - even dumber:

- if it is just a bar with some holes (both the Helix and the Alta are more or less similar, with the three-hole settings), and yes - I know it is not stainless steel from Hole depot - why does it cost so much? (I mean 200$ on average);
- even worse - now I have to choose between the Helix and the Alta ones. Alta is red and costs 194$ shipped, and Helix is Black and costs 231$ shipped. How should I choose between them? By color?
- it is clear that the torsion properties of the bars are dictated solely by the diameter (and 22 mm is more torsionally-rigid than the 19mm, and taht makes the car too stiff - so 19 mm is the way to go. But would that by any means impact on the warranty of the suspension in special or of the car in general?

Thank you for enlightening me,

MMM

(cross-posted in teh R56 suspension mods).

 

I hate it when I don't get the notifications that people have posted.

newbs49: I will ask Jeff for you and get back ASAP!

CooperDrew: Hope we got things straightened out a long time ago. If not call me at 503-643-4677 xt 203

blissful:Thanks for the questions, but I am a bit lost. We offer intake systems that start at $200 without the silicone, $259 with the silicone. We do have a combo-pak for $300 (6-spd only) that does include the box top, silicone, air box, filter, hardware etc. Is that what you were referring to? If so how can I help? I would be more than happy to call and speak to you about the comparitive differences between the common systems on the market today, HP gains etc. Just let me know how I can help and I am all over it! Thanks again for the opportunity to help!

minimaximini: Thanks for your questions and concerns. You have the basic idea nailed. The bar uses torsional resistance to prevent body roll during cornering. It attaches to both the uni-body and the trailing arms to use leverage to change the amount of roll.

When comparing sizes, they do offer different amounts of resistane leverage and thus can be used for different styles of driving. We generally recommend for a street driven car the 19mm adjustable bar, the 22mm is an excellent choice as well but more geared toward the track minded enthusiast.

When chosing between companies it can be difficult. But, ALTA is a well known source for MINI performance products and this is a car we specialize in. Our owners and employees own these cars and we share the same enthusiasm and passion you do for these cars. As a result we can add subtle details and benefits to our products not found in the big-box type mfrs. We welcome the opportunity to help in anyway we can. Feel free to call me directly with any questions or concerns.

 

CARB?????????????????????????????????????????????? ?

 

Hey there guys at alta - you know me well by email, I am the one with the Black JCW in Aus - all is beginning to come together on my car now, and I have been making some steps forward that for the moment seem dramatic!! (ie the tune,17% and the bypass valve).
For the benefit of everyone here, I have two questions though...
1. What is your fix to the "overboost" problem associated with vehicles running higher than 18psi?? Something as simple as a fuel cut defender???? If so, what brand are you using??
2. I have heard a rumour that some of the early JCW minis had problems with cam timing - some even sayinf that the woodruff key on the shaft is in the wrong spot. Every come across this?? Maybe this has been affecting my beast....

PS:- I am yet to hit a dyno of the 1/4 yet, but I am absolutely wrapped with it's current performance (regardless of whatever the numbers end up being). The thing lights traction up from a standing start to redline now! and with out traction on, it just lights the tyres up in first! This makes me happy!! (but the tyres.... not so happy...)

Cheers for you answers boys! Photoshoot is in just two weeks now!

 

California Air Resource Board. Or as I call them Car Atheist Retarded Bast#^ds!

 

I just read somewhere that they're dropping the 'C' and will be ARB, which means they may soon be taking their BS national.

Zip

 

Ya know, I just now noticed I hit 1000 posts recently. Wow.

Zip

 

Dear ALTA Gurus.....

Pardon me if this has been brought up before, I have tried to read through dozens of pages of questions to y'all, and might have missed this issue...

I have just modded my 2007 MCS Convertible (non R56) with a 15% pulley, and an ALTA V 2.0 CAI - with the Box Top option.

The sound (Whoopeeeee!) is fantastic, and the HP gains can be FELT AND HEARD (please tech-no-geeks - don't get technical on me here, I am being coy).

There are two issues though I thought you could address:

1. MY GAS MILEAGE NOW SUCKS! (I am getting HALF of what I used to! - and yes, I am a lead-foot, but always have been)

2. There seems to be a 'slight' pause when the accelerator is pressed, almost like a hesitation, and it is disconcerting.

I used to be able to press the pedal down a fraction of an inch, and get the tach needle moving, now I have to depress it at least an inch or two, before the 'gas' cuts in.

As I depress it, there is first a 'sucking' compressor type of sound, THEN it kicks in, almost as if there is 'slack' in the pedal-to-throttle connection??

I have driven a few hundred miles so far with these mods in place, and no changes have been noticable yet.

Also, I had driven a few hundred miles with JUST the 15% pulley, and did not have any problem - it only started AFTER I put the CAI in place, I just mentioned the 15% pulley, so you'd know all the mechanicals that I am dealing with here.

Any thoughts/advice?

-B

 

Larry: Haven't we covered this? :-) Call me to discuss further. Just want to be sure you and I are on the same page! Chat soon!

33NIM: Glad things are WAY better than before. What do you mean by overboost? are you hitting fuel cut? An FCD may be the answer, but I need MORE info. Cam timing, haven't heard of that. My apologies. PICS PICS PICS! Talk to you again very soon!

tavis1: +1

erickvonzipper: 1) Lets hope not! 2) congrats? Enjoy the drive!

B&D: Thank you for your purchase! Sorry you are having problems. I would be happy to help. These are not common issues (as I am sure you found in a search prior to posting). The gas mileage and the lack of throttle response are both VERY odd. And meaning no blame to us or you, it does seem more than coincidental. Lead foot or not (and having owned an H2 SUT) that is not right and not efficient. Jeff and I would both like more information so we can help you further. Can you e-mail me at adam@altaminiperformance.com with contact information? Thanks in advance!

Thanks NAM!

 

There are heaps of threads about "overboost" on here.... Apparently It's when the car runs higher than 18psi (and mine does now ) What happens is the traction control turns off! and you cant turn it back on with the switch. Turn the car off, then back on, and traction works fine again.
Apparently when the map sensor sees more than 18psi, it sends feedback back to the computer that tells it the car is "overboosting" and apparently shows an error code. It in turn disengages traction control and you are supposed to go to mini to fix the problem. Well, I have had all sorts of diagnostic gear on this thing and the tune definatly doesnt change when "overboost" occurs... It's just a pain in the ***!! (I like my DSC!!) I would normally consider some kind of FCD, but wont that then mean I will have **** around more to change the tune of the ecu?? (I have had now 7 different tunes, and still have detonation above 6k in third....)

PS - as soon as I have some good photos of the car I will send you a pile to the office email address!! I will be sure to plug you guys in the article!!

Cheers!

 

33NIM: Sorry if I missed something. I am going to get with Jeff (whom you have also been working with) and find out what is going on. He may be able to help both of us further. Thanks again!

 

Cheers Adam - I am not having a crack at you! If you search on NAM "overboost" there are plenty of threads about it.... It is not a major problem, just an annoyance. I would think the use of a FCD would fix the problem (as the comp would see lover boost readings).

See how you go anyway!!

Tahnks as always!!

 

33NIM,
Do you have any other fault lights (tire pressure, dsc, ABS, or SES light)? I have a similar problem (not a CIA) with all three lighting up at the same time. From what I have read and I believe mine prob is a sensor at either one of the wheels (DSC/Tire monitor/ABS) or the sensor on the steering wheel. Could be a faulty sensor on yours? Good luck and keep us updated,

...nevermind, I just read your post...4% crank with 17% and wired shut BPV. Now I understand why the overboost. Good luck

Frodo

 

Make sure you did not inadvertently disconnect any vacuum hoses during the install.