Drivetrain Installing M7 Ram Intake - issues
#27
OK! Here's my project for today. It will be a VERY low tech solution to the gap between the M7 scoop and the front of the IC (stock, GRS, as in my case, or any IC for that matter).
Are you ready? SELF-ADHESIVE DOOR SWEEP! No . . . really! I'm going to try attaching it to the bottom of the scoop from underneath. I'm concerned about the effect of engine heat, but I'm going to give it a try, anyway.
Off to the hardware store!!!
Are you ready? SELF-ADHESIVE DOOR SWEEP! No . . . really! I'm going to try attaching it to the bottom of the scoop from underneath. I'm concerned about the effect of engine heat, but I'm going to give it a try, anyway.
Off to the hardware store!!!
#30
Originally Posted by mhhoff
OK! Here's my project for today. It will be a VERY low tech solution to the gap between the M7 scoop and the front of the IC (stock, GRS, as in my case, or any IC for that matter).
Are you ready? SELF-ADHESIVE DOOR SWEEP! No . . . really! I'm going to try attaching it to the bottom of the scoop from underneath. I'm concerned about the effect of engine heat, but I'm going to give it a try, anyway.
Off to the hardware store!!!
Are you ready? SELF-ADHESIVE DOOR SWEEP! No . . . really! I'm going to try attaching it to the bottom of the scoop from underneath. I'm concerned about the effect of engine heat, but I'm going to give it a try, anyway.
Off to the hardware store!!!
#31
I just got a note from Peter at M7 indicating that he viewed this thread as being negative about the scoop, and indicating that I had significant installation problems.
I want to make it clear that I think that the Ram Air scoop is an excellent product - well-designed and well-made. The installation effort I put into it was simply to make it work better, as I had already done with my stock scoop.
I also want to make my position clear - that to get the most out of this product will require replacing the upper diverter piece (an easy job as my images show), and that both this and the stock scoop require that the slot between IC and scoop be closed with a flexible seal to work well.
I want to make it clear that I think that the Ram Air scoop is an excellent product - well-designed and well-made. The installation effort I put into it was simply to make it work better, as I had already done with my stock scoop.
I also want to make my position clear - that to get the most out of this product will require replacing the upper diverter piece (an easy job as my images show), and that both this and the stock scoop require that the slot between IC and scoop be closed with a flexible seal to work well.
#32
Originally Posted by OldRick
I also want to make my position clear - that to get the most out of this product will require replacing the upper diverter piece...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...3&postcount=28
#33
#36
There is a great deal of variation in the detailed shape of the body sheet metal of the MINI - it isn't Honda sheet metal quality by a long shot.
Also, while the stock hood scoop is quite flexible, the fiberglas ram air scoop replacement isn't.
The result of this, on my car, is that three weeks after installing it, one of the rear studs pulled out of the scoop. My guess is that this was from the strain of a) a bit of contact between scoop and bonnet near the middle, around the tab that the stock scoop fits into, and b) flexing of the hood when opening and closing.
I don't view this as a product defect, but as a learning experience in how to better install it.
The stud that pulled out left a clean hole, so I was able to glue it back in place with superglue, which is probably a better bond to the screw than the fiberlglas was.
When I reinstalled the scoop, this time I bent the tab and center of the hole in the bonnet down slightly, to avoid contact across the middle of the opening, and I inserted a thin rubber washer between the bonnet and the scoop, and a grommet on the inside of the bonnet before putting on the nuts only finger tight. I put some loctite blue on the exposed end of the studs to keep the nuts from loosening without making them hard to remove if necessary.
This isn't a complaint of any kind, just a suggestion as to how to best install the scoop on your MINI. Having a bit of flexibility in the mounting with the rubber washers and grommets will avoid potential future problems that could be caused if you bolt it down solidly on the bonnet.
Also, while the stock hood scoop is quite flexible, the fiberglas ram air scoop replacement isn't.
The result of this, on my car, is that three weeks after installing it, one of the rear studs pulled out of the scoop. My guess is that this was from the strain of a) a bit of contact between scoop and bonnet near the middle, around the tab that the stock scoop fits into, and b) flexing of the hood when opening and closing.
I don't view this as a product defect, but as a learning experience in how to better install it.
The stud that pulled out left a clean hole, so I was able to glue it back in place with superglue, which is probably a better bond to the screw than the fiberlglas was.
When I reinstalled the scoop, this time I bent the tab and center of the hole in the bonnet down slightly, to avoid contact across the middle of the opening, and I inserted a thin rubber washer between the bonnet and the scoop, and a grommet on the inside of the bonnet before putting on the nuts only finger tight. I put some loctite blue on the exposed end of the studs to keep the nuts from loosening without making them hard to remove if necessary.
This isn't a complaint of any kind, just a suggestion as to how to best install the scoop on your MINI. Having a bit of flexibility in the mounting with the rubber washers and grommets will avoid potential future problems that could be caused if you bolt it down solidly on the bonnet.
#37
Great idea, OldRick! My M7 Ram Intake was installed (by me) with rubber grommets on the bonnet holes through which the scoop bolts protrude. Used lock washers, and Loctite. That sucker is less flexible than the bonnet for sure, so a little flexible mounting is advisable. Mine has been hanging in there for quite some time (mine was number 11 built or thereabouts, but I think you had yours even earlier--hence longer!)
phil
phil
#38
Greatings......
We have had the same experience as Rick, with the rear bolts. It's very
easy to over tighten the bolt and it will consequntly pull out of the composite.
After looking at the bolt CF/Glass interface we have now added a wider steel
insert that will spread the load over a larger surface thus minimizing the possibillity of premature pull-out.....
I will be more then happy to uppgrade your scoop if you had the above problem at no cost what so ever.
peter
Team M7
562-608-8123
We have had the same experience as Rick, with the rear bolts. It's very
easy to over tighten the bolt and it will consequntly pull out of the composite.
After looking at the bolt CF/Glass interface we have now added a wider steel
insert that will spread the load over a larger surface thus minimizing the possibillity of premature pull-out.....
I will be more then happy to uppgrade your scoop if you had the above problem at no cost what so ever.
peter
Team M7
562-608-8123
#40
#41
OldRick,
I had the same thing happen to my scoop last night, when I got to work I noticed that one side of the scoop was a little high so when I took it off there it was the stud had pulled out of the scoop. Did you reinforce the stud with something or should I say studs, or did you just glue it back? Just wondering because if it held on with just glueing then that is what I am going to do to fix mine. Your reply would be very helpful.
I had the same thing happen to my scoop last night, when I got to work I noticed that one side of the scoop was a little high so when I took it off there it was the stud had pulled out of the scoop. Did you reinforce the stud with something or should I say studs, or did you just glue it back? Just wondering because if it held on with just glueing then that is what I am going to do to fix mine. Your reply would be very helpful.
#42
Glueing
I have not seen or experienced this problem. However from my experience and knowledge with fiberglass and resins, I would suggest that the stud be reglued with Epoxy adhesive. I would even suggest that you get a longer that 5 minute epoxy to do the reglue. The longer set time adhesive tend to be less brittle then 5 minute types. Be careful and don't get any adhesive on your skin or in your eyes.
JS
JS
#44
I just glued mine back in with superglue. There was still a fiberglas "collar" around the head of the stud, and it came out clean, so superglue, which is very non-viscous, seems to have worked fine, and makes a better bond to the metal stud than most epoxies.
Be sure to re-install with some rubber washers or grommets to reduce strain on the studs.
Be sure to re-install with some rubber washers or grommets to reduce strain on the studs.
#47