Mark,

From what I've heard, each mini is different. I started hearing a ping right when I put on the pulley and colder plugs (that was my first mod) then it kept escalating when I added my intake and MTH software. MTH has tried to send me some "detuned" maps for a lower octane which has helped a bit but hasn't solved the problem completely. Its def. not as fun to drive, I can tell you that. Randy Webb said he has seen this quite a bit with MTH, but to MTH's credit, this was happening before I added the software. So who's to say if I add the unichip or giac if this would still be an issue. Minirox mentioned he solved his pinging problem with Dinan S5 software, but I'm not sure what octane he is/was running.

 

I should have said "...as a do-it-yourself octane booster." Clearly there is a point of diminishing returns - you probably don't want to run 20-30% toluene and destroy your emissions control on a street car, and the stuff is a lot more costly than gasoline.

 

Thanks, "hS".

Another thought that occurred: has anyone documented improvements using the m7 180-degree thermostat? Or is cooling only effective if actually focused on the charge hitting the combustion chamber?

How about insulating/isolating exhaust and intake (with the "wrap" mods, for example). Has THAT helped anyone? (or NOT?)

How about some other CA people? What kind of experiences have you had?

Thanks again.

 

I read an article sometime last year that had a test of toluene vs other octane boosters. First off, they found over ~30% toluene doesn't help. They discovered that toluene works about as well as regular octane booster (for cheaper) but neither really has a dramatic effect on octane. It's been too long since I read the article so I won't go spitting out numbers but even at 30% toluene, they didn't get the octane up more than a few points.

 

I'm curious after reading through all this... at what octane level does having extra really matter?

For example.. clearly, the 91 oct stuff many of us are subjected to in this country obviously hinders performance. Where I live, a few places have 92, but most have good 93 octane. (Norfolk, Virginia) I haven't ever noticed any of the issues you guys are talking about really. If I found a place locally that had 100 octane race gas... would I really notice a benefit from 93? When is enough octane enough for the mini? If 100 is good... is 150 better (if there was such an animal)?

And Obehave... know of any local places selling the hot stuff? I'd run mine on the next cold day we have with a tank full to see if it matters whatsoever above 93. If, as Dr. Obnxs says, is experiencing a 60% loss from mods on 91... we might be able to determine if the better gas makes a difference over 93. Then perhaps, the fellas in CA can add whatever works best/cheapest to add the 2 octane points, if that's all they need.

 

is to see if you're getting timing retard. Lots of ways to do it..... If you're not, you're getting all there is to have. If it's backing off, there's more to be had from the tune that's running.

Matt

 

Here's a great FAQ re octane, anti-knock, and other gasoline stuff. Must reading for those who want to work this and don't already know. I'm not a chemist, but thought I should know more so I Googled this and got lucky.

enjoy...(see number 6 especially, but the rest is interesting too)
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part3/

 

We use 2 headgasket as a sandwich to reduce the compression ration down to 7,8:1 and you get rid of the timing retard due to pinging in the first cylinder.
This works only on a highly modified engine you don´t loose power.

 

I think that we will see smoother lines on the dyno at high rpm. I know on my last run and I'm sure others as well, that above 5800 it started to get a little weird. I'm sure it had to do with timing! I would like to run some 104 next time on the dyno and see if it smooths out any.

I'm not Obe BUT at military and Indian River there is a Sunoco that has 100 unleaded and 110 leaded at $5/gal. Performance Unlimited in Norfolk has 104 at $7 a gal. I also Priced out Xylene at the paint store at $14 a gal. So the way I see it is just get the race fuel to boost octane levels! -- Johan

 

The only one I knew of on the Peninsula is now closed.
Southside? I got nuttin'

 

Yea. We all got fuel dumping over 6K. Heat wasn't helping our runs either.

I'd like to show up there running on fumes, do 3 runs and then dump 10 gals in the tank and run some camparos.

Maybe when Ben gets his exhaust??

 

Just read the article. IF you use the stuff in the little bottles, I'd agree. But 20-30% toluene seemed to give about 5 octane improvement. True, that's about three gallons a tank, but if the stuff is less than $8/gallon, it's cheaper than the 100 octane!

But I don't know at what octane number my car really behaves. I'd guess a mix of 100 and 91 would probably be the best, and the cheapest as well.

One of the other things I' ve been thinking about, is how the MON rating differs from a 7,000 RPM full load boosted motor. They aren't exactly the same....

Matt

 

WRT the timing retard issue, if i have the MTH tuner at the moment, and install the pulley, and get a new remap for the 15 pulley, the ECU won't retard timing will it?

 

doctor, math thyself

tolulene at 114 octane and xylene at 117, both at ~$8 gallon, are both cheaper octane bumps than 100 or 104 race gas.

 

...more like four gallons/tank to get to 95 octane, and everyone keeps sliding past the part in the article about destroying seals and cats and emissions equipment and never passing smog again...
6^)

 

I don't know if these issues are due to beating my car for 67k, or the crappy gas in the area, or what. I've talked with people in SoCal that don't have my problems, or at least the same severity...

Think of this more as a work in progress!

Matt

 

But the organics are just another component of gas. And like they say, the 100 octane is 20%+ of tolulene.....

Matt

 

50% 91 octane and 50% 100 octane worked great for me. Good power and NO ping.

 

this will be step one. But I sent off my BiM-COM for someone to test a GRS IC, so I won't have quantitiative results for a bit. I'll probably wait until the thing is back before doing the switch.....

Matt

 

You have an upgraded coil don't you.
Will you be trying different plug gaps as well?

 

But the coil will probably come out.... Don't think I really need 10% more voltage, and the 0,4mm electrode on the Densos reduce the voltage needed to fire...

But I have yet to see clear information on what's good for gap! I've seen 0.035 up to 0.080!

Matt

 

Which is reaason enough to go with a blend of the 100 octane racing unleaded - the distributor is warranting it to NOT screw up the fuel/emission control system. If there are any problems, the distributor is on the hook to repair/replace, not you.

 

minimc and I both farted around with gaps quite a while back( Dec '03). He being the braver or more adventurous went to .065. He settled on .055 at that time and was happy last I asked. That was with the Pilo coil.

BTW. I went to .045 and stayed there. And yes I was very careful to keep the anode perpendicular to the electrode.

Just some history for you to chew.

 

I'll probably just gap them for somewhere around there to keep life from getting to complicated...

Matt

 

So, my questions earlier were just too stupid to acknowledge, or what?:

"Another thought that occurred: has anyone documented improvements using the m7 180-degree thermostat? Or is cooling only effective if actually focused on the charge hitting the combustion chamber?

How about insulating/isolating exhaust and intake (with the "wrap" mods, for example). Has THAT helped anyone? (or NOT?)

How about some other CA people? What kind of experiences have you had?"

"Don't know." or "Don't care." or "Get bent." are all acceptable replies.