Having thus far taken a conservative tact with my modifications in favor of retaining gas mileage and reliability, I'm thinking of adjusting my bypass valve (if needed) instead of replacing it or rerouting the vacuum lines to make it close sooner.

Here's my question to those of you who've taken the plunge and done your valves. What are the pitfalls to be avoided when dismantling your engine and making the actual adjustment. I've read some of the threads and it looks a little daunting.

TIA,

Richard

 

I'd reccommend the VGS mod, $5 bucks in rubber lines and be sure everything is tight, 45 min. later (first time I can do it in 15min now) it makes a night and day differance and is esy to revert back to stock. Haven't yet adjust the valve itself but would like to know whats entailed and what results are expected.

 

What exactly is the VGS mod? Where can I get the parts? ( If I want to do it.)

TIA,
William

 

Don't start...or you'll end up with this...

 

Don't drop bolts, they go the same place socks do.

Really though it isn't a hard job. Reusing the oetiker clamps is the hard part.

I did the bypass adjustment and the VGS at the same time. Nice difference.
The VGS alone is simple.

 

Make sure you tighten the bolts holding the bypass valve well as they are not exactly a piece of cake to get to. I lost one after a few thousand miles. I ended up using locktite to make sure they were on well this time. (though I think I just forgot to go back for the final tighten down on one of them once I got them snug)

 

Haha.. great advice... Nice setup you have....

 

Where can I find more about the $5 vgs mod? Is there a how to somewhere?

 

Read through a lot of this thread, it's really helpful:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=38268

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=38268

 

hahaha... too slow

 

I thought about adjusting my by-pass valve then thought, what the hell, If I'm going to all that work to remove the B/P valve, why not just replace it with the Detroit Tuned B/P valve. Cost is about $120.00.

As it turned out, the alignment of the oem butterfly valve was spot on but, the spring seemed very week. After installing the Detroit Tuned B/P valve, butt dyno says there is a major difference.

 

The only thing putting me off the Detroit tuned valve is the hit to gas mileage.... can you let us know what the difference is? I just paid $42 to fill my Mini! :-(

 

Apexer-
Glad to hear you're happy with the Detroit-Tuned BP Valve. My CR/W '03 MCS had slight stumble when I bought it last Fall from the original owner. It wasn't until I took it to Global MINI in Atlanta for service when they flashed the ECU and its had yo-yo ever since! I have no hope that Global or MINI will do anything to really solve this issue on the early models. This coming week I'm taking my MINI in to Harrison Motorsport to have the Detroit -Tuned BP Valve installed. While it's there I'm having a 15% Alta pulley and Alta CAI installed. I'm not too worried about any loss of gas mileage, I don't do a huge amount of driving and the idea of having strong, steady acceleration versus yo-yo stuttering, is well worth a few less mpg's.
BTW, my next mod is probably new exhaust, how do you like the Magnaflow?
Terry

 

I am sure the DT BPV does not alter the MPG much. I would believe the foot would be the MPG culprit.

 

haha damn.....by one minute too

 

is just a "tuned" BPV and a much stiffer spring. It will open with higher vacuum, and won't open as far. You'll loose somewhat north of no MPG, and somewhat less than 2 MPG.

Search on "Ryephix". The DT BPV uses Ryephix 2.

You can get part way there by redoing your own valve, and stretching the spring a bit. Think of it as part way from stock to what you get from Detroit Tuned.

It's not much work, but watch for thread lock on the stop screw. A heat gun or blow drier may help soften it up.

Matt

 

I installed the DT bypass valve and the VGS at the same time. I could not be happier with both. My car pulls harder then ever. I know longer have the Yo-Yo's.

The only draw back is learning to take off from a dead stop. It toke about a week to get used to how hard the car pulls from a dead stop. It is know longer a problem and I wound have done it different if I had to do all over.

LongBoard

 

Magnaflow... God Help Me.. I Do Love It So

 

I'll second that.

 

Note to self about DT valve because...I laid down some sweet rubber this morning, have not done that in a long time, maybe since high school. Probably because of some great ethiopian coffee I made, not a DT bypass valve.

Started out as a slight chirp, and like an artist in the moment I went with it...it really made my day before sitting an researching 100 year old city utility easements all day:impatient

 

you may be able to get an allen wrench onto the set screw that adjusts the stop without taking the valve off. Give it a try, and see if your boost improves. If not, then you should look elsewhere....

I was under the hood today and noticed that....

Matt

 

YOW! tally the $ on that engine bay! thats why i still think this is the nicest car on the forums.

 

I just did the VGS and the only thing that busted my chops was the (&$%# IC boots. Maybe I was just an idiot but they seemed stupid tough to get on and off.

However, the bloody fingers and hurting back was VERY worth the gains in take off that I can already feel.

As far as MPG... well, I didn't really buy a MCS for it's fuel efficiency... if I was concerned about that I would have gotten the MC.

Forget an auto parts store, you can get the vacuum line at a Farm and Fleet, and a really good brass T at Petco. (yes... the pet store... the air pump hoses are 5/32ID... but don't use those hoses in your MINI, just the brass T)

 

First time was a pain for me, now it's no big deal.

Also, the VGS sees full SC boost, so make sure that the fittings are tight enough to not come off. I was paranoid and wiretied them after I did the mod.

Matt