Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain IC Airflow Question

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  #251  
Old 08-11-2006 | 08:00 AM
agranger's Avatar
agranger
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Why not just eliminate the intercooler all together. We did this engine swap for $98.72... and the factory warranty still applies to all components!

 
  #252  
Old 08-11-2006 | 08:07 AM
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hornguys
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From: Cumming, GA
Originally Posted by stevecars60
52o this morning, with the 24s the car starts just as it did with the stock & the IK22s. So far 300m & this car realy likes the 24s best. Only time will tell but so far, it's all good.
Steve,

I'm interested in 24s as well.

When you say the car likes 24s best, in what way do you mean?
 
  #253  
Old 08-11-2006 | 08:10 AM
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MSFITOY
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For what it's worth, I've switched to NGK Irridium...much more afordable, thicker Irridium tip, easy to find...I use an equivalent to Denso 24s...
 
  #254  
Old 08-11-2006 | 08:50 AM
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obehave
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From: Hampton, VA
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
For what it's worth, I've switched to NGK Irridium...much more afordable, thicker Irridium tip, easy to find...I use an equivalent to Denso 24s...

And that equivalent is....?????
 
  #255  
Old 08-11-2006 | 09:58 AM
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MSFITOY
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Originally Posted by obehave
And that equivalent is....?????
I'll check the plug numbers next time I pull them out...I tried them after a friend at NGK turn me on to them...
 
  #256  
Old 08-11-2006 | 10:01 AM
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obehave
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Originally Posted by MSFITOY
I'll check the plug numbers next time I pull them out...I tried them after a friend at NGK turn me on to them...
Can't ask for more.
 
  #257  
Old 08-11-2006 | 10:03 AM
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MSFITOY
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Probably should check them anyway...OMG...it's been a week already
 
  #258  
Old 08-11-2006 | 10:33 AM
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haulinS
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if your talking about an equivalent heat range, there is a chart here that gives equivalent heat range plugs for different manfr's.

Originally Posted by obehave
And that equivalent is....?????
 
  #259  
Old 08-11-2006 | 10:45 AM
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stevecars60
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From: Northampton MA
Originally Posted by hornguys
Steve,

I'm interested in 24s as well.

When you say the car likes 24s best, in what way do you mean?
After running the 22s for a year, just wanted to try something different in the terrible heat we were having. To my suprise the car likes them better, even at 52f it starts better. Overall, for this car, this is the plug of choice.
1 thing that is weak with the Denso is the crush washer, the plugs don't like to stay tight. The NKG is the plug we raced the shifters with & they never lost their TQ. Msfitoy may be on to something with the NGK. There has been some talk about heads loosing their plugs & some think it's the thread size, pitch, whatever but with the shifters, the Denso was prone loose crush on the washer making the plug loose ( we measured the washers many times - loose a tenth or two - with our non shifter, KT100 Yahama, the power would drop, like a stone ). Why this happens is one of those unanswerable questions. The good news is the crush will hold after a time ( 3 - 4 TQs ). The NGK, having a thicker wire could be a plus.... or not. In days past, early 60s, we used Champion N2Gs to race with, fine wire, very cold, wore out quickly and expensive in the day.
 
  #260  
Old 08-11-2006 | 10:49 AM
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MSFITOY
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From: Greensboro, NC
Originally Posted by haulinS
if your talking about an equivalent heat range, there is a chart here that gives equivalent heat range plugs for different manfr's.
Yes thanks...I remember there's an 8 in there but there's something like 6-7 numbers total...very confusing...
 
  #261  
Old 08-11-2006 | 11:09 AM
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hornguys
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From: Cumming, GA
Don't forget to post the model numbers for the NGK equivalent to IK-24.

I've had Densos for over 50,000 miles and loved em.

But the colder range (and the NGK staying put) looks promising with all this hot weather.

Worst case is I'll just install the Densos 24s.
 
  #262  
Old 08-11-2006 | 11:12 AM
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obehave
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From: Hampton, VA
Originally Posted by haulinS
if your talking about an equivalent heat range, there is a chart here that gives equivalent heat range plugs for different manfr's.

Excellent

Getting closer
 
  #263  
Old 08-11-2006 | 02:58 PM
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Dr Obnxs
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Electrode diameter...

smaller diameters need less voltage for the spark to jump the gap. Has to do with the field gradients near the tips. What sucks is how fragile they can be...

Matt

ps, good sparkplug reference.... http://www.sparkplugs.com/
 
  #264  
Old 08-11-2006 | 04:41 PM
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herbie hind
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Originally Posted by motor on
I think its suffers more from the general heat soak of the giant hulk of metal the releases heat upward. That said I don't think a shield would hurt it; can we make this next weeks project?
why didn't they just put a bump under the scoop? thereby raising the intercooler further away from the (hulk) then a shield could have room to be effective by allowing air under it and over it . if you slap it right on the engine i think it might just become part of the (hulk). but i 'm no mensa member so....
 
  #265  
Old 08-11-2006 | 04:45 PM
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herbie hind
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
and the highest pressure wins.. Kind of. If you're into electronics, think of parrallel resistors.

If you aren't into electronics, sorry for the confusion.

Matt
wow take me back man !!! let's see two of equal value equal one of half their values. yeah that about says it .
 
  #266  
Old 08-11-2006 | 05:01 PM
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herbie hind
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Originally Posted by BFG9000
There are intake manifold thermal spacers for other cars--look like a real thick plastic intake gasket to reduce the heat conducting up from the head. Or even plastic manifolds. Way, way too many BTUs for little heatsinks (airflow issue again), but water sprayers through the intercooler core and onto the intake would help a lot because water's latent heat of vaporization is a very impressive 2260 kJ.kg^-1.

And if pressure was reduced in the engine compartment, air would literally be sucked through the intercooler at speed, with a side benefit being more air would be sucked through the radiator as well. The easiest way to do this is a lower airdam; maybe even a deformable bristle-type one that nearly touches the ground. More pressure in front of it, means less pressure behind it and thus more airflow through any existing openings like the grille and scoop... dead simple, isn't it?

Of course the car must be moving for this to work, but it should be no worse than stock when stopped. A shield blocking the bottom front of the intercooler would mean that, when stopped, hot air from around the exhaust header would rise through the intercooler rather than air from the hot radiator. I don't know which would be hotter, but assume the BMW engineers did their homework.
lower thermostat from m7? reprogram ecu to turn fan on sooner? maybe? also heard of a guy on m2 raising his i/c slightly allowing for better air flow underneath.
 
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