The Bad:

I had to modify the heat sheild so the o2 sensor would fit in the pre cat bung.

I used an o2 simulator, but it did not work, still got SES lights (and still do even with the cat installed.)

That said...

1. Without the cat, it is HELLA louder with the Milltek exhaust. With the cat installed, it is just slightly louder than the Milltek is with the stock header. Without the cat, when you are getting on it, it is insanely loud, like going to get you a ticket loud. At a 50mph cruise in 5th youd never know it was there. At 80, you notice it a little more than the stock header. Without the cat, the progammed backfires are Snap, Crackly POP! Very nice snaps and pops. If you drive through a bad section of town, people might think its a drive by.

Conclusion: Install a cat, you'll be legal, help the environment and quiet!

2. Power. Lots more down low. The power increase is noticible, don't expect a pulley mod type of difference, but it feels more free to run the tach now.

3. I updated the MTH to take advantage of the header and 380cc injectors while I was at it. Cant really comment, except for the hard start issue is gone (when I added the 380's it sometimes had to be cranked a little longer to fire up)

All in all I am pretty happy for under $500 its not a bad option. Build quality was excellent for its price. Hopefully I dont end up with problems with the flex joint like others have had.

Total Cost: $490

$260 w/shipping for header
http://www.piloracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=mrheader2

$160 w/ship for cat (Random Technologies)
http://dezod.com/pd_random_technology_8100_series_universal_convert er225.cfm)
$40 to have flanges installed on cat @ Midas

$30 for O2 sim that wasnt needed.

Total would be: $490 if I included the o2 sim that would have not been needed if I had order cat ahead of time.

I think this is a great mod for the money, the engine definitly feels more eager to climb the tach.

 

Good to hear. Do you have the older one piece design or the 2 piece? I have the 2 piece which is at the coaters right now. I am picking it up and installing on Wednesay along with a Borls system (louder of the two). i am a little scared now.

Here'es a tip for the 02...it worked for me on a previous vehicle. I made the bung deeper so the sensor was barely in the pipe and it worked. No codes thrown. Try that. Actaully I am going to make one when i do my install and if it works I will make one for you, too. I will PM you.

Seann

 

Can you show any pics of this setup??? Thanks!

 

I'm looking forward to the bung extension results. Since the second o2 sensor is set to detect different temperatures post-cat (converted to electrical current and sent to the ECU), I'd be surprised if the depth of the sensor in the exhaust pipe can produce enough difference in temperatures to fool the ECU into not throwing the SES light. But this is an empirical question that you will be able to answer, I presume.

cheers,

 

I have not reattached the o2 sensor yet, but it should be just fine when I do, I just havent had time to put it in. If you can deal with the SES light, the second o2 sensor is nothing but a sensor to cry that your cat aint working.

 

Update, my flex joint is leaking like no tomorrow. I have emailed Pilo racing, so we will see how it goes.

 

Sorry to hear that. Seems like it's one of those necessary evils...

Some prefer this header over the OBX cause it has a flex pipe, but if they keep leaking, how valuable are they?