Drivetrain installed engine damper, what do you guys think....
#53
Yes, more so on the manual transmission than the CVT though I imagine. Once I get a bracket from Partsman I will be able to test this out on a friend's 03 MC.
#55
i didnt have all the right tools. all i used for my work was a 'monkey wrench and 17mm long as wrench. pain in the butt to install without tools but you will find ways, trust me. not rocket scientist installation nor north korean nuclear test but as Shoe said 'slowly and carefully'.
#56
I'll probably do this after Xmas... Most of my free cash is tied up in presents I need to buy this month and next, but I always have extra cash after Jan. 1. Hopefully I can find this thread after the holidays.
Unless we can get enough interest up for another group buy, of course... (hint hint).
Unless we can get enough interest up for another group buy, of course... (hint hint).
#58
in case you drop your nut or bolt down to the engine tray, like i did (kicking myself so badly for dropping one bolt down the engine bay ) all you have to do is just bang on the bottom tray and it will fall out onto the ground, thank God.
i would think having all the tools would be perfect but you will manage. our brains will figure a way and your fingers will come into play.
#59
#60
#62
#63
#64
Here's a quick review:
1. Packaging: Excellent
2. Craftmanship: Very good
3. Instructions: Very good
4. Fitment: Good, shell is(?) is not (?) barely clearing the chassis.
5. Function: Very good, but was hoping to rid herky-jerky but still inducible...
6. Overall satisfaction: Very good, feels like when you change bushings.
7. Would I recommend?: Yes, for those looking for a sporty, precise feel.
8. Ease of installation: Not hard, but not easy either. It's kind of tricky
as you're trying to keep everything from falling. Definitely a plus for
people with smaller hands, remove that oil dipstick out of the way, and
use masking tape to hold the bell.
9. Recommendation for user:
a. Use tape as my picts below; you'll thank me for it.
b. You must have a small monkey wrench or shubby 17mm box wrench.
c. Magnet tool definitely a plus.
d. I mounted mine in reverse orientation so that length adjustment is easier.
10. Recommendation for manufacturer:
a. If you can find a 17mm bolt with allen key in the center of the bolt
(like the strut piston shaft) this would make it a lot easier to mount the
front bolt/nut... but if that's going to increase cost, never mind!
b. The shell could be maybe 2mm smaller in diameter. it was the same
way despite the orientation of the shell.
Alright, here's the tools i used... the safety glasses with LED lights
comes in very handy.
here's wat came in the box (less instructions, downloaded earlier)...
here's how i taped the bell so it doesn't fall off while installing...
here's how i taped up the other bell so that it doesn't fall off either...
here's the finished product...check out the color match with the
IndyBlue.
I fired up the car and immediately noticed a difference...more
motor noise into the cabin sort of like a racecar. (just a side effect).
Then took it out for a spin. The herky-jerky is still inducible, but the
throttle input is more direct as if i installed a engine damper. duh...
It's an overall sporty response.
1. Packaging: Excellent
2. Craftmanship: Very good
3. Instructions: Very good
4. Fitment: Good, shell is(?) is not (?) barely clearing the chassis.
5. Function: Very good, but was hoping to rid herky-jerky but still inducible...
6. Overall satisfaction: Very good, feels like when you change bushings.
7. Would I recommend?: Yes, for those looking for a sporty, precise feel.
8. Ease of installation: Not hard, but not easy either. It's kind of tricky
as you're trying to keep everything from falling. Definitely a plus for
people with smaller hands, remove that oil dipstick out of the way, and
use masking tape to hold the bell.
9. Recommendation for user:
a. Use tape as my picts below; you'll thank me for it.
b. You must have a small monkey wrench or shubby 17mm box wrench.
c. Magnet tool definitely a plus.
d. I mounted mine in reverse orientation so that length adjustment is easier.
10. Recommendation for manufacturer:
a. If you can find a 17mm bolt with allen key in the center of the bolt
(like the strut piston shaft) this would make it a lot easier to mount the
front bolt/nut... but if that's going to increase cost, never mind!
b. The shell could be maybe 2mm smaller in diameter. it was the same
way despite the orientation of the shell.
Alright, here's the tools i used... the safety glasses with LED lights
comes in very handy.
here's wat came in the box (less instructions, downloaded earlier)...
here's how i taped the bell so it doesn't fall off while installing...
here's how i taped up the other bell so that it doesn't fall off either...
here's the finished product...check out the color match with the
IndyBlue.
I fired up the car and immediately noticed a difference...more
motor noise into the cabin sort of like a racecar. (just a side effect).
Then took it out for a spin. The herky-jerky is still inducible, but the
throttle input is more direct as if i installed a engine damper. duh...
It's an overall sporty response.
#66
#67
Ken, if you remove the bell from between the block and the damper, it won't hit/rub anywhere. The way you have it moves the damper closer to the frame, with potential to rub.
Thanks for taking the time to post your input, and I'm glad you like it.
Thanks for taking the time to post your input, and I'm glad you like it.
#68
i don't think it's rubbing... it would make metallic rattling noise if it did, right?
#69
#70
^^ ok, but i just followed instructions...
who made this product anyway? Shoe, was that you or Partsman?
things like this **** me off when i follow instructions and later told
that i did something wrong.
#71
You didn't do anything wrong and no need to get pissed off.
MCSa owners will need the second bell washer on the engine block for sure since the engine is moved over towards the passenger side, thus causing the damper body to hit the belt tensioner.
Some 6-spd owners have mentioned the fact that the belt tensioner is rather close to the damper body and so I included a spare washer for them to use on the engine block.
You don't necessarily have to use it on the block side but by using it you will clear the belt tensioner. Partsman was just trying to say that by using the engine block washer you might have the passenger side frame touch the belt tensioner.
In any case, just run it for a while. I have had zero complaints of any serious rattling/rubbing/noise. The biggest compaliner is myself - but it's due to all the gaskets in my UUC exhaust having rusted away!
MCSa owners will need the second bell washer on the engine block for sure since the engine is moved over towards the passenger side, thus causing the damper body to hit the belt tensioner.
Some 6-spd owners have mentioned the fact that the belt tensioner is rather close to the damper body and so I included a spare washer for them to use on the engine block.
You don't necessarily have to use it on the block side but by using it you will clear the belt tensioner. Partsman was just trying to say that by using the engine block washer you might have the passenger side frame touch the belt tensioner.
In any case, just run it for a while. I have had zero complaints of any serious rattling/rubbing/noise. The biggest compaliner is myself - but it's due to all the gaskets in my UUC exhaust having rusted away!
#73
Ken, sorry. I didn't mean to imply that you did anything wrong.
#4 in your post you questioned if the shell is or is not barely clearing the chassis.
I just wanted to point out that by using the bell on the block side will move the damper closer to the frame and possibly rub.
I don't have one there, and I have clearance all the way around the damper body.
#4 in your post you questioned if the shell is or is not barely clearing the chassis.
I just wanted to point out that by using the bell on the block side will move the damper closer to the frame and possibly rub.
I don't have one there, and I have clearance all the way around the damper body.
#74
Ken, sorry. I didn't mean to imply that you did anything wrong.
#4 in your post you questioned if the shell is or is not barely clearing the chassis.
I just wanted to point out that by using the bell on the block side will move the damper closer to the frame and possibly rub.
I don't have one there, and I have clearance all the way around the damper body.
#4 in your post you questioned if the shell is or is not barely clearing the chassis.
I just wanted to point out that by using the bell on the block side will move the damper closer to the frame and possibly rub.
I don't have one there, and I have clearance all the way around the damper body.
about this. the install itself isn't hard but pretty clumsy not to drop parts into
the abyss. it's just a pita if i had to do rework. i mean, i followed
instructions on that part... things should work properly, right?
ill try the adjustments if it does endup rubbing the chassis.
btw, who makes this product?
#75
shoe- on your instructions, why do you have the metal plate go on
the top of the frame? I put mine below the frame as the torque would
be pressed from the bottom up when throttle-on, no? engine would
try to spin the opposing direction of the tires (?). now i can't remember
which direction the motor spins with the gearbox...
I also used the washer on the top as i had plenty of tread on the
nut, plus i didn't want to damage the opening. i know this part
your instructions are different from what i did, but i personally
think the plate should go under the frame. i think im going to
ask GreatBear too...
the top of the frame? I put mine below the frame as the torque would
be pressed from the bottom up when throttle-on, no? engine would
try to spin the opposing direction of the tires (?). now i can't remember
which direction the motor spins with the gearbox...
I also used the washer on the top as i had plenty of tread on the
nut, plus i didn't want to damage the opening. i know this part
your instructions are different from what i did, but i personally
think the plate should go under the frame. i think im going to
ask GreatBear too...