I was thinking, reading over the install instructions:

Why not tie thin monofiliment line to the bolts (near the head) and around the nut, as well as around the washers prior to puzzle-fitting everything? That way, if (when, in my case) you drop parts down into the frame, you can fish them out again. Worst case with monofiliment, if you can't reach in and snip the line after the threads are engaged, the line should crush out when tightened, right?

In any case, thanks for the install notes, Kenchan!

 

I brought the product to the table as a Vendor.

Partsman is helping with fabricating custom brackets for the 2002/early 2003 cars that have the fitment issue.

 

Don't forget, I showed you how to mount it with no brackets.

 

FYI Kenchan in the instructions it states the following:

"If you have a MCSa (MCS Automatic transmission), please use the 2nd bell washer here on the block side. This will push the damper out a little in order to clear the belt tensioner."

And no, Partsman I did not forget.

 

It's a bit easier to install the plate on top of the frame. I tried to make the instructions as easy as possible. People have commented to me that they've done this different or that different...which is great...Because I just have one way of how to mount it and if people find that another slightly different way works better for them, then that's just fine as well.

Whether it's on top or on the bottom doesn't really matter since that entire area will only be as strong as the weakest component. The plate is there to reinforce the area as a precaution. I was running the damper without a plate for a few thousand miles and had no issues. I just thought I would be proactive and supply the bracket to ease any doubts about the stability of the area. It's fine with or without the plate. We're not talking about 500HP here.

 

the magnet tool will come in handy if you were to drop that bell or
nut or washer or bolt, but the trick is not to drop it from the beginning
which is pretty tricky but do-able.

np, im just a regular joe (ken) trying something out!!

 

ahh, interesting product, partsman!

btw, mine's missing those black tread lock looking black washers that's
shown in the instruction picts (that goes on the damper itself). im don't think i
need it, but just wanted to note.

 

well, from my perspective, what it didn't say is what the confusion was.
"for MCS with MT don't use the bell on the motor side"

i think there should be diagrams showing each of the different tranny
cars how to mount each end of the link to the motor and to the frame
in a layer form.

1. for coopers MT do this on motor side, do this on frame side.
2. for coopers AT do this on motor side, do this on frame side.
3. for mcs MT do this on motor side, do this on frame side.
4. for mcs AT do this on motor side, do this on frame side.
5. for early coopers MT do this on motor side, do this on frame side.
6. for early mcs MT do this on motor side, do this on frame side.
7. for early coopers AT do this on motor side, do this on frame side.

that would help a lot. i know after you install so many of these you
tend to forget wat you did as it becomes easier. the point is, im
taking the time to write all this out to you to make it easier for your
customers and perhaps gain more interest.

 

you can make the instructions easier by showing illustrations in layers.
thanks for the input on the frame plate. i'll just keep it as-is for now. but
i bet partsman is thinking..'that's why he doesn't have much clearance
between the shell and frame.'

Anyone know which way the motor rocks at throttle-on? is it reversed
to the tire rotation or the same direction?

 

All opinions welcome.

Thanks for your input. I will amend the instructions to clarify the use of the second bell washer.

But just to reiterate, it is completely optional for all manual transmissions and absolutely necessary for the automatic MCS. There is quite a bit of variation in terms of the physcial setup of each car - and for clearance remember we are talking about 2-5mm so any bit of variance makes a big difference.

I'm not sure if I've had a customer with a MC CVT yet but if so it would be great to hear from them as well.

 

shoe- pictures are worth a thousand words. there's too many words
already, just include illustrations for the different layers and you'll do great.

 

Just wanted to say I received mine yesterday, and it looks awesome (it's in red)!!! I haven't had the chance to install it yet, but will hopefully have it on tonight, or tomorrow. I'm sure you'll have another happy customer

Thanks guys!!!

 

This is true. If you put the plate on top you won't have any issues with clearance.

 

This picture sums it up for me.

 

You're welcome. Looking forward to hearing your feedback.

 

I have read that it rotates towards the back of the car which makes it beneficial to have a damper that is as parallel to the engine (ground) as you can get.

That said, I haven't revved the engine and watched it, nor am I an engine damping expert.

mb

 

And to give credit where credit is due.....

 

Thanks. It's actually Shoe's product, my method.

 

Hey, I got one of those in my mailbox yesterday!

Approximately how long does the install take? It is getting dark early now with maybe only an hour or so of light after I get home from work and I do not have good lighting in my garage yet sice we just moved and only have the single bulb provided by the builder. Should I try it after work or wait until the weekend?

 

oh, i see. thanks for your help.

shoe- thanks for the confirmation on the motor rock direction. now i
feel better that i put the plate under the frame. ill take it out
for a spin again this morning and follow up on another impressions
review after the real test drive and also the concern on the clearance.

nice suit case worth of sales. im not saying you specifically, but don't
let arrogance block your vision from customer suggestions (remember,
i am a businessman too and sell product in the millions each month...)

i always listen to my customer suggestions regardless of how
irritating it might be (believe me my suggestions and comments are
very gentle), but you learn what they're going through to better
improve your product and ultimately, your sales.

im here to help... we're all enthusiasts.

 

It took me 15 minutes the first time, around 10 minutes to do now. If you have all the correct tools (as listed in the directions) and take your time, it should not take more than 1/2 hour. There's absolutely no point in rushing the install - it's a tight area you are working with so bear that in mind - you have to be patient and methodical.

I too only have a single bulb in my garage and i don't think it would be enough light to install in the dark. So my suggestion is to wait for the weekend.


Agreed. I do appreciate all the feedback, whether it's positive, negative, or otherwise. I'm new at this and can only learn more about my customers and my product from customers who are willing to sacrifice their time by posting their experience.

 

that's the kind of attitude I like to hear from vendors!

now for the update from the drive this morning:

1. Engine at idle - Last night it felt like the car was vibrating (not shaking)
to a noticible higher decible in terms of sound, but this morning the car did
not sound as loud as it did last night. it actually sounded normal as
before. maybe the damper settled a bit?

2. Herky/Jerky - (i didn't come up with this lingo). sudden throttle inputs
on my car causes the motor and drivetrain to bounce around. it use to
be 3 bounces, now 1.5 to 2. which is a good improvement.

3. Acceleration at WOT - really depends on how accurately i get the timing
down between shifts, but the power-on feels solid. I felt this immediately
last night too when i took my car out for a quick spin.

4. Acceleration over repetitive bumps and dips - this is where i saw the
biggest improvement. before the motor would bounce around
causing the rpms not to spool very well. now, the spooling is considerably
better and consistent. Even if you don't drive spiritedly, this improvement
alone is worth having the damper.

5. Fitment - i looked at my install again. the shell is hitting the frame, i
could not get a piece of paper to slide between the shell and frame. if
this was an oil filled damper i would worry about leaks, but since this is
a friction type and the damper would move away from the frame while
the motor rocks, i just left it.

Conclusion: get it.

 

Hey everyone.. just read this post and I'm wondering who I need to contact to purchase this or what website...??? Sorry if it was posted already, I'm at work and did a quick skim through... but im REALLY interested in this...

Thanks,

Allen

*EDIT*

Nevermind... I see it in the signature... DOH!... sorry about that...

 

you now have to buy two.

 

SO, how important is the stubby wrench? I have a small pair of channel locls that work well is most tight situations, but only standard sized wrenches. I noticed the directions mention angled needle nose pliers, and I assume that all I need to do is keep teh nut from moving a little so the amount of pressure is not that much. Also, is there any hope of using a 1/4 inch socket wrench? Mine is pretty short.