Drivetrain installed engine damper, what do you guys think....
#151
#152
1) Check post # 598 in the group buy thread HERE and see if you have the extra material. Seems that 2002 BUILD year cars have this extra material - in which case you would need to purchase a bracket (in development) or drill away like Dr. Obnxs.
2) Red, blue, or silver only. (Silver out of stock right now, available mid-to-late November)
2) Red, blue, or silver only. (Silver out of stock right now, available mid-to-late November)
#154
birthday by 2 weeks?
#159
trust me, you will be better with the red or the blue.
#161
Installed this part last weekend and overall I'm impressed with the turn out so far. One question though, Has anyone ran into the situation where the bolt to the engine was too long without the bell washer. I understand that the bolts that came with it were two different sizes and I was using the short one on the engine. I was able to tighten it without a bell washer until about 1/4" thread was visable, then the effort to turn it any more was almost rounding off the bolt head (using a box wrench but at a bad angle due to the mount bracket). I really wanted to not use a bell washer on this point because my damper is close the the frame around the center of the damper.
Anyone else find that this bolt is too long with no washer?
Anyone else find that this bolt is too long with no washer?
#162
Installed this part last weekend and overall I'm impressed with the turn out so far. One question though, Has anyone ran into the situation where the bolt to the engine was too long without the bell washer. I understand that the bolts that came with it were two different sizes and I was using the short one on the engine. I was able to tighten it without a bell washer until about 1/4" thread was visable, then the effort to turn it any more was almost rounding off the bolt head (using a box wrench but at a bad angle due to the mount bracket). I really wanted to not use a bell washer on this point because my damper is close the the frame around the center of the damper.
Anyone else find that this bolt is too long with no washer?
Anyone else find that this bolt is too long with no washer?
#163
Installed this part last weekend and overall I'm impressed with the turn out so far. One question though, Has anyone ran into the situation where the bolt to the engine was too long without the bell washer. I understand that the bolts that came with it were two different sizes and I was using the short one on the engine. I was able to tighten it without a bell washer until about 1/4" thread was visable, then the effort to turn it any more was almost rounding off the bolt head (using a box wrench but at a bad angle due to the mount bracket). I really wanted to not use a bell washer on this point because my damper is close the the frame around the center of the damper.
Anyone else find that this bolt is too long with no washer?
Anyone else find that this bolt is too long with no washer?
Spritz some WD-40 in there (requires that you back everything out) and then you'll be able to tighten it down all the way.
#165
Actually mine did loosen up.....but that's because a) I didn't tighten it down as tight as I thought and/or b) I think I sprayed a little too much in there.
So just spray a little bit.
And use a towel to soak up the excess.....
#166
I put mine on my '06 in (no foolin') about 15 minutes after reading the instructions and tips. Clearances are tight, no doubt, mine looks like the pic of the other blue one above. The masking tape trick is The Best, didn't need anyting but a 17mm box-end and a rather small adjustable wrench (to hold the bottom nut still while I torqued the top on the frame rail). Putting the small wrench on the bottom (bolt head) and holding it parallel to the radiator works great.
That masking tape trick: Double check the masking tape that holds your assembly together, then carefully insert in the frame rail while keeping a finger on it, once she's through the hole, put that nut on (GENTLY, now!) tighten 'er up and you're there. Once on, peel off any masking tape you can reach.
Performance: a Very Slight vibration in one dash panel (slight adjustment cured it). A subtle but noticable difference in shifting. I took it off to check clearance (and check that I hadn't scratched the paint - I had), and left it off to test drive and the shifting and throttle response feel "looser", so it makes a difference.
That masking tape trick: Double check the masking tape that holds your assembly together, then carefully insert in the frame rail while keeping a finger on it, once she's through the hole, put that nut on (GENTLY, now!) tighten 'er up and you're there. Once on, peel off any masking tape you can reach.
Performance: a Very Slight vibration in one dash panel (slight adjustment cured it). A subtle but noticable difference in shifting. I took it off to check clearance (and check that I hadn't scratched the paint - I had), and left it off to test drive and the shifting and throttle response feel "looser", so it makes a difference.
#167
#169
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#175
The bolt and threads are not completely sealed, although it doesn't feel like it, there is space between them. That's why you put sealer on the head bolts of a small-block Chevy, so the coolant doesn't come up through the threads. The WD will just evaporate with the heat.