Just look at the pictures, it's the silver metal strip with a slot in it.

Anyone want to share the length of the stop bar, hole center to end of slot?

 

i would doubt that anyone could fabricate their own stop bar for less than the cost of those currently available. if you are making more than minimum wage, just pick your favorite and order it!

 

I think I got it. Now, do I need the limiter if I'm running stock Crank pulley? Or is this strictly recommended for those who run a 2% and above crank pulley?

 

bean, you would denigrate me and deny me my fun and pride of accomplishment to just get in line to buy a simple small strip of metal with a hole and a slot in it?
I don't like that design anyway, I can make up a cable style (Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop) faster that you can change out your wheels anyway.
Well that is if my wife doesn't come up something else she can't live without being done before the sun sets.
By the way,not having been employed since April has nothing to do with it. I'm on a sabbatical and have all the time I need Normally do a bit better than minimum wage so thank you for the advice.
(A wage is a compensation which workers receive in exchange for their labor.)

SharoSC02, The limiter keeps the tensioner from slamming into the crank pulley if the belt breaks regardless of pulley type crank or supercharger, OEM or after market.
Hope that helps


Anyone want to share the length of the stop bar, hole center to end of slot? pretty please

 

I'd be happy to but it's too hard to measure while on...

I've made DT style shelf hangers...looks very industrial and cost pennies...

 

Thanks norm03s.

*scours ebay in hopes of finding one for a good price*

 

Again, why can't someone source the damper (little black shock absorber) since almost everyone I talk to that has added a tensioner stop says their damper is damperless.

Paul

 

Thats what I was getting at, I have a crimp tool.
Yeah, that would be kinda tough, thanks anyway.
Next;
Anyone want to share the length of the stop bar, hole center to end of slot? pretty please

 

1. You probably can, but no one has the time to really do the research probably

2. If this damper is anything like my steering damper in my motocycle, then it doesn't work like a "shock absorber" like on your wheels. It's not under constant gas pressure. It more of a vibration and motion reducer. Meaning it will slow down inputs. I think gas tension would be too much to be on the belts since there is already a spring there. The damper just slows down motion by restricting the speed at which it can move. For example, on my motorcycle it still allows you to turn the handlebars, but it requires more force and makes fast inputs into slow inputs. On a motorcycle this is used to prevent what's know as a tankslapper where your handlebars slap from left to right and usually causes a crash. The added resistance of the damper turns a violent wobble in smooth and slow wobble (that you can recover from). I suspect the mini damper works by taking out excess motion and just keeps the tensioner more constant.

(generally they are filled with oil which increases motion resistance by forcing oil through small holes inside, rather than shocks which are under gas pressure and are always pushing).

 

You know, that could be entirely right. I just didn't feel any "damping" when I had it out to put in the tensioner stopper.
If I knew where to start I would attempt to do some research. Guess I'll take the damper out and check for part numbers or manufacturer id.

Paul

 

Yeah If you want to check the damping. you'll need to apply force quickly. I suspect it's used to change a large/quick input into a slighly less large, but much slower input. You should feel resistance if you try to move it quickly. This might be a faster motion than you can generate by hand. It might be there to just reduce motor vibration.

 

Basically thats the only difference between the old style hydraulic shocks and todays gas filled shocks which also have oil in them.
Somebody on here mentioned they had sourced a replacement and said they would post it but I haven't seen the post yet.


Anyone want to share the length of the stop bar, hole center to end of slot? Come on just do it, pretty please

 

I think there is just a little confusion between a shock and damper. A damper is designed to reduce motion in 2 directions, which a shock reduce the force in one direction and will actually push back in the other direction. I believe people were expecting the little damper to be a little shock and push against you.

I'd love to share the slot size with you, but my DT cable is installed and I'm too lazy to pull it out just to measure it. although had I known the size before hand, I would just just made one. It's really really easy to make....

 

I have my (insert brand here) tensioner stop bar on my desk and here are the numbers I've measured:
7 inches long bar stock that is 1/8 inch thick
11/32 inch hole drilled 3/8 inch from both ends
Second 11/32 inch hole drilled 6/8 inch from ONE END.
Now elongate to open the two holes drilled near one end.
Round ends of bar stock.
Install

Hope that helps.

I'm guessing that if someone was going to build a cable tensioner stop it would need to be 6 1/4 inches long from center of 11/32" hole to center with cable crimped between both ends.

Paul

 

Very good of you in the real NAM fashion of sharing info
Thanks, norm

 

Anyone sourced the shock/damper yet? I need one. While attempting to put the DT Tension stop on we found a bushing had rotted and released one end of the shock. Not only are the bushings rotted both ends but the eye of the shock is cracked. Is my only option to buy the whole tesioner assembly?

Luckily there was no catastrophic damage done.

thanks

 

That is what I found on mine. It had been making a bad rattling noise for a long time when I pulled it out to take a peek. Both rubber bushings where heat rotted ! Went to dealer to learn that the damper wasn't sold separately, got the all thing for somewhere around 170 bucks and installed on the car. That is when I found that there was nothing wrong with the damper, as the new one was just as "weak" as the old one. I took the old tensioner to the shop and our fabricator made some nice delrin bushing, put the thing back together with high strength bolts, and it is going back on the car, not if, but when the new one give up the ghost .

 

170 installed? or just the part?

 

$163.18 for part only, + FL. tax= $172.97

 

Thanks Carbonized.

OK.

I just ordered up the parts I need . Got a question though. I'm pretty sure that I can do a belt replacement and I'm pretty sure that I can do the shock/damper (from putting in the DT Tension stop). But how hard is it to do the full tensioner unit?

i've got an 03 MCS.

I'm pretty sure because I got help and instructions on doing both the belt replacement and DT tension stop on my car yesterday.

 

That's interesting, I paid only $107. for the entire NEW Belt tensioner from Classic Mini with the NAM discount and took MAYBE 1 hour to install myself.
Not a difficult part to replace and sure made an amazing difference.

Just buy a new one and put it in, simple as that.

 

I'd be glad to help with some tips for nstallation if you need them. Let me know.

Paul

 

yes. Please share. I've never had to jack up the engine since randy webb did the pulley install.

So, I think that jacking up the engine is what I am nervous about. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I don't mind doing the work. I'll be reading over the Bently manual as well. But if you've got a secret or 2 I'd like to hear them. Any help is good help. I did read somewhere that AGOKART was able to do it with out jacking it but I could find any info.

Thanks.

 

The tensioner just arrived. Looks like a busy weekend. Any pointers?

 

Does installation require jacking up the engine, or can it be done by simply removing the passenger side inner fender liner?