How To R53 Drivetrain :: Supercharger Pulley Install How-To
#1
04-17-2003, 09:50 PM
R53 Drivetrain :: Supercharger Pulley Install How-To
Thanks for all of the help with the other post guys! I wanted to cover all the details, so I figured it was time to do the promised how-to on lifting the motor to gain access to the pulley (something that must be done no matter what pulley or removal tool is used).
Time Required
1-3 hours
Tools Required
#25 torx
standard screwdriver
phillips screwdriver
8mm socket if the Madness intake is installed
10mm socket
13mm socket
16mm socket
18mm deep socket or wrench
clamp removal tool or small standard screwdriver and small plier
belt tensioner tool (or small screwdriver to pin the tension)
pulley removal tool with crow's foot puller
acetylene torch or head oven
floor jack and stands
Before starting, open the rear hatch and disconnect the battery with a 13mm. Leave the hatch open.
1. Jack up the car until the stand will fit under the factory jack point without any extension (to keep the car relatively low).
2. Remove the intake. Start by removing the battery terminal from the side of the airbox - it just clips out.
If you have the Rogue/Madness/Turner intake (one in the same), remove the 8mm bolt from the partition.
Remove the clamp at the intake boot.
Remove the two #25 torx bolts at the base of the intake heat shield (or if it is the stock box, these same two bolts hold the top of the airbox in place).
Remove the intake or the panel filter and airbox top (depending on what you have).
3. Remove the ECU and lower airbox half. Remove the ECU cover (it just has two tabs on each side that squeeze together and pull off), then remove each of the two plugs. These are a little tricky - they have tabs on the end of the plug that pull away from the plug which forces the plug up and off. It's easiest to use a small screwdriver very carefully to pull these tabs away from the plug.
You can see the tab just under my left hand on the larger of the two plugs.
Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the driver side of the airbox down. There is also a small steel bracket holding a wiring loom that is attached with this same 10mm. You will need to move this loom slightly out of the way to remove the airbox.
Now remove the clamp on the snorkle to the airbox. You will either use a standard screwdriver if you have replaced the clamp, or the factory removal tool if you still have the stock clamp (you can also remove the stock clamp with a small screwdriver and replace it with the screwdriver and small pliers). Press down on the tab inside the bottom of the airbox that holds the snorkle in place and pull it out of the car.
Remove the wiring to the battery terminal from the lower airbox half.
You can now remove the lower airbox half by pulling back and then out.
Here's what it looks like with the box removed. Note the two small rubber mounting bolts at the bottom rear of the partition. The box is molded on the underside to fit into these mounts, which is why you had to pull toward the front of the car before you pulled up and out.
4. Remove the skid plate. There are two phillips head screws, one on each side (they are like dzus fasteners).
Then, remove the three 10mm bolts in front of the lip.
Now you can pull the skid plate out by tugging aft then down.
5. Remove the lower motor mount 16mm bolt.
6. Using a small block of wood, line up the jack with the power steering fan under the drainplug. Being very careful not to interfere with the power steering fan, jack up until you are resting the jack firmly on the motor.
7. Remove the driver side 16mm motor mount bolt. It helps to wiggle as you are pulling it out, and jacking slightly may help as well. It is a little bit of an art, but once you get the hang of it, it is pretty easy (and it is the same thing threading it back in - you get good at it by just wiggling and jacking the motor at the same time).
8. Remove the 10mm clamp bolt holding the wiring loom and radiator hose to the intake manifold.
9. Remove the 13mm ground bolt from the passenger side motor mount.
Be careful to hold the bottom of the bolt to prevent it from falling out when you pull the nut off.
10. I slide the regulator off its bracket to gain more room for the tensioner tool, but you don't really have to. Remove the quick disconnect fittings and use a screwdriver to push the tab on the bracket in slightly and slide it off toward you.
11. There are three hoses attached to the vibration damper bracket. These just pop out of their respective holders.
12. Remove the vibration damper bracket 16mm bolts - the front one is shorter than the rear (for reassembly).
Remove the damper bracket.
13. Using the 18mm wrench or deep socket, remove the passenger side motor mount nut.
14. Now, being very careful in several places, slowly jack up the motor. Pay special attention to the coil pack plug, the throttle body, and the power steering fan. Watch all of the hoses and wiring as you go up incrementally. This is the riskiest part of the job, so pay very close attention.
15. Using the belt tensioner tool, remove the tension on the belt and pull the serpentine belt off of the idler gear. The pulley tool is just a big lever with a pin on the end that fits into the two holes in the tensioner itself. The lever fulcrum is the forward 16mm tensioner mounting bolt.
No making fun of those welds! That's what happens when you run out of inert gas and at the same time don't prep your surface!
16. Remove the belt tensioner. There are four bolts, two 10mm and two 16mm.
The rear 16mm is the whiter of those two bolts in the fuzzy pic.
Note the two holes where the tensioner tool is inserted.
Now you have access to the pulley!
17. Install the pulley removal tool. Start by taking the plastic center cap out of the s/c shaft. It helps to get the lip out slightly with the blade of a standard screwdriver, then it will just thread right out like a bolt by hand.
Install a 13mm bolt into the center of the shaft. Slide the two halves of the removal tool over the pulley and tighten the allens.
Now install the crow's foot puller onto the removal tool.
Using a ratchet on the end of the puller, wind the pulley off. This is a very effective and easy way to get the pulley off. It requires no drilling or cutting, and has worked everytime without a hitch.
18. Now that you have the old pulley off, it's time to either get out the torch, or go get the pulley hub out of the oven (use 450F or so). Heat the hub using the torch for about 10 seconds, then slide the hub onto the shaft with a hot glove, making sure it is flush with the end of the shaft. Using a screwdriver or spacer helps make sure it doesn't go too far onto the shaft.
Using a drop of red Loctite on each bolt, install the aluminum half of the pulley. It may be easier to have the bolts snug, and then check them again after you get the tensioner and belt back on.
19. Reinstall the tensioner with the two 16mm and two 10mm bolts. After you have it installed, replace the belt (you will again have to use the tensioner tool to release the tension while you get the belt back on). Here is a rough diagram of the serpentine belt routing:
Here is the tensioner being installed:
20. Slowly lower the car onto the passenger side motor mount bolt. Once you get the nut started, place a stand with wood under the gearbox and slide the jack more to the center of the motor/gearbox. Now jack it up slightly and use the wiggle jack method to get the other motor mount bolt started. After that, it's just a matter of reinstalling everything.
21. Reinstall the vibration damper bracket (two 16mm bolts - long bolt to the rear of the car) and the associated hoses by snapping them back into place.
22. Reinstall the regulator and quick disconnect hoses.
23. Reintall the 13mm ground strap bolt.
24. Reinstall the 10mm hose/wire loom clamp bolt.
25. Reinstall the airbox. When you are putting in the lower half of the airbox, make sure you lower it into position before sliding it back into the rubber mounts. It helps to take a look at the underside and figure out how the rubber mounts fit into the bottom of the airbox. You can feel the box and rubber mounts to be sure they are attached.
You use the tabs on the ECU plugs to reattach them. Make sure they are fully extended, line them up on the associated plug, then slowly close the tab and it will pull the plug onto the ECU. Replace the ECU cover by pressing it into place.
Reattach the 10mm forward bolt on the airbox - don't forget to put the bolt through the wiring loom bracket too. Reattach the snorkle by presing it into the lower airbox half and lining up the pin on the snorkle with the female receptacle. Reatach the snorkle hose clamp.
Replace the intake with the 8mm and #25 torx bolts. Don't forget to reattach the intake rubber boot and snug the clamp.
26. Reattach the 16mm lower motor mount bolt.
27. Put the skid plate back in place with the three 10mm bolts and the two dzus type fasteners (phillips head).
28. Remove the jack stands and lower the car.
29. Reattach the battery terminal.
30. Turn the ingnition key on for 10 seconds to reinitialize, then start the car. Check to see that nothing is askew (I like that word). Listen for belt noises, look at the belt alignment, check for any leaks, etc.
Go out and enjoy your new monster!
Some finished shots:
As always, if there are any questions, feel free to give me a call.
Randy
720-841-1002
_________________
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Time Required
1-3 hours
Tools Required
#25 torx
standard screwdriver
phillips screwdriver
8mm socket if the Madness intake is installed
10mm socket
13mm socket
16mm socket
18mm deep socket or wrench
clamp removal tool or small standard screwdriver and small plier
belt tensioner tool (or small screwdriver to pin the tension)
pulley removal tool with crow's foot puller
acetylene torch or head oven
floor jack and stands
Before starting, open the rear hatch and disconnect the battery with a 13mm. Leave the hatch open.
1. Jack up the car until the stand will fit under the factory jack point without any extension (to keep the car relatively low).
2. Remove the intake. Start by removing the battery terminal from the side of the airbox - it just clips out.
If you have the Rogue/Madness/Turner intake (one in the same), remove the 8mm bolt from the partition.
Remove the clamp at the intake boot.
Remove the two #25 torx bolts at the base of the intake heat shield (or if it is the stock box, these same two bolts hold the top of the airbox in place).
Remove the intake or the panel filter and airbox top (depending on what you have).
3. Remove the ECU and lower airbox half. Remove the ECU cover (it just has two tabs on each side that squeeze together and pull off), then remove each of the two plugs. These are a little tricky - they have tabs on the end of the plug that pull away from the plug which forces the plug up and off. It's easiest to use a small screwdriver very carefully to pull these tabs away from the plug.
You can see the tab just under my left hand on the larger of the two plugs.
Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the driver side of the airbox down. There is also a small steel bracket holding a wiring loom that is attached with this same 10mm. You will need to move this loom slightly out of the way to remove the airbox.
Now remove the clamp on the snorkle to the airbox. You will either use a standard screwdriver if you have replaced the clamp, or the factory removal tool if you still have the stock clamp (you can also remove the stock clamp with a small screwdriver and replace it with the screwdriver and small pliers). Press down on the tab inside the bottom of the airbox that holds the snorkle in place and pull it out of the car.
Remove the wiring to the battery terminal from the lower airbox half.
You can now remove the lower airbox half by pulling back and then out.
Here's what it looks like with the box removed. Note the two small rubber mounting bolts at the bottom rear of the partition. The box is molded on the underside to fit into these mounts, which is why you had to pull toward the front of the car before you pulled up and out.
4. Remove the skid plate. There are two phillips head screws, one on each side (they are like dzus fasteners).
Then, remove the three 10mm bolts in front of the lip.
Now you can pull the skid plate out by tugging aft then down.
5. Remove the lower motor mount 16mm bolt.
6. Using a small block of wood, line up the jack with the power steering fan under the drainplug. Being very careful not to interfere with the power steering fan, jack up until you are resting the jack firmly on the motor.
7. Remove the driver side 16mm motor mount bolt. It helps to wiggle as you are pulling it out, and jacking slightly may help as well. It is a little bit of an art, but once you get the hang of it, it is pretty easy (and it is the same thing threading it back in - you get good at it by just wiggling and jacking the motor at the same time).
8. Remove the 10mm clamp bolt holding the wiring loom and radiator hose to the intake manifold.
9. Remove the 13mm ground bolt from the passenger side motor mount.
Be careful to hold the bottom of the bolt to prevent it from falling out when you pull the nut off.
10. I slide the regulator off its bracket to gain more room for the tensioner tool, but you don't really have to. Remove the quick disconnect fittings and use a screwdriver to push the tab on the bracket in slightly and slide it off toward you.
11. There are three hoses attached to the vibration damper bracket. These just pop out of their respective holders.
12. Remove the vibration damper bracket 16mm bolts - the front one is shorter than the rear (for reassembly).
Remove the damper bracket.
13. Using the 18mm wrench or deep socket, remove the passenger side motor mount nut.
14. Now, being very careful in several places, slowly jack up the motor. Pay special attention to the coil pack plug, the throttle body, and the power steering fan. Watch all of the hoses and wiring as you go up incrementally. This is the riskiest part of the job, so pay very close attention.
15. Using the belt tensioner tool, remove the tension on the belt and pull the serpentine belt off of the idler gear. The pulley tool is just a big lever with a pin on the end that fits into the two holes in the tensioner itself. The lever fulcrum is the forward 16mm tensioner mounting bolt.
No making fun of those welds! That's what happens when you run out of inert gas and at the same time don't prep your surface!
16. Remove the belt tensioner. There are four bolts, two 10mm and two 16mm.
The rear 16mm is the whiter of those two bolts in the fuzzy pic.
Note the two holes where the tensioner tool is inserted.
Now you have access to the pulley!
17. Install the pulley removal tool. Start by taking the plastic center cap out of the s/c shaft. It helps to get the lip out slightly with the blade of a standard screwdriver, then it will just thread right out like a bolt by hand.
Install a 13mm bolt into the center of the shaft. Slide the two halves of the removal tool over the pulley and tighten the allens.
Now install the crow's foot puller onto the removal tool.
Using a ratchet on the end of the puller, wind the pulley off. This is a very effective and easy way to get the pulley off. It requires no drilling or cutting, and has worked everytime without a hitch.
18. Now that you have the old pulley off, it's time to either get out the torch, or go get the pulley hub out of the oven (use 450F or so). Heat the hub using the torch for about 10 seconds, then slide the hub onto the shaft with a hot glove, making sure it is flush with the end of the shaft. Using a screwdriver or spacer helps make sure it doesn't go too far onto the shaft.
Using a drop of red Loctite on each bolt, install the aluminum half of the pulley. It may be easier to have the bolts snug, and then check them again after you get the tensioner and belt back on.
19. Reinstall the tensioner with the two 16mm and two 10mm bolts. After you have it installed, replace the belt (you will again have to use the tensioner tool to release the tension while you get the belt back on). Here is a rough diagram of the serpentine belt routing:
Here is the tensioner being installed:
20. Slowly lower the car onto the passenger side motor mount bolt. Once you get the nut started, place a stand with wood under the gearbox and slide the jack more to the center of the motor/gearbox. Now jack it up slightly and use the wiggle jack method to get the other motor mount bolt started. After that, it's just a matter of reinstalling everything.
21. Reinstall the vibration damper bracket (two 16mm bolts - long bolt to the rear of the car) and the associated hoses by snapping them back into place.
22. Reinstall the regulator and quick disconnect hoses.
23. Reintall the 13mm ground strap bolt.
24. Reinstall the 10mm hose/wire loom clamp bolt.
25. Reinstall the airbox. When you are putting in the lower half of the airbox, make sure you lower it into position before sliding it back into the rubber mounts. It helps to take a look at the underside and figure out how the rubber mounts fit into the bottom of the airbox. You can feel the box and rubber mounts to be sure they are attached.
You use the tabs on the ECU plugs to reattach them. Make sure they are fully extended, line them up on the associated plug, then slowly close the tab and it will pull the plug onto the ECU. Replace the ECU cover by pressing it into place.
Reattach the 10mm forward bolt on the airbox - don't forget to put the bolt through the wiring loom bracket too. Reattach the snorkle by presing it into the lower airbox half and lining up the pin on the snorkle with the female receptacle. Reatach the snorkle hose clamp.
Replace the intake with the 8mm and #25 torx bolts. Don't forget to reattach the intake rubber boot and snug the clamp.
26. Reattach the 16mm lower motor mount bolt.
27. Put the skid plate back in place with the three 10mm bolts and the two dzus type fasteners (phillips head).
28. Remove the jack stands and lower the car.
29. Reattach the battery terminal.
30. Turn the ingnition key on for 10 seconds to reinitialize, then start the car. Check to see that nothing is askew (I like that word). Listen for belt noises, look at the belt alignment, check for any leaks, etc.
Go out and enjoy your new monster!
Some finished shots:
As always, if there are any questions, feel free to give me a call.
Randy
720-841-1002
_________________
Click It!
.
#5
04-17-2003, 11:23 PM
Colorado is the most beautiful state I've lived in. If ever there was a state for a road trip, it's here! If you come from the east though, there isn't much to see unless you continue into the mountains a bit. Denver is actually right on the east side of the Rockies at the foothills. Unless you keep going west, it's like hitting the very end of the Great Plains.
Now if you are coming from the west - the coolest roads and the best scenery anywhere is part of that trip.
Randy
720-841-1002
Now if you are coming from the west - the coolest roads and the best scenery anywhere is part of that trip.
Randy
720-841-1002
#6
04-18-2003, 03:58 AM
a couple of things:
due to the smaller pulley diameter, the path of the belt coming off the pulley and travelling straight down can come very close to a timing cover bolt. (see the picture just above instruction #20) If you get the pulley on even a little bit too far, the belt will contact this bolt head.
When you use the tool to remove the spring tension, slip a pin into the hole in the tab to lock the spring back. then you can get the tool out of there whils removing the belt and tensioner.
Whose hands are in the photos? who is the camera man? who is your welder? (couldn't hold back
)
due to the smaller pulley diameter, the path of the belt coming off the pulley and travelling straight down can come very close to a timing cover bolt. (see the picture just above instruction #20) If you get the pulley on even a little bit too far, the belt will contact this bolt head.
When you use the tool to remove the spring tension, slip a pin into the hole in the tab to lock the spring back. then you can get the tool out of there whils removing the belt and tensioner.
Whose hands are in the photos? who is the camera man? who is your welder? (couldn't hold back
)
#7
04-18-2003, 05:57 AM
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Some random things as I think of them since I've now done this twice:
Neither required removal of the skid plate at all. Why do you suggest it Randy?
Also, for the DIYer, neither install needed a tensioner tool like Randy's using. We just stuck a small screwdriver in the pin at the end of the spring, then removed the tensioner.
Ah well, nothing 5 minutes and a little rethreading couldn't fix. 
R
Neither required removal of the skid plate at all. Why do you suggest it Randy?
Also, for the DIYer, neither install needed a tensioner tool like Randy's using. We just stuck a small screwdriver in the pin at the end of the spring, then removed the tensioner.
Ah well, nothing 5 minutes and a little rethreading couldn't fix. R
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#8
04-18-2003, 07:04 AM
So taking something from the last how-to, we can assume that the remaining motor mounts that you *don't* dissassemble are oriented in such a way that they can pivot freely? (You had mentioned in a previous post that not all mounts have to be removed.)
Also, any general torque specs for reassembly?
I'm just curious, as I intend to take it to someone who's done some before.
Fantastic job on the write-up. This really doesn't (aside from the sight of the engine poking up out of the bay) look as difficult as I had imagined.
Thanks for the hard work,
Jeff
Also, any general torque specs for reassembly?
I'm just curious, as I intend to take it to someone who's done some before.
Fantastic job on the write-up. This really doesn't (aside from the sight of the engine poking up out of the bay) look as difficult as I had imagined.
Thanks for the hard work,
Jeff
#13
04-18-2003, 07:23 AM
Ryan,
That's why I mentioned the jack/wiggle technique - it really does slide right in when you get it lined up. I like that method better than doing the three bolts because of the location of the bolt under the fuse box. I pull the skid plate because it takes about 2 minutes, and it allows me to monitor the front hoses and wiring closely during the raising of the motor. Thanks for the great arrow pics though!
John,
Those are my hands! Palmolive soft . I hate to admit it, but my welding too! They are DaveinDenver's pics and car (Thanks!!).
I know you can use the screwdriver on the tensioner (and I mention that in the How-to), but I use the tensioner tool to keep things uniform - I use the same tool to do a belt change, so I keep with the same routine.
fried duck,
You do remove all of the mounts, what we talked about on the other thread was the difference in removing the three bolts versus the one bolt on the driver side mount. Ryan is right on the lower mount - you usually have to rock it forward to line it up again - this can be done easily by hand.
Let me know if there are any other questions.
Randy
720-841-1002
That's why I mentioned the jack/wiggle technique - it really does slide right in when you get it lined up. I like that method better than doing the three bolts because of the location of the bolt under the fuse box. I pull the skid plate because it takes about 2 minutes, and it allows me to monitor the front hoses and wiring closely during the raising of the motor. Thanks for the great arrow pics though!
John,
Those are my hands! Palmolive soft
. I hate to admit it, but my welding too! They are DaveinDenver's pics and car (Thanks!!).I know you can use the screwdriver on the tensioner (and I mention that in the How-to), but I use the tensioner tool to keep things uniform - I use the same tool to do a belt change, so I keep with the same routine.
fried duck,
You do remove all of the mounts, what we talked about on the other thread was the difference in removing the three bolts versus the one bolt on the driver side mount. Ryan is right on the lower mount - you usually have to rock it forward to line it up again - this can be done easily by hand.
Let me know if there are any other questions.
Randy
720-841-1002
#15
04-18-2003, 07:27 AM
2minis,
But then we can't do the track time! And I also can't load up all of the tools (well I guess I could if I had to, but I really don't want to!).
I think you should take a road trip! Going the southern route through MS, AL, LA (and New Orleans), TX, then up through NM (Sante Fe) and into CO is a great route (it takes a little longer, but it's worth it).
Randy
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But then we can't do the track time! And I also can't load up all of the tools (well I guess I could if I had to, but I really don't want to!).
I think you should take a road trip! Going the southern route through MS, AL, LA (and New Orleans), TX, then up through NM (Sante Fe) and into CO is a great route (it takes a little longer, but it's worth it).
Randy
_________________
Click It!
#18
04-18-2003, 10:10 PM
I'm in awe! I don't have the ***** to do something like this on my own, this is why Randy will be doing this for me this summer (hint, hint).
Rip apart an entire interior for an audio project; no problem!
Me messing with this much under-the-hood at once; look out!
Amazing write up, as usual, Randy
Two thumbs up, and two more from any passenger I'll have in the future
Cheers,
Ryan
Rip apart an entire interior for an audio project; no problem!
Me messing with this much under-the-hood at once; look out!
Amazing write up, as usual, Randy
Two thumbs up, and two more from any passenger I'll have in the future
Cheers,
Ryan
#19
04-18-2003, 10:29 PM
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I just now realised that the serpentine belt was hooked up to all that other crap because of your very artistic rendition in #19. Forgot about that. Why doesnt someone make pulleys for those 3 other things (whatever you want to call them). Thats gotta be worth some boost and power. I remember companys make them for the other imports (used to want a new Si then I discovered the MCS via my dad) and they *claimed* like 15 hp. I could see a couple more hp coming from 3 more smaller pulleys. Or has someone already done this and said it was a crap idea?
#21
04-19-2003, 07:13 AM
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#22
04-19-2003, 08:52 AM
#25
04-19-2003, 09:11 AM
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We are lucky to have them (the Lemans Cars) twice this year. June 27-29 the first time for a sprint, and then again Oct 15-18 for the Petit. We (east Coast) would love to have you. I can even lend a wrench (x-SCCA racer and crew chief). I think there would be enough business you might even need the guys from Helix to chip in. Don't know what it takes - probably a bit pricey being a Panoz event. I will do some research for you.
Wes
We (east Coast) would love to have you. I can even lend a wrench (x-SCCA racer and crew chief). I think there would be enough business you might even need the guys from Helix to chip in. Don't know what it takes - probably a bit pricey being a Panoz event. I will do some research for you.Wes