Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Superchager Question

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  #1  
Old 05-07-2003, 08:24 AM
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I am really thinking about swaping the pulley on my MCS. However I am a little timid on pulling/putting the pulley on my self. Call me a chicken but I really don't want to screw any of the internals of the blower up. But here is my question I went and talkedd to a guy who owns a speed shop in town and told him what I wanted to do. He said that he has a puller to pull pulleys off of all Eaton blowers. Is this true because I would have no issues on taking the blower off using the engine lift method of getting the blower off and having them put the pulley on. Well guys and girls let me know what you think of this. Thanks alot!!!

Justin-Street Machines Car Club Fort Wayne, In.
 
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Old 05-07-2003, 09:47 AM
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I am not sure you can remove the SC using the "lift" method. It is my undestanding that method only give you access to pull the pulley from the mounted SC. To remove the SC I believe you have to pull the front end off. Maybe the shop would help you swap the pulley on-site using the lift method.

Wes
 
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Old 05-07-2003, 09:56 AM
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Wes is correct. The engine lift provides access to the pulley for removal and reinstall. Not for removal of SC.
 
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Old 05-07-2003, 07:12 PM
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If you have the right puller getting it off (once you have access to it) takes about 30 seconds.

Getting it on is the tricky part. :smile:

Once you have done it once it is easy. But, you have to get over the virginity.

This is the cheapest hp mod you will make on the car. If you are uncomfortable with items that are press fit, do yourself a favor and pay someone to do it.

I've done a few operations like this one in my life and almost screwed it up.
 
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Old 05-07-2003, 07:15 PM
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This is just too risky a job to do by yourself if you don't know what you are doing. The part is already $200 plus shipping. For $250-300 more, you can have an expert install it. Work some overtime or something to pay for it if you have to - in other words, instead of spending a day trying to do it yourself, work an extra day to help pay for the install. If you mess this one up, you'll be out THOUSANDS at the very least. Just my two cents.
 
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Old 05-07-2003, 08:59 PM
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I'll be installing mine the Saturday. Made my own puller block and tensioner tool. According to Randy, the new pulleys do not require heating to install so the panic factor should be eliminated. Other than that, the "How To" spells it all out. I'll post later to let you all know just how tuff it was (or wasn't).
 
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Old 05-08-2003, 05:31 AM
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Bah, simple install. :smile: No need to drop hundreds on having it put in. The removal tool is the only thing you really need. With that it's not difficult. But I guess if you're not mechanically inclined then by all means go get it done.

R
 
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Old 05-08-2003, 05:44 AM
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For an extra $200.00 its well worth it to me to have Randy do the install. Then I know it was done right by an expert who wrote the book on the How-To's. A few beers after and some lunch is the least I can do for him coming to Florida to do the installs for us. Besides this is not your averge lawn mower your working on. if it was I would have this guy work on it. Uh huh....


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Old 05-08-2003, 07:44 AM
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>>Bah, simple install. :smile: No need to drop hundreds on having it put in. The removal tool is the only thing you really need. With that it's not difficult. But I guess if you're not mechanically inclined then by all means go get it done.
>>


Speaking of pulley installs and problems, what's going on with your engine? What was the result - was it pulley related???

 
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Old 05-08-2003, 08:00 AM
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I sure do want that pully too! I will probably wait until i come out to Colorado again and have Randy do it for me

 
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Old 05-08-2003, 04:58 PM
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And you don't need a tensioner tool, just a crowbar and a small screwdriver.
 
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Old 05-08-2003, 07:19 PM
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I figured spend ~$400 on a pulley tool and $210 for the pulley

OR

Fork over $500 and have the guys at helix do it.


I watched Eric install it and using the jack method it didn't seem that bad, the hardest part seemed to be getting the pulley on and making sure the engine doesn't hit anything while jacking it up.

If you feel comfortable doing it go for it but you won't be able to get the supercharger off very easily. You'll have to at least take off the intercooler to get at it. I don't know how hard it would be but that's how the JCW kit gets the 15% reduction pulley on. It's definately a great mod and has made me anxious to get more mods done... if only I had the money.
-Chris
 
  #13  
Old 05-09-2003, 08:31 AM
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There are definitely some tricks - be very careful of the coil plug hitting the overflow bottle, be careful of the crank pulley hitting the unibody, be careful of the radiator fan clearance, and watch all of the hoses as you raise the motor.

This method, as stated above, will only get you to the pulley. In order to remove the supercharger, take a look at the how-tos stapled to the top of the forum. Both mehtods are listed there with pictures. The first method is very involved, but you could then get the s/c out of the car.

For what it's worth, I will be loaning out the puller as long as you have a crow's foot style puller to work with it for no charge other than the core deposit.

There are two types of pulleys - an interference fit and a taper bore. For do-it-yourselfers, I recommend the taper bore.

Give me a call if you have any other questions.

Randy
720-841-1002
 
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