Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Optimal Power and How to Get it?

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  #1  
Old 04-26-2007, 08:41 PM
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Optimal Power and How to Get it?

First real post!
Well, I don't have my Mini yet, but I'll hopefully be getting one (or another one actually) soon (couple months), so I'm trying to do some initial research on necessary and/or fun goodies to purchase when I do get the car.
My first issue of concern will most probably be one of complete and total opinion, but I figured I'd seek some advice from people that have experience that I do not. We all love power, we wouldn't be gear heads if we didn't, but how much is too much? Specifically, in a short wheel-base, front wheel drive car. I already have every intention of dropping in an LSD as one of my initial upgrades, so at least I'll be putting power to both wheels instead of one, but the issue is still one of concern to me. Torque steer isn't as big a problem as maintaining traction to me, but then maybe I should be more focused on torque steer, I'm not familiar at all with high-power front wheel drive cars. But that's it, how much power is too much? My gut feeling has told me for a while as well as some general opinion I've read says 250whp is a good number to go for on a daily driver. Also not really looking to spend a fortune either, and that will definitely limit the power I can make as well. So I'd just like to hear some opinions from you people on what a good horsepower and torque rating would be a good goal on a street car for a driver that likes to accelerate hard and swing it around corners as fast as I can on occasion ("spirited" driving). But I would also like to preserve as much of the docile nature of the street car for normal driving circumstances and traffic. The car will most likely also see autocross whenever I can. Also another thing I'd like to consider aside from the effects of power on the driveability of the car, is the strength of the stock drivetrain. I'm also considering a clutch upgrade, but nothing radical, but how well do other things in the drivetrain like the transmission and half shafts hold up to higher-than-stock output?
With the first issue established, then comes the second one of after figuring out how much power is a good number to shoot for, how does one go about making it? Trying to keep things simple and relatively inexpensive of course, who isn't? But what's the best route to pursue for a good street car? I don't want to ditch the supercharger as I feel it's part of the car, and that supercharger whine helps offset the sound of the car from every other four banger on the road. So stand alone turbo isn't an option. Twincharge looks like a relatively simple and inexpensive way to big power, but then I keep reading about the little things. Fail emissions, check engine lights always on, some kits are a little finicky to deal with on a day-to-day basis. I'm looking to maintain all the stock driveability as I can but getting a little more umph. There's the M62 blower, but the jury still seems to be out on that one, so I'll reserve any judgement on that one until some more information is available. But I'm liking the sound of the more "torquey feel" it seems to be generating. At the moment, stick with the stock blower with a pulley, head work/replacement, headers, intercooler, ECU tuning, and a couple other little goodie bolt-ons seems to be the best way to get myself in the neighborhood of my own predetermined circa 250whp number. Low-end torque is also more of a concern for me, since it's a daily driver and I'd prefer to have the power down low where it's useable.
Just looking for peoples' opinions. Be gentle, I'm relatively new to the scene. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 04-26-2007, 08:48 PM
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For power there is only one true source, Revolution Mine Works. They are on teh interweb, you have to look them up. For handling Texas Speedwerks and for brakes TCE.

Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:05 PM
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Is that the creator of the famed "Jesus Head" I've read about? Or is that something different? I've found their site, but it appears to still be in developmental stages with limited information.
 
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AtomicOnionMan
Is that the creator of the famed "Jesus Head" I've read about? Or is that something different? I've found their site, but it appears to still be in developmental stages with limited information.
Call Jan directly . He's more than happy to answer any questions you have.
 
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:13 AM
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Atomic...

Why do you want 250whp for a street car that still has a fairly docile feel? If you occasionally do autocross, you really don't need that kind of power. Of course, there is a certain thrill from one of the very powerful cars, but you might be spending more than a few bucks.

As has been stated multiple times on this and other forums, a reduction pulley (15%, maybe 17%) does give you the best bang-for-the-buck. The pulley along with a proper ECU tune is the most cost effective way to go for a more spirited machine. With that said, I have gone down the crazy mod path over the 4 1/2 years that I've had my MCS. The car has about every concievable mod for a straight supercharged car, and it's been a fun, frustrating, very expensive, and sometimes, lonesome trip. Many of the mods were done because I was able to do them, and I know that my car is very special.

However, if I had to do it over again, the engine mods would include the pulley and ECU tune; I would also get a new cat-back for the sound effects. Isn't the retrospectascope a wonderful tool?

Good luck...
 
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:39 AM
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First, 'optimal power' is like 'best flavor of ice cream', or more appropriately, can you afford a scoop, or an ice cream truck?

You use a lot of conflicting terms - like 'docile' and '250whp'
You also say 'relatively inexpensive' - relative to a weekend in Vegas, or a month in Fiji?
You can get a good meal at Taco Bell for $5. Or at Spago for $500. All depends on your tastes.
Horsepower costs money. How fast do you want to spend?
Are you interested only in more power, or altered handling as well?
Are you doing work yourself, or do you have/need a shop to do it?
For $1000 you can do a CAI, pulley and ECU. You can also spend a grand on an exhaust. Or a few hundred.
When you start talking LSD and heads, you get into real money. But that depends on how YOU define real money.
See the $10,000 mod club thread for details.
Pull up a chair, and start reading - TONS of information on here.
Enjoy!
 

Last edited by Eric_Rowland; 04-27-2007 at 08:34 AM. Reason: added link
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Old 04-27-2007, 06:53 AM
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250whp = 5k worth of engine and that's being modest with a lot of install work done yourself.


Making the car driveable with that 250whp... that's another 5k in suspension, tires and brakes.

So ahhh yeah. Welcome to the 10k club. I'll be there soon, I'm not sure if it will be worth it, prob not... but what the heck, life is short.
 
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:20 AM
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At the moment I'm just feeling around. Like I've said, I haven't had any real experience in high output front wheel drive cars, so 250whp may be asking a bit much. I parted with my MCS in October and only then was really starting to drive the car harder. It was quick, be needed to be quicker. It handled very well, but could be a little better. That's the kinda mindset I'm in right now. Who knows, I might do a pulley, exhaust, and intake and be completely satisfied, just have to wait and see. Just exploring and researching options at the moment. That and I'm also what I would describe myself as a hardcore gearhead. If I had unlimited amounts of money I'd never stop modifying my car (any car), I just enjoy tinkering and making horsepower, even if it's completely and totally impractical. And part of that is just wanting to discuss it with others as well, so if I talk about it doesn't necessarily mean it's an option I'm considering. Oh, and bragging rights are always good to have.
By docile and streetable I don't necessarily mean bone stock-feeling. I was more referring to trying to avoid things like heavy clutches that don't play nice in traffic, engines that don't idle well or aren't very happy below 5 grand, impractical or unnecessary daily-driver things like water or methanol injection, or ungodly loud and obnoxious exhaust systems. I drive my dad's C6 Corvette quite a bit and I feel even that could be a little more powerful, so I'm not afraid of horsepower and have several years of racing experience to know how to use it. Hopefully that doesn't come off as gloating or arrogance, I don't mean it that way, just don't want to sound like an idiot mouthing off about big numbers without knowing how to handle them.
I plan to do more than just engine and drivetrain mods, ideally the whole car will be quite decked out, both inside and out, funds permitting. Money and inexpensive is of course relative, but that's the beauty of being young, still at home, and with a fairly good-sized income. Moreso at the moment looking for opinions, ideas, and suggestions, nothing's written in stone (it's hardly written on paper either). I'll figure out what I can actually do and afford when I get the car (first big financial hurdle... ).
 
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:49 AM
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Atomic,

Based on your last post, it seems that you'd really like to go the whole "nine yards". If that's the case, then the sky's the limit . A note of caution might be in order: Modifications, whether drive train, suspension/tyres, etc., should reflect a balance within the system. Just because a part may be promoted as "bigger and better" doesn't mean it's right for your car. Aftermarket part A might not work well with Part B, etc., ad nauseum. The mods need to be synchronous or synergistic, not the opposite.

It has been expressed numerous times on NAM that the first step is to decide how you want to use the car. That will be a big help in chosing subsequent modifications. Be sure to do all your homework before plucking down bundles of $$!

Good luck....
 
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:47 PM
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If one of your goals is to autocross (SCCA Solo 2) a Mini S, get a copy of the rules for classing the car. If you go too wild (certainly 250 hp is wild) you will end up in a "street modified" class and you will get "blown out of the water". Try to stay in a fairly stock class or at a minimum "street prepared" - then you may be competitive and have fun. A lot of chassis turning is needed to do well in autocross (lowering, coil-overs, adjustable shocks, anti-sway bar, camber plates, adjustable links, lite wheels, DOT racing tires, performance brakes, corner weigthing, strut bar(s) - the list goes on and on). You can spend thousands ($) on the chassis alone. Then you get to learn how to drive it competitively.
 
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by prime-drk-
250whp = 5k worth of engine and that's being modest with a lot of install work done yourself.


Making the car driveable with that 250whp... that's another 5k in suspension, tires and brakes.

So ahhh yeah. Welcome to the 10k club. I'll be there soon, I'm not sure if it will be worth it, prob not... but what the heck, life is short.
My car is far from undrivable. I'm well past the 10k upgrade club, but 250 whp on it's own doesn't make the car undrivable. Keep in mind that you can use your foot to modulate the throttle. You don't start the car with the gas on the floor and drive around like that all day .
 
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