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Electrical The Foot Well Module: functions, problems, solutions?
ElectricalFor discussions regarding wiring up electrical modifications such as radar detectors, brake light mods, power sockets, and driving lights in Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.
I have the same problem with my mini copper and you can send it to a company in Vancouver and in California I think that fixes them and they’ll send it back that same day for around 450$ There called ECU Medics
I work on these 2nd gen FRMs. Definitely less than half that (USA PA)
No low beams and the window doesn't drop when the door opens and closes
Originally Posted by Zephyr1
I would like to start a thread on the Foot Well Module (FRM), to compile information on what it does, what problems it might be related to, and solutions (if any).
(Also added footwell module to text for search engine)
Functions:
The FRM controls many lighting functions, but apparently also window winder functions, and maybe others.
From the MINI workshop manual:
'The FRM in the R56 is an electrical intersection. The FRM picks up the
signals from the doors and controls the lighting. Moreover, the FRM is
also the interface to the instrument cluster.
See also the attached image from the MINI workshop manual.
The FRM and the junction box electronics control the power window drives.'
The FRM has to be specifically coded to the vehicle VIN, and AFAIK this can only be done by the dealer.
There are at least 3 different versions of the FRM, and each also comes with multiple part numbers based on whether the car has adaptive headlights or not.
Location:
This is the module that sits on the drivers side foot well, behind the hood release (in US cars).
Connectors:
There are three connectors to it, two on one side (towards front of car), a single on the other (rear of car) side. The single is X14259, the other two are X14260 and X14261
Associated fuses:
I have not been able to verify this, but based on other posts it seems the FRM is associated with multiple fuses, including:
F5, F8, F47, F48 and maybe F14.
This may vary based on what features the car has.
There has been some mention of multiple FRM failures, and of exchanges of the FRM solving problems, or not.
Here are details from my experience to date:
I got into this via installation of the JCW sports gauges in my 2013 R56s (see thread on this): https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/interior-exterior/249553-who-has-installed-jcw-sport-gauges-themselves-2.html
After completing the installation, I got electrical gremlins that I still have not been able to eliminate:
Either the xenons are always on (as soon as ignition is turned on), and/or one or the other, or both of the turn signals are not working. E-flashers are always working.
With some feedback from others in above post, I have been able to trace this to the FRM and associated cabling / connectors as the most likely culprit. This because meddling with any other aspect of the installation made no difference to the gremlins, whereas meddling with the FRM changes things. Specifically, (based on recommendations from KilmorePT, see above thread), 'playing' with the connectors and cables changes the 'gremlin mode'. This suggests connection problems. However, I am troubled by this because the connections should not be that delicate, and the FRM sits adjacent to the hood release, and in fact the cable to connector X14259 is secured to the release mechanism! To me, this suggests the possibility of a faulty FRM, or faulty connectors.
My next option may be a visit to the dealer to investigate.
I will keep posting here, and encourage others to add any information related to the FRM, if possible.
Thanks!
Ithe low beams don't work and the windows doesn't drop when the door opens or closes
A couple of months ago, I had to send the FRM3 off to get the boot EEPROM reflashed, as I'd lost use of my front power windows after putting the car on charge.
All had been fine since. I then had to replace my interior blower motor as it was making squeaking noises - unfortunately RHD cars are a full dashboard out job.
Put everything back together and I'd lost the use of my hazard lights, and the HVAC controls weren't illuminating.
No useful codes in ISTA, but eventually discovered that wiggling X14259 and/or the module itself, made everything work again. I don't think I've got an actual short or wire split, and my counters in tool32 are all 0. Wiggling the wire does cause the lower footwell light to cut in and out though.
Long story short, i read in one of the earlier posts in this thread that the plugs and connectors are poorly assembled. Is that still plausible? I have no idea how I'd go about isolating and fixing potentially bad wiring or harness, but I'm thinking of trying some contact cleaner on the connections
I have a mini r56, 2008 version (USA), my car has a problem with the rear fog lights. When I turn on the fog light switch in the center console, there is no signal light on (no icon light in clock) Front fog light work normal. Use an electric test has no power. Footwell module error? I'm confuse.
There is a problem that can be caused be someone blowing air to clear out the drain tubes in the sunroof housing. it can blow the tube connection off leaving the water to drain down right over the footwell module, took my mod out and cleaned all the corrosion off the pins and also inside the module caused by the water. you have to remove the ceiling panels and what not to get to the the tube and reconnect it if that is your problem. pour water in the channel around the sunroof and see if it comes out under the car in the right spot. I think you can see the drain tube if you open the hood and look between the fender and the foot well wall should be a tube their to follow, I'm getting an error now with low battery connection 30A. tried another module from a donor car but the widows up and down were reversed, I know it can be reprogrammed if necessary but I want to tackle mine first. Just joined north American so I could answer your question and it is a great resource for info. just replaced an automatic transmission from a doner 08 in my 2010 R56 what a project that was.
I have a base R56 2012 Hatchback with xenons. My FMR has gone for SECOND time, the first time in Jan. '23 sent to eBayer for successfull $50 reflash/recode.
This time just rear lights & front flashers, so resent to eBayer who says "software fine - circuit board must be effed".
MINI says my VIN does NOT qualify for recall (they did not say why, but I assume it's because I don't have sunroof - I bought in CT).
Upon searching a YouTuber showed a successful plug n play (no coding) using a junkyard FMR - the only keypoint being "it was from a MINI with xenon - into his xenon MINI".
Experiences or thoughts?
Can those eBay guys recode a junkyard FMR to my VIN if part number is the same?
Anyone with an R56 not covered in recall but with an effed FMR complain successfully to MINI?
I briefly went thru this thread and "jiggle the FMR & wire connectors seemed to be the most successful not electronic expert solution?
I just recently got my letter from BMW/MINI about the recall. They still don't have the FRMs to do the recall fix. I am hoping they will reimburse me for the FRM I had to buy in 2021 so my car was fully operational. Cost me nearly $800 for part (outmotoring.com) + install (at Detroit Tuned). It took me weeks to find a new replacement, since I wasn't interested in jacking up any other components of my MINI (2010 MINI Cooper S, with sunroof) by using a refurb or a junk yard find, since my car was already almost unusable (seems the FRM failure can cause plenty of systems to fail without any rhyme or reason to which or why). I am happy to get my recall done (yay! newer FRM!!), but I will be quite annoyed if MINI USA doesn't reimburse me for the one I had to buy. The flaw that causes nearly all the FRM failures is 100% MINI's fault (sunroof drain made with garbage parts and bad design). One thing I found out from my mechanics at Detroit Tuned is you need to disconnect the battery to work on the FRM, but that can cause the FRM to get fried. Ha! Great design, BMW!! Ugh.
Save your receipts, they might down the road. I did that with my R52 P/S pump got my 800 back down the road when they did the recall/reimbursement.
FRM some people used that's close to the same options have worked but its a gamble. Otherwise you will need a new one and get it flashed when they come available again.
Good advice! I have all my receipts from date-of-purchase in June, 2010.
When I spoke with the peeps at Motor City MINI in Southfield, MI they told me they will try to get me reimbursed when they have me come in for the recall fix, whenever that will be. I stopped service there once my warranties ran out. Had some awful experiences with them for failed parts, timing of recalls, and general lack of customer concern.
Detroit Tuned in Clawson, MI does all my MINI servicing. Ace place!
Also, I find it alarming that an automaker doesn't have access to a part that is vital to the vehicle's operations.
Thanks!
Since you are in the know...
What do you think of the MINI stereo channel swap wiring harness? I know MINI stock speakers are crap, but I have also discovered that the system runs most of the bass through the front 6" speakers, which aren't made for that, basically making the 6x9 rear speakers uselessly bland since the bass isn't getting to them. Should I buy the channel swap harness ($50 or so) or just skip it and get new speakers all around (tweeters, doors, rears) from a stereo shop where their install could fix the wiring? I'm no electrician but could easily drop in the channel swap, but with crappy stock speakers I doubt it will help much. I know there is a way to re-wire the stereo harness myself (what the channel swap harness does with much less possibility of damaging wiring) but I'd rather not ruin my sketchy stereo by pulling wiring and re-seating it.
Just wanted to ask.
But no more specific info than "close to the same options"? Like same part number?
I looks like used ones are abt. $130 on eBay - obviously the condition unknown.
I asked the eBay guy who recoded mine, but he has not responded - you would think he would know, or make the investment to find out (or one of the many - at least 10+ who offer the service - just buy a used one and recode with a customer's VIN).
It looks like I'm the one who is going to have to try it #grrrr.
Installing LED fogs in front & emergency flashers in back (off cigarette lighter) while waiting for my FMR to be returned (still have headlights, interior, & hill assist) - so no night driving & no windows
I'll have to fashion up some turn signals or at least left turn signals...
Would still welcome more input if there is any. Tnx.
QUOTE=ECSTuning;4658000]Save your receipts, they might down the road. I did that with my R52 P/S pump got my 800 back down the road when they did the recall/reimbursement.
FRM some people used that's close to the same options have worked but its a gamble. Otherwise you will need a new one and get it flashed when they come available again.[/QUOTE]
Part number does not really matter as their are two main versions (part numbers) then its coded to car options, this the option thing is in play for coding.
FRM Multiple Part #s...."bilaterally exchangeable"???
So I am still trashing this one to death, until I discover the logic (which is what I do:
So ECS Tuning shows 2 types of FMR (adaptive lights & not) & I see on eBay & elsewhere multiple references to FRM2 & FRM3...with REALOEM showing the ECS TUNING part # WITH a long list of "supercedes" part numbers, some saying "exchangeable retrospectively" (ok) and some "bilaterally exchangeable"...what does that mean?
I have found an FRM on FB with a part # listed as "bilaterally exchangeable"...I am assuming that if it is compatible with mine, I can send it along with my VIN for an eBay $50 recode/reflash - correct? partial list of "supercedes"...
They have updated the footwell module multiple times. Thats why all the supersessions.
One for the R60 MINI Countryman/R61 Paceman later, One for the early R56 R55, one for later R55-59, early R60R61. Then a couple splits on shared modules dependent on module and year. Some for adaptive headlights and non. We have the newest part listed. So you have to find one that's close to the same options as yours. The supersessions need to match your unit. We have all the pervious revisions in the product detail page of each unit. Best way is to find your part number on your box (11 digit), pop it into realoem or our site and you can see all the revisions. Then try to find a box that's the same number or newer in date code, but then its got to be from a MINI with close to the same options on the build sheet, unless you find a place that can recode it. I have not personally seen people flash these (recode). But i have heard people using "close in build/year modules working".
"exchangeable retrospectively" - i believe this is only forward retro "bilaterally exchangeable" - i believe this is back and forth one module retro
That's all the info I know, have not taken footwell modules and swap them into every MINI, every model, every make to test every option, I just the know the part set up and what historical MINI and BMW has done with parts. Hope that helps.
Thanks - that was VERY useful...except the term "bilateral" which should mean "both sides"...
Restrospectively - yes "backwards"
So based on what you said - sorry to hurt your new sales (I have ordered many parts from you before):
Any FRM on the oemparts.com exchange list for OUR FRMs (once we confirm what bilateral means🤪 can be recoded/reflashed/programmed to our VIN by one of the eBay services: $50 is most common price with one-day turnaround, but many charge more...
it looks like used FMRs on eBay are about $130 (without programming? not sure?)
and REFURBISHED FMRs with programming on eBay are about $230.
Do we have an official answer on what "bilateral" means in our FMR context? Perhaps somebody from the LBGTQ+ community could chime in?
Well, NOBODY is able to clearly, & authoratatively
state the meaning of:
exchangeable retroactively
bilaterally exchangeable
UNTIL NOW: Having seen a strict translation of the original German, I can now say "probably" 🤣🤣🤣:
1. After running your FMR part # , you are presented with two lists: newer FMRs and older FMRs.
2. Looking at the list of compatible NEWER FMRs ("Superceded By"):
exchangeable retroactively means the NEWER FMR will swap with your current MINI/FMR;
bilaterally exchangeable means that the NEWER FMR will work in yours & YOURS will swap into the newer MINI.
3. Looking at the list of OLDER FMRs ("Supercedes"):
exchangeable retroactively means the OLDER FMR will NOT swap into your newer MINI;
bilaterally exchangeable, means that the OLDER FMR will swap into your newer MINI, and vice-versa.
"Backwards" is a synonym for "retrospectively" in the context of the realoem.com translation.
"Both ways" is the best synonym for bilateral in the realoem.com context.
Now unfortunately, having read my own text above. I realize I have ordered a used FRM from a 2010 MINI which will NOT plug n' play into my 2012 Base Hatchback..Consolation, I only paid $50 and they sell on eBay for $130. #dumkopf
Note that plug n' play is NOT guaranteed:
a) some say ALL swapped FRMs must be reprogrammed;
b) some say "may need" programming based on options on both MINIs - especially adaptive & xenon headlights - but the more similar the options the better.
Replaced FRM, No Turn Signals - request assistance
New to me 2011 R55 Clubman S
Battery died with windows down (stereo and amp won't turn off)
FRM died with windows down while replacing the battery & alternator. TL:DR - Replaced FRM and everything seems to work except turn signals, emergency flashers and switch for headlights.
For short term - pulled wiring diagrams to figure out how to hotwire windows to go up.
Finding 4 wires and a ground made me think they run servo motors, so I left it alone.
I was lucky enough to have a week of good driving weather with the windows down and just covered the car at night.
I wasn't able to communicate with the FRM, so ordered one new from FCP.
(ECS showed out of stock and I hadn't seen their post in this thread yet, sorry.)
I was able to order the exact version that came out of the car, only to realize later that the previous owner upgraded from Halogen to OEM Bixenon, but kept the Halogen FRM and had it reprogrammed.
Located a copy of BMW Tools
(I got lucky just before the Bimmer Geeks link went offline)
Located a copy of SP Datens for R56. The first version I found was too old and caused errors. Found R56-V67 and had better luck.
Followed tutorial get software up and running.
(can I post a you-tube link to give credit for the tutorial?)
Used Coding Tool to import datens.
- Select [[u]SP Source] (selected R56 – V67)
- [[u]Update SP-Datens] (no back up of old files)
- [[u]Update WinKFP] (no back up of old files)
- both showed update successful – > close coding tool
** R56 did not show up in the INPA menu.
- Edit the config file ( c: > EC-APPS > INPA > PRT > ENGLISH > E3PROTOK )
- Note, must select [[u]EDIT] rather than [[u]OPEN]
- add the section (matching existing format):
F14 = R56
F14_Text = R56
F14_ARCHI = SGDB_R56
Open INPA
- Screen shows: Cable Connected [Yes], Ignition On [Yes]
- select [Shift + F4] for R56
- arrow keys down to [Body]
- [tab] and arrow keys to [Footwell Module Driver FRM]
- press [Enter]
- ignore warnings about language and version
- select [F1 – Information]
- this confirms the version of the FRM,
in my case:
Control Unit Description File: FRM_70
Control Unit: FRM II, FRM3R
Open WinKFP
- select [Comfort]
- Select [Update ECU]
- - Select FRMR3
- select [Enter VIN] (if option not listed, see tutorial to add menu item)
- input VIN (helps to have text to copy/paste handy)
- select [Back]
- select [Prog. ZB-Update]
- - wait while FRM is updated.
- close WinKFP
Open NCSExpert
- select [File] - > Manipulation
- select [Start]
- select [Chassis] - > R56
- select [CAS] - because this is the module we will get information from
- select [Back]
- select [FRM]
- select [Change Job Name]
- select [FA_Write]
- select [Execute Job]
- - wait while job is processed
- select [Change Job]
- select [SG Codieren]
- close NCSExpert
Headlights Always On No Emergency Flashers No Turn Signals
High and Low beam work normally
Cruise Control Buttons work
Radio Buttons Work
Menu button on turn signal stalk works normally.
Wipers front and back work
Windows Work
Map and Dome lights work
Interior mood lighting works
I appreciate the information everyone has shared in this thread – it's gotten me this far.
I do apologize if I've missed something obvious. I'll keep reading. I've made it about half way through this whole thread and I'm still spending time in the Beginners and DIY threads that are “stickied” at the beginning of the electrical section.
Thank in advance if anyone is able to help point me in the right direction.
New to me 2011 R55 Clubman S
Battery died with windows down (stereo and amp won't turn off)
FRM died with windows down while replacing the battery & alternator. TL:DR - Replaced FRM and everything seems to work except turn signals, emergency flashers and switch for headlights.
For short term - pulled wiring diagrams to figure out how to hotwire windows to go up.
Finding 4 wires and a ground made me think they run servo motors, so I left it alone.
I was lucky enough to have a week of good driving weather with the windows down and just covered the car at night.
I wasn't able to communicate with the FRM, so ordered one new from FCP.
(ECS showed out of stock and I hadn't seen their post in this thread yet, sorry.)
I was able to order the exact version that came out of the car, only to realize later that the previous owner upgraded from Halogen to OEM Bixenon, but kept the Halogen FRM and had it reprogrammed..
the symptoms you described are the common issues with a corrupted frm flash/software. It just needed to be reflashed.
As far as programming a new/user frm, I try to stay away from winkfp. For some reason, even when i select frm3 and run the program, once I go to code it with ncs it pops and error for incorrect version and it shows it as an frm2.
the symptoms you described are the common issues with a corrupted frm flash/software. It just needed to be reflashed.
As far as programming a new/user frm, I try to stay away from winkfp. For some reason, even when i select frm3 and run the program, once I go to code it with ncs it pops and error for incorrect version and it shows it as an frm2.
If I'm able to save the old one I'll keep it as a spare.
(My daughter already wants my car, I'll likely end up building a few R55's.)
What do you like as an alternative to winkfp?
I highly suspect that I have an issue with a footwell control module ground/earth. I've tried to figure out where/what/how, but even with a Chilton's repair manual with wiring diagrams I haven't be able to figure it. Anyone have an idea that might help me out?
for the frm, i use another command on ncs to write the vin and most times, i don't bother. But the most important thing is writing the FA to it.
ISTAP is more automated but VERY tricky because if you let it touch the ring bus, it will brick the radio or navi.
I use a kdcan cable which some say is not optimum for istap. Using ICOM with it is ideal.
- Thank you for your input. I'm just not getting back to working on this.
- Installed ISTAP and currently reading up on it before connecting to the car. Any pointers for keeping ISTAP contained?
- My head unit is already bugging out and my amp makes noise when it's off - so it'll all get replaced soon regardless. Seems a good time to learn to run ISTAP without too much risk - so it'll be safer to run when I get the next mini.
- Running the kdcan cable as well, but the impression I get is that the ICOM helps act as a buffer for slower PC's similar to the hardware controllers I use for CNC equipment - where older PC's could easily be interrupted by multitasking or running out of cache memory.
01-02-2023, 03:43 PM
can be recoded/reflashed/programmed to our VIN by one of the eBay services: $50 is most common price with one-day turnaround, but many charge more...
