I have recently made the change from MKIV GTI to a Mini CooperS.

LOVE the new car. HATE the new key.

The blade of the key itself is identical in size/shape to a MKIV key but has a massive "handle" portion.

I would like to mate the two. (or the spare key at least).

I want to use a MKIV flip handle with my MINI key. Im not to worried about mating the keys themselves, but im more wondering about programming the buttons to work for the mini.

Does any one know if this can be done? Or if i can simply buy a MINI flip key?

 

The cooper key is programed for more than just the lock and unlock functions... there are a couple of real good NAM threads (and experts, aparently) on the subject. You might search around. I'm not one of the experts -- but I do know that when I bring the car in for service, the "service advisor" can read the mileage off the key. I also suspect it's not as easy to get the "wormhole" key copied as it is a standard key, if only because there probably aren't many places that have the technology to cut the key. Getting a duplicate MINI key involves bringing in proof of ownership and waiting for a key to be sent from some somewhere far away, and about $150.00.... Since the wormhole is in itself a security feature, you'd probably have to convince MINI to carve it into a non-standard blank. Good luck....

You might just live with the bulky key for awhile and see if you can't get used to it!

 

The key is a transponder and talks to the car so when you bring it in for service, it will tell the tech that you overrevved the engine, and drove 130mph as well as telling your current mileage... and if you have an 05+ the key is recharged by the ignition.

 

can they void your warranty from the info they find out?

 

Are you serious ??? So... overrevving means what, exactly?

Anything else it tattles about?

 

Potentially, yes. However, that info is also recorded in the ECU. Getting it from the key is just a shortcut for the dealers so they don't have to hook the car itself up to the computer to get it.

 

Exceeding 4,500 rpm during the first 1,250 miles or before the engine gets to full warm.

The key is also an integrual part of the security system of the car. Without the key the engine will not run. It needs to be in close proximity to the steering wheel in order to respond to signals sent from the car. That is why they can't hotwire these cars and drive away.

 

LoL, don't worry guys, nothing in print states that revving the engine to redline when its not warmed up will void your warranty.

However, if you overrev the engine (shift into 1st gear at 80mph) thats a different story.

 

Thanks for the overreving explanation. I don't quite get the security feature part since the little plastic "last resort" key probably doesn't have any electronics but will start the car just fine....

I know I've read about the security stuff in past threads, but it just flew out of the grey matter after the quiz .

 

Actually yes, look at the little plastic key. It does have the transponder chip in it as well.

 

SO, one key for the good stuff, and one key for granny drivin....

 

Except that the data is still stored in the ECU no matter which key you use...

 

It was a joke.

 

Here are some of the problems you are going to run into with this project. I gave up on it and got used to the Mini key.

1. Double check that the blade is the exact same shape. Our Audi key has a groove in the side that the Mini doesn't have. I think VW is the same.

2. The electronic thingy in the key has to be very close to the steering column to start the car. Make sure you can get it close enough in the VW housing.

3. The shape of the VW housing is different than the recepticle on the Mini and the blade is oriented 90 degrees apart in both keys. I'm not sure the VW key will mate with the Mini column w/o modifying the column.

4. The Mini key contains a small circuit board with two buttons that operate the key functions. It will probably fit in the VW housing. You will have to make a custom button area in the VW housing (in the Audi key it pops out) or arrange the circuit board so that the stock buttons do the job. Not easy but should be logistically possible.

5. You can separate the blade of the Mini key from the electronics w/o damaging the key. There is a pin that holds it in place. If you took the electronic thingy and glued it to the blade, you could carry both parts w/o having a huge key. I didn't want to go that route, but it is an option.