Electrical Hacking steering wheel connections
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Join Date: Oct 2003
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Hacking steering wheel connections
I wanted to add a switch to my steering wheel (in my case for my V1 mute switch).... I've figured out a few things out about the 2-spoke steering wheel connections, both MSW & non-MSFW during this process. I thought I'd post the info here for anyone thinking about needing something similiar (nitrous trigger, ejector seat, etc etc)..... No idea if ANY of this applies to the 3-spoke wheel, but if the slip ring described below is the same part #s as the 2-spoke, it probably translates.
The connections from the wheel to the car are sent through a "slip ring". There are different slip rings, one for non-MSFW & one for MSFW, the difference is how many of the pins are used in the stock wiring, plus an extra socket inside the MSFW wheel.. The back of the slip ring has a 12-pin connector block (named X10195). The X10195 is common to both wheels.
The non-MFSW has a single 4-pin connector block inside the wheel that connects the 2 horn switches to the car via the slip ring. The horn connector block only uses 2 of its 4 pins, pins 1 & 4. Pins 2 & 3 are free. The X10195 is a 12-pin connector block, but only has 3 connector pins plugged in, pins 3, 4, & 6. Pins 3 and 6 are the horn circuit, I'm not sure what the pin 4 wire is for, since it doesn't connect to anything on the other side of the connector. I pulled out the pin 4 connector and isolated it from the connector block, and nothing stopped working that I can detect. This leaves 2 new free connections through the slip ring for the non-MFSW. Pin 2 of the 4-pin block connects to pin 4 of the X10195 block, and pin 3 of the 4-pin block connects to pin 5 of the X10195 block.
For a MFSW, there is a second connector block inside the wheel. It is an 8 connector block, but only pins 3, 4, 5, 7 & 8 are used, and pins 1, 2, & 6 are free. This leaves 3 more free connections for this wheel. I'm not able to determine which pins on the 8-pin block connect to which pins on the X10195 block since I don't have the MSFW slip ring in my car. I do know, however, that the MFSW wiring uses pins 1, 2, 8, 9, & 10. This leaves pins 7, 11, & 12 as the X10195 connections to the 8-pin MSFW block pins 1, 2 & 6. Someone with a MFSW would need to confirm that.
Ok, so what? You can go to your friendly MINI parts supplier and ask for part #61-13-0-005-199, described as "contact". This is simply a white small gauge pigtail connector, about 18 inches long, one end bare wire and the other end with the connector that snaps into any 3 of the connector blocks already mentioned in this post. I had to buy 4 of these to add a single pole, normally open switch to my car. They were $3 a pop at my dealer. This wire also has a small rubber "accordion boot" insulator. You need to simply pull this insulator off & crimp down the rings that held it attached to allow the connector to fit into the block. Figure out how to open the connector block (they're all different, study them for a while!), snap in the new connectors in the free pin slots you want to use, put the blocks back together, and you have a new connection through the steering wheel, isolated from the rest of the car.
Add you choice of switch to the steering wheel, connect the new wires to it. Connect the corresponding new wires from the X10195 connectors to whatever you're controlling.
For the MFSW people looking to use the "dead button" on the back of the wheel, the signals for all 10 MFSW switches are sent to the car via a circuit board in the LH button block across the 5 MSFW pins above. There is NO direct relationship between any of the buttons and what is sent to the car that can be "stolen" to use for something else. Other threads have discussed that option.
So, for those creative folks wanting to add something extra to your wheel, it's not that hard. Disconnect the battery & wait at least 5 seconds - this is recommended any time you're near the airbag. Loosen the airbag & pull it out of the way (you don't even have to disconnect it, but you can to get it completely out of the way), Unplug the connector block(s) inside the wheel and add new pins as described above. Pull off the steering column bottom cover, pull out the 12-pin X10195 block. There's 2 blocks plugged in, it's the one closer to the center of the car - the other one is the 4-pin airbag connector. Add the pins to the X10195 block & plug the connector block back in. Double check your new connections with a continuity tester of your choice. If you got connections, add your steering wheel switch & put the airbag back on. If no continuity, check that you plugged the pins into the right spots. Connect up your stuff in the car. Done deal.
Larry
The connections from the wheel to the car are sent through a "slip ring". There are different slip rings, one for non-MSFW & one for MSFW, the difference is how many of the pins are used in the stock wiring, plus an extra socket inside the MSFW wheel.. The back of the slip ring has a 12-pin connector block (named X10195). The X10195 is common to both wheels.
The non-MFSW has a single 4-pin connector block inside the wheel that connects the 2 horn switches to the car via the slip ring. The horn connector block only uses 2 of its 4 pins, pins 1 & 4. Pins 2 & 3 are free. The X10195 is a 12-pin connector block, but only has 3 connector pins plugged in, pins 3, 4, & 6. Pins 3 and 6 are the horn circuit, I'm not sure what the pin 4 wire is for, since it doesn't connect to anything on the other side of the connector. I pulled out the pin 4 connector and isolated it from the connector block, and nothing stopped working that I can detect. This leaves 2 new free connections through the slip ring for the non-MFSW. Pin 2 of the 4-pin block connects to pin 4 of the X10195 block, and pin 3 of the 4-pin block connects to pin 5 of the X10195 block.
For a MFSW, there is a second connector block inside the wheel. It is an 8 connector block, but only pins 3, 4, 5, 7 & 8 are used, and pins 1, 2, & 6 are free. This leaves 3 more free connections for this wheel. I'm not able to determine which pins on the 8-pin block connect to which pins on the X10195 block since I don't have the MSFW slip ring in my car. I do know, however, that the MFSW wiring uses pins 1, 2, 8, 9, & 10. This leaves pins 7, 11, & 12 as the X10195 connections to the 8-pin MSFW block pins 1, 2 & 6. Someone with a MFSW would need to confirm that.
Ok, so what? You can go to your friendly MINI parts supplier and ask for part #61-13-0-005-199, described as "contact". This is simply a white small gauge pigtail connector, about 18 inches long, one end bare wire and the other end with the connector that snaps into any 3 of the connector blocks already mentioned in this post. I had to buy 4 of these to add a single pole, normally open switch to my car. They were $3 a pop at my dealer. This wire also has a small rubber "accordion boot" insulator. You need to simply pull this insulator off & crimp down the rings that held it attached to allow the connector to fit into the block. Figure out how to open the connector block (they're all different, study them for a while!), snap in the new connectors in the free pin slots you want to use, put the blocks back together, and you have a new connection through the steering wheel, isolated from the rest of the car.
Add you choice of switch to the steering wheel, connect the new wires to it. Connect the corresponding new wires from the X10195 connectors to whatever you're controlling.
For the MFSW people looking to use the "dead button" on the back of the wheel, the signals for all 10 MFSW switches are sent to the car via a circuit board in the LH button block across the 5 MSFW pins above. There is NO direct relationship between any of the buttons and what is sent to the car that can be "stolen" to use for something else. Other threads have discussed that option.
So, for those creative folks wanting to add something extra to your wheel, it's not that hard. Disconnect the battery & wait at least 5 seconds - this is recommended any time you're near the airbag. Loosen the airbag & pull it out of the way (you don't even have to disconnect it, but you can to get it completely out of the way), Unplug the connector block(s) inside the wheel and add new pins as described above. Pull off the steering column bottom cover, pull out the 12-pin X10195 block. There's 2 blocks plugged in, it's the one closer to the center of the car - the other one is the 4-pin airbag connector. Add the pins to the X10195 block & plug the connector block back in. Double check your new connections with a continuity tester of your choice. If you got connections, add your steering wheel switch & put the airbag back on. If no continuity, check that you plugged the pins into the right spots. Connect up your stuff in the car. Done deal.
Larry
#3
Originally Posted by AZLarryB
For the MFSW people looking to use the "dead button" on the back of the wheel, the signals for all 10 MFSW switches are sent to the car via a circuit board in the LH button block across the 5 MSFW pins above. There is NO direct relationship between any of the buttons and what is sent to the car that can be "stolen" to use for something else. Other threads have discussed that option.
I use Ian's iBus Remote circuit to toggle DSC with the rear left dead button on my MFSW.
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