F55/F56 F56 Oil Change Procedures
#26
#27
I order all of my oil online for the Mini and get exactly what I want; ECS Tuning offers a great deal and fast shipping.
However, according to the Mini Owner's Manual:
Viscosity grades for engine oils - When selecting an engine oil, ensure that the engine oil belongs to one of the viscosity grades SAE 0W-40, SAE 0W-30, SAE 5W-40, and
SAE 5W-30 or malfunctions or engine damage may occur. The engine oil quality is critical for the life of the engine.
Approved oil types - You can add oils with the following specifications:
Gasoline engine:
BMW Longlife-01 BMW Longlife-01 FE
Additional information about the approved types of oils can be requested from the service center. Alternative oil types If the approved engine oils are not available, up to 1 US quart/liter of an oil with the following specification can be added: Gasoline engine API SM or superior grade specification
Engine oil change: The vehicle manufacturer recommends that you let the service center change the motor oil. Mini recommends Castrol.
However, according to the Mini Owner's Manual:
Viscosity grades for engine oils - When selecting an engine oil, ensure that the engine oil belongs to one of the viscosity grades SAE 0W-40, SAE 0W-30, SAE 5W-40, and
SAE 5W-30 or malfunctions or engine damage may occur. The engine oil quality is critical for the life of the engine.
Approved oil types - You can add oils with the following specifications:
Gasoline engine:
BMW Longlife-01 BMW Longlife-01 FE
Additional information about the approved types of oils can be requested from the service center. Alternative oil types If the approved engine oils are not available, up to 1 US quart/liter of an oil with the following specification can be added: Gasoline engine API SM or superior grade specification
Engine oil change: The vehicle manufacturer recommends that you let the service center change the motor oil. Mini recommends Castrol.
#28
Thanks for the above info!
I decided to do my first oil change past weekend at 2700 miles on my a-month-old MCS using the two access panels AFTER reading the above.
I gave a brief thought about removing the complete panel (like I have to on my Mustang 5.0 w/ no access panel), but determined it was a bit too much PIA.
IMO, the two panels are more than adequate for accesing the crankcase oil drain plug and oil filter.
Wait! Those 2 panels are exactly what they are desingned for!
Last edited by Chazman; 11-03-2014 at 12:32 PM.
#29
#30
jtoddpaul - Thanks for the nice words.
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#31
just a thought on oil changes. For those of you that want to change your own oil and save money or just enjoy doing it, more power to you. But I suggest that you find an effective way of documenting it regarding the date and the type of oil, etc. Maybe a video tape of the process with the receipt of the oil, etc.?
The reason I don't do this is because of the nature of the Mini. It is critical that oil be changed and properly done. That is why I go to the dealer, even if I have to pay more.
I have a 2007 R56S, which is low mileage and not driven hard. It is my weekend car. But I change the oil every 5K miles at the dealer, no matter what.
I happened to be at the dealer the other day, when I heard about an owner who had an engine failure, and claimed the cost with Mini. But they could not show that the oil had been changed over a period of 27,000 miles, even though they claimed that they had. I doubt that they will get Mini to pay for much, if anything.
These cars are high performance cars, and they can have issues They have to be maintained well. But there also has to be proof that they were maintained. That is why I go to the dealer. My car is long out of warranty, but if a defect shows up like a timing chain issue, etc; they said they would have my back, if I keep changing the oil like I have. It is worth it to me.
The reason I don't do this is because of the nature of the Mini. It is critical that oil be changed and properly done. That is why I go to the dealer, even if I have to pay more.
I have a 2007 R56S, which is low mileage and not driven hard. It is my weekend car. But I change the oil every 5K miles at the dealer, no matter what.
I happened to be at the dealer the other day, when I heard about an owner who had an engine failure, and claimed the cost with Mini. But they could not show that the oil had been changed over a period of 27,000 miles, even though they claimed that they had. I doubt that they will get Mini to pay for much, if anything.
These cars are high performance cars, and they can have issues They have to be maintained well. But there also has to be proof that they were maintained. That is why I go to the dealer. My car is long out of warranty, but if a defect shows up like a timing chain issue, etc; they said they would have my back, if I keep changing the oil like I have. It is worth it to me.
#32
just a thought on oil changes. For those of you that want to change your own oil and save money or just enjoy doing it, more power to you. But I suggest that you find an effective way of documenting it regarding the date and the type of oil, etc. Maybe a video tape of the process with the receipt of the oil, etc.?
The reason I don't do this is because of the nature of the Mini. It is critical that oil be changed and properly done. That is why I go to the dealer, even if I have to pay more.
I have a 2007 R56S, which is low mileage and not driven hard. It is my weekend car. But I change the oil every 5K miles at the dealer, no matter what.
I happened to be at the dealer the other day, when I heard about an owner who had an engine failure, and claimed the cost with Mini. But they could not show that the oil had been changed over a period of 27,000 miles, even though they claimed that they had. I doubt that they will get Mini to pay for much, if anything.
These cars are high performance cars, and they can have issues They have to be maintained well. But there also has to be proof that they were maintained. That is why I go to the dealer. My car is long out of warranty, but if a defect shows up like a timing chain issue, etc; they said they would have my back, if I keep changing the oil like I have. It is worth it to me.
The reason I don't do this is because of the nature of the Mini. It is critical that oil be changed and properly done. That is why I go to the dealer, even if I have to pay more.
I have a 2007 R56S, which is low mileage and not driven hard. It is my weekend car. But I change the oil every 5K miles at the dealer, no matter what.
I happened to be at the dealer the other day, when I heard about an owner who had an engine failure, and claimed the cost with Mini. But they could not show that the oil had been changed over a period of 27,000 miles, even though they claimed that they had. I doubt that they will get Mini to pay for much, if anything.
These cars are high performance cars, and they can have issues They have to be maintained well. But there also has to be proof that they were maintained. That is why I go to the dealer. My car is long out of warranty, but if a defect shows up like a timing chain issue, etc; they said they would have my back, if I keep changing the oil like I have. It is worth it to me.
To each his own however.
#33
#34
But also true for today's many cars if not all (with internal combustion engine that uses oil).
Completely opposite here.
That is why I do it myself .
#35
#36
I added only 5 qts and the dash indicated 97% full.
So, I'm guessing 5.3 qts would make 100% or little higher (dunno).
Would the electronic dip stick indicate higher than 100% on the dash if added too much?
For example, if someone puts in 6 qts total, would it indicate something like 118%?
I'm still at 97% right now after driving about 100 miles.
#37
#38
Indy
I take the used oil to Autozone. They take back pretty much everything (except hydraulic fluid), including old parts like rotors. I'm sure the other parts chains offer the same service. I've been taking care of my own vehicles for some time now. If nothing else, it's a great way to "know" what's going on with your car, and I have the confidence it's done right. I have a European shop that I have a great relationship with; if I'm not confident about what I need to do, I'll take my cars there. I've never been a fan of dealerships for several reasons.
#39
#40
$49.99 @ the dealer.......in and out in 45minutes or less.
OEM oil, filter, and the peace of mind it is done correctly.
Ever hear of the guy who drove off to work the next day and droped the oil out a loose plug or filter?
Cost him a new engine, and for saving very little cash.......Nightmare!?!?!?
I hear and see PEEPS talk about the dealers like they have a virus or something.
Don't understand the inability to have a good relationship with the dealer whom sold you the car to start with. But I guess it happens.
They pay for the 1 year/10,000k
I pay for the 6 month/5,000k
Great trade off, yes?
Motor On Guys n Gals
OEM oil, filter, and the peace of mind it is done correctly.
Ever hear of the guy who drove off to work the next day and droped the oil out a loose plug or filter?
Cost him a new engine, and for saving very little cash.......Nightmare!?!?!?
I hear and see PEEPS talk about the dealers like they have a virus or something.
Don't understand the inability to have a good relationship with the dealer whom sold you the car to start with. But I guess it happens.
They pay for the 1 year/10,000k
I pay for the 6 month/5,000k
Great trade off, yes?
Motor On Guys n Gals
#41
Quite frankly, I'm not that interested enough to get the oil analyzed. It would be great to know the results, but either way, it won't change anything for me. One thing of interest that I noticed was how much lighter in color the Mini Synthetic 5W-30 appears to be right out of the bottle. Plus how much darker the oil is coming out of the vehicle (although my understanding of synthetic oils is that this is normal as they contain lots of detergents and additives that keeps the engine clean and pulls much of the moisture out of the system).
Oil analysis shows more than metal wear, it gives you an idea about filtration integrity, presence of antifreeze (faulty head gasket), fuel dilution (faulty injectors), water (moisture), viscosity, insolubles, flash point, remaining Base number and the strength of the additive package. These things aren't measurable by the human eye and nose.
IMO, early oil changes, without data to back up its benefits, has more of a placebo effect. It's like using expensive dietary supplements without relying on blood tests to find out if the body actually absorbs them.
#42
I also plan on getting my oil changed as above.
I was curious: would the Conditions based service indicators change (date or mileage for service) if oil was changed more often?
Since MINI pays for the service when the indicators dictate service be performed, I was concerned that I'd be receiving fewer MINI paid for services by going the above route.
FYI, I had the oil changed at around 1000 mi (post break in), and I plan on having it changed again at 5000 mi (paid for by me), then MINI at 10K or when the service indicators dictate, then at 15K (paid for by me), etc...
Has anyone located a service milestone's list (ie. mileage, and the services to be performed?) I can't seem to locate any such document for the F56 apart from "look at the conditions based indicators", which doesn't tell the user anything.
I was curious: would the Conditions based service indicators change (date or mileage for service) if oil was changed more often?
Since MINI pays for the service when the indicators dictate service be performed, I was concerned that I'd be receiving fewer MINI paid for services by going the above route.
FYI, I had the oil changed at around 1000 mi (post break in), and I plan on having it changed again at 5000 mi (paid for by me), then MINI at 10K or when the service indicators dictate, then at 15K (paid for by me), etc...
Has anyone located a service milestone's list (ie. mileage, and the services to be performed?) I can't seem to locate any such document for the F56 apart from "look at the conditions based indicators", which doesn't tell the user anything.
#43
#45
#46
Here are some more info for F56 Justa. I found a PDF file from MINI somewhere while searching technical specs some time ago.
F56/F56S:
Engine oil 4.25 L (4.49 US Qt) / 5.0 L (5.28 US Qt)
Coolant 5.3 L (1.4 Gal) / 5.8 L (1.53 Gal)
Fuel tank 40 L (10.56 Gal) / 44 L (11.62 Gal)
Some other noticeables:
Battery capacity 70 Ah vs 80 Ah. I'm guessing the starter motor requires more power for the 4 cylinder.
Drag coefficient 0.28 vs 0.31, along with slightly larger surface area for F56S. Might be from the chin and fake air intake on the hood?
Transmission oil really says "lifetime" fluid. I would drain and fill on 60K at the latest.
F56/F56S:
Engine oil 4.25 L (4.49 US Qt) / 5.0 L (5.28 US Qt)
Coolant 5.3 L (1.4 Gal) / 5.8 L (1.53 Gal)
Fuel tank 40 L (10.56 Gal) / 44 L (11.62 Gal)
Some other noticeables:
Battery capacity 70 Ah vs 80 Ah. I'm guessing the starter motor requires more power for the 4 cylinder.
Drag coefficient 0.28 vs 0.31, along with slightly larger surface area for F56S. Might be from the chin and fake air intake on the hood?
Transmission oil really says "lifetime" fluid. I would drain and fill on 60K at the latest.
#47
Yes I just reset mine the other day because the Scottsdale Mini dealership forgot to reset mine a few weeks ago: Press both buttons on the tach (trip reset button on right and guage/moodlighting intensity on left in my car) for several seconds. Menu on screen straight ahead (not center screen) shows oil can, front brakes, rear brakes. Push center stalk to highlight the one you want to reset, then press/hold center stalk button until something happens. Remember I don't have the same car as you, but it might work the same.
#48
I couldn't find the drain nor the fill location on mine.
#49
I'm pretty sure somebody will figure out the ATF drain and fill later on. They put it in so there's got to be a way in.
#50