F55/F56 Dynamic Damper question
#1
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hot Springs Village, AR
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Dynamic Damper question
We ordered our 2015 with the Dynamic Damper option, and have a question about it. Ours was the first car to come in with that option, and I don't think the dealership really knows the answer to our question, or maybe we're just not expressing it well. This is a question ONLY for the F56; my search brought too many answers that related to the R56 (even though I selected Gen 3).
What we want to know is can the Sport Mode be operated without the suspension stiffening? I prefer the Sport Mode as far as steering feel and throttle response, and I drive that way any time I'm alone (I did in my R56 as well). Hubby doesn't like it, though, saying that it makes the suspension too rough for him. I suspect my more adequate...um...padding makes a difference.
Is it possible to have the Sport Mode on, but have the ride the same as in the default "normal" Mode?
What we want to know is can the Sport Mode be operated without the suspension stiffening? I prefer the Sport Mode as far as steering feel and throttle response, and I drive that way any time I'm alone (I did in my R56 as well). Hubby doesn't like it, though, saying that it makes the suspension too rough for him. I suspect my more adequate...um...padding makes a difference.
Is it possible to have the Sport Mode on, but have the ride the same as in the default "normal" Mode?
#2
#3
#6
Yes, I really like the Dynamic Dampers, makes for a much more focussed drive in Sport. I skipped the Sport Suspension to avoid making the ride too tough. I drive mostly in Normal, use Sport about 25% of the time, and never use Green.
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I honestly don't know. Ever see the movie "Rush," about Formula 1? You know the part where Nikki Lauda says he has an "educated butt," or something like that? Well, I don't. They feel the same to me. Huge difference to my Hubby. Might have something to do with my extra padding...
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#8
You can definitely feel the difference in ride smoothness between Mid and Sport with this option. I also skipped Sport Suspension because I think MINIs ride on the verge of uncomfortable as is. From what I can tell, I get similar ride stiffness as SS when in Sport mode but can also mellow out the ride a bit in Mid.
Off topic but commenting from above, Green mode drains all the fun out of these cars.
#9
#10
I believe it's lumped together under the chassis setting for Sport mode. It's not like you can dial it up or down at will. In Mid mode if you pay attention to how smooth the ride feels then switch into Sport mode you can feel a distinct difference.
I don't know if Green is different than Mid.
I don't know if Green is different than Mid.
#11
#12
I have the DDS, but rarely change the settings. However, if I'm not mistaken, with the automatic transmission version, if you move the lever to the left, you increase the engine responsiveness. Steering remains the same, and the shift points are more aggressive. Want to make a quick getaway from the toll booth or when the light goes green, just move that lever to the left.
#13
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I have the DDS, but rarely change the settings. However, if I'm not mistaken, with the automatic transmission version, if you move the lever to the left, you increase the engine responsiveness. Steering remains the same, and the shift points are more aggressive. Want to make a quick getaway from the toll booth or when the light goes green, just move that lever to the left.
I might add, I was used to driving in Sport mode 100% of the time with my '07, but I didn't have any suspension mods, nor did I have the sport suspension.
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As for break in, generally speaking you want to vary your speeds, and RPMs. Don't plan on setting cruise control and blasting hour after hour down the interstate. More than worrying about sport mode, I'd worry about holding steady speeds. Especially for the first few hundred miles, you should be that irritating guy who doesn't keep the same speeds, especially if your roads don't make you change power settings. Nice twisties do wonders.
Drive normally! Just keep it under 100.
I'd also change the oil after about 1500 miles, even if you have to pay someone to do it for you.
#16
DDC only increases the shock absorber resistance. It was estimated 10% stiffer than normal. The sport suspension permanently stiffens shocks, springs, and sway bars for an estimated 30% increase.
Tire selection will affect ride more than either of those "suspension" options. It takes a bit longer to change four wheels for differing driver preferences though.
Tire selection will affect ride more than either of those "suspension" options. It takes a bit longer to change four wheels for differing driver preferences though.
#17
I don't understand why you won't drive in sport mode until it gets broken in. It's a common comment, so please don't feel I'm picking on you. RPMs do NOT get too high. It really doesn't have much to do with it. Sport mode changes the FEEL of the steering--makes it a little stiffer. It also improves the throttle response time. In my R56, I found that I tended to have a bit of a problem getting a smooth shift at low speeds unless I used sport mode. A few other people made the same comment, when the R56 came out. As for break in, generally speaking you want to vary your speeds, and RPMs. Don't plan on setting cruise control and blasting hour after hour down the interstate. More than worrying about sport mode, I'd worry about holding steady speeds. Especially for the first few hundred miles, you should be that irritating guy who doesn't keep the same speeds, especially if your roads don't make you change power settings. Nice twisties do wonders. Drive normally! Just keep it under 100. I'd also change the oil after about 1500 miles, even if you have to pay someone to do it for you.
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No worries. I didn't take any offense at all. That is actually great feedback and information. This is what I love about this forum :-) I guess this just shows I am not fully educated on proper break in procedure but I will now take your advice and use sport mode tomorrow. I have not and will not use cruise control until after break in. I did take a nice drive up the mountain the other day so it was nice to see how the car handled on the twisties and it definitely helped vary the speed and RPM's. I elected to tell myself to get the oil changed early the first time. Is 1500 miles the time it should be done and then stick to the regular scheduled maintenance? Also, when you drive in sport, and since you have the Dynamic Dampers, are you configuring it to leave the suspension normal like in mid mode? Will it still allow the steering to be firm? Thanks again for your feedback!!! :-) :-) :-)
I'll tell you about another car I'm familiar with, where this could have made a difference. A fellow who had recently had an engine overhaul done on his rare and very valuable British classic car (not a MINI or Mini, and not a modern car), noticed that his car had a knock. In checking further, he found that metal shavings hadn't been properly cleaned out of the cylinders, and they were badly scored. Now, I realize this isn't an entirely similar situation, and I also realize that MINI's assembly line techniques probably would have prevented the problem. I mention it, though, because an engine was nearly ruined--and major repairs are absolutely needed--because of small metal particles. I personally would prefer to sweep as many of these particles away! I'd also like to take a look at the drained oil and the oil filter to make sure nothing's going bad in a crucial time in my engine's life. I like to keep my cars for a long time. If you trade cars as soon as they're out of warranty, this might not be necessary for you.
Hubby's been getting used to the sport mode, and even voluntarily drives in it on twisties. Since I can't feel the added roughness, most likely I'll continue to drive in sport mode any time he's not with me (most of the time), and let him choose what he wants when we drive together. In about a year we'll be replacing the runflats with nonrunflats, and that will probably make a difference, too.
#19
The 1500 miles is a somewhat arbitrary interval for the first oil change. It's something WE do, but I realize most owners won't, since it isn't covered under the MINI service plan. After that first oil change, we'll revert to a more normal interval, but it's still likely to include more changes than MINI will pay for under the service plan. Hubby works cheap, and we have a place to do the work. He estimates it costs $35 for the best grade of Mobil 1 and a filter. Pretty cheap insurance, I say. I'll tell you about another car I'm familiar with, where this could have made a difference. A fellow who had recently had an engine overhaul done on his rare and very valuable British classic car (not a MINI or Mini, and not a modern car), noticed that his car had a knock. In checking further, he found that metal shavings hadn't been properly cleaned out of the cylinders, and they were badly scored. Now, I realize this isn't an entirely similar situation, and I also realize that MINI's assembly line techniques probably would have prevented the problem. I mention it, though, because an engine was nearly ruined--and major repairs are absolutely needed--because of small metal particles. I personally would prefer to sweep as many of these particles away! I'd also like to take a look at the drained oil and the oil filter to make sure nothing's going bad in a crucial time in my engine's life. I like to keep my cars for a long time. If you trade cars as soon as they're out of warranty, this might not be necessary for you. Hubby's been getting used to the sport mode, and even voluntarily drives in it on twisties. Since I can't feel the added roughness, most likely I'll continue to drive in sport mode any time he's not with me (most of the time), and let him choose what he wants when we drive together. In about a year we'll be replacing the runflats with nonrunflats, and that will probably make a difference, too.
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