F55/F56 Cooper S F56 dyno mode: success
#1
Cooper S F56 dyno mode: success
Tested on Supersprint dyno (just front rollers).
Here's how we did it.
Initially we had trouble (engine was cutting power).
The issue was that the car was tested once without activating the dyno mode.
We drove it a bit on the road to make the errors disappear then we did it like this:
1) Press the ignition lever once to turn the dash on
2) immediately keep the odometer reset button pressed for 15 seconds. The hidden menu will appear
3) press the button twice to go into "roller test"
4) keep the button pressed 3 seconds to activate it. You'll see a orange triangle then the start stop and DSC icons slashed
5) turn on the car and leave it on
6) put it on the dyno and set it up to be tested (OBDII plug etc)
7) activate the sport mode with the gearleve ring
8) launch
Car completely stock, tested on our in-house MAHA brake dyno, with water cooling for the IC.
206 hp and 309 nm:
Comparison with a R56 LCI:
Here's how we did it.
Initially we had trouble (engine was cutting power).
The issue was that the car was tested once without activating the dyno mode.
We drove it a bit on the road to make the errors disappear then we did it like this:
1) Press the ignition lever once to turn the dash on
2) immediately keep the odometer reset button pressed for 15 seconds. The hidden menu will appear
3) press the button twice to go into "roller test"
4) keep the button pressed 3 seconds to activate it. You'll see a orange triangle then the start stop and DSC icons slashed
5) turn on the car and leave it on
6) put it on the dyno and set it up to be tested (OBDII plug etc)
7) activate the sport mode with the gearleve ring
8) launch
Car completely stock, tested on our in-house MAHA brake dyno, with water cooling for the IC.
206 hp and 309 nm:
Comparison with a R56 LCI:
Last edited by Gardus; 10-28-2014 at 12:10 AM.
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Enok555 (12-30-2021)
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#9
Yeah but other than bragging rights I'm still wishing for a bit more acceleration, regardless of how much power the dyno says we have on tap.
#10
The "f56 lcl" has the recommended output for the f56.... What's the difference between the two? Is it really meant to be R56?
Last edited by honderpilot; 10-27-2014 at 10:48 PM.
#11
Sorry it was meant to be R56 LCI, which stands for Life Cycle Impulse, it's the facelift so the N18 engine with valvetronic, 183 hp.
The tests were done in 5th gear.
If you don't understand the charts:
http://www.supersprint.com/en/doc-s-..._accurate.aspx
Copy pasted for your convenience:
"We test the cars, both stock and with the exhaust, on our MAHA 4x4 brake dyno, which guarantee the highest precision of the measurement.
It doesn’t simply measure the WHP (wheel horse power) and then adjust it with approximated factors, but it measures the power absorption, the ambient temperature, pressure and humidity, the air intake and engine oil temperatures and all the values transmitted through the car diagnostic port.
The runs are repeated till the values become consistent.
This allows our R&D staff to ensure the test runs are valid and the values of the car in the different configurations are comparable against each others.
We publish the results without any graphic editing, with all the values of the test associated, for maximum clarity and honesty.
Here is an example of as dyno chart (Mercedes SLS AMG):
Terms translation:
Norm-Leistung: crank horse power, corrected by ambient values
Motorleistung: crank horse power, not correctd (sum of power loss and wheel horse power)
Radleistung: wheel horse power
Schleppleistung: power loss by friction and rotational masses inertia (includes drivetrain, tyres, dyno rollers), measured during deceleration.
Max. Leistung bei: max power revs / relative speed
Drehmoment: torque
Max Drehmoment bei: max torque revs / relative speed
Max erreichte Drehzahl: rev limiter / relative speed
EWG correction factor, calculates the variation from measured and absolute power based on the ambient conditions. DIN factor is obsolete and less precise.
On the right side of the page are ambient conditions during the test.
Umgebungs-Temperatur: ambient temperature
Ansaugluft-Temperature: initial intake air temperature
Relative Luftfeuchte: humidity
Luftdruck: atmospheric pressure
Dampfdruck: relative pressure from the standard (1013,2 hPa)
Ol-Temperatur: engine oil temperature
In this charts you can various curves, trasmitted from the car by the OBD II diagnostic port: A/F Ratio (purple - Lambda (OBD) II), air intake temperature (light blue - T Anslaugluft °C), intake air mass (violet, V Luftmerge gm/s)."
The tests were done in 5th gear.
If you don't understand the charts:
http://www.supersprint.com/en/doc-s-..._accurate.aspx
Copy pasted for your convenience:
"We test the cars, both stock and with the exhaust, on our MAHA 4x4 brake dyno, which guarantee the highest precision of the measurement.
It doesn’t simply measure the WHP (wheel horse power) and then adjust it with approximated factors, but it measures the power absorption, the ambient temperature, pressure and humidity, the air intake and engine oil temperatures and all the values transmitted through the car diagnostic port.
The runs are repeated till the values become consistent.
This allows our R&D staff to ensure the test runs are valid and the values of the car in the different configurations are comparable against each others.
We publish the results without any graphic editing, with all the values of the test associated, for maximum clarity and honesty.
Here is an example of as dyno chart (Mercedes SLS AMG):
Terms translation:
Norm-Leistung: crank horse power, corrected by ambient values
Motorleistung: crank horse power, not correctd (sum of power loss and wheel horse power)
Radleistung: wheel horse power
Schleppleistung: power loss by friction and rotational masses inertia (includes drivetrain, tyres, dyno rollers), measured during deceleration.
Max. Leistung bei: max power revs / relative speed
Drehmoment: torque
Max Drehmoment bei: max torque revs / relative speed
Max erreichte Drehzahl: rev limiter / relative speed
EWG correction factor, calculates the variation from measured and absolute power based on the ambient conditions. DIN factor is obsolete and less precise.
On the right side of the page are ambient conditions during the test.
Umgebungs-Temperatur: ambient temperature
Ansaugluft-Temperature: initial intake air temperature
Relative Luftfeuchte: humidity
Luftdruck: atmospheric pressure
Dampfdruck: relative pressure from the standard (1013,2 hPa)
Ol-Temperatur: engine oil temperature
In this charts you can various curves, trasmitted from the car by the OBD II diagnostic port: A/F Ratio (purple - Lambda (OBD) II), air intake temperature (light blue - T Anslaugluft °C), intake air mass (violet, V Luftmerge gm/s)."
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The F56 mantains max power from 4800 up to 6200, it's like a plateu.
Ideally you should remain in this range to get the best performance, with the manual gearbox is not really possibile, I haven't done this test but you'll probably fall to 4000 rpm if you change at the rev limiter.
The automatic 'box can probably take more advange of this as it has closer ratios.
The R56 doesn't have such a sustained level of power so you may feel a rush of power toward the rev limiter, but the F56 is actually much faster.
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#16
Rev limited is around 6400 and it's smooth. Not much worth it going above 6300.
I'll post the next charts. There is quite a lot of weight to save removing the OEM muffler, but there is a risk of droning.
The most interesting thing will be the gains with the downpipe, on the N20 (328i) it got 15+ hp at the crank without a ECU tune.
About the tune, there is the issue of the warranty, the car is brand new.
I'll post the next charts. There is quite a lot of weight to save removing the OEM muffler, but there is a risk of droning.
The most interesting thing will be the gains with the downpipe, on the N20 (328i) it got 15+ hp at the crank without a ECU tune.
About the tune, there is the issue of the warranty, the car is brand new.
#18
Agreed, even at 206hp it is a little embarrassing with three full grown adults in the car and someone suggests an acceleration blast. Alone in the car, it's satisfying, with two people it is adequate but three+ people....
#20
Thats a good perspective, I drove my friends brand new gti and it had to much wheel spin for me. I love our f56 and use every excuse not to take people other people because I'm a selfish power junky and want the maximum driving pleasure for myself.
#21
My daily drive is a Megane RS 250, it has LSD and Michelin Pilot Supersport tyres, ~300hp / 430nm, I would say it's quite faster than the Mini on a straight line and even with 3-4 people on board it has decent acceleration without too much wheelsping.
GTIs tends to struggle to get the power down, but the K04 turbo engines are real beasts.
A Golf Edition 35 can get up to 350hp!
I think the Cooper S with the full exhaust and a good tune for ~260hp, like the PP-Performance tune or similar, will be satisfying even in 3-4 people.
GTIs tends to struggle to get the power down, but the K04 turbo engines are real beasts.
A Golf Edition 35 can get up to 350hp!
I think the Cooper S with the full exhaust and a good tune for ~260hp, like the PP-Performance tune or similar, will be satisfying even in 3-4 people.
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#24
I keep reminding myself of that. My 535 was rated at 0-60 in about 5.5, but I felt like I was getting better than that when I had it.
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