Is everyone taking it easy on their cars? I'm on a lease, so I'm thinking what the heck....let's just beat the crap out of it from the get-go. If a 335i or similar car can handle the old "autobahn break-in" on a European delivery, I would think a JCW Mini is made just as well from a performance standpoint. Anyone who's done this had any problems yet? Perhaps a former MCS owner can chime in?

 

I picked up mine with 7 miles on her. Drove her home loaded her up and then drove to Vegas 2600 miles to my other home. I had a heck of a time not pushing her past the required limits for the break in period. But as I watched the magic number click by on the odo, I pushed her up to 130 on this really straight *** road with no body on it but me, some lizards and a tumble weed or 5. Car would have just kept going too, but the road surface started to get really rough and sanity started to kick in.

 

This really is an ongoing debate, with no real end in sight. There seems to be one point on which everyone agrees, and one on which they cannot agree:

AGREE: vary your revs in the first 1000 miles or so; don't stay at a constant 2200 rpms on the freeway for 4 hour straight. And probably avoid idling for long periods in stop and go traffic.

NO AGREEMENT: should you keep the RPMs under a certain limit (say, 4000) for the break-in period, or should you go ahead and push the car a bit. Owner's manuals all still say to stay under the limit, but a lot of engine tuners and experts on today's engines with synthetic oil say that an engine breaks in better if you ocassionally push it up closer to redline during the break-in period. You do NOT want to take your car straight to the track and you do not want to run it at 130mph for a long period of time.

A lot of folks swear that a car that's pushed in the first 1000 miles will end up with a longer-lasting engine AND will rate higher on a dyno.

There's another reason not to trust the manual, if you are so inclined: it tells you to change your oil for the first time at 8K-15K miles (whenever the system says it needs changing), but I can't think of a single engine tuner or mechanic who wouldn't say that a new engine should be drained at least once at around 1K miles.

 

Just to keep a running vote, I am from the "drive it like you stole it" club from day 1.

 

The oil thing I really dont agree with you on, some do change it too soon, I have had many cars and a few civics, the first oil change is 7K, the oil they but in at factory should be keep in longer, this is a age old question, all the oil testing , blah, blah blah, do it if you want too, many racing civics have over 200K and they follow the monitor......just my 2 cents

 

Hi Cybergypsy,

I hear what you are saying. I may not even bother with an early oil change myself, as I think the MINI recommended schedule is unlikely to cause any problems in the first 100K.

But I do know that a lot of folks who DID change the oil early in their R56 MINI found PLENTY of metal in it. And there's a pretty good argument to say that it's better to get that stuff out of your engine earlier rather than later. But again, it may not make a difference.

 

In my opinion just drive it normally. Nothing crazy but if you feel like getting on the gas, just go for it. I dont think it will make too much of a difference if your not planning on keeping the car forever.

 

Even if you drive it hard from day one (which I didn't do), shouldn't one still break-in the clutch and brakes for a few hundred miles? Of course driving the engine hard doesn't mean riding the brakes, but still...

 

I'm keeping it under 4500rpm (or trying to!) for the 1st 1250 or 1500 miles... And making sure I'm not @ a constant rpm for longer than about 5 or 10 minutes.

 

Keep her under 5ooo rpms for the first tank. Under 6000 for the second. Than let her rip.

 

That is exactly why the oil is changed right after breakin. To get all the crap out of the engine from the breakin wear. I know it's syn oil but there will still be crap in there. I changed mine at 1250, then every 5000 after that.. Cheap insurance IMHO.

 

Drive it like you stole it, vary the RPMS and as already stated change the oil at 1K and 5K for cheap insurance.

 

Every single car I have purchased I broke in hard right out of the box. I never paid any attention to the MPH or RPM and always change the oil at 1K. What I never did was stay at a set RPM for more than 20 minutes for the first 1K and never stayed ad idle for more than a couple of minutes. After that I drive them they way I always drive. I have purchased many performance cars and regular cars and always followed this procedure. I agree that I have heard and seen the so called " harder break in's" yeild higer HP on the dyno and seem to just run better....my .02

 

Something to take into consideration. During engine assembly many diffrent types of lubricants are used...for Cam shafts, to piston ring assy to crank and these oils are mixed in with the factory first oil fill up. So just my .02 says you will have a higher amount od debris along with assembly fluids....thats why I belive in the 1K oil change.

 

I forgot all about the other fuilds during assembly. I can see where a 1K change would be good.
I like to stretch my cars legs soon after taking delivery (couple of 100). Once you red line them for a stretch, they always seem to feel better. I'm sure all this is personal feeling. Car hasn't blown up yet.

 

I agree...always done it that way. Even if people do not agree with the 1K oil change thats OK....I would rather change the oil a little to early than to late. No harm no foul

 

Here is a question. I am considering the 09 cabrio which would not be delivered until March at the ealiest. Mid April I am moving cross country from Miami to San Fran. Considering almost the entire 1000 mile break in period will be taking place on that 3000 mile drive am I just asking for trouble?

 

gpcovenant: You should be fine but you'll want to vary the cruising speed often. I'd even run in 5th for a while, then 6th, rinse, repeat.

I've just barely picked up my 2009 JCW and boy does it want to rev. It's REALLY hard staying under 4500; the boost builds and the car just wants to keep on going. I love this car so far and can't wait to change the oil at 1k, after which I'll beat on it like it's stolen.

Speaking of 1k... I've seen too many builds where the oil is changed at 1k (even with today's high tech filters) with visible particulate. I just paid a decent chunk for this ride, so I'm not even going to sweat a few quarts of Mobil-1 at 1k.

 

 

I have a Factory JCW, and even the dealer told me to beat the hell out of it during the run in. He was adamant on that, and reminded me three times on three seperate occasions. I broke in my R53 MCS like that, and that was ridiculously fast for the mods done to it, and engine was very strong for the three years that i owned it.

My JCW seems to be driving better than when i first picked it up (6 days ago), and now burbles and backfires far more than it originally did.

I didn't know about the 1k oil drain. I'll definately do that; makes sense.

 

Opps. posted this in the wrong section. Only getting the regular old Cooper either cabrio or not. Stupid monthly payments. I assume it doesnt matter what the make and model is though.

 

Thank you....this is how I always did it..the only thing I have to add is I never stayed at the same RPM for more than 10 minutes or so...even that can be argued. During breaking/ seating process the cool down is just as important. After 1K or less I always change the oil and continue to squeeze what I can out of her without thinking about RPM's....we get our JCW next week...cn't wait

 

my pleasure

 

Would someone kindly explain to me why it is recommended that you don't drive for extended time at the same speed. It has been mentioned at least four times in this thread and I have read it numerous other places including owner's manuals. I just can't figure out what the harm would be and I have never seen an explanation for this warning.

 

Well its not technically speed as it RPM's. During the initial breakin the engine's moving parts are expanding and wearing into a pattern or seating. Such as the cam bearings, crank shaft bearings, piston rings, valves, etc. and by varying your RPM's it changes the load which helps all the moving parts seat.

Another important part of the initial break in is when the engine heat cycles from cold to hot. When the engine is new is when it is most important to let the engine reach temprature before you start putting heavy stress on the engine as well as the transmission and clutch. When the engine goes from cold to hot is when the materials are expanding and contracting the most.

I hope this makes it a little more clear