flatload floor retrofit kit!
#1
flatload floor retrofit kit!
look what i just found:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...37&hg=51&fg=95
R60 Cooper SX Retrofit level cargo floor!
i seem to recall some folk did not order the loadflat option and regretted it
problem solved
scott
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...37&hg=51&fg=95
R60 Cooper SX Retrofit level cargo floor!
i seem to recall some folk did not order the loadflat option and regretted it
problem solved
scott
#2
Nice find!
The flat load is probably the only option that I wouldn't get if I ordered over again. I ended up taking it out and leaving it in my storage room. If it had the tri-fold design like was rumored (and is in the Clubman), then I probably would have left it in the car. The bi-fold design makes it too inconvenient to get things in/out. I guess I'm glad I have it in the event that I need to transport something large.
That said, I know some people will be very very happy.
The flat load is probably the only option that I wouldn't get if I ordered over again. I ended up taking it out and leaving it in my storage room. If it had the tri-fold design like was rumored (and is in the Clubman), then I probably would have left it in the car. The bi-fold design makes it too inconvenient to get things in/out. I guess I'm glad I have it in the event that I need to transport something large.
That said, I know some people will be very very happy.
#5
flat load floor retrofit kit
The fold flat floor was the only item I couldn't get for my 2011 Countryman (Charlie) that I bought off the lot at Baron MINI, and they didn't have any parts in May 2011 yet to replace one or install one. I finally came up with an idea to make my own and made it for much less that what you can now get the parts for.
Bought one sheet of baltic birch plywood (60" x 60" by 3/8 " at Woodcraft store for about $14, (it was on sale). They do one cut free, so had them cut it into 18" and 42" x 60 so it would fit in the back of the Countryman. Then I bought black fabric from National Fabric in Kansas City, KS that is used for seat backs and trunks 1 1/2 yards by 54" ($7.50 a yard or $11.25 plus tax. They also recommended DAP Weldwood High Strength Spray Adhesive for high temperature to adhere the fabric to the plywood, $11.99 for a can plus tax. So for under $40, I had the parts.
I wanted the floor to fit over the cargo area in the back so when I folded the standard bifold forward, I would have a flat floor. We have two Collies that travel with us across the state and across country and having them ride on the folded seats with a blanket between the seats to provide a firm place to ride just doesn't work very well.
I used the bifold floor as a template to draw on the plywood. My neighbor is a wood craftsman and cut the initial cut with a bandsaw. Then we made some adjustments on each side and the straight long edge with a belt sander, leaving the curved edge the same, making it about 1/8" smaller on both sides and about 1/4 less on the straight edge. After checking for fit, I was ready to do the final assembly.
I cut the bottom piece of fabric first making it about a inch bigger all the way around first and then, after masking the side edge with masking tape all the way around, folding it over to the top to keep overspray off, I sprayed the glue on the bottom side of the board, I learned you had to be generous but not globs. Spray outside as it is quite potent. I had laid out the fabric on a table with the finished side down and then laid the wood on the fabric and then flipped it over and rubbed it smooth. This is where I had learned to be generous as it didn't adhere around the edges and had to spray some more glue on the board as I lifted the fabric.
After it dried, I cut the fabric flush with the board and pulled off the tape. I then taped the edge of the fabric all the way around so then I sprayed the top and edges, it would overspray and get on the finished side of the fabric.
I cut the fabric for the top side about two inches longer all the way around so i could fold over the edges and pull them tight and smooth.
I sprayed the top and edges, then laid it on the fabric, finished side down and flipped it over, smoothing the top and then the edges as I stretched the fabric so there weren't any folds. After it dried, I cut the fabric at the edge of the bottom side. There were a couple of spots there it didn't adhere right, so I sprayed some on a piece of paper and used a craft stick (popsicle stick) to apply where needed. Use odorless mineral spirits to remove any glue off your hands or any that got onto the outside of the fabric. Use a lint free cloth when you do that.
After it dried, I sprayed it with Scotchguard for carpet so it resists spills, etc. It fits nicely and looks great.
I know this was a long explanation but I hope it helps someone else do it. I did make a brown paper template of the board. I am thinking of making the template and fabric available at a reasonable price. Send me a message if you are interested and we can discuss.
Bought one sheet of baltic birch plywood (60" x 60" by 3/8 " at Woodcraft store for about $14, (it was on sale). They do one cut free, so had them cut it into 18" and 42" x 60 so it would fit in the back of the Countryman. Then I bought black fabric from National Fabric in Kansas City, KS that is used for seat backs and trunks 1 1/2 yards by 54" ($7.50 a yard or $11.25 plus tax. They also recommended DAP Weldwood High Strength Spray Adhesive for high temperature to adhere the fabric to the plywood, $11.99 for a can plus tax. So for under $40, I had the parts.
I wanted the floor to fit over the cargo area in the back so when I folded the standard bifold forward, I would have a flat floor. We have two Collies that travel with us across the state and across country and having them ride on the folded seats with a blanket between the seats to provide a firm place to ride just doesn't work very well.
I used the bifold floor as a template to draw on the plywood. My neighbor is a wood craftsman and cut the initial cut with a bandsaw. Then we made some adjustments on each side and the straight long edge with a belt sander, leaving the curved edge the same, making it about 1/8" smaller on both sides and about 1/4 less on the straight edge. After checking for fit, I was ready to do the final assembly.
I cut the bottom piece of fabric first making it about a inch bigger all the way around first and then, after masking the side edge with masking tape all the way around, folding it over to the top to keep overspray off, I sprayed the glue on the bottom side of the board, I learned you had to be generous but not globs. Spray outside as it is quite potent. I had laid out the fabric on a table with the finished side down and then laid the wood on the fabric and then flipped it over and rubbed it smooth. This is where I had learned to be generous as it didn't adhere around the edges and had to spray some more glue on the board as I lifted the fabric.
After it dried, I cut the fabric flush with the board and pulled off the tape. I then taped the edge of the fabric all the way around so then I sprayed the top and edges, it would overspray and get on the finished side of the fabric.
I cut the fabric for the top side about two inches longer all the way around so i could fold over the edges and pull them tight and smooth.
I sprayed the top and edges, then laid it on the fabric, finished side down and flipped it over, smoothing the top and then the edges as I stretched the fabric so there weren't any folds. After it dried, I cut the fabric at the edge of the bottom side. There were a couple of spots there it didn't adhere right, so I sprayed some on a piece of paper and used a craft stick (popsicle stick) to apply where needed. Use odorless mineral spirits to remove any glue off your hands or any that got onto the outside of the fabric. Use a lint free cloth when you do that.
After it dried, I sprayed it with Scotchguard for carpet so it resists spills, etc. It fits nicely and looks great.
I know this was a long explanation but I hope it helps someone else do it. I did make a brown paper template of the board. I am thinking of making the template and fabric available at a reasonable price. Send me a message if you are interested and we can discuss.
The following users liked this post:
misanthropic789 (01-20-2019)
#6
Let's see it. I am intrigued!
The fold flat floor was the only item I couldn't get for my 2011 Countryman (Charlie) that I bought off the lot at Baron MINI, and they didn't have any parts in May 2011 yet to replace one or install one. I finally came up with an idea to make my own and made it for much less that what you can now get the parts for.
Bought one sheet of baltic birch plywood (60" x 60" by 3/8 " at Woodcraft store for about $14, (it was on sale). They do one cut free, so had them cut it into 18" and 42" x 60 so it would fit in the back of the Countryman. Then I bought black fabric from National Fabric in Kansas City, KS that is used for seat backs and trunks 1 1/2 yards by 54" ($7.50 a yard or $11.25 plus tax. They also recommended DAP Weldwood High Strength Spray Adhesive for high temperature to adhere the fabric to the plywood, $11.99 for a can plus tax. So for under $40, I had the parts.
I wanted the floor to fit over the cargo area in the back so when I folded the standard bifold forward, I would have a flat floor. We have two Collies that travel with us across the state and across country and having them ride on the folded seats with a blanket between the seats to provide a firm place to ride just doesn't work very well.
I used the bifold floor as a template to draw on the plywood. My neighbor is a wood craftsman and cut the initial cut with a bandsaw. Then we made some adjustments on each side and the straight long edge with a belt sander, leaving the curved edge the same, making it about 1/8" smaller on both sides and about 1/4 less on the straight edge. After checking for fit, I was ready to do the final assembly.
I cut the bottom piece of fabric first making it about a inch bigger all the way around first and then, after masking the side edge with masking tape all the way around, folding it over to the top to keep overspray off, I sprayed the glue on the bottom side of the board, I learned you had to be generous but not globs. Spray outside as it is quite potent. I had laid out the fabric on a table with the finished side down and then laid the wood on the fabric and then flipped it over and rubbed it smooth. This is where I had learned to be generous as it didn't adhere around the edges and had to spray some more glue on the board as I lifted the fabric.
After it dried, I cut the fabric flush with the board and pulled off the tape. I then taped the edge of the fabric all the way around so then I sprayed the top and edges, it would overspray and get on the finished side of the fabric.
I cut the fabric for the top side about two inches longer all the way around so i could fold over the edges and pull them tight and smooth.
I sprayed the top and edges, then laid it on the fabric, finished side down and flipped it over, smoothing the top and then the edges as I stretched the fabric so there weren't any folds. After it dried, I cut the fabric at the edge of the bottom side. There were a couple of spots there it didn't adhere right, so I sprayed some on a piece of paper and used a craft stick (popsicle stick) to apply where needed. Use odorless mineral spirits to remove any glue off your hands or any that got onto the outside of the fabric. Use a lint free cloth when you do that.
After it dried, I sprayed it with Scotchguard for carpet so it resists spills, etc. It fits nicely and looks great.
I know this was a long explanation but I hope it helps someone else do it. I did make a brown paper template of the board. I am thinking of making the template and fabric available at a reasonable price. Send me a message if you are interested and we can discuss.
Bought one sheet of baltic birch plywood (60" x 60" by 3/8 " at Woodcraft store for about $14, (it was on sale). They do one cut free, so had them cut it into 18" and 42" x 60 so it would fit in the back of the Countryman. Then I bought black fabric from National Fabric in Kansas City, KS that is used for seat backs and trunks 1 1/2 yards by 54" ($7.50 a yard or $11.25 plus tax. They also recommended DAP Weldwood High Strength Spray Adhesive for high temperature to adhere the fabric to the plywood, $11.99 for a can plus tax. So for under $40, I had the parts.
I wanted the floor to fit over the cargo area in the back so when I folded the standard bifold forward, I would have a flat floor. We have two Collies that travel with us across the state and across country and having them ride on the folded seats with a blanket between the seats to provide a firm place to ride just doesn't work very well.
I used the bifold floor as a template to draw on the plywood. My neighbor is a wood craftsman and cut the initial cut with a bandsaw. Then we made some adjustments on each side and the straight long edge with a belt sander, leaving the curved edge the same, making it about 1/8" smaller on both sides and about 1/4 less on the straight edge. After checking for fit, I was ready to do the final assembly.
I cut the bottom piece of fabric first making it about a inch bigger all the way around first and then, after masking the side edge with masking tape all the way around, folding it over to the top to keep overspray off, I sprayed the glue on the bottom side of the board, I learned you had to be generous but not globs. Spray outside as it is quite potent. I had laid out the fabric on a table with the finished side down and then laid the wood on the fabric and then flipped it over and rubbed it smooth. This is where I had learned to be generous as it didn't adhere around the edges and had to spray some more glue on the board as I lifted the fabric.
After it dried, I cut the fabric flush with the board and pulled off the tape. I then taped the edge of the fabric all the way around so then I sprayed the top and edges, it would overspray and get on the finished side of the fabric.
I cut the fabric for the top side about two inches longer all the way around so i could fold over the edges and pull them tight and smooth.
I sprayed the top and edges, then laid it on the fabric, finished side down and flipped it over, smoothing the top and then the edges as I stretched the fabric so there weren't any folds. After it dried, I cut the fabric at the edge of the bottom side. There were a couple of spots there it didn't adhere right, so I sprayed some on a piece of paper and used a craft stick (popsicle stick) to apply where needed. Use odorless mineral spirits to remove any glue off your hands or any that got onto the outside of the fabric. Use a lint free cloth when you do that.
After it dried, I sprayed it with Scotchguard for carpet so it resists spills, etc. It fits nicely and looks great.
I know this was a long explanation but I hope it helps someone else do it. I did make a brown paper template of the board. I am thinking of making the template and fabric available at a reasonable price. Send me a message if you are interested and we can discuss.
#7
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#8
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misanthropic789 (01-20-2019)
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misanthropic789 (01-20-2019)
#10
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misanthropic789 (01-20-2019)
#11
Looks fantastic. I am always worried about the carpet colors matching, but that is perfect looking. I bet there would be a market for aftermarket fold flat floors. Yes the oem and factory floors are great, but expensive.
Michael
Michael
Last edited by pyrrhusmj; 05-28-2012 at 08:42 PM.
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