2 ?'s - Best Torque Wrench / Best Tire pressure for track on GY F1's
#1
2 ?'s - Best Torque Wrench / Best Tire pressure for track on GY F1's
Hi Guys,
Looking for 2 recommendations:
1) which torque wrench to buy. Im looking to make a one time investment on a good tool. Any recommendations?
2) Running 17' GoodYear Eagle F1's at teh track. The "stock" pressure seems a little low. I used to run these same tires in 18' at 42psi, but that may be too high for the MINI, what would you recommend?
Thanks
Matt
Looking for 2 recommendations:
1) which torque wrench to buy. Im looking to make a one time investment on a good tool. Any recommendations?
2) Running 17' GoodYear Eagle F1's at teh track. The "stock" pressure seems a little low. I used to run these same tires in 18' at 42psi, but that may be too high for the MINI, what would you recommend?
Thanks
Matt
#2
I ran a brand new set of 17x215 45 F1 GS-D3's about a month ago at Spring Mountain. Weather was about 70 degrees and sunny.
I started the morning session at 40 front and 35 rear. By the end of the session they had gone up to 50 front and 43. I lowered the pressure back to 40 - 35 while they were still hot off the track. I fiddled around with the pressure a bit to dial out some understeer and settled on 40 - 33.
I found it important to check the pressure hot off the track as soon as I got back into the pits and make my adjustments as soon as I got out of the car.
Just remember, take the first lap of a session easy as the tires heat up and get back up to operating pressure. I made that mistake once last year, came out of turn 2 pretty hot on the first lap of a session, went two off and then spun.
BTW, the second day I had to rotate the tires front to back to get them to wear evenly.
I started the morning session at 40 front and 35 rear. By the end of the session they had gone up to 50 front and 43. I lowered the pressure back to 40 - 35 while they were still hot off the track. I fiddled around with the pressure a bit to dial out some understeer and settled on 40 - 33.
I found it important to check the pressure hot off the track as soon as I got back into the pits and make my adjustments as soon as I got out of the car.
Just remember, take the first lap of a session easy as the tires heat up and get back up to operating pressure. I made that mistake once last year, came out of turn 2 pretty hot on the first lap of a session, went two off and then spun.
BTW, the second day I had to rotate the tires front to back to get them to wear evenly.
#5
I second the Snap On recommendation I have one and use it most of the time for torquing lug nuts rather than anything really critical. That said it is really overkill for torquing wheels. The cheapskate in me says that the 1/2" Harbor Tools wrench (which I also have) or one of the Craftsman would probably do just fine. I seem to recall a heated debate somewhere on NAM regarding cheaping out on torque wrenches, but if you want to buy one and keep it forever then Snap On has got to be in the running.
#7
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#8
Note if you drop either a click-type torque wrench or a dial-type pressure gauge even once the calibration is not to be trusted until it's recalibrated. The mailman can drop them too, and calibration is not covered by any lifetime warranty. I keep a good wrench for engine parts and second "beater" one just for lug nuts.
Beam type torque wrenches are much more resistant to going off after being dropped, but then are more trouble to use. Danaher corporation makes Sears Craftsman, Matco, K-D, Kobalt and Armstrong. Stanley makes Husky, Mac and Proto. And JH Williams makes Snap-On.
If you use one of the cordless impact guns like the V28 Milwaukee or Dewalt 36v ones on the track, even a torque stick will do an OK job and you never have to worry about dropping it.
Beam type torque wrenches are much more resistant to going off after being dropped, but then are more trouble to use. Danaher corporation makes Sears Craftsman, Matco, K-D, Kobalt and Armstrong. Stanley makes Husky, Mac and Proto. And JH Williams makes Snap-On.
If you use one of the cordless impact guns like the V28 Milwaukee or Dewalt 36v ones on the track, even a torque stick will do an OK job and you never have to worry about dropping it.
#10
Originally Posted by katmeho
whats the difference between 3/8th and 1/2 inch wrenches? Do I need 1 specific to the MINI? Which one? Thanks
As someone else said the deflection beam wrenchs are very inexpensive and very sturdy. The toughest thing about them is reading the pointer. But I have a simple solution. I put a piece of colored "Post-It" note on the scale it the desired pressure. Even in poor light or off angle it is easy to get an accurate reading.
Here is a good article about torque wrenches.
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm
Enjoy
#11
I've had a Craftsman dial torque wrench for some 8 years, and its been decent, but is now showing signs of not wanting to change the rate via the screw handle (never been mis-treated, but probably a small internal gear wear thing issue) without multiple twists back and forth. I haven't thought of what may be a reasonable and reliable "life-span" for one of this model/brand.
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