What did you do to your mini today?
#7951
#7952
#7954
Done...used Rhino ramps.
16mm socket for either end of the dog bone, and 13 mm for the brackets. But could not get any leverage to loosen those 4 bolts, so had to tilt the engine/tranny forward and shoved a small 6" length of 2x4 between the tranny and subframe to keeo it there. Unbolted the PS fan, put that aside and went at it.
Wasn't easy as it takes some finess to snake it out that way.
Last edited by -=gRaY rAvEn=-; 08-19-2012 at 03:15 PM.
#7955
Where does one obtain that can of goop? I need to give my upper engine mount a little vibrolicious urethane love!
Hmmm.... Vibrolicious Urethane Love sounds like a good band name....
C ya,
Dutch
Hmmm.... Vibrolicious Urethane Love sounds like a good band name....
C ya,
Dutch
Last edited by joe_bfstplk; 08-19-2012 at 09:27 AM. Reason: remove exraneous pixs
#7956
K, so it was 23:56 last night, but that's only 4 minutes early....
Purchased Seadog 5-louver stainless steel bilge vents from Hamilton Marine in Maine's online store to do a bonnet ventilation mod, in hopes of achieving similar heat-soak reduction and lower intake air temperature to what Helix Wildebeest reported in this post. I've been getting *bad* heat soak in town with the a/c on when it's 110+ degrees out (a frequent occurrence here in Mordor).
Hopefully I can find some time soon to drop in at Capitol Metals and find a nice 4" wide piece of aluminium bar stock, so I can fab up a homebrew version of M7's "Air Plate Diverter" to help radiator and a/c efficiency. Carbon fiber's nice and all, but it's not $179 nice. Besides, with an aluminium one, I can try my hand at the classic street-rod style "engine turned" thing.... Check it out, there's a pretty good illustrated walk through the process here. I'm going to try to do it with my drill press and being *very* careful and precise....
C ya,
Dutch
Purchased Seadog 5-louver stainless steel bilge vents from Hamilton Marine in Maine's online store to do a bonnet ventilation mod, in hopes of achieving similar heat-soak reduction and lower intake air temperature to what Helix Wildebeest reported in this post. I've been getting *bad* heat soak in town with the a/c on when it's 110+ degrees out (a frequent occurrence here in Mordor).
Hopefully I can find some time soon to drop in at Capitol Metals and find a nice 4" wide piece of aluminium bar stock, so I can fab up a homebrew version of M7's "Air Plate Diverter" to help radiator and a/c efficiency. Carbon fiber's nice and all, but it's not $179 nice. Besides, with an aluminium one, I can try my hand at the classic street-rod style "engine turned" thing.... Check it out, there's a pretty good illustrated walk through the process here. I'm going to try to do it with my drill press and being *very* careful and precise....
C ya,
Dutch
#7957
few misc. things:
messed with suspension - stiffened up rear sway bar and softened up the dampeners.
removed the front driving lights (they haven't worked since I bought it anyways and were rusted).
changed out the serpentine belt. I had the larger one on it for the past 2 years (547) but it was stretched. the new one (535) makes a big difference.
and...
got a small garage (just moved in). it is amazing compared to the shared parking lot that I used to have.
messed with suspension - stiffened up rear sway bar and softened up the dampeners.
removed the front driving lights (they haven't worked since I bought it anyways and were rusted).
changed out the serpentine belt. I had the larger one on it for the past 2 years (547) but it was stretched. the new one (535) makes a big difference.
and...
got a small garage (just moved in). it is amazing compared to the shared parking lot that I used to have.
Last edited by mrjasey; 08-19-2012 at 12:03 PM.
#7958
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Hopefully I can find some time soon to drop in at Capitol Metals and find a nice 4" wide piece of aluminium bar stock, so I can fab up a homebrew version of M7's "Air Plate Diverter" to help radiator and a/c efficiency. Carbon fiber's nice and all, but it's not $179 nice. Besides, with an aluminium one, I can try my hand at the classic street-rod style "engine turned" thing.... Check it out, there's a pretty good illustrated walk through the process here. I'm going to try to do it with my drill press and being *very* careful and precise....
#7959
Done...used Rhino ramps.
16mm socket for either end of the dog bone, and 13 mm for the brackets. But could not get any leverage to loosen those 4 bolts, so had to tilt the engine/tranny forward and shoved a small 6" length of 2x4 between the tranny and subframe to keeo it there. Unbolted the PS fan, put that aside and went at it.
Wasn't easy as it takes some finess to snake it out that way.
#7960
ordered my Mont Blanc roof rack and searched all the local auto parts stores asking if any had a pulley puller so that I can install my 15% pulley when my Vibra Technics upper mount arrives...so I guess I didn't do anything TO it (other than drive it) but I did do things for it. Does that count?
#7961
#7962
#7963
Added More Vinyl to roof
Enhanced the already existing Motoring Club Registration number on roof with Dark Silver Paint Match vinyl and red accent stripe.
MMCROOFDECALSANDSTRIPES004.jpg?t=1345479728
MMCROOFDECALSANDSTRIPES004.jpg?t=1345479728
#7965
#7966
#7968
Cabin air filter replacement... UGH!
Technically, it was yesterday, but close enough... I replaced that God-awful nasty (Yeeeeeech!) interior cabin air filter that someone else posted about earlier in this thread. Mine was so plugged, I thought it came out of a Sears ShopVac that has been used in flood recovery duty. . If you have NOT changed yours, then you need to. Its amazing how much better the interior vent air moves on the low fan setting. It was the best 10 minutes I have spent in awhile.
#7970
215/45/17 is a great size. Know that you can also fit a VW passat 4-lug spare in the boot under the cargo cover... lean it against the back seat, hold it in (up) with a cargo strap between the seat mounts.
For me, learned my Mini will be in the shop another week as Mini takes care of some minor rust issues (known issue with some R53's) under warranty... what great warranty support on a 6 year-old car!
For me, learned my Mini will be in the shop another week as Mini takes care of some minor rust issues (known issue with some R53's) under warranty... what great warranty support on a 6 year-old car!
#7971
#7973
submitaweasel, there were a few posts on this many, many pages ago... for me, jasmsf helped me change my supercharger oil at 70k meaning he did it as I watched!). It's a big job, but not all that difficult in your own garage if you've got a few hours. In my case, the oil was barely discolored and all was well with s-charger and water pump.
Generally, if the SC is going to go bad, it does so by 60-70k, if not, well, I've got a buddy with a 2004 R53 at 130k with zero issues. He re-oiled anyway, as nothing was loose, and all's well.
I'll re-do mine at 140k, as taking the front off the car is a good idea every few years to check for vacuum leaks, maintain "stuff", etc...
Generally, if the SC is going to go bad, it does so by 60-70k, if not, well, I've got a buddy with a 2004 R53 at 130k with zero issues. He re-oiled anyway, as nothing was loose, and all's well.
I'll re-do mine at 140k, as taking the front off the car is a good idea every few years to check for vacuum leaks, maintain "stuff", etc...
#7974
submitaweasel, there were a few posts on this many, many pages ago... for me, jasmsf helped me change my supercharger oil at 70k meaning he did it as I watched!). It's a big job, but not all that difficult in your own garage if you've got a few hours. In my case, the oil was barely discolored and all was well with s-charger and water pump.
Generally, if the SC is going to go bad, it does so by 60-70k, if not, well, I've got a buddy with a 2004 R53 at 130k with zero issues. He re-oiled anyway, as nothing was loose, and all's well.
I'll re-do mine at 140k, as taking the front off the car is a good idea every few years to check for vacuum leaks, maintain "stuff", etc...
Generally, if the SC is going to go bad, it does so by 60-70k, if not, well, I've got a buddy with a 2004 R53 at 130k with zero issues. He re-oiled anyway, as nothing was loose, and all's well.
I'll re-do mine at 140k, as taking the front off the car is a good idea every few years to check for vacuum leaks, maintain "stuff", etc...